ANTMAN'S Thread
- Thread starter Antman
- Start date
jangoforhire
New member
Agreed
DEKA3
Registered User, A.K.A. "elias"
Yes!
PracticalFJ
New member
ayup
joneseyyy
New member
Antman
Elite Member
Thank you, Sir!
4ShoreRunner
New member
Great pictures!!! You finally let her stretch her legs a little bit!
You should have shown us what that gobi could do by throwing an old matress up there or something.
....also in regards to eastern get together....there is a group going to Rauch Creek on March 31st...
You should have shown us what that gobi could do by throwing an old matress up there or something.
....also in regards to eastern get together....there is a group going to Rauch Creek on March 31st...
phillyd2
Senior Member
oh, do tell!
I bet the Prius didn't get a wheel up in the air or climb a log though....
Wakeborder556
New member
Hi Antman,
My amp (separate from sub kind) has an extra wire that is used to turn the amp on/off depending if the HU has power or not. It's called a "turn on lead". Does the stock nav have something like that to tap into? If you don't know and could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.
My amp (separate from sub kind) has an extra wire that is used to turn the amp on/off depending if the HU has power or not. It's called a "turn on lead". Does the stock nav have something like that to tap into? If you don't know and could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.
jangoforhire
New member
Antman might know a specific wire for you to use but I can tell you what you are looking for.
All amps have these so they are not constantly on and draining your battery. Aftermarket HU's have turn on leads that you can tap into. But with the stock HU basically all you need is a wire that gives 12v+ in both the ACC and ON position (go digging with a multimeter). It can literally be any wire, as long as it gives the correct voltage at the correct times. Just tap into that with the amps turn on lead and you should be golden.
Again hopefully Antman can give you some more specific advice.
All amps have these so they are not constantly on and draining your battery. Aftermarket HU's have turn on leads that you can tap into. But with the stock HU basically all you need is a wire that gives 12v+ in both the ACC and ON position (go digging with a multimeter). It can literally be any wire, as long as it gives the correct voltage at the correct times. Just tap into that with the amps turn on lead and you should be golden.
Again hopefully Antman can give you some more specific advice.
Wakeborder556
New member
2012 te w/ entune..the main problem is that I can't find entune diagrams
Antman
Elite Member
Yeah- there aren't any WD's for Entune on here...
Chances are, if the Entune HU doesn't have a separate amp mounted somewhere else, the HU doesn't supply a "turn-on" lead. But, ya never know!
So, you have 2 options: (pretty much repeating what Jango said)
1- Take out the HU and test some wires with your multimeter...
2- Tap into an ignition-only +12V source to turn on the amp. A good place for that will be the P-Outlet fuse in the driver's footwell fusebox. You can use a minitap like I did some of my writeups (no splicing or cutting required).
Good thing is, the amperage required to turn on the amp is very minimal.
Good luck- sorry I couldn't help you more!
Chances are, if the Entune HU doesn't have a separate amp mounted somewhere else, the HU doesn't supply a "turn-on" lead. But, ya never know!
So, you have 2 options: (pretty much repeating what Jango said)
1- Take out the HU and test some wires with your multimeter...
2- Tap into an ignition-only +12V source to turn on the amp. A good place for that will be the P-Outlet fuse in the driver's footwell fusebox. You can use a minitap like I did some of my writeups (no splicing or cutting required).
Good thing is, the amperage required to turn on the amp is very minimal.
Good luck- sorry I couldn't help you more!
Antman
Elite Member
Changes were made today. Actually, I have been working on some things for awhile, but I just finished up today. Nothing huge here, but I wanted to keep things up to date.
The sub that I installed just wasn't cutting it for me. It really wasn't as clear as I originally thought, and it couldn't reproduce sub bass very well (kind of ironic, huh?) It could pump out bass drum, and that was about it.
Space=bass, it's true. I wasn't too happy about losing the stealth, under seat unit- but, I swapped it out for an Infinity Basslink anyway...Same price!
This sub has much more power, and produces a cleaner deeper bass thanks to a 10" sub, and a passive 10" sub to add depth.
Sounds great- Bass problem=solved!
One solution presents another problem. Where do I put this beast? Infinity provides 2 different mounting brackets with the sub, but I found them to be too bulky. I wasn't about to screw this into the lid on my storage unit- the horror!
I wanted to meet the following criteria:
1- The sub needs to be secure.
2- The sub must be removable quickly, preferably without tools.
3- The lid for the storage unit must remain useable.
4- It had to look half-way decent...
So...out came the storage unit. I moved the lid(s) forward, against the diamond plate bracket, and added material to the back of the unit. Minor changes that took a long time to complete! I build things to stay together, unfortunately for me. Plus, I had to repaint the entire thing. I deleted the lock because I never used it- may add it later?
Anywho- Did I say lid(s) ? I cut the lid in half. I would encourage anyone attempting this mod to do this. Much, much better! Now the unit can be accessed even if stuff is in the back.
Back to the sub...Using one of the factory tie down brackets, I mounted the Basslink using some nylon strap with a quick release buckle. No mounting brackets. I mounted the Basslink with the front facing the seat, which hides all the controls from view. They are easy to access with the seat folded a bit.
The sub can be removed in less than a minute. Being anal, I timed it at 42 seconds. :nerd:
I also added a 1000W inverter back there. Do you guys have any idea how many LED's I can run with this sucker!? (1engineer can let me know from one of his electrical buddies...
)
OK- That's it. happy again!
The sub that I installed just wasn't cutting it for me. It really wasn't as clear as I originally thought, and it couldn't reproduce sub bass very well (kind of ironic, huh?) It could pump out bass drum, and that was about it.
Space=bass, it's true. I wasn't too happy about losing the stealth, under seat unit- but, I swapped it out for an Infinity Basslink anyway...Same price!
This sub has much more power, and produces a cleaner deeper bass thanks to a 10" sub, and a passive 10" sub to add depth.
Sounds great- Bass problem=solved!
One solution presents another problem. Where do I put this beast? Infinity provides 2 different mounting brackets with the sub, but I found them to be too bulky. I wasn't about to screw this into the lid on my storage unit- the horror!
I wanted to meet the following criteria:
1- The sub needs to be secure.
2- The sub must be removable quickly, preferably without tools.
3- The lid for the storage unit must remain useable.
4- It had to look half-way decent...
So...out came the storage unit. I moved the lid(s) forward, against the diamond plate bracket, and added material to the back of the unit. Minor changes that took a long time to complete! I build things to stay together, unfortunately for me. Plus, I had to repaint the entire thing. I deleted the lock because I never used it- may add it later?
Anywho- Did I say lid(s) ? I cut the lid in half. I would encourage anyone attempting this mod to do this. Much, much better! Now the unit can be accessed even if stuff is in the back.
Back to the sub...Using one of the factory tie down brackets, I mounted the Basslink using some nylon strap with a quick release buckle. No mounting brackets. I mounted the Basslink with the front facing the seat, which hides all the controls from view. They are easy to access with the seat folded a bit.
The sub can be removed in less than a minute. Being anal, I timed it at 42 seconds. :nerd:
I also added a 1000W inverter back there. Do you guys have any idea how many LED's I can run with this sucker!? (1engineer can let me know from one of his electrical buddies...
)
OK- That's it. happy again!
Last edited:
All comes back to the dildo again. Oh the horror Hackman!
