Audio Upgrade?

So where did this land? I just bought a 2017 trd off road with the entune system and it sucks. I want to add a sub, replace the speakers, and probably add some dynamat. How many speakers are there and what sizes? Will I need two amps(4 channel and a mono) or should I roll with a 5 channel? Was thinking about a rockford or alpine sub. I came from a jl w7 and do not need that kind of power anymore but want a nice thump. Will there be anything else needed? I am new to adding sound upgrades to a system with a nav. I don't want to change the head unit or anything like that. Thanks.
I went with Tacotunes Dual Amp Kit, ReCurve Sound Processor, and Image Dynamics speakers all around, with the exception of the subs. I have two 12" kenwoods in a sealed box -- sound? Freaking AMAZING! The plus side, their wiring harnesses are all plug-n-play --- not cutting of factory wiring is involved, much like the new contender, OEM Plus.
 
I'm very interested in upgrading the audio in my basic '13 SR5. It is the worst factory system I've heard in quite some time. In comparison, my '11 Tundra factory system sounds great. BUT, I'm also very careful in evaluating the "sound" improvements others describe. As a recording engineer, I'm very picky in the audio sounding very balanced, not really loud. Unfortunately, I hear auto systems all the time where the owner has bragged on their aftermarket system, but in actuality sounds very scooped, or an extreme emphasis on the lows and highs with no valuable quality in the entire midrange. Horrible...at least, to me. Hopefully, I'll find some great info here. :D
 
Check out my build. It was a DIY project but it sounds amazing and I still haven't added the sub yet. With the vocals in the front and rear and if you use the suggestions from the YouTube sight I suggested (adding mid bass to the doors) you'll debate even adding a sub. The Arc audio 850 watt 5 channel amp from audio intensity is legit and fits perfect under the driver or passenger front seats. I rewired the whole system which was very time consuming but worth it. I ended up having to make alterations to the rear door connections in order to run the wire through the door. If you have any questions hit me up. The sound skin from abt.com is a better option then dynamat to seal the door.

Where in SD are you? I am up in Newport Beach. Second Skin looks good - did you use the 40 sq ft pack? Found FatMat about $25 cheaper online. Why did you use a 5 channel if you didn't add a sub? And what was the point of rewiring the system? Im looking at your build now. Is there a thread for it?

Anyones opinions on Rockford vs JL system? Considering at 10w3 or 8w3 or 10/8 P2 if I went Rockford and JL door speakers. In my old Tahoe I has a 12w7 with Rockford door speakers. I don't know much about door speakers - only amps and subs
 
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I went with Tacotunes Dual Amp Kit, ReCurve Sound Processor, and Image Dynamics speakers all around, with the exception of the subs. I have two 12" kenwoods in a sealed box -- sound? Freaking AMAZING! The plus side, their wiring harnesses are all plug-n-play --- not cutting of factory wiring is involved, much like the new contender, OEM Plus.

Did you get components or coaxial?
 
I went with Tacotunes Dual Amp Kit, ReCurve Sound Processor, and Image Dynamics speakers all around, with the exception of the subs. I have two 12" kenwoods in a sealed box -- sound? Freaking AMAZING! The plus side, their wiring harnesses are all plug-n-play --- not cutting of factory wiring is involved, much like the new contender, OEM Plus.

Have any pictures of your install by chance? Thanks!
 
Did you get components or coaxial?

For the Fronts, I went with the Image Dynamics CTX65CS Component Speaker
For the Rear (including Hatch), I went with the Image Dynamics CTX65 Coaxial Speaker

At first, I had left the hatch factory speakers, but they made the whole system sound horrible. So, I would highly recommend replacing those as well.
 
Have any pictures of your install by chance? Thanks!
I should have taken some when I had the seats unbolted, but dumb me, didn't take any. I can tell you that it is a very clean install -- the wire harness does not come loomed, so I highly recommend doing that prior to running the wire, or run wrap with electrical tape every six inches or so.

The Amp Rack makes for a clean install too -- so i would recommend getting it. For the sound processor, I just bought a 6x6 piece of commercial grade velcro, and put it under the passenger seat.
 
For the Fronts, I went with the Image Dynamics CTX65CS Component Speaker
For the Rear (including Hatch), I went with the Image Dynamics CTX65 Coaxial Speaker

At first, I had left the hatch factory speakers, but they made the whole system sound horrible. So, I would highly recommend replacing those as well.

Where did you mount tweeters? Any pics?
 
Where did you mount tweeters? Any pics?
Tweeters went in factory location of current tweeters. Tacotunes includes all mounting brackets, so there are no mods needed to fit speakers in.

