AssBurns 2000 Limited Build Thread
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AssBurns
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Over the weekend we went up to Big Bear to cruise around Burns Canyon area for the day and then headed over to Pioneertown to a little country western saloon for dinner called Pappy and Harriet’s. It was supposed to be an easy 2wd friendly run since we have a beginner off-roader in our group and I had my 3 week old son. Well that didn’t quite go as planned when we came up to Heartbreak Ridge and Pontiac Sluice trails. I got designated as the leader of the group and since I never been on those trails before, I decided “**** it! Let’s check it out!”. The newbie did really well and my son didn’t seem bothered. [emoji1303] These trails are pretty cool. We went down Heartbreak Ridge which is the easier direction it looks like. I’d like to check it out again going up next time. Neither of these trails are very difficult but they have a “Difficult” rating. Turned out to be a really fun and relaxing day with a good group of people. Dinner was great as well. I’d definitely recommend checking Pioneertown out. Pappy and Harriet’s has some good country western bands play on the weekends, so that is something cool to check out as well.
The rolled Pontiac that the trail got named after.
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The rolled Pontiac that the trail got named after.
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AssBurns
New member
So a few of you guys already know I’ve been working on doing the F-150 gas tank swap. It’s finally finished, well 98% finished. Still need to button up a couple minor things but overall, it’s done. I’m going to do a more detailed write up in another thread so my build thread doesn’t get sidetracked and all the info can stay in one spot rather than scattered here. I’ll post a link here when I write it up.
Here is the link to the write up on the tank swap. Fuel Tank Relocation Thread Post #90-92
The reason for the swap was mostly for belly clearance since I constantly smashed my stock tank. Instead of just building a skid, might as well eliminate the problem. Another big thing that I liked about the relocation was to make room for an eventual 4-link upgrade. The tank being in the rear will hopefully settle the rear suspension a little more evenly and lower the ride height a little too. Also no more drive shaft contact with the tank!
So to get started I got an auxiliary (rear) fuel tank from a 1990-1996(I think) Ford F-series truck. Initially it didn’t fit between the rear crossmember and bumper because of the way I tucked my bumper up and in so much, so the only option was to cut the bumper back. Didn’t like that option, but wasn’t that big of a deal. Also had to cut the spare tire mount crossmember to make overhead clearance.
Next I started working on mounting the tank.
Once the tank was mounted it was time to work on a skid plate.
Skid plate done with a fresh coat of primer and paint.
Then came the wiring and plumbing. This was by far my least favorite part of the whole thing because I couldn’t just “make” what I needed to make it work. I had to buy a few different size fuel lines and buy fittings to reduce the fuel line to the Toyota factory size. This meant multiple trips to the hardware store. Also fuel injection hose is much more expensive than I thought. Measure twice!
Some finished shots.
Lost a little bit of clearance here but not much.
So much room for activities!
Overall this project took much longer than I initially expected but hopefully it will be worth it in the long run. For anyone considering this project, I’d say think about what you are looking for in the long run and if you actually need to relocate the tank for what you use your vehicle for.
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Here is the link to the write up on the tank swap. Fuel Tank Relocation Thread Post #90-92
The reason for the swap was mostly for belly clearance since I constantly smashed my stock tank. Instead of just building a skid, might as well eliminate the problem. Another big thing that I liked about the relocation was to make room for an eventual 4-link upgrade. The tank being in the rear will hopefully settle the rear suspension a little more evenly and lower the ride height a little too. Also no more drive shaft contact with the tank!
So to get started I got an auxiliary (rear) fuel tank from a 1990-1996(I think) Ford F-series truck. Initially it didn’t fit between the rear crossmember and bumper because of the way I tucked my bumper up and in so much, so the only option was to cut the bumper back. Didn’t like that option, but wasn’t that big of a deal. Also had to cut the spare tire mount crossmember to make overhead clearance.
Next I started working on mounting the tank.
Once the tank was mounted it was time to work on a skid plate.
Skid plate done with a fresh coat of primer and paint.
Then came the wiring and plumbing. This was by far my least favorite part of the whole thing because I couldn’t just “make” what I needed to make it work. I had to buy a few different size fuel lines and buy fittings to reduce the fuel line to the Toyota factory size. This meant multiple trips to the hardware store. Also fuel injection hose is much more expensive than I thought. Measure twice!
