It depends on how they got the alignment numbers you wanted. After playing with my alignment so much and noticing the tendency for them to "Slip" under heavy use when they were a bit under torqued I started trying to get my cams pointing upwards so that they will encounter more resistance when/if they slip (though this means more stress is imparted onto the tabs vs. the cam just slipping out of place). It's not inherently bad, but it does mean the cams may have a bit more tendency to default to "downward" if they are loose. But as I said earlier, the biggest thing I noticed is that after an alignment most guys are probably cranking the cams down to about 60~80ft.lbs of pressure (as most people do alignments with wrenches and maybe a 1/2" ratchet and/or breaker bar) where in reality they should be 129ft.lbs on J150 (5th Gen 4Runners, FJ's, ect.) and 100ft.lbs on J120 (4th gen, early FJ cruiser, ect.) which gives them more clamping force and less incentive to move.
The reality is that the tabs shouldn't really flex as much as they seem to do, this is probably a combination of under torqued cam bolts and poor "strategy" when aligning the vehicles. It's not entirely the technician's fault (though to be fair [we] should be torquing things to spec) as when we do an alignment we're not really thinking of the best way to put cams to fight against the physics of off-roading; we're more interested in getting your alignment within specifications. So if the cams can wiggle/shift then they will impart pressure on the tabs which will cause them to open up and lose alignment. There's a certain point at which torquing the cams to the proper specification will not be enough (particularly if your tabs are already belled out badly), but it should take up most of that loosening effort unless you're doing seriously hardcore desert running/rock crawling; though I do believe beefier alignment tabs will help in the long run (planning on doing this to the 4th gen when I replace the LCAs)
