ThrottleJock
New member
I've got this 75 dry shot kit sitting around leftover from a 5.0 Mustang. Might be fun... a little Nitrous never hurt anybody. 
Anybody install a nitrous kit on their 'runner?
- Thread starter ThrottleJock
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BlackWorksInc
New member
Yeah, SkylineGTR would be your best bet for information. I would think a lil go go gas would be okay. It mostly comes down to tuning and the amount used.
SkylineGTRracer
New member
I was summoned? lol what engine do you have? I've seen nitrous used both on the 1GR and the 2uz but both had some F/I, but I've seen a couple of N/A 1GR motors. imo smaller shots the better.
SkylineGTRracer
New member
Here are some rules to follow if your going forward with your nitrous setup.
1. Run a wet setup with boost - no exceptions, there is no room for error on top of boost. With a dry setup it's too easy for a lean spike to occur, and too easy for one cylinder to ingest more nitrous then another with single point injection. With a properly setup wet system you are guaranteed fuel delivery with the nitrous, and the cylinder that ingests the most nitrous will also ingest the most fuel (not running lean like it would if only getting its fuel from the vehicles FI system).
2. The tune must be absolutely spot on (more important with larger shots), it wont take a lot of knock to grenade this engine under that kind of load (boost and nitrous).
3. One walbro 255 is a minimum requirement even for small shots, consider two and a high flow fuel filter if going large 75 +.
4. If running a larger shot consider a staged or good progressive system, often a shot broken into stages or done via modulation will allow you to run double the power that you normally could in a single stage. If doing a progressive setup you MUST be able to datalog, it is imperative that you log large AFR swings and correct them via tuning, solenoid calibration, or system modifications (progressive setups can be out of sync very easily).
5. Get it installed by someone competent (which can be hard to find), there is a lot more to installing a nitrous system properly (safely) then hooking up some plumbing.
6. If using over a 75 shot colder plugs are a wise idea; its a very wise idea to read the plugs from each cylinder every time you make jetting changes.
1. Run a wet setup with boost - no exceptions, there is no room for error on top of boost. With a dry setup it's too easy for a lean spike to occur, and too easy for one cylinder to ingest more nitrous then another with single point injection. With a properly setup wet system you are guaranteed fuel delivery with the nitrous, and the cylinder that ingests the most nitrous will also ingest the most fuel (not running lean like it would if only getting its fuel from the vehicles FI system).
2. The tune must be absolutely spot on (more important with larger shots), it wont take a lot of knock to grenade this engine under that kind of load (boost and nitrous).
3. One walbro 255 is a minimum requirement even for small shots, consider two and a high flow fuel filter if going large 75 +.
4. If running a larger shot consider a staged or good progressive system, often a shot broken into stages or done via modulation will allow you to run double the power that you normally could in a single stage. If doing a progressive setup you MUST be able to datalog, it is imperative that you log large AFR swings and correct them via tuning, solenoid calibration, or system modifications (progressive setups can be out of sync very easily).
5. Get it installed by someone competent (which can be hard to find), there is a lot more to installing a nitrous system properly (safely) then hooking up some plumbing.
6. If using over a 75 shot colder plugs are a wise idea; its a very wise idea to read the plugs from each cylinder every time you make jetting changes.
ThrottleJock
New member
I've got the 4.7L V8, the truck is otherwise stock. I've had nitrous setups before, wet setups on anything high comp but I figured that these things were pretty under-strained from the factory - simple, low compression, iron block, reputation for living to ridiculous miles, so the gears started turning on the NOS setup on the 'runner.
You definitely have to get the fueling right, but in general I've found that with mild setups (75 shot to me is mild) if you keep the total charge to 10hp/cylinder or less the stock ECU and fuel rail can generally compensate, so dry system's okay. Is this not the case with this motor? If so I won't even bother, might explain why so few of these are seriously tuned.
I was initially more concerned with how the tranny will hold up. I haven't read much (or any) negative stuff re: the 5spd autos in these things but I don't think it's working to hard at the stock load.
I've got a Ducati with a blown base gasket to fix at the moment. Ha! No, that one wasn't nitrous related. Thanks for the tips fellas!
You definitely have to get the fueling right, but in general I've found that with mild setups (75 shot to me is mild) if you keep the total charge to 10hp/cylinder or less the stock ECU and fuel rail can generally compensate, so dry system's okay. Is this not the case with this motor? If so I won't even bother, might explain why so few of these are seriously tuned.
I was initially more concerned with how the tranny will hold up. I haven't read much (or any) negative stuff re: the 5spd autos in these things but I don't think it's working to hard at the stock load.
I've got a Ducati with a blown base gasket to fix at the moment. Ha! No, that one wasn't nitrous related. Thanks for the tips fellas!
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ThrottleJock
New member
Unfortunately I'm a total speed nut. Everything I have goes fast, or ends up going fast. I actually bought this truck to slow down a bit and as a tow vehicle for my race bikes. That lasted for a couple weeks, haha.
I'm trying to fight it, but it'll probably end up happening. I'll keep you posted.
SkylineGTRracer
New member
The only thing to modify with increased power levels on the a750 is the valve body, IPT does this and works really well. Only problem is the down time. I'm not sure what kind of trans you have being an 03 but I'm sure IPT has a solution. I'm like you I love going fast and I try to go to the track every week in my truck. I have had to stop doing auto x'ing as my brakes are done and I'm working on a BBK at the moment.
edit- this may or may not help you but when I race I give my trans a 100 rpm buffer. I change at 6100 rather than 6200 so it can change gear as fast as possible without hitting the rev limiter.
edit- this may or may not help you but when I race I give my trans a 100 rpm buffer. I change at 6100 rather than 6200 so it can change gear as fast as possible without hitting the rev limiter.
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Unfortunately I'm a total speed nut. Everything I have goes fast, or ends up going fast. I actually bought this truck to slow down a bit and as a tow vehicle for my race bikes. That lasted for a couple weeks, haha.
I'm trying to fight it, but it'll probably end up happening. I'll keep you posted.
HAHA. Hey, free country! Have at it. I do the exact opposite. Solid Axle swaps, pulling anti- sway bars for more flex, they all make a vehicle slower but more offroad worthy. Driving with a sway bar gone makes your passengers grimace.
