Anyone changed there own front Wheel Bearings on a 4th gen yet???

[T4RME]

Right front wheel bearing going on 2008 at 70K. No reason to have this fail. From reading this topic this sounds like an involved project. However, if I can find a hub and bearing complete assembly how involved is the repair? Is it as simple as...

Remove tire, remove and support caliper and rotor, remove bolts on old hub, hub comes right out, put on new hub and bearing assy and bolt everything back up and you are good to go?

 

[03L4RUNNER]

Right front wheel bearing going on 2008 at 70K. No reason to have this fail. From reading this topic this sounds like an involved project. However, if I can find a hub and bearing complete assembly how involved is the repair? Is it as simple as...

Remove tire, remove caliper and rotor, remove bolts on old hub, hub comes right out, put on hew hub and bearing assy and bolt everything back up and you are good to go?

You got it except you have to take off the axle nut (assuming you're 4wd) nut is 32mm if I recall correctly. Of you're 2wd then do exactly as you wrote. Good luck. Does this 3 times so feel free to pm me if you get stuck or have questions

 

[T4RME]

You got it except you have to take off the axle nut (assuming you're 4wd) nut is 32mm if I recall correctly. Of you're 2wd then do exactly as you wrote. Good luck. Does this 3 times so feel free to pm me if you get stuck or have questions

Axle nut with breaker bar or impact wrench - check! Thanks! Now I just have to find a good source for a hub/bearing assembly.

 

[jstutz101]

This looks like what your looking for - 2003 Toyota 4runner 2004-2009 4runner complete Front Wheel Hub bearing assembly | eBay

 

[4boer2]

Hello all, In the classifides section, I have a complete hub assembly part to sell for $200. It is for 4WD only btw.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-t4r-items/118362-brand-new-front-hub-bearing.html

 

[T4RME]

I have a complete bearing and hub assembly on the way (thanks 4boer2:cheers and since this is the wife's ride I walked through a dry run of the install today.

Got the dust over off using the screw driver of going very very slow around edge and up-sizing the screw drivers from small to large as the gap widens. Liberal use of WD-40 on all bolts and left to soak for a few days.

Didn't try to break the caliper bolts but they should be fine when I get into it. What I am worried about is getting the old assembly off. Hopefully it won't give me too much trouble.

Other notes -
The axle nut is 35mm and it takes a deep socket to fit over the end of the axle.

Does anyone happen to know the torque for that nut? And torque specs for the 4 hub bolts?

Here is a FJ write up with photos that others might find helpful.

 

[MikeInNH]

Liberal use of WD-40 on all bolts and left to soak for a few days.

Ever try PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench instead. WD-40 is great for water displacement (I.E. WD). PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench are designed to loosen rusted bolts.

 

[Sungod]

Ever try PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench instead. WD-40 is great for water displacement (I.E. WD). PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench are designed to loosen rusted bolts.

I have never seen a difference between the two and have never been able to break a bolt loose after using any kind of lubricant no matter how long it soaked. Heat is the only real solution.

 

[T4RME]

Not to make it a PB Blaster vs. WD 40 thread - I just happen to have WD-40 on hand and it always seems to work. I've got the torch at the ready as well...

edit: PB Blaster worked and was the right tool for the job.

 

[Sungod]

To answer your torque question for the axle nut one page of the FSM says 173 ft/lbs and another says 217. I would stick with the 217. It doesn't have a torque spec for the 4 bolts on the 4wd diagram, but shows 59 ft/lbs. Personally I torqued them down probalby closer to 80-90.

I also looked at the fj write up you posted. 1. The guy was an idiot for buying dealer bearings. He paid way too much. 2. Do not wedge a prybar in between your studs. You are only asking for trouble doing that. Either have the proper tools or get the proper tools. With the price drop and improved performance of electric impacts there is no excuse anymore if you don't have air.

One last thing. Don't expect to see that much corrosion inside yours. I live in DC, while not as bad as further north, I had no rust at all and my bearing easily pulled off the knuckle.

 

[BCfish]

Who cares about the studs hes got a whole new assembly to go in right?? I did mine the same way and when it's time to do the other I'll just replace the 2 studs worst case scenario when I press the bearing into my spare hub.