Some finished shots.
Lost a little bit of clearance here but not much.
So much room for activities!
Overall this project took much longer than I initially expected but hopefully it will be worth it in the long run. For anyone considering this project, I’d say think about what you are looking for in the long run and if you actually need to relocate the tank for what you use your vehicle for.
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AssBurns
New member
Took a couple trips up to Big Bear area over the weekend and ran a few cool trails. Initially we were supposed to camp and just hit all the easy trails and explore the mountain some more. Unfortunately there were high chances of thunderstorms all afternoon and night, so the wife wasn’t feeling it with the babies. We were just going to go up for a day trip on Labor Day. Last minute Saturday night I got invited to go up with a Jeep ZJ group at run Dishpan Springs and Holcomb Trail. Still haven’t been able to make the main line on The Waterfall on Dishpan. Sunday was raining so the waterfall was full of mud and water. Even some guys on 39” stickies were not having an easy time. Had to take the bypass route after a few attempts. After Dishpan we ran Holcomb. I’ve been trying to take harder lines more and more but I got stuck a couple times doing that. Having a low ride height is only nice when your not rock crawling. One spot I got high centered on my t-case and had to hi-lift myself up and off the rock. Just as we were getting to the last little obstacle of Holcomb there was a Jeep with a broken truss that couldn’t drive without his axle twisting and had a broken front driveshaft because of it. We had to wait there for over three hours for that guy to finally get out of the way. Met some cool people and drank a few beers with everyone. It was a great time to be stuck, but didn’t get home till midnight though.
For Labor Day the we were supposed to just do easy trails but since some of the less capable rigs backed out, we ran Dishpan Springs again. Still didn’t make it up the main line. I need a locker up front. After Dishpan we just cruised around the fire roads up there then eventually ran half of White Mountain up to the peak. We would have done the whole thing but we ran out of time. We all had a great weekend with no major trail damage. I did smash my CB antenna mount somewhere on the trail and I think I broke my transmission mount too.
For Labor Day the we were supposed to just do easy trails but since some of the less capable rigs backed out, we ran Dishpan Springs again. Still didn’t make it up the main line. I need a locker up front. After Dishpan we just cruised around the fire roads up there then eventually ran half of White Mountain up to the peak. We would have done the whole thing but we ran out of time. We all had a great weekend with no major trail damage. I did smash my CB antenna mount somewhere on the trail and I think I broke my transmission mount too.
Black798
New member
Looks like a good time [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION].
Sounds like you might want to do what I did with my trans mount...
I swapped out the rubber block with some captive poly bushings. Made a huge difference in the amount it moves.
IMAG0580 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
IMAG0581 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
Sounds like you might want to do what I did with my trans mount...
I swapped out the rubber block with some captive poly bushings. Made a huge difference in the amount it moves.
IMAG0580 by Phoenix Black, on FlickrIMAG0581 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
AssBurns
New member
I was planning on just getting the Trail Gear Bomb Proof Mount but that is a much cheaper option. I’ll probably copy yours now. Thanks for the idea!
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theesotericone
New member
Your locked in the rear? If so, when you come up my way to wheel it stays open. Fair is fair. Unless you get up here after I get both F/R locked and geared. Then I'll keep the front open if yours isn't done yet. lol
Nice job on the tank work. I missed that post the first time around.
As far as taking harder lines goes, I already want bigger tires. Either that or the current rig stays as is and I pick up a mid 80's truck and build a beast. You know, the kind of beast that isn't a daily and you don't mind breaking it when you need to. 38's would be nice. Twin sticks. Custom axles. Then drop a 5.0L in it. That kind of rig. I need to get another job but pipe dreams are nice to have. lol
Black798
New member
4x innovations sells a set of bushings that would work perfectly. I think they are like 20 dollars shipped. It's listed on their builder parts page
AssBurns
New member
[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] Hahah I guess fair is fair. I’ll try my best to keep it unlocked. I usually lock it anytime I touch dirt and only use 4wd when needed.
Thanks for the compliments on the tank work. Still needs some fine tuning but so far it’s nice to not worry about smashing or getting hung up on the tank.
I totally get what your saying on building a wheeling only beater rig. That’ll happen down the line someday hopefully.
[MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION] I’ll look into those. Thanks!!
