Any7Offroad Skidplates

I would be surprised if they hadn't fixed everything yet but don't quote me. Don't let it deter you! Somebody has to be the lab rat :D

In other news my skid has taken a beating.......... Not. I'm counting the days till I can go wheel and beat this thing up!

Very true. I'll probably be giving them a call tomorrow. Quick question for you, did this cut out portion I circled from Crazydubman's original picture not make it into your production skid?

HjXFOXO.jpg


I'm going to need all the help I can get for driveshaft clearance, so I think I'm going to want that.
 
I don't think they made the cut out quite as large. I would say that if you get one, just check the clearances when you install and try to cycle the suspension. My driveshaft swings over a ton so youay not have quite the same clearance issues as I do.
 
Where it angles for the increased clearance was changed. Mine was notched farther forward so there was more clearance issues. Again, mine was the prototype. They were going to scrap mine and make one more inline with the production piece. I said I would keep it so they didn't waste excess material.
 
If you look from the bottom of the skid, the kick out on the new versions are farther back making it less likely for there to be clearance issues.

I still need to trim mine even farther than the last time I clearanced.

I'm now rubbing in 2-3 different spots on the drive shaft.

I have a feeling that I would be rubbing on the gas tank itself without the skid. Probably will need to just clearance for that scenario and make it work. Not sure how many are rubbing there diff housing on the skid but I am and there is a ton of clearance at full stuff.....

Need to get it fully articulated, and check for clearances again. :frusty:
 
I have a feeling that I would be rubbing on the gas tank itself without the skid. Probably will need to just clearance for that scenario and make it work. Not sure how many are rubbing there diff housing on the skid but I am and there is a ton of clearance at full stuff.....

Need to get it fully articulated, and check for clearances again. :frusty:

Sucks to hear that man

How angled is your panhard bar? I've always wondered if you dropped the panhard bar mount enough to make it horizontal at zero articulation, if it would pull the driveshaft away from the skid due to the arc the panhard makes when you flex. I'm pretty sure [MENTION=21950]sn0wrunner[/MENTION] old rig had its panhard mount pretty low. Maybe he can chime in
 
Ya nothing is wrong with the skid plate. Just that I have more side movement than I think most people have. Would love to gain about 2" on the links to limit side to side movement but that would be a ton of work and probably not feesible for the amount of space is there for the upper link fram side mounts.

Ill grab a shot and post it up.

I know I was considering raising the axle side mount due to the dropped bumpstops. Need to get it fully stuffed on the drivers side to see how much room we have to move it up.

Thank should help with the rubbing.

Dropping the frame side without beefing up the entire mount, puts too much stress on it and there have been a few people that have tweaked it with the dropped bracket.

Brian2sun I believe was one.
 
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Well I emailed Darren. I figure if I still hit on his gas tank skid, I'll just make some cuts into it wherever I need them to clear. Like I said, I was hitting the stock gas tank skid on a flat, paved road whenever I hit the brakes, or even made a rougher shift (not to mention how bad it was going up a driveway lol), so it's pretty bad. I was getting real close to hitting the actual tank once I took it off, and it wasn't even flexed all the way out when I checked.

And it's good to know about the panhard bar drop and the added stress. Mine has been dropped quite a bit and almost sits level, so I'll have to keep an eye on it.

As you can see, I don't have much clearance even on flat ground with no gas tank skid:
geHp8uG.jpg


And here's a shot of the panhard bar:
6E2yupn.jpg
 
I've always thought about raising the axle side but I've never heard anybody talk about it or pros/cons. It seems like some have trouble with the dropped frame side mount and some don't. Not sure if there is any rhyme or reason to it besides beef. I think sn0ws mount was gussetted along with being pretty beefy. Maybe drop the frame side and raise the axle? A gussetted 1/4" piece or so I would have a hard time thinking would bend.

Then again it may not even help. Kraze is beating his skid up and his bar sits almost level.
 
The skid plate hugs the side of the gas tank pretty tight. It stops just under the spot welded seam on the tank.

If you were hitting on the factory skid while driving down the street then I would say there is a problem as something changed with the factory configuration of the axle placement or the skid. Was the factory skid damaged at all? was it bent down causing it to catch earlier than it should have?

I never hit it unless I was flexed. Never on full stuff.
 
The skid plate hugs the side of the gas tank pretty tight. It stops just under the spot welded seam on the tank.

If you were hitting on the factory skid while driving down the street then I would say there is a problem as something changed with the factory configuration of the axle placement or the skid. Was the factory skid damaged at all? was it bent down causing it to catch earlier than it should have?

I never hit it unless I was flexed. Never on full stuff.

