Anyone done a steering rack and pinion before?

[Tomsriv]

Last week I got back from a 2,200 mile road trip to Arizona including 100 miles on dirt roads. When I got back I did a full inspection of my runner. Found a loose sway bar bushing and a hole in the driver side rack and pinion boot.
The sway bar bushing was loose and the bar rubbed on the threads so long that I couldn't repair them so I had to buy a new link. The boot was cheap enough, $15 but the problem is you have to take the tie-rod off to put the new one on. Well long story short I totally destroyed the tie rod end getting it off. No big deal I got one, got it back together and had it aligned today. I was only 0.020 out of spec for toe alignment
Question:
When I got the boot off their was a little fluid in it. I understand this is not normal, its a sign of the seal leaking. I also notices corrosion on the steering shaft, so the dime sized hole in the boot must have been there a while. I'm going to leave it for now, but has anyone replaced a rack and pinion on their truck? I'm close to 225,000 miles on this rig so its at the time when anything and everything can go wrong. At least it is easy to get to it.

 

[4-Ripcord]

I havn't yet. but I am getting ready to.

Look at this thread if you havn't seen it already.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...k-guide-pictures.html?highlight=steering+rack

 

[habanero]

I have. The worst part was getting to the lines. I used an A1 Cardone rebuilt complete with inner tie-rods and a set of outer tie rods from the dealership. I used Autozone's free rent-a-tool for the outer tie rods because I hit like a girl. Turned out I didn't need it 'cause I'd just replaced the ball joints in the past few months. (If you're thinking about replacing ball joints now might work out for you, what with the tie rods being apart) Anyway, didn't take forever. You might also replace what bushings don't come with whatever rack you get while you're at it. Mine didn't come with the D shaped one that fits around the rack. Also, the nut on the mount in the center is tacked on, just the bolt turns. Be careful about turning the rag joint to get to the nuts. Some people tie the steering wheel so it doesn't move. Mark it before you pull it apart. Same for when the rack's apart, make sure you set the new one up so it's the same, like the splines for the steering. Mark it before you knock it out of the old one. If you have a diff drop (aftermarket for lifted ifs) you will need to unbolt it to get the long rack bolt far enough out.
I am in no way a mechanic, this is just my observations of the process as I did it.

 

[Mr. Leary]

Getting the lines off is by far the worst part. Make sure that your wheels are straight when you take it apart. You might even wait to button up everything until you are sure that you have the steering wheel and tires lined up correctly (no big deal just irritating if its crooked).