Anyone not get the front differential drain plug out?

[Gatafly]

I have changed out all my fluids except the front differential. I ended up breaking the hex socket trying to loosen it so I gave up. Took it in yesterday to a shop (not a Toyota dealer) that was highly recommended for the timing belt change and also had them take care of the front differential. Got the call just now and they were not able to budge it either. It was starting just starting to strip so they stopped. I really need to get this fluid changed (95k) but am scared to take it to the dealer and have them wreck something and then tell me I need to buy a new differential. Anyone else ever experience this? I am tempted to just leave the oil in it and drive it, but I plan to keep it for many years and don't want to have an even more expensive bill in the future from not servicing it.




******UPDATE********

I was under the 4runner this after noon bringing the tranny fluid up to the proper temp so I could check the fluid level again. I had just changed all the fluid last week and wanted to run it a bit before final level check. While under there I was staring at that frozen differential drain plug and decided to try what the local Toyota 4wd specialist tech said they have to do. I gave it 4-6 whacks with a ball peen hammer and then took a chisel and placed it on the edge of the drain plug and gave it 2 good whacks and bingo, the plug twisted loose. I am now good to go. Thanks for some words of wisdom and a little push to go beyond what felt right.

 

[mckbrew]

If you take it to a reputable mechanic and they break it to the point that it causes more damage they are liable, not you.

 

[Ducman]

Drain

I think its a 10mm if I recall... a 3/8s is really close but just a hair to big and not a snug fit so make sure they are not trying to use that.

I used a big hex key because it seems you can get good leverage without any slop that a socket can sometimes introduce.

I would try a large hex key and a hammer, sometimes a few quick taps can be way more effective at breaking it loose than leaning on it. Mine was very snug but came out with no damage to the threads using a hex key.

 

[-06T4R-]

I have changed out all my fluids except the front differential. I ended up breaking the hex socket trying to loosen it so I gave up. Took it in yesterday to a shop (not a Toyota dealer) that was highly recommended for the timing belt change and also had them take care of the front differential. Got the call just now and they were not able to budge it either. It was starting just starting to strip so they stopped. I really need to get this fluid changed (95k) but am scared to take it to the dealer and have them wreck something and then tell me I need to buy a new differential. Anyone else ever experience this? I am tempted to just leave the oil in it and drive it, but I plan to keep it for many years and don't want to have an even more expensive bill in the future from not servicing it.

Can you just pump the old oil out from the fill plug, and find a way to make sure the drain plug is sealed?

 

[CXS]

Mine was a b!tch to get off! Finally welded a large nut to it and a 5ft breaker bar. With enough perseverance you can get it off.

 

[Levinz11]

I can't get mine off either. It's totally mangled now. :wtf:

 

[Jeff T]

Ya gotta eats your spinach!!

 

[Gatafly]

It was bugging me enough that I called the Toyota dealer closest to me (a big one also) and asked if I could talk with their 4wd specialist. They said sure as long as I was willing to sit on hold for a bit. I asked if he has come across this before and he said "yes. . . . several times". I am going to have them do it (not cheap, about $60-$80). He said what you need to do is take a hammer and chisel. . . . . . air chisel is best and hit it from the side on that small edge that sticks out to work it loose and start backing it out. It is the only way that they can get them loose every time when they are froze in there. Sounds to me like Toyota should have some anti seize on those threads. I am glad to know it can be done without possibly wrecking the differential.

 

[4RunnerFan]

I had both diffs done by mechanic at 15k (tow a boat during summer), but decided to do the job myself at 30k. Same problem. Took it back to mechanic and asked him to get it loose. He had a 10mm hex head where the angled edges were filed off (so the points were now sharp) and used a hammer to gently pound it into place. Even so, I watched him put almost his entire weight against the wrench as he stood under the lift.

I took it home, used my Dremel tool to file off the edges of my 10mm hex bit, and finished the job being sure not to tighten the plug beyond specs (using a micro torque wrench). Can only hope it won't be the same PITA next time.

 

[matthewy03]

I just did mine this last weekend. i did the others about a month ago, but i was stripping the front drain just like you. I ended up taking it to a friends house and we welded the bolt on, then it wasn't too hard to get it off. mine was to the point where we had to weld it on, it was pretty stripped.

make sure if you do this you get a new one at the dealer. they had to order me one that took a few days.

 

[toyotatech84]

one thing we did to help those plugs come out was presoak them in pb blaster or rust penetrate and then with the round end of a ball peen hammer give the plugs a good whack or 4, i know you couldnt get a straight heads on hit with the angle of the plugs but i've never had to weld a bolt on one to get out.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

one thing we did to help those plugs come out was presoak them in pb blaster or rust penetrate and then with the round end of a ball peen hammer give the plugs a good whack or 4, i know you couldnt get a straight heads on hit with the angle of the plugs but i've never had to weld a bolt on one to get out.

That's not only a good suggestion but common practice on most any plug for our dealership. Another thing to note is that someone mentioned grinding down the Hex-Key so that it is a flat edge with no chamfer, this is also something a lot of techs keep in their toolboxes for doing differential plugs.

 

[DC runner]

PB Blaster, a hammer and my trusty craftsman rusty bolt out set has never failed to get a bolt off.


I don't use the bolt out on small bolts that might sheer, as it can cause that. Example: Bolts holding the gas tank armor on. Lost a few that way, but DID get them off.

But on large bolts, like the DIFF; it works like a charm.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...o=1&blockType=G1&prdNo=1&i_cntr=1314891162796

This has gotten a lot of use. Always get them off.

 

[ajonesnv]

A lot of differentials dont have drain plugs, I had to pump out the old in my old truck, so worst case scenario you could just pump it out. Especially if the fluid is that bad you cannot wait.

 

[SGTfencekutter]

Couldn't get mine off either, so I had to pump it out. I had a 30+" breaker bar, but with the wheels on the ground, I just didn't have enough room to make use of it.

 

[4-Ripcord]

one thing we did to help those plugs come out was presoak them in pb blaster or rust penetrate and then with the round end of a ball peen hammer give the plugs a good whack or 4, i know you couldnt get a straight heads on hit with the angle of the plugs but i've never had to weld a bolt on one to get out.

I know mine is not a 4th gen, but its the same diff basically. This above is what did after I started to strip the bolt with a 10mm hex key. Popped right out after those few hits with the ball peen.

 

[jacal]

When I first took mine off (ages ago now) I stripped it as well. I was lucky enough and able to use vice grips to get it to move.


JG

 

[the dutch man]

I have the same problem on my 03. I just undo the fill plug and pump out as much as I can. Then refill. No sense in messing with a frozen bolt and doing damage to the differential housing should it be really frozen. I have heard others having good luck buy welding on a nut and doing it that way too. Good luck with it!

 

[natevans65]

I know it's overkill, but I use a new drain plug and washer every time I change mine. $9 or so from Toyotaautozone.com but it beats stripping it, hammering etc each time you go t change it.

 

[kobresia]

I have yet to come across any that haven't loosened when I sprayed diesel fuel around the plug or bolt threads and left to soak & penetrate for a few hours or overnight, sometimes with repeated applications. I have never found a commercial penetrating oil that works anywhere near as well as fuel.