Another Rear Window Thread

[JoeMegeddon]

OK I know there are lots of threads about this and I am still reading through them but not finding the answers to my specific questions. Hopefully you all could help.

When I bought my runner the PO was raising and lowering the back window with a drill battery (missing center console and wiring harness cut - see photo). He unplugged the connector in the tailgate and attached a long wire that stretched all the way to the cab and when you wanted to raise/lower the window you touched the appropriate connectors to the battery terminals and then it worked though it is terribly inconvenient.

I came across a guy with an '88 v6 SR5 runner and his runner's back window goes up and down using his key in the tailgate. I was hoping that this would work in mine so I reconnected everything and no go.

Is the key in the tailgate trick supposed to work on all first gen 4runners? Is the busted wiring harness the reason it's not working?

FYI - The back door light on the gauge cluster is functioning properly so there seems to be some functionality back there. PLEASE HELP!

 

[helo-mech]

Yeah the key should work. Check to make sure the 2nd bolt from the rear, driver's side, is installed on your top. It activates the sensor to ensure the glass is not raised with the top off. Also some say to check the wiper arm to make sure it is seated fully. Mine has never been affected by this but apparently it does affect some.

Also not sure how and where he ran the wires but if the PO jacked with the relay in the driver "B" Post then the key and console switch wouldn't work. Both switches go through the relay before providing power to the window motor.

 

[Satchmo]

He probably jacked the wiring because his switch broke.

My rear doesn't go up with a key, only down. New switch is more money than it's worth.

 

[RAD4Runner]

OK I know there are lots of threads about this and I am still reading through them but not finding the answers to my specific questions. Hopefully you all could help.

When I bought my runner the PO was raising and lowering the back window with a drill battery (missing center console and wiring harness cut - see photo). He unplugged the connector in the tailgate and attached a long wire that stretched all the way to the cab and when you wanted to raise/lower the window you touched the appropriate connectors to the battery terminals and then it worked though it is terribly inconvenient.

I came across a guy with an '88 v6 SR5 runner and his runner's back window goes up and down using his key in the tailgate. I was hoping that this would work in mine so I reconnected everything and no go.

Is the key in the tailgate trick supposed to work on all first gen 4runners? Is the busted wiring harness the reason it's not working?

FYI - The back door light on the gauge cluster is functioning properly so there seems to be some functionality back there. PLEASE HELP!

Yeah the key should work. Check to make sure the 2nd bolt from the rear, driver's side, is installed on your top. It activates the sensor to ensure the glass is not raised with the top off. Also some say to check the wiper arm to make sure it is seated fully. Mine has never been affected by this but apparently it does affect some.

Also not sure how and where he ran the wires but if the PO jacked with the relay in the driver "B" Post then the key and console switch wouldn't work. Both switches go through the relay before providing power to the window motor.

If he was using external power to raise an lower, possible that wiring to window control relay (pic in helo-mech's post) is messed up, or relay itself is broken, or he was directly running rear window motor to bypass limit switches because they're broken or out of adjustment. Try tracing harness from under driver's side door threshold to window control relay (gotta undo side panels), and see if all wires are connected to connector properly like here:

Check against schematic here (full FSM link on my signature):

Pin Numbering here:

Hard to explain how limit switches work, but assuming they are OK, Even if console switches are removed, as long as relay is functional, key should be able to lower/raise because it's a different circuit. See schem above.

Below checks should give us a better idea of what's going on.

Assuming relay is good, wired good, and only the key switch is bad, you can simulate what key switch does as follows:
Wire to pin 11 (light blue-white stripe) when touched directly to chassis ground will lower window.
Wire to pin 12 (lt blue-blk stripe) will raise window.
Touching directly to ground bypasses top off switch.

You can do this by carefully stripping off insulation on wires above.

If this test works, chances are only the key switch is defective.

In same manner, touching wire going to pin 4 (Green with yel stripe) will lower window, and Pin5 to ground (Red yellow stripe) will raise it. This where console switch connects. Connecting directly to ground bypasses console rear window lock and rear door lock detection switches.

If both above work, you know your relay and limit switches are and you only need to fix console and key switches or wiring.

 

[KidVermicious]

Just popping in to say I freakin' love Rad4Runners electrical troubleshooting posts.

 

[JoeMegeddon]

yeah that was pretty awesome! Thanks all! Will report back after I tinker with it over the weekend.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Just popping in to say I freakin' love Rad4Runners electrical troubleshooting posts.

yeah that was pretty awesome! Thanks all! Will report back after I tinker with it over the weekend.

Thanks, guys!
I'm about done with my mod to control window from rear deck so, when sleeping in truck there'll be no need to scramble to front seat to operate the window (i.e to use little boys' room-LOL!). Figured I'd share what I saw and learned. BTW, I;m hoping to find a window control switch if you know anyone who's parting out. Else, I'll buy off the shelf (cheap).

KidV,
Thank Uncle Sam's Navy- Did int comb engines, diesel engines, air conditioners, etc when I was in.

