Anyone using 01-04 Taco front swaybar?

[jkeith.w]

While redoing my front end, I'm considering ways to correct the poor endlink design of the front swaybar... and ran across a tab kit that SS sells to convert to an 01-04 Taco swaybar for the improved range of motion.

Is anyone using the Taco bar? Is it the same diameter as the 3rd gen?

 

[Black798]

The third gen bar is 26mm in diameter. I have no idea what the Tacoma bar is but I would bet it's the same size.
My question is, since the Tacoma bar is getting the larger range of motion by allowing the endlink to move more freely, why not just make a set of endlinks for the stock bar that do that? That's essentially what I did, they disconnect easily when I want them too, and when they are connected I noticed no increase in body roll but can easily stuff either front tire all the way to the bump stop and still have the max down travel that the limit straps allow. And it only cost like 50 dollars for the heims
IMG_1192 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr

 

[Tyler James Inc]

I've been wanting to do the same thing, Keith.
I assumed the 01-04 TRD FSB was smaller, but I've never checked. I'm sure it would be easy enough to find out though. BRB
Yeah, not so easy to find info. Most parts say 27mm, Energy lists the 26 and 27 as fitting that application, and "Rare Parts" on Amazon says the 24mm fit. Sweet.

 

[Septimius]

The third gen bar is 26mm in diameter. I have no idea what the Tacoma bar is but I would bet it's the same size.
My question is, since the Tacoma bar is getting the larger range of motion by allowing the endlink to move more freely, why not just make a set of endlinks for the stock bar that do that? That's essentially what I did, they disconnect easily when I want them too, and when they are connected I noticed no increase in body roll but can easily stuff either front tire all the way to the bump stop and still have the max down travel that the limit straps allow. And it only cost like 50 dollars for the heims

that's awesome, any chance you have a write up on it?

 

[Black798]

[MENTION=169609]Septimius[/MENTION] there are a few more pictures of them on page 4 of my build thread. Pretty simple design though. I used 3/8 heims and just added a bolt on stud to the a arm, similar to the jks disconnects. Pull the cotterpin on the a arm, fold the links up against the bar and secure the bar up and it's disconnected. I can disconnect or reconnect in about 3 mins, closer to 8 if I have to fight with uneven ground.
[MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] and [MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION] it sounds like they used both 26 and 27mm bars in the tacomas. I would guess based off of Steve's parts list on his website that they use a 26mm bar which is the same as the 4runner

 

[jkeith.w]

[MENTION=169609]Septimius[/MENTION] I used 3/8 heims and just added a bolt on stud to the a arm, similar to the jks disconnects. Pull the cotterpin on the a arm, fold the links up against the bar and secure the bar up and it's disconnected.

is that a hood pin, essentially, at the a-arm?

 

[theesotericone]

I took my front sway bar completely off today. After about 50 miles of driving I don't notice a difference. So it's staying off. lol

 

[kolelt]

I took my front sway bar completely off today. After about 50 miles of driving I don't notice a difference. So it's staying off. lol

Did you take it on a highway? About 60-70 mph ? And try switching lanes on a shitty road.

 

[theesotericone]

Did you take it on a highway? About 60-70 mph ? And try switching lanes on a shitty road.

Highway up to 85 for 30 miles. hauled ass down my favorite dirt, and tight turns on city streets. It drives fine and doesn't feel any more prone to getting out of control than with the bar on.

 

[turbo8]

As long as you have stiffer springs you should be fine without a front sway bar. Stock springs you will be rocking like a boat.

 

[JayRolla]

Highway up to 85 for 30 miles. hauled ass down my favorite dirt, and tight turns on city streets. It drives fine and doesn't feel any more prone to getting out of control than with the bar on.

I felt the same way. But after some time my front coils feel like they loosened up and front end became way less stable. Also not connected means less weight on the wheel that droops causing less traction and more tire spin.

Reconnecting sway bars was the best thing I've done to my rig.

