ATF Exchange (using the cooling line)
- Thread starter 46runner
- Start date
Yep, it is very easy.
I also am not a fan of letting the transmission pump out 2 quarts before putting any back in. Probably will not harm anything, its just a personal feeling. When I did mine I let the transmission pump out the old fluid while I also poured fluid back into the transmission from the return line. It pumps out slow enough that you can gauge it pretty well to make it an even exchange. When the transmission pumps out nothing but bright red and clean fluid you stop the engine and stop pouring back in. Reconnect the lines and remove fluid level check plug to drain off any excess fluid or to let you know if you need to add any. take it for a drive to warm up and check transmission temperature. I used a thermal scanner on the pan since the temp range is broad enough the thermal scanner will work perfectly. remove check plug again to drain off excess fluid. I think I ended up draining about 1/2 qt total of excess fluid. That was 55k miles ago and she is doing great. I plan on doing it again next year probably.
bob3dsf
New member
Correct. It's a temp check mode since there is no dedicated dash gauge and we, with the "sealed" trannies, don't have a dipstick with hot and cold markings.
@NielC - I'd be curious how the Valvoline Maxlife is working (I realize it is labeled as compatible with the WS standard). I know others have used it. I know there is a video of Eric the Car Guy using it on a 04 Runner. When I changed my fluid I just bought a case of WS ATF from the dealer for a decent price. But I don't mind saving a few more $ with the Valvoline. I think my WS worked out to be around $8/qt.
I also did successive drain and fills for my fluid flush. I'd have to go count my leftover ATF bottles to try and remember how many drain/fills I did but I think I did 3 rounds. 1. I didn't want to run low on fluid trying to get as many rotations as possible. I too got about 3.5 qts on a drain ( I also jacked up the nose to get a smidge more out) 2. BY my 3rd drain and fill my fluid was looking much better. A nice red color (but not quite brand new red). I felt it was sufficient. I was having no issues prior, I just new I was a little overdue and had to get it done.
FIY:
I dropped my pan and changed my gasket but if you are only performing this per the interval, and not have any shifting issues, I'd say dropping the pan isn't necessary. Also I don't think changing the filter is really needed (although it is pretty easy). I know blackworks had stated that there is no maint. interval listed for the filter, so officially it's not a regular maint. step to be performed. Putting the pan back on wasn't hard, but the whole time I was nervous that I'd find a leak once all was said and done (and then wish I had left it alone). BUT, it went fine. I'd say make SURE you don't over tighten those bolts. They don't take much torque at all. I'm sure you're SOL if you strip/snap one
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I just bought a case of the Toyota Type-IV ATV fluid from the dealer since that's what's called for in my truck. The 'standard' prices was a little more than $8 per quart. They have a lower price that they charge to shops and that was only $6.20 a quart which is what they gave it to me for. I buy a lot of odd little things from them that I can't get anywhere else so they tend to give me price breaks when possible.
This is only an FYI. I don't know if the Toyota stuff is any better than other stuff but I thought that the price was fair enough that I didn't go around looking for alternatives.
This is only an FYI. I don't know if the Toyota stuff is any better than other stuff but I thought that the price was fair enough that I didn't go around looking for alternatives.
bob3dsf
New member
Same for me. Since I usually go to the same parts dept for my spark plugs, oil filter, etc... all the OEM stuff, I get a discounted price.
The maxlife has worked great. Shifts perfectly. The process is inherently wasteful though. You waste fluid in the hoses pumping it in and when you overfill it to check the level. Originally I planned to do 4 drains over a couple of weekends. I planned to reuse the washer until the last drain and fill but retorquing the drain plug that many times with the old washer buggered up the threads so I bought a new plug and a bunch of washers. Reusing them leads to problems. I buy t he gallon jug from Walmart for like $16 and pump the entire jug in and drive it for a while then drain until it is the correct level. Its easy was you know the process.
bamma
New member
Carquest sells it cheaper.
bob3dsf
New member
The NGK's? I do also get stuff from car quest. I found the p/n cross reference for my knuckle seals and CV shaft seals when I replaced the CV axles. One of my National seals for the steering knuckle even had the toyota p/n stamped on it with the National brand stamp...
