Another premature brake pad wear post

Dianna

Member
I have a 2014 Trail premium, my roommate has a 2014 Rav4. Both vehicles are in need of brake pads at 27,000 miles. 4Runner needs front and rear, Rav4 needs front pads and rotors.

I have a 2006 Tacoma that had front pads make it to 75,000 miles, I know many will say that this is a driving issue, but I am very easy on my brakes. The inside pad on the front of the 4Runner is much thinner than the rear, it looks like a caliper piston could be hung up. I live where there is heavy salt use, but that hasn't caused any issues on my Taco with my calipers, 10 years+ and they are still in great shape. Although I can't say with certainty, I'm pretty sure that my '77 FJ40 still has the original calipers and rotors.

The Rav4 rotors are so corroded that they must be replaced. I have driven Toyota's my entire life, and I have never had the rust issues like I have now. I used to always swear by keeping my vehicles mechanical systems all OEM, but I think I will try some aftermarket rotors and pads this time.

I don't mind spending money on things that I know are reliable and will last a long time. I take care of my vehicles, but Toyota just isn't what it used to be! I hope they will soon go back to one of the reasons why we love this brand so much, the reliability! It doesn't really matter if an engine and transmission can make it to 300k if everything else has gone to shit.
 
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I have a 2014 Trail premium, my roommate has a 2014 Rav4. Both vehicles are in need of brake pads at 27,000 miles. 4Runner needs front and rear, Rav4 needs front pads and rotors.

I have a 2006 Tacoma that had front pads make it to 75,000 miles, I know many will say that this is a driving issue, but I am very easy on my brakes. The inside pad on the front of the 4Runner is much thinner than the rear, it looks like a caliper piston could be hung up. I live where there is heavy salt use, but that hasn't caused any issues on my Taco with my calipers, 10 years+ and they are still in great shape. Although I can't say with certainty, I'm pretty sure that my '77 FJ40 still has the original calipers and rotors.

The Rav4 rotors are so corroded that they must be replaced. I have driven Toyota's my entire life, and I have never had the rust issues like I have now. I used to always swear by keeping my vehicles mechanical systems all OEM, but I think I will try some aftermarket rotors and pads this time.

I don't mind spending money on things that I know are reliable and will last a long time. I take care of my vehicles, but Toyota just isn't what it used to be! I hope they will soon go back to one of the reasons why we love this brand so much, the reliability! It doesn't really matter if an engine and transmission can make it to 300k if everything else has gone to shit.
Funny you posted this becsuse I just changed out my rotors and pads. SUPER easy to do if you have access to a lift and I'm sure if you putz around the forum you'll find a 'how to' on it.

My shared experience is my runner hit just shy of 48000 miles and I had to replace both the rotors and pads. However, I made a move from MA to TX while towing my wife's Hyundai (was right at the towing limit) and the trailer didn't have brakes on it. Suffice to say, driving through Virginia and the Carolinas probably didn't do much to help with the wear and tear of the vehicle. I also have heavier E rated KO2s on mine (starting at the 33K mark), but I would have thought the brakes would last at least until 50K.

I've never had any vehicle for this long before so I can't say much to the history of changing those components out, but just wanted to share what led to my needed change out. I highly recommend you check out the DIY method. After I got charged and arm and a leg, I thought I'd make it worth the money to shadow the technician to learn how to do it myself. Afterwards I felt pretty sheepish seeing how easy it was. You'll save HUNDREDS and after seeing the 'labor charge' for something as simple as removing and replacing the brake pads, I felt robbed! Well, lesson learned!

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"driving through Virginia and the Carolinas probably didn't do much to help with the wear and tear of the vehicle"

I've lived in Virginia since '68 and my parents' families since the mid-1700s. I tow stuff too and haven't had any brake problems since the rotors rusted out on my 1978 Datsun B210 (along with parts of the body). What happened on your trip?
 
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"driving through Virginia and the Carolinas probably didn't do much to help with the wear and tear of the vehicle"

I've lived in Virginia since '68 and my parents' families since the mid-1700s. I tow stuff too and haven't had any brake problems since the rotors rusted out on my 1978 Datsun B210 (along with parts of the body). What happened on your trip?
I suspect it was the hilly portions and not having any trailer brakes. It was one of those uhaul half trailers and on a PCS to my next base, my pack job in both vehicles was probably on the verge of pushing specs. I guess I wasn't looking to wait til the brakes rusted out and was trying to maintain a good preventative maintenance on the vehicle, seeing as how I'm in pursuit of the admirable 440k+ mileage club. Just looking to help share my experiences and I'm appreciative of your generational insight and own personal accounts. Such a long and rich history of the area would definitely trump my driving habits on such a short passing through on account of my PCS!

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Doesnt sound premature sounds normal for associated driving.... if you ride you brakes they wear faster. My 2011 i traded in had 70k on the originals and plenty of life left. My 2015 has the originals and i have over 40k miles.... no need to change anytime soon
 
Doesnt sound premature sounds normal for associated driving.... if you ride you brakes they wear faster. My 2011 i traded in had 70k on the originals and plenty of life left. My 2015 has the originals and i have over 40k miles.... no need to change anytime soon

Not sure what to take from your contradictory post! LOL
 
I suspect it was the hilly portions and not having any trailer brakes. It was one of those uhaul half trailers and on a PCS to my next base, my pack job in both vehicles was probably on the verge of pushing specs. I guess I wasn't looking to wait til the brakes rusted out and was trying to maintain a good preventative maintenance on the vehicle, seeing as how I'm in pursuit of the admirable 440k+ mileage club. Just looking to help share my experiences and I'm appreciative of your generational insight and own personal accounts. Such a long and rich history of the area would definitely trump my driving habits on such a short passing through on account of my PCS!

