Anyone mount a solar panel to roof rack?

[jmarsh8923]

I am looking to run a setup on solar panels for camping. It won't be a permanent solar panel to the roof only one that is setup while stationary and camping.

I like camping alot but I also like life luxuries. I was wondering if you could run a solar panel and battery to power the electrical system in the car. To be able to use the A/C, heater, radio, and 12v. To camp comfortably no matter what the temperature is outside.
I found something like this I am just not good at wiring and don't know what exactly to do or setup.
Zero Emissions Micro Generator and Solar Kit - Herrington Catalog

 

[RoofRack]

The older I get, the more luxuries I need for camping. We have $200 pads now and a fridge is soon to follow...

But your heat and AC in the car run off the engine so a solar panel won't help that unless you get secondary units.

I am looking to run a setup on solar panels for camping. It won't be a permanent solar panel to the roof only one that is setup while stationary and camping.

I like camping alot but I also like life luxuries. I was wondering if you could run a solar panel and battery to power the electrical system in the car. To be able to use the A/C, heater, radio, and 12v. To camp comfortably no matter what the temperature is outside.
I found something like this I am just not good at wiring and don't know what exactly to do or setup.
Zero Emissions Micro Generator and Solar Kit - Herrington Catalog

 

[jmarsh8923]

Yeah an electric fridge was going to be one of the first things I added. I don't know what I would do if I ran out of cold beer on a camping trip.

So there is no possible way to bypass the engine having to be on for the electronics to work?

 

[IBallEngineer]

I am looking to run a setup on solar panels for camping. It won't be a permanent solar panel to the roof only one that is setup while stationary and camping.

I like camping alot but I also like life luxuries. I was wondering if you could run a solar panel and battery to power the electrical system in the car. To be able to use the A/C, heater, radio, and 12v. To camp comfortably no matter what the temperature is outside.
I found something like this I am just not good at wiring and don't know what exactly to do or setup.

That thing won't do very much for what you want. And as stated, the A/C is not an electrical device, it is mechanically driven off the engine, so the engine needs to be turning. And the heater takes the heat from the engine coolant, so it requires the engine to run.

That device is basically a battery with the option to recharge it of solar. It is designed to power small accessories like your phone and such. Here is an example of it's lame output.

150W is equivalent to 12.5 Amps, which sounds like a lot. Unfortunately we don't know the amp hour rating. So it may only give you 12.5 amps for an hour. It says it will charge your cell phone 15 times, so I guess it's good for something. Since it is a static 150W, we can assume the 12.5 amps for one hour, or 5 amps for 2.5 hours. Really not much good for anything more than an accessory charger. It says the 13W solar accessory will charge the unit in 25 hours of sunlight. Again, pretty lame.

Solar can be a great source of free charging capability, but it has limitations. If you are adding bigger solar panels, you need to be aware of the voltage, unless you use a charge controller, which regulates the charge voltage. I recently installed 3 x 100W panels on a VW Westfalia, which run in series and produce 60 volts. The charge controller, converts that to normal 12-14V and charges the battery as needed. It can pump 35A in to the battery if needed. But those panels are huge, and pretty much take the entire roof.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Yeah an electric fridge was going to be one of the first things I added. I don't know what I would do if I ran out of cold beer on a camping trip.

So there is no possible way to bypass the engine having to be on for the electronics to work?

you could power the electronics easily, just not the A/C and heat.

 

[RoofRack]

Sweet Trailer!!!

 

[RoofRack]

Good Info Here

Goon info on Solar and batteries here. I will be wanting to set this up when I eventually get a fridge.

-M

 

[4flyer]

For what's it's worth, I'd just go with an auxiliary battery.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

 

[jmarsh8923]

So then i would need a much bigger one for just general camping
Like this one combined:
Boulder 90 Solar Panel | | Goal Zero
Goal Zero Yeti 400 Solar Generator | Power Packs | Goal Zero

I am just looking for a way to keep the car cool and the cooler/fridge cold.

I don't know if yall go on kickstarter of things like that much but they have a really small low profile a/c unit that would be awesome.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kurt/noria-cool-redefined/description

 

[IBallEngineer]

For what's it's worth, I'd just go with an auxiliary battery.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

The auxiliary battery is a given if the loads require it. The recent posts don't state what they are looking to do, but let's look at the original questions and get an idea.

Please read this because a fridge will kill an auxiliary battery very quickly. Let's say your fridge draws 6 amps while running, and it's hot out so it runs continuously. Using the calculator below, we can see how fast it kills a battery.

https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html

At 6 amps for 8 hours, a 106 Amp hour battery would be depleted. So you can quickly see how the solar charging could be a huge benefit.

 

[CWccw]

Im not allowed to start my own threads yet... wth gives?

Where is the place to run the power wires from the solar panel? This concerns me because of battery distance and wire gauge size.

 

[Lindenwood]

It shouldnt be too crazy. I am eventually going to install a 160w flexible panel directly to my roof. That should only require something like 10 or maybe 8ga wire, so not too crazy.

To add to the thread, this is the panel I will likely select. It fit almost perfectly between the rack rails to the sides and longitudinally between the sunroof and hatch pivot.

This is specifically because, like the OP, my fridge will deplete my 55AH second battery in about 24 hours (to the low-voltage cutoff, at least).

Renogy 160 Watt 12 Volt Extremely Flexible Monocrystalline Solar Panel - Ultra Lightweight, Ultra Thin, Up to 248 Degree Arc, for RV, Boats, Roofs, Uneven Surfaces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HJQBVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-xsWBbCC9SV08

 

[twowheel]

Im not allowed to start my own threads yet... wth gives?