BTW: native Oregonian here.... Oregon City..
bamma
New member
The NGK's? I do also get stuff from car quest. I found the p/n cross reference for my knuckle seals and CV shaft seals when I replaced the CV axles. One of my National seals for the steering knuckle even had the toyota p/n stamped on it with the National brand stamp...
BTW: native Oregonian here.... Oregon City..
carquest has the toyota type iv fluid. Price has gone up since i purchased it last, but still only 6.19 qt. As far as plugs, etc., I always get parts from advance auto when they have the 50 off 125 coupons, which is almost every other week it seem like. great deals. I got mobil 1 syn gear oil for about 7 bucks a qt and platinum ngks for around 6 a piece iirc.
I am an Oregon transplant, but I will always be a bit Utarded (from Utah).
Fantastic write-up 46runner! Detailed pics and instructions will help many others. Thanks.
These guys below said or hinted at an optional way that might be easier and quicker too... ??????
I am a T4R newb, but do you have to have the tow package in order to do what you said? My friends 2005 does not have the tow package (that I know of) and the trans cooler lines attach to the side of the radiator; trans cooler built into the radiator. So I can do exactly what you said (without tow pkg) right?
My thoughts exactly. Why can we not interrupt the loop at the cooler; one hose goes into a large empty catch can, while the other hose is dropped into a bucket of brand new trans fluid... ? One raw hose is connected onto the cooler output, and the trans cooler return hose on the truck would have to be extended using some raw tubing in order to do this.
Each bucket would be tick-marked to allow you to see exactly how much fluid comes out -verses- how much goes in. Once engine is turned on, the trans fluid pump should do all the work for us. The trans pump should just suck-it right up. Optionally; we could use a huge (home-made?) funnel for the new fluid, allowing gravity to help on the suction side...
If lucky, after running engine for about 3 minutes, the 2 buckets would have used the same amount of fluid. IF unlucky, you would have to interrupt it or manually adjust it accordingly.
No matter how lucky or unlucky with this method, I would fully expect to make a fluid level adjustment via the overflow plug as a final check.
These guys below said or hinted at an optional way that might be easier and quicker too... ??????
I am a T4R newb, but do you have to have the tow package in order to do what you said? My friends 2005 does not have the tow package (that I know of) and the trans cooler lines attach to the side of the radiator; trans cooler built into the radiator. So I can do exactly what you said (without tow pkg) right?
My thoughts exactly. Why can we not interrupt the loop at the cooler; one hose goes into a large empty catch can, while the other hose is dropped into a bucket of brand new trans fluid... ? One raw hose is connected onto the cooler output, and the trans cooler return hose on the truck would have to be extended using some raw tubing in order to do this.
Each bucket would be tick-marked to allow you to see exactly how much fluid comes out -verses- how much goes in. Once engine is turned on, the trans fluid pump should do all the work for us. The trans pump should just suck-it right up. Optionally; we could use a huge (home-made?) funnel for the new fluid, allowing gravity to help on the suction side...
If lucky, after running engine for about 3 minutes, the 2 buckets would have used the same amount of fluid. IF unlucky, you would have to interrupt it or manually adjust it accordingly.
No matter how lucky or unlucky with this method, I would fully expect to make a fluid level adjustment via the overflow plug as a final check.
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The transmission will not suck fluid back in. I just used a funel and attached directly to the return line and poured in. Its not an exactly even exchange, but you eye ball it and you will get very close then pull check plug and add or let extra pour out. Bring to temp and recheck. I had a friend help with starting and stopping engine and start to finish was only 45 minutes. next time I do it it will probably take half as long.
You never know till ya try. There is a pump inside the trans, right? It might just work; especially if the test lines are primed (no air inside). If not, we go back to my other thought...
"Optionally; we could use a huge (home-made?) funnel for the new fluid, allowing gravity to help on the suction side..."
Using the gravity/funnel sounds better tho.
I am planing on doing this job on my friends 4R. I will hopefully get back here and post my results.
Cheers!
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I did try otherwise i would not make such a statement. The pump is on the supply side. When you tap into the lines you get the pump pumping fluid out, but since the loop is interrupted there is nothing mechanical to bring the fluid back thus a funnel and gravity. The flow back into the tranny is almost the same rate as pumping out.
