Anyone changed there own front Wheel Bearings on a 4th gen yet???

[jstutz101]

I currently have my 2005 4runner sport 4wd in at the shop to have both front wheel bearings replaced. He called today and said that when taking it all down both of the abs sensors were frozen in and he did not know if he couLd get them off without breaking them and would likely need to replace both for $230 each. I am not mechanical and dont know where these sensors are or if breaking both seems logical. I could not find anything online regarding this problem so wondering a if he broke them during a his disassembly and is trying a to pin me for the fix. Any thoughts on the potential validity of this problem from those more familiar with thoperating mechanics behind this repair. Thanks mike

The ABS sensors are in the side of the bearing housing. I removed mine once and it was tight but it didn't break. There is a screw holding it in but I would think they would know to remove that first before pulling it out! Here is what they look like - I didn't realize they were so expensive!

Brake Sensor - ABS | 2003 Toyota 4 Runner 4WD 6 Cylinders U 4.0L EFI DOHC | AutoZone.com

 

[bubba 10]

I would ask to look at them. I've not heard of them being "frozen". Perhaps this is possible, but I've never seen it.

 

[bob3dsf]

OK digging up an old thread here.... I've got a suspect front wheel bearing, but still not sold on it as the humming I'm experiencing only cropped up after my last rotation...

Anyhoo, in the event that it is the wheel bearing I've been pouring through tons of threads leaning all I can. Even the decent (relatively) price my local shop mentioned is pretty crazy. Found the website for the guy who sells the hub/bearing already assembled:

Blue Pit Bearings | 2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner Complete Front Hub Wheel Bearing

A much better price to be sure, but I likely don't have any issues with my hub. So I found the 20 ton press from harbor freight (has very good reviews) on sale (and with coupon) for $160! I thinking to myself.. Why not get the press, and get the new bearing with spacer/oil seal/etc. and come out better than that (or at least about equal) and have the capability to do another one later on, etc....

 

[Sungod]

OK digging up an old thread here.... I've got a suspect front wheel bearing, but still not sold on it as the humming I'm experiencing only cropped up after my last rotation...

Anyhoo, in the event that it is the wheel bearing I've been pouring through tons of threads leaning all I can. Even the decent (relatively) price my local shop mentioned is pretty crazy. Found the website for the guy who sells the hub/bearing already assembled:

Blue Pit Bearings | 2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner Complete Front Hub Wheel Bearing

A much better price to be sure, but I likely don't have any issues with my hub. So I found the 20 ton press from harbor freight (has very good reviews) on sale (and with coupon) for $160! I thinking to myself.. Why not get the press, and get the new bearing with spacer/oil seal/etc. and come out better than that (or at least about equal) and have the capability to do another one later on, etc....

I wouldn't spend extra money getting the bearing/hub assembly unless your hub is bad. I also wouldn't buy a $160 press just for the hell of it. I have a lot of tool, but a press is something I don't and probably won't own. It is much easier just to drop it off at a machine shop or most any garage and have them press them in. You are looking at maybe $25 for them to do the work.

 

[BUGSEY]

Another passenger here in this 4th Gen ship.
Any comments if this HF tool to separate the hub from bearing and then press the new bearing into the old (or new) hub works without a press?
Any rec's for tools needed with or without a press?
FWD Front Wheel Bearing Adapters
What's the best fitting brand of bearing or hub/bearing combo?
Ebay has 2 new bearings & 2 hubs $160 vs Bluepit $470.
Happy fathers day all!

 

[NJshadow93]

I ordered from Bluepit when I did mine. It was an overall great experience. Fast shipping, great customer service (he answered all my questions quickly and completely) and I did both bearings myself for less than the cost the dealer quoted me for one side. It was worth it to me to just get new everything, including the hubs.

 

[ktom3001]

I used Blue Pit for both and it made the job a lot faster without having to run to the machine shop and wait/hope they got it back together right.
For those trying to diagnose one side VS the other, mine was counter to the standard logic. When I turned right and loaded the left bearing, the noise would go away leading me to believe it was the right bearing. This turned out to be wrong so I ended up doing both sides. The difference in highway ride was incredible as the bearing was already failing when I bought the vehicle.

 

[Scott E.]

I am planning a drivers/passenger cv axle replacement in the near future. I am also planning on replacing the front bearings at the same time, since everything will be apart anyway. I think I have a plan for every step, except pressing the new bearings onto the hub. I am thinking of freezing the hub and putting the bearings in the oven at about 225 for a little while. Then they should slide together. I have also thought about using dry ice to chill the hub, so that it gets really cold and contracts. I have seen machine shops use liquid nitrogen before, so dry ice should be about the same.
I have seen some references to measuring the space between the hub and bearing and making sure that the new assembly matches after pressing it on. Is this correct? or do I bottom out the bearing on the hub? I looked in the tech manual and I don't see anything about a space specification. I guess the question is, how far do I press the new bearing onto the hub?