 

[endgame56]

The third gen bar is 26mm in diameter. I have no idea what the Tacoma bar is but I would bet it's the same size.
My question is, since the Tacoma bar is getting the larger range of motion by allowing the endlink to move more freely, why not just make a set of endlinks for the stock bar that do that? That's essentially what I did, they disconnect easily when I want them too, and when they are connected I noticed no increase in body roll but can easily stuff either front tire all the way to the bump stop and still have the max down travel that the limit straps allow. And it only cost like 50 dollars for the heims

Any chance you have a parts list for those discos? The heim joints should be easy enough to find, but I'm not too sure what to look for for the actual bar part of it.

...On my 3rd replacement end link in the past two years. You'd think I'd learn by now to take them off ahead of time.

 

[AssBurns]

I felt the same way. But after some time my front coils feel like they loosened up and front end became way less stable. Also not connected means less weight on the wheel in the air, less traction and more tire spin.

Not sure I understand your theory. If one tire is off the ground, the sway bar will want to pull the wheel in the direction to what the other wheel is doing. Effectively the opposite of what you are saying.

 

[JayRolla]

Not sure I understand your theory. If one tire is off the ground, the sway bar will want to pull the wheel in the direction to what the other wheel is doing. Effectively the opposite of what you are saying.

I might have explained it backwards, the tire drooping or hanging (in the air as I expained it before) will have no weight and no traction when sway bar is disconnected. I have found leaving one side connected does give better traction on the tire thats drooping. Both tires will keep weight when connected.

But I also have had better experience completely disconnected as no up travel or droop is being limited from the sway bar. Even with less weight on the one tire at least it touches the ground and gives you a chance to get up the obstacle with an open diff.

If the SS kit and a tacoma sway bar allows as much droop and up travel as a disconnected sway bar its going to be way superior to a disconnected or connected stock sway bar with extended links since weight is applied to both tires in all situations.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Not sure I understand your theory. Effectively the opposite of what you are saying.

Its like how I've read at least two testimonies- by members here- claiming their rig feel less tippy/more stable by only installing the panhard drop bracket. We both know that lowers RC, and makes no sense. I stopped trying to understand or educate people on certain things- specifically suspension. Facts are facts; geometry doesn't lie. That said, who am I to tell people how their rig feels/handles to them?
I'm shocked when I read two people agreeing on just about anything suspension related on here [emoji23]
For relevance- I took the sway bars off my 2nd gen, and it was scary on the road. I drive like I'm in the Gumball 3k though, so maybe it's fine for the slower/more daring drivers.

 

[Black798]

is that a hood pin, essentially, at the a-arm?

Essentially yes, It is a grade 8 bolt that i cut the head off of and drilled a hole in to allow for the retaining pin which is also grade 8. I then bolted that to where the stock link hooked up. There are about 10,000 miles on them with no issues.

 

[Black798]

Any chance you have a parts list for those discos? The heim joints should be easy enough to find, but I'm not too sure what to look for for the actual bar part of it.

...On my 3rd replacement end link in the past two years. You'd think I'd learn by now to take them off ahead of time.

I purchased the heims from qs components. The link itself is made out of some left over 3/4 x 1/8th wall tubing I had in the scrap bin and I made the brackets that are on the bar out of 1/8th inch plate. Basically all you need is 4 heims, 6 grade 8 bolts, roughly 1 ft of tubing, a couple cotter pins, and a little bit of 1"x1/8th" bar steel.

For tubing I recommend .120 wall DOM tubing for strength and Id upgrade to 1/2 inch heims just for a little more strength

 

[jkeith.w]

If the SS kit and a tacoma sway bar allows as much droop and up travel as a disconnected sway bar its going to be way superior to a disconnected or connected stock sway bar with extended links since weight is applied to both tires in all situations.

I can see where it would help load the compressed side of the suspension - it is carrying the weight of both sides when linked (to an extent) - arguably applying more force against the ground on the loaded wheel...?

Worth mulling over...

 

[AssBurns]

I can see where it would help load the compressed side of the suspension - it is carrying the weight of both sides when linked (to an extent) - arguably applying more force against the ground on the loaded wheel...?



Worth mulling over...

That might help actually. As long as you have a locker. If not it would hinder you even more.

 

[jkeith.w]

That might help actually. As long as you have a locker. If not it would hinder you even more.

yeah, you're right (both scenarios)