Titanpat57
Senior Member
The only thing I would watch is the heat buildup from the inverter in the box itself....it may cause the unit to kick if it builds up too much heat.
Drawers came out great!
Drawers came out great!
ANTMAN'S Thread
- Thread starter Antman
- Start date
Johnny Utah
New member
i like your storage system the best because there seems to still be plenty of room on top of the storage system for stuff. Some of the others with the drawers seem too high and take up too much room. When you fold the back seats forward, is the entire back of the truck level? or somewhat level?
Antman
Elite Member
It's completely level with the rear seats folded flat- that's part of the reason I did this mod in the first place!
Here's the first attempt...Flat Cargo Floor
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Bay33saw
New member
I just got a little "Moist" looking at these pictures....great set up:wow2:
Changes were made today. Actually, I have been working on some things for awhile, but I just finished up today. Nothing huge here, but I wanted to keep things up to date.
The sub that I installed just wasn't cutting it for me. It really wasn't as clear as I originally thought, and it couldn't reproduce sub bass very well (kind of ironic, huh?) It could pump out bass drum, and that was about it.
Space=bass, it's true. I wasn't too happy about losing the stealth, under seat unit- but, I swapped it out for an Infinity Basslink anyway...Same price!
This sub has much more power, and produces a cleaner deeper bass thanks to a 10" sub, and a passive 10" sub to add depth.
Sounds great- Bass problem=solved!
One solution presents another problem. Where do I put this beast? Infinity provides 2 different mounting brackets with the sub, but I found them to be too bulky. I wasn't about to screw this into the lid on my storage unit- the horror!
I wanted to meet the following criteria:
1- The sub needs to be secure.
2- The sub must be removable quickly, preferably without tools.
3- The lid for the storage unit must remain useable.
4- It had to look half-way decent...
So...out came the storage unit. I moved the lid(s) forward, against the diamond plate bracket, and added material to the back of the unit. Minor changes that took a long time to complete! I build things to stay together, unfortunately for me. Plus, I had to repaint the entire thing. I deleted the lock because I never used it- may add it later?
Anywho- Did I say lid(s) ? I cut the lid in half. I would encourage anyone attempting this mod to do this. Much, much better! Now the unit can be accessed even if stuff is in the back.
Back to the sub...Using one of the factory tie down brackets, I mounted the Basslink using some nylon strap with a quick release buckle. No mounting brackets. I mounted the Basslink with the front facing the seat, which hides all the controls from view. They are easy to access with the seat folded a bit.
The sub can be removed in less than a minute. Being anal, I timed it at 42 seconds. :nerd:
I also added a 1000W inverter back there. Do you guys have any idea how many LED's I can run with this sucker!? (1engineer can let me know from one of his electrical buddies...)
OK- That's it. happy again!
RunnerDawg
New member
I was looking at this same Sub. I would like to mount it off the floor and out of the way since my dog rolls around in the back. Would it fit mounted on top of one of the wheel wells without being taller than the sidewall?
Johnny Utah
New member
oh okay. Great idea making it flat. I dont know why they didn't do that. Idiots!
you must have done this first attempt when i was pulling a sp8ball and was hibernating for 6 months
Antman
Elite Member
Started working on my auxilliary fuse box installation today after I came home from Virginia. Bonus! I was spotted by MuddyYota on 495, and actually got a thumbs up from a silver lifted 4th Gen. Lots of T4R guys in VA!
Back to the box...
Anyone following my thread knows I do things a little, well...differently. No exception here! To tell the truth, I have installed many fuse boxes in boats over the years, but it never occurred to me to install one in my vehicle. :redbrick: Duh. Considering all the crap I add that requires a power source, I could kick myself. Thanks guys- you inspired me!
So... I checked out Okki's excellent writeup in his build thread for some ideas. I have no need for an ignition-only fusebox, (not yet @ least) so this will be powered directly from the battery. Basically, it's a place to easily distribute fused power that is reliable and done "right".
I can sell my Stock in mini fuse-taps now...
I started by fabbing up some aluminum brackets- different than Okki's, but along the same lines. After 3 designs, I still wasn't too happy with the results- then I saw it. It was calling me to make it into something special. It was a Coleman plastic cutting board that you take camping. Never been used.
Why would I use such a thing? I'll tell ya.
In the marine industry they have a product called Starboard. It is an expensive, but extremely versatile material. It's used to make lids, cupholders, rod holders- basically anything you would make out of wood. Starboard is very similar to cutting boards, but has UV stabilizers and such to make it bulletproof in the marine environment. There aren't too many UV rays under my hood these days, so I'm good with what I have here...
Basically, this cutting block can be worked just like wood. Cut on a table saw, drilled, tapped, sanded, etc. It won't rot or warp, and holds up to heat relatively well (I wouldn't go making exhaust hangers out of it, but you get the idea). With the fuseblock mounted to the board, I have an excellent platform that is sturdy, and a great insulator from electrical shorts. It also protects the wires from chafing.
Here's what I have so far...
