Any experiences flat towing a Jeep Wrangler?

simplemind

New member
Thinking of towing a JK (2-door) Wrangler and although it's probably within the load capacity, I don't have any experience flat towing. Yes, I've towed flat-bed trailers, boats, etc, but never 4 wheels down.
Any advice is most welcome.
 
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I have seen every type of vehicle (other than a 4runner) being flat towed headed south of the boarder. Sometimes 3 at a time.

Never done it myself.

Often wonder why the 4runner with a transfere case neutral position shouldn't do it?

Don't really care what the manual says...prefere real life experience lol.

TOAD thread has no bro science. :yield:
 
Make sure it's in neutral, or even better remove the rear driveshaft. And make sure the steering wheel is unlocked. Otherwise as long as it has a good tow bar it should follow you like a puppy. My little experience with car towing tells me they are easier to pull than trailers at times. It's backing them up that gets interesting.
 
Oops, I will be towing the Jeep, not the other way around. My concern is the weight and drag from towing the Jeep. I've towed a 10' covered U-Haul to CO (1000 mi) that probably weighed 3k with my 2010 and had no issues. Just being paranoid. :becky:
 
My dad used to always flat tow his 2 door jeeps to CO. He always pulled it behind a 6.2 Yukon though. We had no problems with the two door, very easy to pull, I would recommend not backing with it hooked up. He recently switched to a 4 door jeep, without the lift and 35 inch tires it pulled fine. However, he know has a 20 ft aluminum car hauler after making one trip with the lift and tires installed. It was terrible, pulled super bad, and felt completely out of control. If the jeep is stock it should be fine, but I think our big problem was the width of tires compared the "ruts" created by normal traffic.

Additionally we pulled a 2 door jeep behind a 6 cyl. Jeep grand Cherokee (2005) with no issues other than we unhooked before making the final pass into lake city co.
 
It is illegal to tow like this in most states unless you have the brakes on the towed vehicle operational also (at least one axle). Most people do not do this but if you are in an accident and lawyers get involved then you will be liable even if the accident was not your fault. I was just reading about this in 4wheeller or one of those magazines.
 
Thinking of towing a JK (2-door) Wrangler and although it's probably within the load capacity, I don't have any experience flat towing. Yes, I've towed flat-bed trailers, boats, etc, but never 4 wheels down.
Any advice is most welcome.

I've flat towed many Jeeps.......from off the trail! :gun4:

Kidding aside, Jeeps are one of the best vehicles to flat tow. Simple drivetrain, easy hookup, plenty of aftermarket wiring support, etc. I would be more concerned about the 4R and preparing it for towing (air bags, wiring lights, etc).

Make sure it's in neutral, or even better remove the rear driveshaft. And make sure the steering wheel is unlocked. Otherwise as long as it has a good tow bar it should follow you like a puppy. My little experience with car towing tells me they are easier to pull than trailers at times. It's backing them up that gets interesting.

You can't just pull driveshafts on all vehicles to flat tow. Most Jeeps have a slip yoke style rear driveshaft (until the JKs came out). If you pulled the rear driveshaft, all of the t-case fluid would leak out. Some t-cases will engage the oil pump when the driveshaft spins effectively pumping the oil out of the case. So, while your recommendations are correct for some applications, it's best to specifically research the vehicle in tow.

There are some great tow companies out there that can help with specific vehicles. Valley, Hoppy MFG, Draw Tite, B&W, to name a few. A phone call to customer service would help once the OP decides on which vehicle to tow.
 
It is illegal to tow like this in most states unless you have the brakes on the towed vehicle operational also (at least one axle). Most people do not do this but if you are in an accident and lawyers get involved then you will be liable even if the accident was not your fault. I was just reading about this in 4wheeller or one of those magazines.


Yeah, I'm aware of that, so I bought a Brake Buddy system for the Jeep. Also, the Jeep is set up to tow from the previous owner who pulled it behind his 40,000 lb. motorhome. Funny thing...he said he couldn't even tell when he was towing it. Don't quite think that will be the case with the 4R. Anyway it has the Roadmaster tow bar and is wired for lights, so that's pretty straight forward. I just lack "toad" experience.
 
Sounds like your all setup for flat towing from the previous owner, especially since they took the time to have a brake buddy installed.