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Thanks for the compliments on the tank work. Still needs some fine tuning but so far it’s nice to not worry about smashing or getting hung up on the tank.
I totally get what your saying on building a wheeling only beater rig. That’ll happen down the line someday hopefully.
[MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION] I’ll look into those. Thanks!!
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AssBurns
New member
So I’ve been wanting to tune my suspension a little more since the tank swap. I’ve never really liked how stiff my current front coils are (Toytec/Eibach 620#). They are just a little too stiff and cause too much rebound in my opinion, especially since I have more weight in the rear now and not much weight up front. I love the way the rear coils perform (FJ80 8 wraps. 180# I think?). I do need to add some pressure to my rear shocks to keep up with the added rear end weight. I wish I could afford coilovers right now but it’s just not in the books at the moment. Too many trips planned and now two babies isn’t the cheapest. Until I get coilovers, I’d like to try some lighter springs up front. From what I read, the OME 880, 881, & 882 springs are 502# spring rate while my current springs are 620#. That’s quite a big difference. I’m thinking of trying the 881’s since they are supposed to provide 2-2.5” of lift with stock weight. I’m only looking for about 2” of lift anyways. I’m wondering how they compare in free height to the Toytec/Eibach coils. The 881’s are 375mm but I can’t find what Toytecs are. Does anyone know the free height of these?
I’m hoping my Tundra 5100’s provide enough compression dampening to help with lighter coils and I’m hoping the lighter coils help with the lack of rebound dampening that the 5100’s provide. If anyone has any input on other coils or just their opinion I general, feel free to chime in. I’d like to hear your thoughts on this.
I’m hoping my Tundra 5100’s provide enough compression dampening to help with lighter coils and I’m hoping the lighter coils help with the lack of rebound dampening that the 5100’s provide. If anyone has any input on other coils or just their opinion I general, feel free to chime in. I’d like to hear your thoughts on this.
theesotericone
New member
Since you opened the door. Save the money on the springs and put it in the piggy bank. Then, in time, get a front bumper. I felt the 620# Eibachs where pretty good without the bumper. A little stiff but nothing I couldn't live with. After the extra weight of my bumper/winch they are damn, damn good with the Taco Billies. Sure, there not King good, but there not King prices either.
Whatever way you go I'm sure you'll figure it out to your liking.
AssBurns
New member
[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] I already have a front bumper but eventually I’d like to get a winch for it. I always thought I’d wait for a bumper so that I didn’t have to mess with spring rates, but I didn’t notice that much of a difference with a bumper. If I can find some used 881’s then it’ll be a cheap test to see if lighter springs will help. I mostly want more rebound dampening but since I can’t adjust that with these shocks, the springs should correct it a bit.
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theesotericone
New member
[MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] Yep you do have a bumper. Serves me right for not checking the first page of your build thread before opening my mouth. lol
Winches are gonna be anywhere between 60# and 100#. Have you tried adding some weight somehow to the front to mimic that weight? I can't see there being a huge difference between you Tundra Billies and my Taco Billies. My bumper/winch combo is pushing the better part of 160# though.
Winches are gonna be anywhere between 60# and 100#. Have you tried adding some weight somehow to the front to mimic that weight? I can't see there being a huge difference between you Tundra Billies and my Taco Billies. My bumper/winch combo is pushing the better part of 160# though.
SDmtnbkr
Member
Once the tank was mounted it was time to work on a skid plate.
So epic!! ...what do you use to cut plate steel at home? I'm tying to figure out how to cut 1/4 plate for my bumper.
AssBurns
New member
Thanks! I use a Milwaukee Metal Cutting Circular Saw for longer cuts. It cuts steel like butter. Here is a video showing how fast it cuts through .250” x 2.00” DOM tubing. It’s pretty amazing how fast it cuts while still keeping the metal with a cool edge. It’s totally worth looking into if you plan to cut metal often.
https://youtu.be/QSNPKIoXwH4
[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] Maybe I’ll try strapping a 90lb bag of cement to my bumper to see how it feels. Most of the winches I’ve looked into are close to 80lbs with synthetic line. So with a 60lb bumper, I’m looking at a total front end weight of 140lbs. I’d like to find a winch that is lighter than that though, if possible.
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SDmtnbkr
Member
So that's what you used to cut the plates for the gas tank skid? I looks like it would be hard to get a really good strait line, but your skid plates look really straight. Did you setup some kind of support to slide it along for the longer cuts?
