Anyone ever replace the rear hatch window regulator?

[rwh963]

while struggling with resolving the frozen latch on the hatch, i have been using the window to access and load. well, one side of the regulator pulley system failed (rusted off), and the window can only roll up on one side. the inner panel was already exposed due to latch efforts, so i now have to brace the window in place with a 2x4 under it! anyway, i went to the dealer to get an idea of what i need. they told me part number 69807-35020.

wondering if anyone has done this repair themselves, and any tips. i see the part for as low as $130 new online.

 

[MikeinNH67]

I replaced mine with a used one. I don't recall it being hard, I think it was harder to get the old one out. There's a few videos on YT you can watch.

 

[rwh963]

ordered a new replacement for $130.

 

[SocalSam]

I did mine. It's not a difficult job but it is also not my first time. Mercedes regulators are a royal PITA. Be sure to use stainless nylon nuts and bolts.

 

[Deb Mac]

I’m in the same boat, except mine is jammed crooked. Can’t go up or down. The bracket (tabs on the right side have rusted and broken, and the bolts (from what I’ve seen in videos they are all 10mm?). So far I’ve just managed to get a good look in there just to see what’s wrong. Those bolts on the right side are rusted in place! Going to take some work to get them off of the glass.

Now my question is, since I can’t get the window to budge (motor does work, it’s the window and right side rail that’s cock-eyed) can I just cut the wires/cables and then shift the window closed by hand and wedge it in place with a 2x4? The regulator is garbage anyway, so I figured cutting the wires won’t hurt anything. I know that removing the motor would allow me to manually move the window, but I have a feeling that the motor might be a bit of a challenge to remove from the sub-assembly and might be better attacked on the bench rather than standing under the hatch.

 

[SocalSam]

I’m in the same boat, except mine is jammed crooked. Can’t go up or down. The bracket (tabs on the right side have rusted and broken, and the bolts (from what I’ve seen in videos they are all 10mm?). So far I’ve just managed to get a good look in there just to see what’s wrong. Those bolts on the right side are rusted in place! Going to take some work to get them off of the glass.

Now my question is, since I can’t get the window to budge (motor does work, it’s the window and right side rail that’s cock-eyed) can I just cut the wires/cables and then shift the window closed by hand and wedge it in place with a 2x4? The regulator is garbage anyway, so I figured cutting the wires won’t hurt anything. I know that removing the motor would allow me to manually move the window, but I have a feeling that the motor might be a bit of a challenge to remove from the sub-assembly and might be better attacked on the bench rather than standing under the hatch.

Yes, cut the wire.

 

[Deb Mac]

Yes, cut the wire.

 

[Deb Mac]

. Thank you. Made sense to me, but what makes sense doesn’t always mesh with reality.

 

[SocalSam]

. Thank you. Made sense to me, but what makes sense doesn’t always mesh with reality.

Why not replace the regulator assembly? Even though I never open the rear window, the thought of it not working bugged me. I got the parts at the JY for $50.

 

[Deb Mac]

Why not replace the regulator assembly? Even though I never open the rear window, the thought of it not working bugged me. I got the parts at the JY for $50.

I am replacing it. But I can’t get the window in position to access the bolts on the left side. I either have to remove the motor so the cables move freely, or cut the cables completely in order to slide the window into position. Since it’s going the way of all things, cutting the cables might be easier. That way I can work on removing the motor pn the bench instead of overhead.
Wish I had the option for a $50 regulator. Nothing like that up here - I’m in a pretty remote part of BC. $175 on ebay - new oem from japan. Should be here in a couple of weeks.
In the meantime, if I can get the old regulator off and brace the window in the closed position, I can still drive it.