ARB505 EZ-deflator and 2016 TE stock rims

I got myself an ARB505 EZ-deflator for airing down. I tried it today on my TE stock wheels. While I can screw it onto the valve stem correctly, the slide valve contact with the wheel in such way that the valve never close correctly. When the valve core is removed, air always escape and the reading on the gauge is incorrect since the air pressure never builds up.

What am I doing wrong?
 
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I have Stauns and ARB's deflator. What I use 99.9% of the time is a valve core tool to simply remove the valve cores. It's faster, easier, and doesn't wear out the threads on the TPMS valves.

Only time I use the Stauns or ARB is when the bugs are bad (Stauns) or snow wheeling (ARB), as the cores are difficult to handle with frozen hands or gloves, and the valve cores fall right through snow and are near impossible to find. I carry a box of spare cores with the rest of my tire repair kit.

My routine is remove rear valve core, wait 15 seconds, remove front core, return to rear tire with gauge and check pressure every few seconds until I'm at the pressure I want, reinstall rear core, then move back to the front. Rinse and repeat for the other side.
 
That is a simple way of doing it, but you have to be really timed well to make sure pressure in all the wheels are similar.

Do you have a Trail Edition?
If so, when using the ARB, do you encounter the same problem as I do?

SR5 probably don't have this problem since it is the location of the valve on the rim that is not good on TE stock wheels.
 
That is a simple way of doing it, but you have to be really timed well to make sure pressure in all the wheels are similar.

Do you have a Trail Edition?
If so, when using the ARB, do you encounter the same problem as I do?

SR5 probably don't have this problem since it is the location of the valve on the rim that is not good on TE stock wheels.

I have a trail with the ARB deflator. I can't say that I have ever had a problem with it sealing in the non-deflate position.
 
That is a simple way of doing it, but you have to be really timed well to make sure pressure in all the wheels are similar.

Do you have a Trail Edition?
If so, when using the ARB, do you encounter the same problem as I do?

SR5 probably don't have this problem since it is the location of the valve on the rim that is not good on TE stock wheels.

I do it at least a half dozen times a week, sometimes a lot more. If you only do 1 tire at a time it is easier, and still faster than the ARB deflator.

Yes, but it is a 2011 so the wheels were different, which I replaced with aftermarket wheels when it was new, anyway. I haven't looked at the new TE wheels, but I can see where the fairly bulky brass ARB deflator could run into interference problems depending on the angle of the valve stem. Stauns are a bit narrower, but still could be an issue.
 
Never had a problem with the arb deflator on any wheels. can't imagine how it could interfere... but I guess anything is possible. Practice on another car to make sure you know how to use it. I can't even describe how it works, but it is very simple to use. Took me a few minutes to figure it out the first time...
 
Never had a problem with the arb deflator on any wheels. can't imagine how it could interfere... but I guess anything is possible. Practice on another car to make sure you know how to use it. I can't even describe how it works, but it is very simple to use. Took me a few minutes to figure it out the first time...

I looked carefully at the instructions and the operation is really simple. After screwing on the valve stem and removing the valve, the slide valve of the deflator cannot be pushed forward enough since it contacts the wheel. Since air continues to escape, the reading on the gauge is lower. You could see why this happens on this picture, the valve is surrounded bu metal protection on each side:

00r0r_4drraj6gtxx_600x450-jpg.246105
 
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