Thanks for the added info Gatafly.
The OP showed the inlet and outlet hose location on the trans. Here is that pic:
When I get around to doing this job, I will likely be disconnecting one or both of these hoses at the radiator/trans cooler. Does anyone remember which hoses is which?
Trans fluid hose on the Top side of radiator = green -oil cooler outlet
-or-
Trans fluid hose on the Top side of radiator = red -oil cooler inlet
Logically (to me) seems like the red-oil cooler inlet should be the Top hose on the radiator/cooler... and the bottom one (on the radiator) would be the green -oil cooler outlet.
I can and will trace the lines from the trans to the cooler in order to answer this question, but thought I would ask the question anyway because the 4R is not here, not mine, and only see the 4R occasionally.
Thank you.
The OP showed the inlet and outlet hose location on the trans. Here is that pic:
When I get around to doing this job, I will likely be disconnecting one or both of these hoses at the radiator/trans cooler. Does anyone remember which hoses is which?
Trans fluid hose on the Top side of radiator = green -oil cooler outlet
-or-
Trans fluid hose on the Top side of radiator = red -oil cooler inlet
Logically (to me) seems like the red-oil cooler inlet should be the Top hose on the radiator/cooler... and the bottom one (on the radiator) would be the green -oil cooler outlet.
I can and will trace the lines from the trans to the cooler in order to answer this question, but thought I would ask the question anyway because the 4R is not here, not mine, and only see the 4R occasionally.
Thank you.
Thanks for the added info Gatafly.
The OP showed the inlet and outlet hose location on the trans. Here is that pic:
When I get around to doing this job, I will likely be disconnecting one or both of these hoses at the radiator/trans cooler. Does anyone remember which hoses is which?
Trans fluid hose on the Top side of radiator = green -oil cooler outlet
-or-
Trans fluid hose on the Top side of radiator = red -oil cooler inlet
Logically (to me) seems like the red-oil cooler inlet should be the Top hose on the radiator/cooler... and the bottom one (on the radiator) would be the green -oil cooler outlet.
I can and will trace the lines from the trans to the cooler in order to answer this question, but thought I would ask the question anyway because the 4R is not here, not mine, and only see the 4R occasionally.
Thank you.
Just did this on my GX(essentially 4Runner with a tow pkg) and the top (green) line is the top side of the radiator. The fluid pumped from the transmission came out of the rubber hose that attaches to the radiator. It did not come out of the radiator. Hope this makes sense and helps.
I did not disconnect the red line to refill and instead refilled through the fill plug hole.
All in all, I flushed 11 quarts and refilled the trans with 12 to make sure there was some coming out during the fluid temp check.
Some more notes:
- Initial drain was 3.25 quarts
- At 69k miles, fluid looked like used black motor oil. Actually thought for a sec I pulled the plug.
- Flushed 2 quarts at a time. I did a long 10ish count for each quart.
- I had access to a lift and snap-on scangauge/techstream so I could pull the actual trans temp in real time (no jumping wires in the OBD port)
- After my 11 quart flush/12 quart fill, initial trans temp was 93. ATF I used was room temp. Ambient temp was about 70.
-I did drive about 30 miles prior to starting and waiting about 3 hours.
- During the temp/fluid check, the overfill fluid was brand new, bright red. Therefore, you can successfully replace all your fluid with 11 quarts. -I did drive about 30 miles prior to starting and waiting about 3 hours.
- During two of my two quart flushes, I cycled through all the gears. It was quick but doable.
- I used Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient ATF which is what they recommend for WS replacement. Post flush 40 mile drive was uneventful. Seems smoother and quieter but might just be placebo. I'll be running this fluid for at least 50k miles.
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message
Member
Regarding your question above, see this thread on the additional transmission cooler installed on some 4runners: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maintenance-detailing/58013-advice-drop-pan-dealer-flush-2.html
I'm just calling it a tow package as I have the additional cooler in addition to a different receiver hitch setup/mount.
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For the sake of repeating and clarifying what you said....
Trans fluid enters the radiator on the bottom-line and the fluid exits at the top-line. Correct?
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