 

[Denio]

Steering Wheel Vibaration

NCSCOTT... Found your post from three plus years ago on the vibration and I believe I am having the same problem.. What confuses me is that you are into replacing the rear bearings to fix the problem..
My problem is at highway speeds (60 plus) the steering wheel feels like I am holding on to a tuning fork.. No problems at in town driving,, New tires less than 100 miles (Michelin LT2) some noise... new tires or possibly road noise. When the road curves to the left the vibration goes away..
Just trying to figure this out so I replace the right part.. 2004 SR5 V6 4WD with 90k and a OME lift that has been on for 8 or more years...

Thanks for any education you can give me as I cannot do the work myself..

Jim

 

[Sungod]

NCSCOTT... Found your post from three plus years ago on the vibration and I believe I am having the same problem.. What confuses me is that you are into replacing the rear bearings to fix the problem..
My problem is at highway speeds (60 plus) the steering wheel feels like I am holding on to a tuning fork.. No problems at in town driving,, New tires less than 100 miles (Michelin LT2) some noise... new tires or possibly road noise. When the road curves to the left the vibration goes away..
Just trying to figure this out so I replace the right part.. 2004 SR5 V6 4WD with 90k and a OME lift that has been on for 8 or more years...

Thanks for any education you can give me as I cannot do the work myself..

Jim

Vibration in the steering wheel is typically a balance issue Toyotas are notoriously hard to balance accurately.

Wheel bearings usually make noise that goes away when you turn. It is simple to check the wheel bearings. Jack up one side and grab the tire and see if there is any play, and repeat on the other side.

 

[fdbyrne]

NCSCOTT... Found your post from three plus years ago on the vibration and I believe I am having the same problem.. What confuses me is that you are into replacing the rear bearings to fix the problem..
My problem is at highway speeds (60 plus) the steering wheel feels like I am holding on to a tuning fork.. No problems at in town driving,, New tires less than 100 miles (Michelin LT2) some noise... new tires or possibly road noise. When the road curves to the left the vibration goes away..
Just trying to figure this out so I replace the right part.. 2004 SR5 V6 4WD with 90k and a OME lift that has been on for 8 or more years...

Thanks for any education you can give me as I cannot do the work myself..

Jim

A shaking steering wheel is usually a tire issue, but the tuning fork sensation isn't likely an out of balance tire. The vibration is too fast. Tires have a lot of mass and usually shake the steering wheel differently. I'm familiar with the tuning for sensation you're talking about. Mine does it too. New front bearings didn't help me with that but I needed them anyway. Pulled my rear axles and ended up putting them back without replacing the bearings because they appeared to be fine. The fact that yours goes away on a turn does seem to point towards bearings though.

I think mine might actually be a motor mount or transmission mount. Whatever is vibrating is vibrating much faster than the wheels are spinning since it's more of a buzz in the steering wheel than a wheel rotation thing. Mine seems harmonic with the engine working at certain rpm ranges.

 

[Denio]

Thanks for the replies...
It is not the tires which the old Michelin AT2 I had on were doing it also, so I put on new tires... Michelin LT2 purchased at Americas Tire..
I am thinking bearing too.. Which ones? On a curve to the left it goes away.
If I read the Thread correctly NCSCOTT replaced the rear bearings. Doesn't make sense to me, but so do a lot of other things in life.
I am going to send NCSCOTT a PM for a little more help on which one he replaced..

 

[Billynath1988]

NCSCOTT... Found your post from three plus years ago on the vibration and I believe I am having the same problem.. What confuses me is that you are into replacing the rear bearings to fix the problem..
My problem is at highway speeds (60 plus) the steering wheel feels like I am holding on to a tuning fork.. No problems at in town driving,, New tires less than 100 miles (Michelin LT2) some noise... new tires or possibly road noise. When the road curves to the left the vibration goes away..
Just trying to figure this out so I replace the right part.. 2004 SR5 V6 4WD with 90k and a OME lift that has been on for 8 or more years...

Thanks for any education you can give me as I cannot do the work myself..

Jim

at one point I had this issue, ive done a few things that involved taking apart front end suspension parts since and I have never had the problem again. My main suspect which didnt really make sense was actually a lazy or frozen caliper/calipers. Which I have since replaced and not the bearings which is what I had originally thought as well. I have not replaced those yet and do not have this problem anymore. Check upper ball joints. Check sway bar end links and if possible do a tire rotation to see if the vibration changes, if it does get them balanced.

 

[mlc2000]

Vibration in the steering wheel is typically a balance issue Toyotas are notoriously hard to balance accurately.

Wheel bearings usually make noise that goes away when you turn. It is simple to check the wheel bearings. Jack up one side and grab the tire and see if there is any play, and repeat on the other side.

This is exactly what I experienced a while back. Both sides were actually bad with the driver side making the more noise than the passenger side.

I used bluepit and they were easy to change. Just one thing, do not go by the service manual. You do not need to disconnect the brake line and bleed the brakes to take them off. Just tie up the caliper and you're good to change them.