AssBurns
New member
Yeah I used it for both of my bumpers and gas tank skid. For cuts longer than like 6”, I use a guide to keep a perfectly straight edge. It’s actually pretty easy to get straight cuts but having a guide makes it much easier for a perfect edge. I use a clamping guide but a piece of angle iron with clamps would work fine too.
AssBurns
New member
Just a couple updates on some things.
Went to Calico last weekend for the So Cal Toyota Fest. It was a great event and got to meet some people from the forums which was pretty cool too. We ran the Odessa/Doran loop which was an awesome trail. My rig did great on that run. One of the other 3rd gens broke a CV axle on the main waterfall but other than that, everyone did pretty good. Can’t wait to explore that area some more.
On Sunday after the event, my wife and I decided to go to Slash X Ranch, which is a popular offroad destination near the Barstow area since it’s kind of in the middle of the desert. On the way there my truck lost all power instantly. Then I saw smoke or steam coming from the hood, so I opened the hood to find flames coming from my battery area. I grabbed a blanket and attempted to put the flames out. Then I noticed that it was the battery cables that were on fire, so I pulled the cables off the terminals and it immediately went out. Super crazy and scary when your wife and daughter are in the vehicle when it happened. Luckily my wife was super quick to react and got my daughter out very quickly. What ended up causing it was the cable was rubbing on the battery tray and eventually welded itself to it. Once everything cooled down, I wrapped all the burnt cables in electrical tape and was back on our way.
So because of this issue I am replacing all the cables. So far I already replaced the battery cable to the starter and the engine block.
A few new updates on the build.
Replaced my CB because it somehow got smashed between a rock and the body. Went to a 5’ Firestik instead of just a 4’.
Finally installed a fuel gauge for the new tank. Decided to mount it up by the map lights since this was the least obstructive spot for visibility.
Also replaced my spark plugs and cleaned my MAF sensor and throttle body. Everything was absolutely filthy! Now it runs so much better.
Also removed my 1” front diff drop. I didn’t like how the diff was touching the skid plate and I don’t run a high lift anyways.
Picked up a couple goodies from the expo this weekend and will be ordering new uniballs for my rear shocks and front limit straps from poly performance tomorrow.
Gator Jaw Soft Shackle
Currie Tire Deflating Tool
Ruff Stuff diff protection
Went to Calico last weekend for the So Cal Toyota Fest. It was a great event and got to meet some people from the forums which was pretty cool too. We ran the Odessa/Doran loop which was an awesome trail. My rig did great on that run. One of the other 3rd gens broke a CV axle on the main waterfall but other than that, everyone did pretty good. Can’t wait to explore that area some more.
On Sunday after the event, my wife and I decided to go to Slash X Ranch, which is a popular offroad destination near the Barstow area since it’s kind of in the middle of the desert. On the way there my truck lost all power instantly. Then I saw smoke or steam coming from the hood, so I opened the hood to find flames coming from my battery area. I grabbed a blanket and attempted to put the flames out. Then I noticed that it was the battery cables that were on fire, so I pulled the cables off the terminals and it immediately went out. Super crazy and scary when your wife and daughter are in the vehicle when it happened. Luckily my wife was super quick to react and got my daughter out very quickly. What ended up causing it was the cable was rubbing on the battery tray and eventually welded itself to it. Once everything cooled down, I wrapped all the burnt cables in electrical tape and was back on our way.
So because of this issue I am replacing all the cables. So far I already replaced the battery cable to the starter and the engine block.
A few new updates on the build.
Replaced my CB because it somehow got smashed between a rock and the body. Went to a 5’ Firestik instead of just a 4’.
Finally installed a fuel gauge for the new tank. Decided to mount it up by the map lights since this was the least obstructive spot for visibility.
Also replaced my spark plugs and cleaned my MAF sensor and throttle body. Everything was absolutely filthy! Now it runs so much better.
Also removed my 1” front diff drop. I didn’t like how the diff was touching the skid plate and I don’t run a high lift anyways.
Picked up a couple goodies from the expo this weekend and will be ordering new uniballs for my rear shocks and front limit straps from poly performance tomorrow.
Gator Jaw Soft Shackle
Currie Tire Deflating Tool
Ruff Stuff diff protection
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