Oh yeah, my factory skid had taken a beating and I'm sure that played a part. I was looking at these skids long before I even did the new lift and started hitting the stock skid though, just for the extra protection. The driveshaft hitting my stock skid was just the last straw that made me decide to pull the trigger :thumb3:.

I am starting to think something might be up with the axle placement though, as it does seem dangerously close to the gas tank, and I did drop the whole axle to get the new lift in, so maybe something got tweaked when it all went back together. I'll have to check it out. If anyone wants to post up a similar picture to the one I took of the driveshaft running by the gas tank so we can have some sort of comparison, that would be much appreciated! :cheers:

Also, Darren already emailed back (that was incredibly fast), so I'll be ordering one of the gas tank skids today.
 
I've always thought about raising the axle side but I've never heard anybody talk about it or pros/cons. It seems like some have trouble with the dropped frame side mount and some don't. Not sure if there is any rhyme or reason to it besides beef. I think sn0ws mount was gussetted along with being pretty beefy. Maybe drop the frame side and raise the axle? A gussetted 1/4" piece or so I would have a hard time thinking would bend.

Then again it may not even help. Kraze is beating his skid up and his bar sits almost level.

I have looked at my panhard when flexed and it does bend. If you had a solid 1/4 wall tube instead of the factory one, I can see that putting the added stress on the mount. With the drop bracket, it adds leverage to the mount, causing additional strain. As everyone likes to say, moving the weak link.
 
Oh yeah, my factory skid had taken a beating and I'm sure that played a part. I was looking at these skids long before I even did the new lift and started hitting the stock skid though, just for the extra protection. The driveshaft hitting my stock skid was just the last straw that made me decide to pull the trigger :thumb3:.

I am starting to think something might be up with the axle placement though, as it does seem dangerously close to the gas tank, and I did drop the whole axle to get the new lift in, so maybe something got tweaked when it all went back together. I'll have to check it out. If anyone wants to post up a similar picture to the one I took of the driveshaft running by the gas tank so we can have some sort of comparison, that would be much appreciated! :cheers:

Also, Darren already emailed back (that was incredibly fast), so I'll be ordering one of the gas tank skids today.

Glad to hear he got back to you quickly.

I will be dropping the runner off on Monday to get started on the double sheer rear tire carrier, 1/4 panel protection, beefed up frame side lower link mounts (they are going to be prototyping a DIY kit they are starting to produce), and a rear diff gaurd. Should be interesting seeing what they can put together.
 
Sounds good.

Going with quarter panel protection from the fender flair up to the turn signal on the tail light. Dimple died plate with tube. The current plates on the addicted offroad bumper will be extended up to the top tube on the 1/4 panel gaurd. RuffStuff 7/8 x 3/4 heims with 3/4 bolts on the passenger side for the pivot on the carrier, Southco latch for the drivers side. All will be recessed into the side supports to get it as close as possible to the tailgate. factory license plate tub and lights for the plate holder mounted center on the spare beadlock with all the light wiring ran through the mounting tubes. Mount tabs for my CB and HAM antennas.
Center of the carrier I will probably add in dimpled plates on the back side to fill in the holes between the upright in the center and diagonal bracing.

Additional legs dropped off the bumper wings to the frame for side support. Haven't decided whether I want it welded or try to keep it bolt on.

I always over-engineer things which is why I usually have to go custom.

Then again, it helps local fab shops stay in business haha.

Should be stout for sure.
 
I have looked at my panhard when flexed and it does bend. If you had a solid 1/4 wall tube instead of the factory one, I can see that putting the added stress on the mount. With the drop bracket, it adds leverage to the mount, causing additional strain. As everyone likes to say, moving the weak link.

I wasn't referring to the actual bar when I said 1/4" piece apologies. I meant making a drop for one side and a raise for the other. Ideally I would love to get rid of the frame side panhard mount completely and box in that crossmember then run a mount from the frame down of whatever material I want. But then like you said where is the weak point then? I've got a sonoran steel adjustable panhard so would the rod ends go? Who knows. Also too much work without a guarantee of it being worth it.

I'm stoked to see the tire carrier and quarter panel stuff. I've debated adding hoops to mine for protection but haven't needed them as of now (I guess when I figure out I need them is after its too late eh?). Also really interested in both the link mounts and the diff guard. I haven't been able to find a diff guard I like as of yet
 
I wasn't referring to the actual bar when I said 1/4" piece apologies. I meant making a drop for one side and a raise for the other. Ideally I would love to get rid of the frame side panhard mount completely and box in that crossmember then run a mount from the frame down of whatever material I want. But then like you said where is the weak point then? I've got a sonoran steel adjustable panhard so would the rod ends go? Who knows. Also too much work without a guarantee of it being worth it.