 

[Sungod]

Who cares about the studs hes got a whole new assembly to go in right?? I did mine the same way and when it's time to do the other I'll just replace the 2 studs worst case scenario when I press the bearing into my spare hub.

That would be great, but you still have to torque the nut when you install it. It is stupid to ruin studs when you don't have to.

 

[BCfish]

I never said any thing about doing it up by the way.The easy and least expensive way when reinstalling everything is to just bolt the wheel and tire on and torque the axle nut on:snacker:

 

[4boer2]

No problem and good luck!

 

[T4RME]

Success! Thanks to everyone's help I now have a new hub/bearing installed and everything is nice and quiet. This was definitely not an easy DIY even as a bolt on solution.

I think a step that needs to be discussed is the steering knuckle removal. There is a seal as shown in the photo that gets buggered up during hub bearing removal.

In my case I'm going to have to go back and redo that step when I have more time to pull the entire steering knuckle. In the meantime there will be no fording of rivers for this 4runner.

Anyone know where a DIY on this seal and part number would be?

 

[lethal t]

Success! Thanks to everyone's help I now have a new hub/bearing installed and everything is nice and quiet. This was definitely not an easy DIY even as a bolt on solution.

One important note about the all in one, prepressed bearing/hub ebay assembly:
Because it is a bolt on fix you bypass the steering knuckle removal. When you bypass the steering knuckle removal step you then omit the replace "knuckle grease retainer cap inner" (see page one earlier in this topic for graphic). The "knuckle grease retainer cap inner" can get damaged when removing the old bearing and should be replaced.

In my case I'm going to have to go back and redo that step when I have more time to pull the entire steering knuckle. In the meantime there will be no fording of rivers for this 4runner.

FWIW I believe a poorly seated, damaged, or deteriorated knuckle grease retainer cap inner is the entry point for water and the cause of all bearing failures. Going through any deep water, snow or puddles (the right side gets the most puddles) water will get in there. It just will. Ultimately the water will wash out the bearing grease and then you have dry, noisy bearings or worse.

Here is a photo of what will now be my next project...the damaged knuckle grease retainer cap inner.

My wife's 04 V8 4wd is in need of the front wheel bearing. You mentioned that it wasn't a easy DIY. What part of the install were you referring to?

 

[bubba 10]

Front wheel bearing

I'm still confused. If I replace the bearing with housing, does the hub press into the bearing? I may be making this harder than it needs to be.
2004 sr5 v-6 4wheel drive.

 

[jstutz101]

I'm still confused. If I replace the bearing with housing, does the hub press into the bearing? I may be making this harder than it needs to be.
2004 sr5 v-6 4wheel drive.

If you go the pre-assembled bearing route on eBay you essentially remove 4 bolts remove the old bearing assembly, install the new and bolt it back up. The bearing is already pressed in the hub. If you read this post http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/101038-how-install-new-cv-axles.html#post914207

Use removal steps 1-8.

Good Luck!!

 

[Ducknut]

Abs sensor issue when replacing bearing

I currently have my 2005 4runner sport 4wd in at the shop to have both front wheel bearings replaced. He called today and said that when taking it all down both of the abs sensors were frozen in and he did not know if he couLd get them off without breaking them and would likely need to replace both for $230 each. I am not mechanical and dont know where these sensors are or if breaking both seems logical. I could not find anything online regarding this problem so wondering a if he broke them during a his disassembly and is trying a to pin me for the fix. Any thoughts on the potential validity of this problem from those more familiar with thoperating mechanics behind this repair. Thanks mike

 

[03L4RUNNER]

I currently have my 2005 4runner sport 4wd in at the shop to have both front wheel bearings replaced. He called today and said that when taking it all down both of the abs sensors were frozen in and he did not know if he couLd get them off without breaking them and would likely need to replace both for $230 each. I am not mechanical and dont know where these sensors are or if breaking both seems logical. I could not find anything online regarding this problem so wondering a if he broke them during a his disassembly and is trying a to pin me for the fix. Any thoughts on the potential validity of this problem from those more familiar with thoperating mechanics behind this repair. Thanks mike

I'd say he broke it or either wants to make some money off of you, when I did both of my bearings all i did was unplug the sensor wire and never touched the actual sensor itself.