Where is the place to run the power wires from the solar panel? This concerns me because of battery distance and wire gauge size.

You'll be running around 19v and less than 10amp from the panels to your charge controller. You will have higher amperage and less voltage (~12-14v) from your charge controller to your battery. Size your wire accordingly and adjust as necessary to avoid voltage drops over the various lengths. One thing to note, get an MPPT controller as you will get more bang for your buck over the day esp with just a 160 panel you'll be able to squeeze everything you can out of it.

EDIT: Actually got my posts mixed up. I'm making the assumption that you CWccw are using the same panel that Lindenwood is using. Regardless the same theories apply.

 

[lcs7h]

To add to the thread, this is the panel I will likely select. It fit almost perfectly between the rack rails to the sides and longitudinally between the sunroof and hatch pivot.

Renogy 160 Watt 12 Volt Extremely Flexible Monocrystalline Solar Panel - Ultra Lightweight, Ultra Thin, Up to 248 Degree Arc, for RV, Boats, Roofs, Uneven Surfaces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HJQBVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-xsWBbCC9SV08

Just a thought about the flexible Renogy Panels. The reason why I like these so much is the versatility in mounting. If you mount to the roof with the rack on either side, a part of the panel will be shaded for much of the day. Even small partial shading greatly reduces the amount power generated. It also limits your ability to use both the rack and maintain output from the panel. Another option would be to mount the panel onto a cargo box, even if it was a smaller pelican type box it would elevate the panel from potential shading while still maintaining some of the utility of the roof rack.

something like this
http://www.badgertrek.com/sportsmobile/PanelsInstall.jpg

 

[Lindenwood]

Just a thought about the flexible Renogy Panels. The reason why I like these so much is the versatility in mounting. If you mount to the roof with the rack on either side, a part of the panel will be shaded for much of the day. Even small partial shading greatly reduces the amount power generated. It also limits your ability to use both the rack and maintain output from the panel. Another option would be to mount the panel onto a cargo box, even if it was a smaller pelican type box it would elevate the panel from potential shading while still maintaining some of the utility of the roof rack.

something like this
http://www.badgertrek.com/sportsmobile/PanelsInstall.jpg

Interesting thought on the cargo box! However, I have no intention or plans to ever store cargo on the roof. I already have a permanent rear swing-out tray, and am getting ready to build version 2.0 that is slightly larger and detatches.

I did consider removing the rack, or portions of it, to maximize sunlight and available area. However, the sides of the rack are only raised about half an inch above the surface, so it would take extreme sun angles before they become a factor. And, perhaps most importantly, the two factory top bars with some thin cables between them (essentially "limb risers") should offer a great deal of protection for the panel from hanging tree branches.

Of course, the data will be verified. If I observe a major increase in output after removing the top bars, and I was already putting out less than I need, I will absolutely reconsider. But, as it stands, on everage days I am already only expecting a peak of perhaps 80-100w due to the flat mounting, and if I only lose another 10% with the cross bars I would be willing to accept that. Really, all I am really powering is my fridge, which uses about 3Ah during peak heat of the day. My commute is 9 miq each way, and if I only do that wit no supplemental charging, this will kill my 2nd battery in about 24 hours. If I can average even 40w for 8 hours a day, that is 27Ah (half my house battery's capacity) and should be enough power to supplement the alternator even with only short trips.

But, thank you very much for the thought! I hadnt considered it could be that significant, so I will definitely look into it when I get there!

 

[CWccw]

I should have been more direct with my question, where have others ran their power wires from the panel to the charge controller? Looking to avoid drilling holes in the roof. A cable and loom run externally looks like crap unless I have a flux capacitor.

 

[Welding Goats]

I didn’t see that this was mentioned in the thread...

Why not draw power to the fridge from the alternator/battery while driving and use portable panels when you stop to camp?

I realize that you would have to manually set out the panels, but wouldn’t that give you much more leeway to park where you want and move the panels to “chase the sun”? Depending on cable length and all that goes with that.

 

[Lindenwood]

I didn’t see that this was mentioned in the thread...

Why not draw power to the fridge from the alternator/battery while driving and use portable panels when you stop to camp?

I realize that you would have to manually set out the panels, but wouldn’t that give you much more leeway to park where you want and move the panels to “chase the sun”? Depending on cable length and all that goes with that.

Mostly it is just the size and convenience. Even if the above 160w panel averaged half efficiency, due to being flat mounted, an 80w solar panel is still a relatively bulky piece of equipment. And, for me, it is about maximizing energy collection while daily driving; obviously, I'm not going to be setting up panels in the marking lot every day haha.

 

[Lindenwood]

I should have been more direct with my question, where have others ran their power wires from the panel to the charge controller? Looking to avoid drilling holes in the roof. A cable and loom run externally looks like crap unless I have a flux capacitor.

If you can route them out the back of the panel, I'd imagine you could tuck them down along the cargo hatch and enter the cabin through the tail light. But, whem I eventually do this I expect to go straight through the roof with one of those small bulkheads.

 

[derpiful]

I should have been more direct with my question, where have others ran their power wires from the panel to the charge controller? Looking to avoid drilling holes in the roof. A cable and loom run externally looks like crap unless I have a flux capacitor.

Here's the two options I always recommend when running wires from the roof inside:

- Run the wire to the back and use the grommet for the hatch. The only downside is the amount of wire needed.

- Run it through one of the holes already existing under the endcaps of the stock roof tracks. Pull the little plug out, and there's a hole that goes directly into the headliner.