Another premature brake pad wear post

So wear and tear items like brake life equate to how 'reliable' a vehicle is now?

Learn something new everyday around here LOL.
 
LOL you are right I'm stupid to think that your driving habits suck when everybody else is getting over 50,000 miles on their original price at my bad yo

Easy does it Bub...

I have to comment here. I too know my driving habits. I'm cautious, I'm not aggressive, I DO NOT ride my brakes, I do not brake in the last 50 feet before a stop sign/light. There should be no reason for early brake/rotor wear/failure, yet I've had two brake jobs in 70,000 miles, due to pulsing (aka "warped" rotors).

First time, the cost went against my EW, the second time was on the dealer due to a frank-but-friendly discussion with the SM.

I suspect rust belt, combined with no attention to maintenance, but it is not "driving habits suck".

Carry on.
 
while climate conditions play a role for sure there are many 5th gen owners in Ohio getting more than 20k out of their pads... driving habits and preventative maintenance play a large role..... BUB:lmao:
 
Another premature brake pad wear post

If you knew there was already a post about "premature brake pad wear", why would you create a new one and not just post there?
:hiding:
 
The rears are even more rusted than the fronts pictured. I can't believe that some of you feel that calipers having issues at 25k is a maintenance issue! Like I said in my initial post, I still have the original calipers on my '06 Taco, that I drive more in the winter than my 4R. I just replaced the pads and rotors at 95K on the Taco, and the rotors were not covered in rust, I just decided to replace them instead of having them cut. My '01 4Runner still has the original calipers and rotors, other vehicles I have had and sold, '95 truck, had over 100k on the original calipers and rotors, same with my '89 truck. I have also had an MR2, a Supra, 2 Corolla SR5's, none of them ever needed calipers replaced.

You guys can defend Toyota all you want, but I have been driving them for 30 years, all in the rust belt. And if this is a "maintenance issue," then why isn't it something my dealer addressed when I took my 4R in at 5k, 10k, 15k, 20k, 25k? This uneven wear is not something that happened in the last 2k miles.

I received my Power Stop kit, I have read good things about them, I'm looking forward to getting it installed. I think I will paint the end of the rotor with some high heat paint, avoiding the pad contact area.

Troll somewhere else simpleman, over 1,000 posts in a year? :lmao: :lasercannon:
 
The rears are even more rusted than the fronts pictured. I can't believe that some of you feel that calipers having issues at 25k is a maintenance issue! Like I said in my initial post, I still have the original calipers on my '06 Taco, that I drive more in the winter than my 4R. I just replaced the pads and rotors at 95K on the Taco, and the rotors were not covered in rust, I just decided to replace them instead of having them cut. My '01 4Runner still has the original calipers and rotors, other vehicles I have had and sold, '95 truck, had over 100k on the original calipers and rotors, same with my '89 truck. I have also had an MR2, a Supra, 2 Corolla SR5's, none of them ever needed calipers replaced.

You guys can defend Toyota all you want, but I have been driving them for 30 years, all in the rust belt. And if this is a "maintenance issue," then why isn't it something my dealer addressed when I took my 4R in at 5k, 10k, 15k, 20k, 25k? This uneven wear is not something that happened in the last 2k miles.

I received my Power Stop kit, I have read good things about them, I'm looking forward to getting it installed. I think I will paint the end of the rotor with some high heat paint, avoiding the pad contact area.

Troll somewhere else simpleman, over 1,000 posts in a year? :lmao: :lasercannon:
When you comment or post in a public forum (especially if you are the one that started the thread) you must be prepared for the good and bad, the wrong and right and the stupid and smart responses because that is what you will get every time. If you have a problem with that then you don't need to post.
-mod-

With that said, whoever inspected your brakes at 5K, 10K, 15K etc should have caught this. The reason people are commenting like they are is that this is highly unusual even for people that live in the rust belt. I live there too and my rotors looked just fine after 70K.
Is this a maintenance problem or a Toyota problem? I say it just a problem. I blame whoever was supposed to inspect the brakes every 5K for not catching it 15K ago. That didn't happen overnight. Why did they even rust like this anyway? Don't know because most who live in the salt and snow world have brakes that look much better than that.

Last, if you guys can't give helpful comments, just move on. This is your warning.
 
Thank god I don't live in the Rust Belt. That looks like shit.

I thought the exact same thing. That level of corrosion is amazing for being 2 years old.

OP: are you sure you didn't accidentally park in the ocean for a year?
 
I thought the exact same thing. That level of corrosion is amazing for being 2 years old.

OP: are you sure you didn't accidentally park in the ocean for a year?

Lol, I should post up a pic of the rears, they look even worse. And the Rav4 is even worse than my 4R. Rav wasn't taken care of nearly as well, but still. The rest of my 4R looks new. I don't park in a heated garage when there is salt on it, it gets pressure washed at least twice a week. I cover everything underneath, before winter, with Fluid Film, I even keep my engine bay detailed. Since my truck was at the dealer for maintenance, I never even thought about the brakes. After giving this a little more thought after reading Greg's post (thank you! :hatsoff: ), I think I may start going to another dealer, I have 2 that are the same distance from me. This isn't the first issue I have had with them.
 
