Anyone running the Tru-Cool 4589? What temps do you see?

jross20

New member
Ordered the Tru-Cool 4589 as part of my refresh for my new to me 4runner. Basically wanting to keep the ATF in a good range and to make the pink milkshake nightmare a non-issue.
I've been worried about her running too cool if the cooler is too beastly... What kind of temps do you all see?

Does the LPD thing keep things from getting too cool?
:flamethrwoer2:
 
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One of those has been on the 97 Puppy hauler for around 3 years now. Back then I bypassed the rad. It now has a new rad and if I wouldn’t be divorcing her I’d hook up the trans cooler in series with the rad trans cooler.

Too hot or too cold was never a problem for her and my driving habits.

I would have bought one to install on my 97 But I got a cooler slightly smaller from a truck in the junkyard. It’s in series with the rad cooler. Plumbed after the rad.


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Last edited:
Ordered the Tru-Cool 4589 as part of my refresh for my new to me 4runner. Basically wanting to keep the ATF in a good range and to make the pink milkshake nightmare a non-issue.
I've been worried about her running too cool if the cooler is too beastly... What kind of temps do you all see?

Does the LPD thing keep things from getting too cool?
:flamethrwoer2:

If Georgia winters are anything like California winters, being too cool will not ever be an issue. I have the highest capacity cooler you can get with rubber lines and it warms up to temp in about 2-3 minutes of driving in the winter.
 
If Georgia winters are anything like California winters, being too cool will not ever be an issue. I have the highest capacity cooler you can get with rubber lines and it warms up to temp in about 2-3 minutes of driving in the winter.



What BTU or GVRW cooler do you have? That TrueCool cooler is big and thick. I had to relocate the passenger side horn to clear it.

If I had my way I’d figure out how to mount the shell and tube trans cooler from a 12v Cummins and use the engine oil cooler coolant line to supply it with antifreeze. If I ever find one on flee bay for a reasonable price I really feel like trying to mount it on the frame somewhere and seeing how it preforms. The 12v Cummins doesn’t have a cooler for the trans in the radiator. It’s located under the exhaust manifold and turbo and is darn near the length of the engine.


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If Georgia winters are anything like California winters, being too cool will not ever be an issue. I have the highest capacity cooler you can get with rubber lines and it warms up to temp in about 2-3 minutes of driving in the winter.

Okay cool, I just hope it will work out for me in my area. What would I need to do in cold climates?

What BTU or GVRW cooler do you have? That TrueCool cooler is big and thick. I had to relocate the passenger side horn to clear it.

If I had my way I’d figure out how to mount the shell and tube trans cooler from a 12v Cummins and use the engine oil cooler coolant line to supply it with antifreeze. If I ever find one on flee bay for a reasonable price I really feel like trying to mount it on the frame somewhere and seeing how it preforms. The 12v Cummins doesn’t have a cooler for the trans in the radiator. It’s located under the exhaust manifold and turbo and is darn near the length of the engine.


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Say what? Also... Do you have a photo of the placement?
 
Okay cool, I just hope it will work out for me in my area. What would I need to do in cold climates?







Say what? Also... Do you have a photo of the placement?



Look in my 97 limited puppy hauler thread. I’m pretty sure I documented it. I used the mounting method through the condenser core.

I bumped it to the top. It’s In Number 31.


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Last edited:
Here is the mounting location I used.
6e445b926d578a359446e08c3851acaf.jpg
35c69d332e1476ff8068909247cf41d7.jpg



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Here is the mounting location I used.
6e445b926d578a359446e08c3851acaf.jpg
35c69d332e1476ff8068909247cf41d7.jpg



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Wow that looks like it was meant to be there!
:biggrin2:

So you say you had to move a horn? I plan on swapping my horn out for something that doesn't sound like a pathetic one so I could do both at the same time.
 
I had to space out the horn an inch or so to clear the cooler. It barely fits in that location.

I had plastic mesh sleeves that were from some hoses on my old 04 Grand Cherokee and slipped them over the hoses where I ran them through the rad support.


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What BTU or GVRW cooler do you have? That TrueCool cooler is big and thick. I had to relocate the passenger side horn to clear it.

If I had my way I’d figure out how to mount the shell and tube trans cooler from a 12v Cummins and use the engine oil cooler coolant line to supply it with antifreeze. If I ever find one on flee bay for a reasonable price I really feel like trying to mount it on the frame somewhere and seeing how it preforms. The 12v Cummins doesn’t have a cooler for the trans in the radiator. It’s located under the exhaust manifold and turbo and is darn near the length of the engine.


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I have the Tru Cool 4490 which has a BTU rating of 20,000. I couldn't find a way to fit the 1 1/2 inch thick coolers so this is the largest capacity 3/4 in one on the market that I'm aware of.

The previous owner had to replace the transmission due to excess heat killing it. It is supercharged though and he ran it pretty hard.
 
I'm running the B&M 70266, a little over 20k BTU. It's the size of a sheet of paper (8x11) and 1.5" thick.

S0csoKO.jpg


I'll eventually install this fan, likely only to be used in low speed, high demand situations.

yk4laWr.jpg
 
I have tried running in series, just with the cooler and now I'm running with a stand alone therm. this is by far the best setup I have tried. Trans comes up quickly to 170 deg and stays about at that temp. 180 in stop and go traffic. very happy with this setup.

isolated cooler not hooked up to the radiator and a thermostatic value will give you the best control over the fluid temps.