Oh yeah- the box is a BlueSea Systems ST Blade unit. It provides 6 individual 30A circuits- not exceeding 100A total, and grounds. All the hardware is stainless, contacts are tin plated copper, and the cover is Lexan. It also comes with labels for your circuits. High quality stuff, for around 40-50 bucks.
Power will come directly from the battery, into the main 60A fuse (just a standard setup you would use for, say, an amplifier hookup), and is routed into the box. The board will mount on top of the driver's side wheel well, directly behind the factory engine compartment fuse box. The studs on the board will line up with some fenderwell holes, and I will attach it in the wheel well with some stainless locknuts. All the hardware is stainless, BTW. I think I'll also utilize the grounding terminals on the fuseblock for accessories like the CB. Maybe I can get rid of some of the interference that I currently have.
CONTINUED......
Back to the box...
Anyone following my thread knows I do things a little, well...differently. No exception here! To tell the truth, I have installed many fuse boxes in boats over the years, but it never occurred to me to install one in my vehicle. :redbrick: Duh. Considering all the crap I add that requires a power source, I could kick myself. Thanks guys- you inspired me!
So... I checked out Okki's excellent writeup in his build thread for some ideas. I have no need for an ignition-only fusebox, (not yet @ least) so this will be powered directly from the battery. Basically, it's a place to easily distribute fused power that is reliable and done "right".
I can sell my Stock in mini fuse-taps now...
I started by fabbing up some aluminum brackets- different than Okki's, but along the same lines. After 3 designs, I still wasn't too happy with the results- then I saw it. It was calling me to make it into something special. It was a Coleman plastic cutting board that you take camping. Never been used.
Why would I use such a thing? I'll tell ya.
In the marine industry they have a product called Starboard. It is an expensive, but extremely versatile material. It's used to make lids, cupholders, rod holders- basically anything you would make out of wood. Starboard is very similar to cutting boards, but has UV stabilizers and such to make it bulletproof in the marine environment. There aren't too many UV rays under my hood these days, so I'm good with what I have here...
Basically, this cutting block can be worked just like wood. Cut on a table saw, drilled, tapped, sanded, etc. It won't rot or warp, and holds up to heat relatively well (I wouldn't go making exhaust hangers out of it, but you get the idea). With the fuseblock mounted to the board, I have an excellent platform that is sturdy, and a great insulator from electrical shorts. It also protects the wires from chafing.
Here's what I have so far...
Oh yeah- the box is a BlueSea Systems ST Blade unit. It provides 6 individual 30A circuits- not exceeding 100A total, and grounds. All the hardware is stainless, contacts are tin plated copper, and the cover is Lexan. It also comes with labels for your circuits. High quality stuff, for around 40-50 bucks.
Power will come directly from the battery, into the main 60A fuse (just a standard setup you would use for, say, an amplifier hookup), and is routed into the box. The board will mount on top of the driver's side wheel well, directly behind the factory engine compartment fuse box. The studs on the board will line up with some fenderwell holes, and I will attach it in the wheel well with some stainless locknuts. All the hardware is stainless, BTW. I think I'll also utilize the grounding terminals on the fuseblock for accessories like the CB. Maybe I can get rid of some of the interference that I currently have.
CONTINUED......
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Antman
Elite Member
C'mon man! I made a storage shelf out of a bed for crying out loud. Grow with me. :lmao:
Antman
Elite Member
OK- The fuse panel is mounted, and most of my accessories are wired up. I still need to get inside and clean up the mini-taps I have in the driver's footwell fusebox. No problem though, I still have 3 lugs left to access power.
I think it turned out pretty good!
Some pics:
I modified the mount a little bit this morning to include the ground feed, and to clear the brake lines on the master cylinder.
Here it is all mounted up- sans covers.
The 2 stainless locknuts are located in the wheelwell. The mount isn't going anywhere...
Some more pics...
Happy Modding!
I think it turned out pretty good!
Some pics:
I modified the mount a little bit this morning to include the ground feed, and to clear the brake lines on the master cylinder.
Here it is all mounted up- sans covers.
The 2 stainless locknuts are located in the wheelwell. The mount isn't going anywhere...
Some more pics...
Happy Modding!
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1engineer
Moderator
Guys, what he meant to say is he made the mount from "Engineered High Density Polyethylene Material procured from a specific outdoor supplier" instead of a "Coleman cutting board." Antman, you gotta say it right next time!
Antman
Elite Member
Honest to a fault- that's me! That's why we make a good team, you and I. :bigok:
Antman
Elite Member
Thanks for the compliment! I have been spending more time in the "other" Gen's sections, and some of the builds are insane! (Clownmeat for instance)
I would recommend that fuse box to anyone that is in need of powering their accessories safely. It's made for marine use and is high quality that will last (the price reflects that). They make a few different versions as well. Here's a link...
Circuit Protection*—*Blue Sea Systems
4-Ripcord
New member
That guy is nuts, dont even understand every other word he posts. I too have been readnig about the other gens. T4ROTM made me realize I dont know squat about the other half of this forum.
Thanks for the link!