-RAD

 

[foonanas]

Rad,

I used this switch to do a mod from the 12volt guy when my switch stopped working. now my key works and I can put that switch where ever i want..

I did not buy his kit but used the wiring diagram that he has on his site. SV Dude led me to that site.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Thanks

Rad,

I used this switch to do a mod from the 12volt guy when my switch stopped working. now my key works and I can put that switch where ever i want..

I did not buy his kit but used the wiring diagram that he has on his site. SV Dude led me to that site.

Thanks, foonanas.
Got mine wired already, and just waiting to add the switch. Wishing I had stock switch like on the console but off the shelf would do.

 

[foonanas]

I got a switch if you want it..

 

[davidko_z]

If he was using external power to raise an lower, possible that wiring to window control relay (pic in helo-mech's post) is messed up, or relay itself is broken, or he was directly running rear window motor to bypass limit switches because they're broken or out of adjustment. Try tracing harness from under driver's side door threshold to window control relay (gotta undo side panels), and see if all wires are connected to connector properly like here:

Check against schematic here (full FSM link on my signature):

Pin Numbering here:

Hard to explain how limit switches work, but assuming they are OK, Even if console switches are removed, as long as relay is functional, key should be able to lower/raise because it's a different circuit. See schem above.

Below checks should give us a better idea of what's going on.

Assuming relay is good, wired good, and only the key switch is bad, you can simulate what key switch does as follows:
Wire to pin 11 (light blue-white stripe) when touched directly to chassis ground will lower window.
Wire to pin 12 (lt blue-blk stripe) will raise window.
Touching directly to ground bypasses top off switch.

You can do this by carefully stripping off insulation on wires above.

If this test works, chances are only the key switch is defective.

In same manner, touching wire going to pin 4 (Green with yel stripe) will lower window, and Pin5 to ground (Red yellow stripe) will raise it. This where console switch connects. Connecting directly to ground bypasses console rear window lock and rear door lock detection switches.

If both above work, you know your relay and limit switches are and you only need to fix console and key switches or wiring.

Hey i got same problem... window works with button but not key. Where do i find these wires so i can test my key switch?

 

[Royisme]

Sounds like the driver's side "B" post or under the driver's side threshold trim.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Hey i got same problem... window works with button but not key. Where do i find these wires so i can test my key switch?

Read helo-mech's post with pic above.
Read my description of how to test.
If testing right at the connector works but key or console switches do not, You're in luck!; that means you only have a problem with wires between connector and switches , or the switches themselves. Tose are easy to replace if you read the schematic, also in above posts.

 

[Pyroboy]

My window works fine but only if the wiper is fully parked.

On top of what the others have noted, make sure the tailgate is fully closed. Both side latches have to 'click' twice to allow the relay to power the window.

You can do a lot of testing with the tailgate open and the interior cover and protection panel off, but use a screwdriver or similar to 'close' both latches first. If you can read a schematic, you can 'jumper' around the components, one at a time, until you find out what is causing the problem.

FWIW, mine cooked a contact in one of the relays in the control module years ago and I couldn't replace just the relay so I bought a new module. I think it cost $180 in 2000 or so.

 

[NorCalBorn]

Just popping in to say I freakin' love Rad4Runners electrical troubleshooting posts.

Ditto, whenever there's something I haven't posted a solution for I usually hit "Rad4Runner Electrical (Insert Specific Electrical Here)" and I eventually come across stuff.

If he was using external power to raise an lower, possible that wiring to window control relay (pic in helo-mech's post) is messed up, or relay itself is broken, or he was directly running rear window motor to bypass limit switches because they're broken or out of adjustment...

^*THAT!*^ IIRC if you put the wrong bolt in or a replacement one in and it's too long it ruins the switches lever.


~Also IIRC out of all the 1st-Mid2ndGen's I have ever fixed it almost always traces back to the secondary window defeat switch in the center console. IIRC it's the two green wires you jumper to bypass it and then the driver's door master cancel switch is all you need. I of course would need to search my own tech and that's just lame.

RE:

..Wishing I had stock switch like on the console but off the shelf would do.

A reminder, LMK via PM if you all need any electrics/switches, etc b/c one of the recyclers out here has a secret stash and stacks of switches that I mentioned before. I'll need a picture of the specific switch as well as the connector you want b/c some are wired differently.

:cheers:

 

[RAD4Runner]

Ditto, whenever there's something I haven't posted a solution for I usually hit "Rad4Runner Electrical (Insert Specific Electrical Here)" and I eventually come across stuff.
A reminder, LMK via PM if you all need any electrics/switches, etc b/c one of the recyclers out here has a secret stash and stacks of switches that I mentioned before. I'll need a picture of the specific switch as well as the connector you want b/c some are wired differently.
:cheers:

Tnx, Dude!

Guys, there's a bunch of interlocks that set conditions for when wiper and window can work or not. Sorry haven't had chance to analyze. Will update when I do.