I did a little potato vid of my setup here

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3297726-post145.html
 
I have tried running in series, just with the cooler and now I'm running with a stand alone therm. this is by far the best setup I have tried. Trans comes up quickly to 170 deg and stays about at that temp. 180 in stop and go traffic. very happy with this setup.

isolated cooler not hooked up to the radiator and a thermostatic value will give you the best control over the fluid temps.


I did a little potato vid of my setup here

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3297726-post145.html

Apologies if I missed it in your build, but what t-stat valve did you use, and is it adjustable (open temp)?

Stand-alone here also, and so far, glad I did...
 
This is the shell and tube trans cooler for a 94-98 12v Cummins. It’s got antifreeze on one side of the tubes (through the tubes) and trans fluid on the other side (outside the tubes.
d6cf7db9036020050c8b0ef0b9856e71.jpg



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Apologies if I missed it in your build, but what t-stat valve did you use, and is it adjustable (open temp)?

Stand-alone here also, and so far, glad I did...

Derale Fluid Control Thermostats 13011

Fluid Control Thermostats : 3/8" NPT Fluid Control Thermostat Kit

Bypasses cooler until fluid temperature reaches 180°F
Can be rotated 180° to switch flow direction
Flows up to 20 gallons per minute
Rated up to 200 psi

you can see it right here
YouTube

it's kind of beefy but I found a good spot to hide it.
 
This is the shell and tube trans cooler for a 94-98 12v Cummins. It’s got antifreeze on one side of the tubes (through the tubes) and trans fluid on the other side (outside the tubes.
d6cf7db9036020050c8b0ef0b9856e71.jpg



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but the point of keeping the engine coolant and trans fluid separate is so you can avoid pink milk shake and have independent control over cooling rates.
 
but the point of keeping the engine coolant and trans fluid separate is so you can avoid pink milk shake and have independent control over cooling rates.



This is not a cooler with aluminum parts. It will not fail and mix the fluids. I get what you mean about the antifreeze adding unnecessary heat into the ATF however it’s on the cold side of the rad and withmy driving habits my trans pan temps are not above 160. I don’t wheel with mine.


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Derale Fluid Control Thermostats 13011

Fluid Control Thermostats : 3/8" NPT Fluid Control Thermostat Kit

Bypasses cooler until fluid temperature reaches 180°F
Can be rotated 180° to switch flow direction
Flows up to 20 gallons per minute
Rated up to 200 psi

you can see it right here
YouTube

it's kind of beefy but I found a good spot to hide it.

Thanks sd. That one in particular caught my eye some time back. If you wanted to install an auxiliary fan and have it thermostatically triggered, like let's say at 200F, how would you do that with your current set-up? Maybe split the return and add one of these...

411a-flIfYL.jpg


https://smile.amazon.com/American-V...t+Switch&qid=1560809343&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

Member [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] introduced this to me a while ago, and I'm still thinking about it, or something like it...

61NVnN8UKoL._SL1500_.jpg


Earls 2077ERL Earl's Billet Remote Oil Filter Mount
 
Thanks sd. That one in particular caught my eye some time back. If you wanted to install an auxiliary fan and have it thermostatically triggered, like let's say at 200F, how would you do that with your current set-up? Maybe split the return and add one of these...

411a-flIfYL.jpg


https://smile.amazon.com/American-V...t+Switch&qid=1560809343&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

Member [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] introduced this to me a while ago, and I'm still thinking about it, or something like it...

61NVnN8UKoL._SL1500_.jpg


Earls 2077ERL Earl's Billet Remote Oil Filter Mount

That [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] is trouble :)


yea sure you could add a trigger into the runs someplace for sure. it's a good idea and maybe at some point I will do it.

setup #1 with just using the hayden external cooler temps would run 130-140
setup #2 in series with the radiator temps would run 140-150

with this setup I run 165-185

IMO the A340F shift and runs the smoothest at 170-180 deg

when my temps were low I noticed clunky shifting. I have just come to believe running at the higher temps(170-180) is actually a good thing. sure you will have to change the ATF more often but... it's ok. I used to think it was too hot but I have come around.

that hayden cooler specs... way more cooling than I needed.
Class "A" motor homes, large travel trailers, 5th wheel trailers
GVWR up to 30,000 pounds, towing up to 10,000 pounds

disclaimer I don't tow with my rig so I might feel differently if I did. towing makes a lot of heat. I feel like I have the capacity to handle the spikes in temps and still keep the temp in range so the ATF is doing it's job and keeping the trans lubed up.

I was never really happy with my external cooler until now.
 
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Trouble is as trouble does [emoji851]

For what it's worth, the B&M thermostaticly controlled oil cooler I put on my Chevy pickup has a switch that turns on the dedicated cooling fan at 175° via a ground interrupt switch. I wired it to an ignition-switched relay with a full-time battery hot.

You could easily accomplish the same thing installing that thermostatic plug in that external filter thingies you claim I told you about.

NB
I ended up replacing the radiator on that truck with an internal oil cooler because the transmission simply ran too hot with an air cooler only. Your mileage may vary

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