ANTMAN'S Thread

Subwoofer install- HOW TO

This is where we are now, organized chaos!


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Time to tap into the rear speaker wires. White plug #G5. There are 5 wires, but we will only use 4.

These wires will send the signal to your amp (duh).
Black= LR+
Yellow=LR-
Red=RR+
White=RR- (Note use the THICKER white wire)

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Continued:

Your excellent instructions/how-to gave me the courage to remove my head unit in an attempt to install a similiar powered sub. However, I ran into a problem identifying the rear speaker wires at the back of the head unit. I have a 2010 Limited with JBL and Nav so I'm guessing the wiring is different.

Any idea which wires in the back of my head unit feed the rear speakers? Is it possible to tap into the rear speakers from the rear driver side floor panel? I popped off the kick plate when running the power cable but became intimidated by the mess of wires inside the loom..... Any help would be appreciated.
 
I have a 2010 Limited with JBL and Nav so I'm guessing the wiring is different.

Any idea which wires in the back of my head unit feed the rear speakers? Is it possible to tap into the rear speakers from the rear driver side floor panel? I popped off the kick plate when running the power cable but became intimidated by the mess of wires inside the loom..... Any help would be appreciated.

This should help! Page 2 has the rear speaker colors...

View attachment Audio System (Separate Type Amplifier) (2010 4Runner) .pdf
 

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Thank you again. I will give it another shot. Does it matter which wires I tap? (ex RL+ vs R-L+).

Are there advantages/disadvantages of tapping behind the head unit vs rear driver side door bottom?
 
Thank you again. I will give it another shot. Does it matter which wires I tap? (ex RL+ vs R-L+).

Are there advantages/disadvantages of tapping behind the head unit vs rear driver side door bottom?

I imagine the "#2" speakers are the ones in the hatch. It's not easy running wires into the truck from the hatch!

I would use the wires behind the head unit because you are already inside the cabin, not in a door or hatch...
 
I saw this stuff at Pep Boys and figured I would give it a try for the rear quarter windows. Why?

I have that thermoelectric cooler in the back (will get a fridge eventually) which isn't the greatest, most efficient thing out there. It draws quite a bit of power and only cools 40* below ambient temp. When the sun beats through the side windows it heats up the cooler making it even worse.

This tint helps a lot being 5%. I'm not a big fan of cheap tint, and it's a pain to remove once it turns purple.

This stuff is different. It's probably 3-4 times thicker than normal tint and it has NO adhesive. It just static-clings to the window so it can be peeled off and reused at any time with no residue left on the glass.

Spray the window and rough cut tint with soapy water, squeegee, trim with a sharp blade, done. Turned out surprising well. It's DARK back there now! You cannot see in the rear windows, even with your face right next to the glass, but outward visibility isn't bad.

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well its really not that hard to do tint on a 4runner. all the glass is straight/flat.

no compound curves, no double curves.

just like a carpenters dream flat as a 2x4 (or Montana)
 
god those pictures suck

Why do you hate me so much? Your last 4 posts about me have been so hurtful and mean. Why? Why??? WHY!!!!!!

One time. ONE TIME I screw up and leave for a trail ride before you get there and you hold it against me for life?

Bastard.
 
Dude, you do your own tint jobs?!! That's a whole nother level..
You make me feel so useless in life Jeff.

god those pictures suck

I concur. I take suck pictures. [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] takes it to a whole different level. I think the reason he is so skinny is he tried to make a living as a professional photographer once...

It's all part of the plan.

Bad pictures make my suck tint-job look oh so good. Lol
 

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