Def don't unhook the driveshaft unless the previous owner installed a slip-yoke eliminator (a possibility especially if the 2door wrangler is lifted due to the short driveline).

Flat-towing is nice because there's no real load on the Runner's hitch, just need to get it rolling and stopped (with the help of your brake buddy of course). Down side is your still "technically" putting miles on your jeeps drivetrain, minus the engine.

Sounds like you got a good setup though so be safe and go for it! Otherwise a UHaul car hauler is a good option for those that haven't invested in a tow bar etc...

Have a great time!!
- Jeff
 
I flat tow a modified YJ with a short bed F250 and it is comfortable to drive, however that much weight behind a 4runner would be slightly scary to me, seems the wrangler would push the 4runner around if conditions where not just right. If the JK is a stock height or close to it would probably be doable for short distances but you are going to need to keep your speed down and avoid windy days IMO.

As others have said be sure it in true neutral (usually the t-case and tranny) and the steering wheel is unlocked. The brake buddy will def be beneficial.
 
I have flat towed a Wrangler for a short distance. It did not have the brake buddy and was a real handfull. Its gross weight was only a couple hundred pounds less than the T4R. As has already been said, with the brake buddy it should be an easy tow - getting it started is easy and stopping with brake control should be relatively easy. Without brake control it is a NO GO.

A trick to towing a Wrangler with an auto trans is to start the wrangler, put it in Drive and then turn off the ignition and put it in Neutral. This engages the internal fluid pump and leaves it engaged, so when towing you are getting bearing lube.
 
A trick to towing a Wrangler with an auto trans is to start the wrangler, put it in Drive and then turn off the ignition and put it in Neutral. This engages the internal fluid pump and leaves it engaged, so when towing you are getting bearing lube.

If [MENTION=5957]simplemind[/MENTION] has a TJ, this is the WRONG information. I'm not familiar with the JK automatic trans for towing. But if the OPs Jeep is a 97-05 (TJ) then you need to have the trans in PARK and the T-case in neutral. This will prevent the transmission pump from engaging if the front driveshaft starts to spin from driveline friction. If the pump "pumps", it will spew all of the trans fluid out of the front pump seal. If it's a manual trans, it should be in gear. Habit has me placing the trans in 2nd gear.

Ideally, the front and rear tires will be spinning with no load on the driveline whatsoever. Meaning, the driveshafts may turn (the rear one definitely will) and there will be no load being transferred to the transmission because it (auto) is in PARK or (manual) is in gear (usually 2nd gear).


The best thing to do in this situation is :rtfm: I'm not yelling that but I don't see another emoticon that puts it in a polite manner. The factory Jeep manual will explain in detail for how to flat tow it.
 
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A trick to towing a Wrangler with an auto trans is to start the wrangler, put it in Drive and then turn off the ignition and put it in Neutral. This engages the internal fluid pump and leaves it engaged, so when towing you are getting bearing lube.

This a 2013 JK, and the former owner never mentioned that, so I'll have to check further.

The factory Jeep manual will explain in detail for how to flat tow it.

+1 on that. After reading up on toad's on the Wrangler forum, I'm pretty sure the JK is straight forward as opposed to the earlier models.
 
This a 2013 JK, and the former owner never mentioned that, so I'll have to check further.



+1 on that. After reading up on toad's on the Wrangler forum, I'm pretty sure the JK is straight forward as opposed to the earlier models.

Please, please, please read the owners manual. It will have specific instructions on flat towing. As my memory starts to come back from working at the shop, I believe your Jeep no longer has a steering wheel lock. You will not need to put the key in the ignition. The transmission MUST be in PARK. The T-Case MUST be in neutral. I seem to recall all of the Jeep models after 2012 did not have a steering wheel lock. I don't know why they changed it. It's probably because of all the Jeep electrical failures while driving. They wanted you to be able to steer when the Jeep shuts off on you while driving.

Again, please confirm me through the owners manual. Never go off of information from a forum.
 
Thanks for the responses.
What I'm most concerned about is how hard is it on the 4R to tow a Jeep (2 dr. JK). I have the proper towing bar (Tow Master) and Brake Buddy. I don't want to strain anything that would eventually cost me money...just not worth it.
 

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