This vid shows the correct way to do it , no shop will take the time to do this they will just pound new pads in and out the door it goes and they start binding and not releasing immediately and pads be gone fast while the whole time causing drag and building heat etc etc ....

not so much an issue in non rust areas but where i'm at I could do it every 6 months almost

he has a bunch of great vids and is a great mechanic , worth watching them all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_6o6n1jjIw&t=446s

The most important thing is to clean the rust out of the calipers like Dr. O said. and put brake grease where the pad to caliper contacts to prevent rust build up. Its actually part of the subaru factory manual I wonder if its part of the toyota manual as well. My sisters forester needed brake pads at 30k as well. I think they are just making them super thin

side note. I where my SMA tshirt a lot :D . I stopped by his shop, super nice guy!
 
I definitely have a caliper issue.

make sure you clean the caliper per South main autos instruction. new hard ware etc. Put brake grease everywhere there is build up and you will get as much life as the pads as you can.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QS07L4Y/ I got this to clean caliper rust if you dont have access to a sand blaster . those slide pins really need to be lubed up so they don't sieze the pad. Your rotor is probably toast .
 
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I think I've got about 25,000 miles on my rear brakes so far. Hard to tell because the dealer replaced my rear ones for free after about 18 months of ownership. My fronts were done last year. I'm assuming the corrosive nature of winter is a big culprit. My wife drives 6,000mi/yr and her rear calliper seized after 20-24,000 miles.

Either way, the brakes do not last long on the 4Runner. My 4dr Jeep Wrangler brakes weren't touched in the 3 year/40,000 miles that I had it. I did take advantage of the brake service however but I don't drive any different, and probably more conservative now than when I had the Jeep.
 
make sure you clean the caliper per South main autos instruction. new hard ware etc. Put brake grease everywhere there is build up and you will get as much life as the pads as you can.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QS07L4Y/ I got this to clean caliper rust if you dont have access to a sand blaster . those slide pins really need to be lubed up so they don't sieze the pad. Your rotor is probably toast .

I have a sandblaster, but I want to try other methods first. I don't trust myself to not accidentally hit a boot, and I definitely don't want sand to get inside them. I wasn't even aware they made a tool like that for calipers. Thank you :) I think winter is finally over, hopefully I won't need to deal with salt for the next 6 months, lol.
 
I think I've got about 25,000 miles on my rear brakes so far. Hard to tell because the dealer replaced my rear ones for free after about 18 months of ownership. My fronts were done last year. I'm assuming the corrosive nature of winter is a big culprit. My wife drives 6,000mi/yr and her rear calliper seized after 20-24,000 miles.

Either way, the brakes do not last long on the 4Runner. My 4dr Jeep Wrangler brakes weren't touched in the 3 year/40,000 miles that I had it. I did take advantage of the brake service however but I don't drive any different, and probably more conservative now than when I had the Jeep.

the piston siezed or the pads rusted into place? Big difference.
 
I have a 2014 Trail premium, my roommate has a 2014 Rav4. Both vehicles are in need of brake pads at 27,000 miles. 4Runner needs front and rear, Rav4 needs front pads and rotors.

I have a 2006 Tacoma that had front pads make it to 75,000 miles, I know many will say that this is a driving issue, but I am very easy on my brakes. The inside pad on the front of the 4Runner is much thinner than the rear, it looks like a caliper piston could be hung up. I live where there is heavy salt use, but that hasn't caused any issues on my Taco with my calipers, 10 years+ and they are still in great shape. Although I can't say with certainty, I'm pretty sure that my '77 FJ40 still has the original calipers and rotors.

The Rav4 rotors are so corroded that they must be replaced. I have driven Toyota's my entire life, and I have never had the rust issues like I have now. I used to always swear by keeping my vehicles mechanical systems all OEM, but I think I will try some aftermarket rotors and pads this time.

I don't mind spending money on things that I know are reliable and will last a long time. I take care of my vehicles, but Toyota just isn't what it used to be! I hope they will soon go back to one of the reasons why we love this brand so much, the reliability! It doesn't really matter if an engine and transmission can make it to 300k if everything else has gone to shit.

You actually made it past the Toyota recommendation for replacement if you look at the "Toyota standard" maintenance report on new vehicles.
I've been watching my 2015 closely as i have a lot weight usually. I'm at 31000 km (roughly 20000 miles) and still have decent meat just did my 4th oil change and rotated the tires with a brake check
according to Toyota for the Trail i would need my first brake job if i believed the Dealer suckering
I ride my truck pretty hard. But i stick it in Low coming down off the mountains. And use manual downshifting as much as i can on hills and coast timing on lights.
Brakes ain't cheap and aftermarket rotors no matter what vehicle type seems to always have some issues.. wobble.. blue'in...etc
Stick to OEM and whatever you do..DON'T GO CERAMIC. Stick with a blend or organic. You may have to deal with dusting but that's better that smoking hot brakes.
 
You actually made it past the Toyota recommendation for replacement if you look at the "Toyota standard" maintenance report on new vehicles.
I've been watching my 2015 closely as i have a lot weight usually. I'm at 31000 km (roughly 20000 miles) and still have decent meat just did my 4th oil change and rotated the tires with a brake check
according to Toyota for the Trail i would need my first brake job if i believed the Dealer suckering
I ride my truck pretty hard. But i stick it in Low coming down off the mountains. And use manual downshifting as much as i can on hills and coast timing on lights.
Brakes ain't cheap and aftermarket rotors no matter what vehicle type seems to always have some issues.. wobble.. blue'in...etc
Stick to OEM and whatever you do..DON'T GO CERAMIC. Stick with a blend or organic. You may have to deal with dusting but that's better that smoking hot brakes.

Wow, nice rig!
 

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