 

[NCSCOTT]

I wouldn't spend extra money getting the bearing/hub assembly unless your hub is bad. I also wouldn't buy a $160 press just for the hell of it. I have a lot of tool, but a press is something I don't and probably won't own. It is much easier just to drop it off at a machine shop or most any garage and have them press them in. You are looking at maybe $25 for them to do the work.

I disagree on some points. Most any garage will not be able to just "press off" the front bearings from the hub. I watched a 20 ton press do nothing to break the bearing free from the hub. Then the torque require on the nut is well beyond the average torque wrench. If I recall correctly it is well over 200 ft lbs maybe upwards of 275. No 1/2 inch torque wrench will do that. I had to take mine to the dealer to have it torqued, where they had the correct tool. IMHO you save a ton of time and hence money by buying a complete unit that can be installed in a driveway in an hour with simple handtools.

A machine shop can press the bearing off but again time/gas/money to have that done.

Just my thoughts after going both routes myself.

 

[NCSCOTT]

NCSCOTT... Found your post from three plus years ago on the vibration and I believe I am having the same problem.. What confuses me is that you are into replacing the rear bearings to fix the problem..
My problem is at highway speeds (60 plus) the steering wheel feels like I am holding on to a tuning fork.. No problems at in town driving,, New tires less than 100 miles (Michelin LT2) some noise... new tires or possibly road noise. When the road curves to the left the vibration goes away..
Just trying to figure this out so I replace the right part.. 2004 SR5 V6 4WD with 90k and a OME lift that has been on for 8 or more years...

Thanks for any education you can give me as I cannot do the work myself..

Jim

Jim

I was only into replacing the rear wheel bearings after I replaced both front, which did not fix the buzz/hum I could hear and feel in the steering wheel and at my feet which led me to believe it was a front bearing. I also replaced the tires during all this, not because of the noise but they were due.

I also replaced the wrong rear bearing first. I had the rt rear replaced. The left rear was the ultimate cause of my problem.

Put the rear of your 4Runner up on Jack stands place under the axle. Do this with some sort of wheel blocks around the front tires. start it up ans put it in drive, you can give it a little gas but it will spin up to speed on its own. go side to side in the rear and listen for a humming sound. when I did this it was clearly louder on the left/drivers side. This removes the front wheels & all Tires as possible suspects.

The sound travels up the frame rails and is radiated towards the front. I know many posters will say its tires, but you have already replaced them so IMHO there is no way its tires. Frozen brake caliper. I don't think so. I had those too and never had a noise or vibration at that time, just uneven brake pad wear inside pad to outside pad.

I could not have replaced the rear bearings on my own, I am very mechanically inclined and have lots of hand tools. The entire axle shaft must be removed and the bearing pressed off with a special tool/adapter. Without this adapter, of course this is a Toyota Special tool, you run the risk of damaging the axle shaft. I had a 35 year Toyota/Honda Mechanic do this who owned the special tool and he took it to a machine shop to press them off and back on with the adapter which looked like a long steel tube that fit over the axle all the way down to the bearing with a steel plate on the end with various holes. http://www.freedomracing.com/09521-25011-01-rear-axle-shaft-bearing-puller.html link to a version of the tool.

The rear bearings are Side specific.

Read through my other post on this thread, I really tired to describe what and how I did things the best I could.

Good luck
Scott

 

[NCSCOTT]

So I found the 20 ton press from harbor freight (has very good reviews) on sale (and with coupon) for $160! I thinking to myself.. Why not get the press, and get the new bearing with spacer/oil seal/etc. and come out better than that (or at least about equal) and have the capability to do another one later on, etc....

I watched a 20 ton press do nothing to break the bearing free of the hub. The guy that did my rear bearings still took it to a machine shop since his 20 ton press was not enough. These things are a beast to replace. especially the rear since the entire axle shaft has to be removed. A complete front assembly will save to a ton of time and possibly $$.

 

[peebee]

Probably not 100% relevant but some good info nonetheless.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTS4ke7nViE

 

[DEF4Runner]

Here's another one that's probably not 100% relevant, but I used it as a frame of reference when I pulled the bearing/hub assy out of my 08 4X4. After watching Eric the Car Guy on YouTube, I'm glad I went the pre-assembled route. BluePit has since raised their prices...I think there's another guy out here selling the fronts assembled for under $200. Can't beat it unless you have the equipment to press bearings.

https://youtu.be/BVuM8iVO6u8

 

[fdbyrne]

Here's another one that's probably not 100% relevant, but I used it as a frame of reference when I pulled the bearing/hub assy out of my 08 4X4. After watching Eric the Car Guy on YouTube, I'm glad I went the pre-assembled route. BluePit has since raised their prices...I think there's another guy out here selling the fronts assembled for under $200. Can't beat it unless you have the equipment to press bearings.

https://youtu.be/BVuM8iVO6u8

I think you're talking about [MENTION=100129]nj636[/MENTION]. He sells assembled bearing units for about $160. Many of us run them. I've got two of his units on my 4Runner.