fuel filter and drive shaft
FUEL FILTER, if for nothing else than the satisfaction of seeing how much crap comes out of it. You MUST use a flare nut wrench on the 14mm nut. Just buy one if needed. It has to do with how the nut snugs down and seals the flared end of the fuel line to the filter. Trust me on this.
GREASE THE DRIVESHAFT. Do it again in a week, then again, then again, then again, etc. Its just grease, you wont go broke. I think this is the most overlooked maintenance item.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/97006-drive-prop-shaft-greasing-guide.html. I go by the first diagram, with Moly for the slip yokes, 2 and 7. Endless discussions and opinions about moly vs non moly.
Some argue pumping the slip yokes full (until you see them starting to extend) can result in hydrolock and a blown seal. Zerks are there so you can pump in new grease and purge the old grease. With properly maintained seals in good condition you're supposed to pump until you see new grease coming out the other end.
Mobil 1 synthetic grease nlgi no 2 | IH8MUD Forum, post #6 "a bit of a dissertation."
Mine were neglected, but eventually this is what I've achieved.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/698052-post17.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/63518-lubricating-propeller-shafts.html. Yes, this is a 4th gen thread but still applicable.
If it has not been done in a long time the grease gets used up and the remaining lithium (soap) dries and forms a hard blockage around the inside of the seal, which hinders the outflow of the old grease. I speculate this hard blockage may be the cause of blown seals. The idea is to get that blockage softened up and the grease moving again. I spent many hours over many months doing this. I sourced some Grade 1 grease at Grainger's because it is less viscous than the specified Grade 2 and thus flows easier. I was not able to find grade 0. I used a blow dryer to heat up the area, assuming the heat would soften the dried blockage. I assumed a heat gun would overheat the joint and cook the seal... I
assumed, i.e. I do not
know, so I chose the less aggressive approach. This blockage was only an issue with my slip yokes.
1) Speedbleeders
Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder. Makes brake flush a pleasure 2) Fluids 3) Grease 4) Trans cooler or new radiator 5) TBU (tundra/sequoia brake upgrade) 5) Lower front ball joints 6) Timing belt, mileage dependent 7) Steering rack and end link bushings 8) A Brazilian, i.e. Clay bar and synthetic wax. Ohhhh, so smooth.
