Any experience with this Transmission Fluid Flush Machine?

[sugjavier]

Does anyone have any experience with this Transpro Advanced Engineering machine?

Advantage Engineering >> Blog Archive >> Transmission
The link has a couple videos as an example.
Here's one from youtube as well: YouTube

It seems like they just hook this up to our dipstick tube line (and our battery) and do the full exchange from there while the engine is turned off.
Halfway through, they have you start your engine, go through the gears from Park all the way down and back up, 5 secs each.

Is this good or safe for our vehicle for those of us that doesn't want to do just a drain/fill but want a full flush?

 

[mtbtim]

You don't need a machine to do a full flush. You just need someone to help you out and you can do it utilizing the transmission pump to move the fluid for you.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RumPXivBlk8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[sugjavier]

You don't need a machine to do a full flush. You just need someone to help you out and you can do it utilizing the transmission pump to move the fluid for you.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RumPXivBlk8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Hey Tim, I get that and that's probably the best route, but just wondering for those that don't wanna do it themselves, is this a safe service/process?
I believe this is something the valvoline shops have available.

 

[mtbtim]

Hey Tim, I get that and that's probably the best route, but just wondering for those that don't wanna do it themselves, is this a safe service/process?
I believe this is something the valvoline shops have available.

I don't think they are a good idea. If the fluid pressure the machine exerts is more than what the trans pump normally exerts, it could free up sludge deposits inside the trans and possibly lodge in fluid passageways in the valve body causing issues. I'd much rather do it the manual method we show in the video.

 

[jross20]

I don't think they are a good idea. If the fluid pressure the machine exerts is more than what the trans pump normally exerts, it could free up sludge deposits inside the trans and possibly lodge in fluid passageways in the valve body causing issues. I'd much rather do it the manual method we show in the video.

Just to add more information.

We did a power flush in my rig a while back. I'll have to see if they know how much pressure it uses. It seemed to be a very slow process and used about 16 quarts if I remember correctly. I also had them replace the filter since we were dropping the pan anyway. (To inspect)

They said the old fluid was dark, definitely old, but it was not extremely nasty and they saw no crud. So either it didn't have any crud or the machine was gentle, haha.

I guess it depends on the condition of the fluid and discs.
:hungry:

 

[brillo_76]

I personally would never pressure flush a transmission. Tim has an excellent video on the subject. I use a pump and two buckets when I change mine. The buckets are opaque and graduated so I know how much comes out and how much goes in.

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[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Does anyone have any experience with this Transpro Advanced Engineering machine?

Advantage Engineering >> Blog Archive >> Transmission
The link has a couple videos as an example.
Here's one from youtube as well: YouTube

It seems like they just hook this up to our dipstick tube line (and our battery) and do the full exchange from there while the engine is turned off.
Halfway through, they have you start your engine, go through the gears from Park all the way down and back up, 5 secs each.

Is this good or safe for our vehicle for those of us that doesn't want to do just a drain/fill but want a full flush?

I used to work on those types of machines in another life. They were just coming out when I got out of that field. They are pretty slick machines. They use no pressure at all. The one I saw had a dual tube assembly that went into the fill tube and sucked it empty (engine not running) The fluid is measured by pressure differential or some even used capacitance probes. Once it sees no more liquid coming out it than refills through the other tube using a pump. Then the engine is started and it, qt for qt, matches what it is sucking out and is putting back in until it uses the amount of tranny fluid you set. Unfortunately, this method has more dilution, which is not a full exchange or "flush" as you stated. It is the fastest setup though. The newer ones can hook to cooler lines or dipstick or both I believe. That picture has cooler adapter fittings so it must have modes to hook to the cooler. Going through the cooler is much more effective in getting all the fluid out, again, with no pressure. I am a believer in full fluid exchanges. Some report that after doing some of the "flushes" they had tranny failure, so either that tranny was poorly maintained or abused or the flush machine was a power flush machine which is more likely to cause pump failure in the tranny or the machine itself was improperly operated or calibrated.

 

[jgue467]

I take all my vehicles to shops with trans flush machines, since the 80's, zero issues in any of them.

They hook up to the trans out/in lines not the dipstick.

Therefore the machine provides zero pressure, it is relying on the trans pump entirely. Sort of slow but 20 mins later, flowing clear red...ahhhh....

Don't be afraid of modern science mang!

 

[Thebeastlives]

I take all my vehicles to shops with trans flush machines, since the 80's, zero issues in any of them.

They hook up to the trans out/in lines not the dipstick.

Therefore the machine provides zero pressure, it is relying on the trans pump entirely. Sort of slow but 20 mins later, flowing clear red...ahhhh....

Don't be afraid of modern science mang!