I'm stoked to see the tire carrier and quarter panel stuff. I've debated adding hoops to mine for protection but haven't needed them as of now (I guess when I figure out I need them is after its too late eh?). Also really interested in both the link mounts and the diff guard. I haven't been able to find a diff guard I like as of yet

Ya I got that part with the 1/4". My reason for saying that was because I already see my stock panhard bending under the stress that the suspension puts it through. Possibly with how much side movement my axle sees is the reason for the bending.

My thought also was that I currently can not fit a 7/8x3/4 heim on the axle side because the mount sits too low on the axle. My original plan was making a panhard out of 7/8" heims and 1.5" x .250 wall tubing. With no room on the axle mount, I had thought about changing that one out to make it work.

I don't think it is really a weak link, I just think the added leverage and tweaked mounts have shown to be true on a few rigs that have gotten wheeled really hard.

I know Crozhawk with his SASed 4th gen, used his factory upper panhard mount for his rear dynatrac 3 link swap. If he hasn't seen any issues, I think he has proven that it should be ok in stock form.

I think for the diff gaurd we will just be welding on a trail gear one. (Dont worry i will be grinding off the logo :sorry:) Just need something that protects it from smashes on rocks. For 38 bucks, I can't really beat the price. The diff has already been hammered a few times and damaged the e-brake cable mount.

I was looking at the blue torch fab full cover but decided I didn't need to spend $100 on something that really doesn't need to be over engineered.

The link mount kits will be something that will need to be welded in but it should be substancially cheaper than the lotus ones being it is just flat plates cut to shape. Will be up to the buyer to weld them in place. Just looking at an alternative to flat stock welded to the face for the DIYer's. I may do something a little more substancial but because im weird like that.... :decision:
 
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Man any7 is getting in the game for sure now. I used 3/4" heims with 1/4 DOm for my PH and it seems to be holding up well.

Side note. A raised axle side PH mount will raise your roll axis and should bring the PH back to a Flat position (best). I am looking forward to seeing the diff skid though.
 
Has anyone picked up their front skid setup. I like the angles on their front main skid and was wondering if anyone else had bolted up a set? I am also curious about the logo, I would rather not have it on the front since I drive it daily for work. One last question, did they ever work a sway-bar mount into it?

Not seeing any updates on their website, or even a place to look at these skids, are they even still making them?

Thanks,

Matt
 
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Man any7 is getting in the game for sure now. I used 3/4" heims with 1/4 DOm for my PH and it seems to be holding up well.

Side note. A raised axle side PH mount will raise your roll axis and should bring the PH back to a Flat position (best). I am looking forward to seeing the diff skid though.

I do plan on getting the panhard replaced at some point. Just need to figure out which components will be used. If I change up the axle mount I will be using the 7/8x3/4 heims with 1.5 .250 wall tubing. If not then it will be some 3/4x3/4 heims.

The diff skid will probably end up being a large trail gear one for simplicity and budget. If they can't get it to fit right, the will look into making one. Problem with that though, is there are quite a few companies already making them so whether there enough market for yet another one at a price point probably above the lowest one out there.

Has anyone picked up their front skid setup. I like the angles on their front main skid and was wondering if anyone else had bolted up a set? I am also curious about the logo, I would rather not have it on the front since I drive it daily for work. One last question, did they ever work a sway-bar mount into it?

Not seeing any updates on their website, or even a place to look at these skids, are they even still making them?

Thanks,

Matt

Hey there Matt,

If you talk to Darren i'm sure they can pull the logo out of the design for you. Maybe put in the Any7Offroad full logo instead. You will have to talk to him though to get a confirmed answer on that.

I think I am still the only person who has a full set of skids by them currently. They are offering a discount on the package for anyone local who can let them use there runner as a test pilot for production fitments. Add them on facebook. They have all there listings there and just posted up about the offer yesterday.

Making an alteration to the current crossmember for running a front swaybar with the skids was not an option when they were mocking it up being that mine was tossed when I first got the runner. If anyone local still has a swaybar, and would be willing to let them use it as a mockup, they may be able to work something up and make it available as an option.

One thing to consider, if you make a cutout for the swaybar mount, then pull the swaybar, it will not be as strong as it currently is with a flat surface mount flush to the original mounts. Once again, that would be a call for Darren and the need for a local 3rd gen with swaybar to mock up a new crossmember.

I don't think it will be out of the question. It sounds very doable, but without a vehicle to mock up with, there is no way to get it to fit the way it would need too.

Calling Drew "SantaCruzRunner" out on this one. He is fairly local and is looking to buy a set very soon. :p
 

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