Anyone changed there own front Wheel Bearings on a 4th gen yet???
- Thread starter NCSCOTT
- Start date
Atlanta_man
New member
I've searched and searched for a video or even a description for installing the pre-built 4x2 front bearing units... I know they cost more than the 4x4's and speculate that the 4x2 versions have an extra part or two in the inboard side. I've also read that the 2wd pre-built assemblies are more difficult to install but don't know the details. Time to search the Tacoma or other forums?
Scott.. Thanks for the help..
First thing I did was talk to my local garage and they told me that it was going to be difficult problem to find. Which led me to you post.. and that scared the heck out of me. I would never have believed the rear bearing. the local garage didn't believe it either. I printed out four of your posts and gave it to them to read.. next Tuesday they are going to take a look at it and we will go from there. I truly believe you have saved me a lot of money, time, and grief.
I cannot do the work myself as I had Bi-Lateral knee replacement 7 months ago and being 72 doesn't help either..
Again Thanks, and I will follow up when it's all over..
Jim
First thing I did was talk to my local garage and they told me that it was going to be difficult problem to find. Which led me to you post.. and that scared the heck out of me. I would never have believed the rear bearing. the local garage didn't believe it either. I printed out four of your posts and gave it to them to read.. next Tuesday they are going to take a look at it and we will go from there. I truly believe you have saved me a lot of money, time, and grief.
I cannot do the work myself as I had Bi-Lateral knee replacement 7 months ago and being 72 doesn't help either..
Again Thanks, and I will follow up when it's all over..
Jim
nj636
Banned
I would say the 6 lug 2wd hubs are easier to install compared to the 4wd hubs. Easier because you do not have to torque a cv axle nut.
The 2wd hubs are more expensive because I have to use a Toyota hub; there aren't any aftermarket hubs for the 2wd -- price reflected in the total.
Atlanta_man
New member
Thanks, easier sounds good. I take it no 35 mm socket is needed for the 2wd's ?
blazier196
New member
2005 4wd, (changed wheel berings twice on my own.
First got the the 4runner with a 122k miles had 285's on it. Shook front tire on lift and knew the bering was bad. Took me one night and a afternoon. Was able to press first bering out and after multiple attemps to press 2nd one out ended cutting it out with a torch. If your not good with a torch I wouldent recommend it. Bought new berings from orileys. It's about every 2 years with my runner. I almost expect it now. Keep the seals good and it will last longer.
First got the the 4runner with a 122k miles had 285's on it. Shook front tire on lift and knew the bering was bad. Took me one night and a afternoon. Was able to press first bering out and after multiple attemps to press 2nd one out ended cutting it out with a torch. If your not good with a torch I wouldent recommend it. Bought new berings from orileys. It's about every 2 years with my runner. I almost expect it now. Keep the seals good and it will last longer.
BlackWorksInc
New member
There's a quick overview on my build thread when I replaced my wheel bearings.
It's for a 4WD, but the 2WD shouldn't be any different from what I have seen.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/84725-zombie-truck-2-0-mpav-build-9.html
It's for a 4WD, but the 2WD shouldn't be any different from what I have seen.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/84725-zombie-truck-2-0-mpav-build-9.html
nj636
Banned
Atlanta_man
New member
I've been looking at the shop manual which leads one through removal of the steering knuckle to do this job. Is that much disassembly really required for the 2wd before the bolt on of the new hub/bearing unit ?
BlackWorksInc
New member
Why does everyone keep saying it's a 35mm... pretty sure it's a 36mm otherwise I think I need to talk to my Snap-On guy why the 36mm he sold me is nice and snug on the axle nut. 
Atlanta_man
New member
There's a youtube video out there that the mechanic explains clearly that 36 is wrong and shows his 35 as perfect. His 35 and 36 are both probably worn !
Why does everyone keep saying it's a 35mm... pretty sure it's a 36mm otherwise I think I need to talk to my Snap-On guy why the 36mm he sold me is nice and snug on the axle nut.
It's a 35mm. I bought the 36 based on internet info I could find. It works but clearly has more play than the 35mm would.
Also, the torque spec is not 200+ lb/ft as mentioned in another text. More like 160.
Atlanta_man
New member
Can anyone tell me if changing the bearings (using a pre-made hub/bearing unit purchased from the fine fellow on this forum) requires a special tool to properly torque the nut on the back of the new unit AND do I need a slide hammer to get the old bearing/hub units out ?
Critical info: this is a 2 wd question
Critical info: this is a 2 wd question
Well I can only speak for 4 wheel drive but I will be shocked if the following info is wrong. When I did mine I was instructed to use a hammer and a chisel to wedge in between the bearing assembly and the dust sheild. Worked like a charm. As far as torque is concerned I just cranked on it until it was good and tight.
Atlanta_man
New member
The 2WD is only a tiny bit like the 4WD as to front bearing / hub design
that's why I'm looking for someone who has done the 2WD hub/bearing pre-built unit exchange
don't expect to find an axle nut at all on the 2WD, or even an axle for that matter...
that's why I'm looking for someone who has done the 2WD hub/bearing pre-built unit exchange
don't expect to find an axle nut at all on the 2WD, or even an axle for that matter...