Same use the experts and save time and money, afterall you don't do it that often

 

[mtbtim]

Same use the experts and save time and money, afterall you don't do it that often

I thought I knew what I was talking about with these machines but obviously I was mistaken.

Now, as for saving time and money taking it to a shop. I call bullshit on that. How much time do you burn driving over to the dealership or whatever other shop you take your rig to, have them give you a ride home with their shuttle service or you take an Uber. Then you have to get back to the shop somehow to pick up your rig. Now, if the shop is dialed and they get your vehicle into the service bay lickity split and get a tech on it, i'd say you're still burning at least 30-45 minutes there but my guess would be more. Then you have to part with whatever hard earned cash they charge for this service.

If you do it on your own, you jack up the front end, remove the front skid plate, remove the return line to the trans cooler, you put on another hose going into a graduated container and you get someone to start and stop the engine for you as your drain a quart and fill a quart until your fluid is looking all purty red. Easy! You didn't have to drive anywhere. You didn't have to get a ride home or hang out in some lame waiting room with a bunch of other people staring like zombies at their smart phones. If a buddy helped you, it's an excuse to go get a beer and talk about Sic Mods. Win, Win. You saved time and money.

 

[sugjavier]

I just talked to a Valvoline tech and they don't even have to have me on the bay. I can just park on the lot, they roll up this machine, and it goes through the dipstick tube (if you have one - and our trucks do) and that's it.

From there it seems like it drains and fills from 1 line that splits into 2 that's connected to the machine that has 2 canisters inside for the old fluid and the new fluid. They can do up to like 32 quarts in 1 run.

He explained that for the first 8 quarts, they have the machine do it while the engine is off. Then halfway done, they will have you start the car, go through from P to L, and then back up to Park, waiting 5 secs each shift.

And as far as the "pressure" they said that was real old technology. These new ones go slow and just the right pressure or even less to where it should not harm your transmission. If it does, then your fluid must be like really dark instead of the pink/red ish color.

The whole process for our trucks he said will only take like 20-30 mins. It's not that long at all. Cost for valvoline max full synthetic is $140 with the discount that they offer you right away. Normal is like $169.99. And he recommended every 30k miles.

After some of your feedback I might go this route.

 

[Thebeastlives]

I thought I knew what I was talking about with these machines but obviously I was mistaken.

Now, as for saving time and money taking it to a shop. I call bullshit on that. How much time do you burn driving over to the dealership or whatever other shop you take your rig to, have them give you a ride home with their shuttle service or you take an Uber. Then you have to get back to the shop somehow to pick up your rig. Now, if the shop is dialed and they get your vehicle into the service bay lickity split and get a tech on it, i'd say you're still burning at least 30-45 minutes there but my guess would be more. Then you have to part with whatever hard earned cash they charge for this service.

If you do it on your own, you jack up the front end, remove the front skid plate, remove the return line to the trans cooler, you put on another hose going into a graduated container and you get someone to start and stop the engine for you as your drain a quart and fill a quart until your fluid is looking all purty red. Easy! You didn't have to drive anywhere. You didn't have to get a ride home or hang out in some lame waiting room with a bunch of other people staring like zombies at their smart phones. If a buddy helped you, it's an excuse to go get a beer and talk about Sic Mods. Win, Win. You saved time and money.

not sure what place you go to but I drive up pay 85.00 sit in my car, the owner Walt comes over, we chat
Sports in my car and approximately 20 mins later I leave. 115.00 that I pay every few years I'm ok with. My oil at the same place takes less time and is approximately half the cost. Not worth my time or energy to do this myself...PERIOD.

 

[mtbtim]

not sure what place you go to but I drive up pay 85.00 sit in my car, the owner Walt comes over, we chat
Sports in my car and approximately 20 mins later I leave. 115.00 that I pay every few years I'm ok with. My oil at the same place takes less time and is approximately half the cost. Not worth my time or energy to do this myself...PERIOD.

That's pretty quick I'd have to say and not a bad price. But, I like doing my own work so I reckon to each his own.

 

[brillo_76]

I myself, like to clean my magnets in the pan and replace the filter when I exchange mine. I drain a gallon out then change and clean those magnets replace the filter.

Then dump a gallon of fresh fluid through that atf cooler return line via a simple oil pump. Once thats completed.

I dump 3 gallons of fluid in my pump clean oil bucket that is hooked to my atf cooler return line. Then hook the other side of the open return line to my used oil bucket. Fire up my rig. As it pumping the old fluid into the waste bucket. I am pumping new fluid into the return line.

By using opaque graduated buckets. I know exactly how much goes out and how much goes in.

When the fluid goes new fluid color the exchange is complete.