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Thanks for your post, I do my own brakes, I would never let a dealer rape me on them! I don't mind using them for an oil change. By the time I pay for a filter and synthetic, I'm almost at what the dealer charges with my discount. Everything else I do myself, with the help of this forum!
 
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One of the most important things that make pads stick and wear fast etc , the stainless pad clips MUST be removed and cleaned with wire brush and more importantly the rust cleaned out from UNDER them where they sit in the caliper holder if not the rust forces the clips up and pinch the brake pads , I remove mine and sand blast the area and then put a light coat of syn. brake lube on the area to prevent rust then put clips back in .

Files and wire brush on drill will work also just be sure not to hit guide pin rubber boots and rip them or remove them before starting

Also refrain from putting any type of lube on pad ends or stainless clips it will attract dust and dirt and gall the area up and prevent pads from releasing , This must be done as it is the most common reason why pads stick and wear uneven and prematurely , I live in the rust belt also and this must be done , I do it once a year when I put my winter rims/tires on

. On the fronts I take pins and pads out and wire wheel pins and lube them with silicone paste and use a sharp flat blade screwdriver (pretty much the only thing that will fit ) to scrape rust build up off where the bottom of pads sit ( be careful not to hit piston cylinder rubbers )

I also give my pad faces that sit and touch any part of the stainless clips if rusty , a quick light rub with a file to clean them before putting them back in.

Its become routine for me living in the most salt infested climate there is and it keeps by brakes working perfect as I let it slide when I first bought 4 runner and burnt off a rear set of pads in 30K miles , they were froze solid in their holders and not releasing
 
Not sure what to take from your contradictory post! LOL

I have no clue how to take your OP. You talk about 4Runners, RAV4's and Tacoma's. You talk about ANOTHER premature brake pad wear thread but in reality, there are very few who don't have them last for 70K or so.

Lastly, I didn't really see a question in there. Did you just post your experiences with all kinds of vehicles or did your post have a point...
 
This vid shows the correct way to do it , no shop will take the time to do this they will just pound new pads in and out the door it goes and they start binding and not releasing immediately and pads be gone fast while the whole time causing drag and building heat etc etc ....

not so much an issue in non rust areas but where i'm at I could do it every 6 months almost

he has a bunch of great vids and is a great mechanic , worth watching them all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_6o6n1jjIw&t=446s
 
"It was one of those uhaul half trailers"

That might do it. We have lots of potholes that'll take chunks out of your tires too if you aren't good at dodging them. :)
 
I have no clue how to take your OP. You talk about 4Runners, RAV4's and Tacoma's. You talk about ANOTHER premature brake pad wear thread but in reality, there are very few who don't have them last for 70K or so.

Lastly, I didn't really see a question in there. Did you just post your experiences with all kinds of vehicles or did your post have a point...

Well, then "thank you" for taking your time and effort to respond to my post that you feel is pointless.
 
One of the most important things that make pads stick and wear fast etc , the stainless pad clips MUST be removed and cleaned with wire brush and more importantly the rust cleaned out from UNDER them where they sit in the caliper holder if not the rust forces the clips up and pinch the brake pads , I remove mine and sand blast the area and then put a light coat of syn. brake lube on the area to prevent rust then put clips back in .

Files and wire brush on drill will work also just be sure not to hit guide pin rubber boots and rip them or remove them before starting

Also refrain from putting any type of lube on pad ends or stainless clips it will attract dust and dirt and gall the area up and prevent pads from releasing , This must be done as it is the most common reason why pads stick and wear uneven and prematurely , I live in the rust belt also and this must be done , I do it once a year when I put my winter rims/tires on

. On the fronts I take pins and pads out and wire wheel pins and lube them with silicone paste and use a sharp flat blade screwdriver (pretty much the only thing that will fit ) to scrape rust build up off where the bottom of pads sit ( be careful not to hit piston cylinder rubbers )

I also give my pad faces that sit and touch any part of the stainless clips if rusty , a quick light rub with a file to clean them before putting them back in.

Its become routine for me living in the most salt infested climate there is and it keeps by brakes working perfect as I let it slide when I first bought 4 runner and burnt off a rear set of pads in 30K miles , they were froze solid in their holders and not releasing

Awesome post, greatly appreciated! I just ordered Power Stop pads and rotors. I'll update my experience with them, the installation, and then follow up with an update on performance.
 
I have no clue how to take your OP. You talk about 4Runners, RAV4's and Tacoma's. You talk about ANOTHER premature brake pad wear thread but in reality, there are very few who don't have them last for 70K or so.

Lastly, I didn't really see a question in there. Did you just post your experiences with all kinds of vehicles or did your post have a point...

They were posting about how their anecdotal experiences, with a sample size of 4, can be generalized into statistically significant results about the brand that Toyota has now become.
 
This vid shows the correct way to do it , no shop will take the time to do this they will just pound new pads in and out the door it goes and they start binding and not releasing immediately and pads be gone fast while the whole time causing drag and building heat etc etc ....

not so much an issue in non rust areas but where i'm at I could do it every 6 months almost

he has a bunch of great vids and is a great mechanic , worth watching them all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_6o6n1jjIw&t=446s

Thanks again Pattycakes. Is it safe to assume your 40 stays in the garage all winter? I never thought about doing routine maintenance on the calipers, I guess I'll add that to my winter list of preventative maintenance, I am a big fan of Fluid Film.
 
Caliper issue

I definitely have a caliper issue.
 

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Lol, you have zero clue about my driving habits. Stupid to comment that I must drive my 4Runner differently than my other vehicles.

LOL you are right I'm stupid to think that your driving habits suck when everybody else is getting over 50,000 miles on their original price at my bad yo
 

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