Hook the line back up to my cooler and verify the level.


I have a neoprene gasket on my pan so all this cost me is the fluid and a new atf filter and probably less then an hour of time.


I dont see how the flush machines are going to clean your pan magnets and replace your filter screen.

As those magnets pick up the metallic ferrous debris and these screen filters get plugged with sediment non ferrous debris as well..

What bakes the transmissions is not only poor fluid quality but insufficient fluid flow

This is why I do it this way as this has nothing to do with not using technical machines at all. It has to do with doing a better job.

A swap of fluid is better then nothing as thats mostly all those machines do.

If that's all you want to do. That's probably your ticket. I just like to a thorough job.

Whatever works best for the owner of the rigs as I just figured an explanation as to why it's done this way may some folks understand why.



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[sugjavier]

You're right, it's no use if magnets aren't being cleaned and the filter doesn't get changed. thanks for all the information everyone! Maybe I'll just do a combination lol

 

[3bears]

Its nice to hear that those machines dont do any damage..in the olden days they did..but I too prefer to twist my own wrenches . I also at the same time change my magnafine filter. I did not change or drop my pan on the last flush but will this time b4 fall.
I usually do many other things at same time, fuel filter, lube u-joints, oil change, check levels in transfer case and diffs, look for leaks or anything else that might be wiggling loose.
I like doing my own work, its a hobby and it gives me peace of mind to do everything else and the inspections and know first hand the conditions of everything.

 

[Dieselchessy]

At the oil can Henry’s/Valvoline ship I use they use that machine. I did it every 50k or so on my commuter rigs and 25-30k on the tow rigs for many years.

It sucks out, then fills, then sucks, then fills, ect...They put enough fluid in it for a good exchange/dilution. Takes about 15 to 20 minutes. You can watch the fluid coming out start out dark and gradually get nice bright red after a few cycles.

I dont do a pan drop, filter and magnets on every oil change on my rigs.

They have you sign a waiver. I’ve never had any issue.
Ide recommend a pan drop for the first go on a new to you rig that’s older. I don’t think most folks know rigs use anything but gas and engine oil, and quite a few of those don’t seem to know about the engine oil.

 

[mtbtim]

Now that I've learned more about these machines that go through the dipstick tube, I'd have to say they are pretty cool and I subscribe to dilution processes to keep the trans fluid in good shape.
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made the full flush video to have that as an option for people who don't believe in the drain and refill dilution process. On any vehicle I've had with an auto transmission, I've never paid for or performed a full flush on them. I just do more regular drain and refills. Instead of waiting a full 30k or so to do a full flush, I introduce new fluid on a more regular basis by doing a drain and refill every 10k and replace my Magnefine in-line trans filter at the same time. The Magnefine filters are rated to last 30k miles but I just swap it out anyway because we're not talking a huge amount of money.

I did a Blackstone Labs analysis of my trans fluid not too long ago and my fluid was in great shape from my more regular drain and refills.

As for dropping the pan to replace the filter and clean off the magnets, I believe this is a waste of time. When I made the filter replacement video, it was for the benefit of our viewers but also to satisfy my curiosity of the health of my trans by seeing how much metal debris had accumulated on the magnets and to also see if the filter was clogged at all. What I found is a filter that was 95% unclogged and with magnets with very little metal debris on them. Those magnets can attract metal for the life of your rigs without needing cleaning. When [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] trans had a major failure, those magnets had tons of metal attached to them. That let me know they can successfully attract metal debris from normal wear for the life of the trans.

So, OP, I don't know if you considered this, but you could simply do one drain and refill of your trans pan at the same time as your next engine oil change, then follow that with 2 more drain and refills at the next 2 consecutive engine oil changes. After 3 drain and refills spread apart by around 5k miles, your fluid will be in good shape. Then you could do like I do and do a drain and refill every 10k and you'll be golden. Just another option for you consider.

 

[Satter]

I take all my vehicles to shops with trans flush machines, since the 80's, zero issues in any of them.

They hook up to the trans out/in lines not the dipstick.

Therefore the machine provides zero pressure, it is relying on the trans pump entirely. Sort of slow but 20 mins later, flowing clear red...ahhhh....

Don't be afraid of modern science mang!

I always heard transmission flushes were really bad.

YouTube

 

[Arv]

You don't need a machine to do a full flush. You just need someone to help you out and you can do it utilizing the transmission pump to move the fluid for you.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RumPXivBlk8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Always great videos Tim! Can I overfill by one quart every time I replenish the ATF and drain 2 quarts at a time? I don't think overfilling would be that bad for a short time with no load on the tranny right? This way I can get to the 12 quarts with less starting and stopping of the engine.

What do you guys think? Comments please!

Thanks!