The one thing you'd need to add is the tweeter wire harness, since the mid-range and tweeter are wired in parallel..again, no splicing or mods needed with their harness kits - Tweeter Harness

The 2010+ Toyota 4Runner came equipped with the stock tweeters in the dashboard.

The wiring configuration and shape of the stock tweeters created a few challenges in upgrading your stock tweeters/speakers. The dashboard tweeters are wired in parallel to the front door speakers. In short, this means if you remove the stock tweeters, the front door speakers will stop working. tacotunes.com provides tweeter & speaker wiring harness adapters along with tweeter mounting adapters to help you overcome these challenges.
 
Great thread and great ideas. I have decided I'm going to do this in phases, and basically stop when I'm satisfied. Ordered JL C2-650 components for the front. I'll add the C2650x coax to the doors and hatch later, then if I still need more, the JL900/5 amp with a sub that I'll use the speaker wires to feed the high voltage inputs.

If that's still not enough, then the Recurve processor will be next, but I don't see myself going that far. I listen to primarily XM and streaming music, so a signal that compressed has limitations on how good it will sound.
 
I have to agree with placing a 3" in the dash, we're lucky to have enough room in our cars to fit one in there. I have a illusion audio c3cx point source in there and it sounds amazing and makes the sound stage much more believable with having 350hz and up in the dash with a lot less blockages between them and your ears. Here is what I'm running in my car:

pioneer avh-4200nex
Mosconi 4to6dsp
Arc audio xdiv2 1100.5
oncore 10" sub (new company from the original guys of image dynamics)
Illusion Audio C6 midbass
Illusion Audio c3cx point source
stock speakers for rear seats (i fade 95% front anyway)

here is my stack fab enclosure for the sub, looks 100% oem:

10f3vi8.jpg


2r78vnc.jpg


nice sub enclosure!
 
Great thread and great ideas. I have decided I'm going to do this in phases, and basically stop when I'm satisfied. Ordered JL C2-650 components for the front. I'll add the C2650x coax to the doors and hatch later, then if I still need more, the JL900/5 amp with a sub that I'll use the speaker wires to feed the high voltage inputs.

If that's still not enough, then the Recurve processor will be next, but I don't see myself going that far. I listen to primarily XM and streaming music, so a signal that compressed has limitations on how good it will sound.


Will you be adding a sub? If so, what sub?

Also what speakers have tweeters? I believe I will need two pairs of 6x9s(front/hatch) and two 6.5s(doors). Is this correct? What speakers are you guys running the channels to on a 5 channel amp?

Last but not least - any recommendations on an 8" or 10" sub? Not looking for super loud or anything, just a step up from the crappy stock.
 
GAsr5, I'm doing 6.5s all around, the front doors will take 6x9s, the rear doors and hatch are 6.5s. The 900/5 if I go that far, will run the front component set on the front channel, the rear doors / hatch in parallel, and the single sub channel will run the... sub.

Subs, I'm down to one of the JL Powerwedge 10" boxes (prob the 10W3) or the Microsub 10TW1. That is unless I get adventurous and try what uplusd did with a stackfab style (I'll build it myself though). Reason for the Powerwedge or Microsub would be ease of popping it out if I needed the storage space, plus they are small so it should be minimal that I had to do that.

I have use JL stuff a lot in the past, and beat the crap out of them on my boat and they just kept going, so I'm biased.
 
Great thread and great ideas. I have decided I'm going to do this in phases, and basically stop when I'm satisfied. Ordered JL C2-650 components for the front. I'll add the C2650x coax to the doors and hatch later, then if I still need more, the JL900/5 amp with a sub that I'll use the speaker wires to feed the high voltage inputs.

If that's still not enough, then the Recurve processor will be next, but I don't see myself going that far. I listen to primarily XM and streaming music, so a signal that compressed has limitations on how good it will sound.

Similar situation here, mainly XM. I've had high powered audio setups (Soundstream amps/Focal separates, Audio Control, etc) before but didn't want to go that route this time. I just replaced the front speakers with Infinity 6x9 separates, and the rear with Infinity 6.5 coax's. Used tacotunes tweeter mounting brackets, and ordered the speaker kits from Amazon. It really sounds pretty darn good.
 
I kept the stock head unit (entune non JBL) and ordered the focal is 690toy's for the front, kenwoods for the rear door and Rockford fosgate for the hatch along with a powered bazooka 8" tube for the rear cargo area. Sounds WAYYYYYY better than stock especially in terms of bass response. Very happy with the upgrade and although I could have spent a ton more to sound better, I couldn't justify going all out
 
Where in SD are you? I am up in Newport Beach. Second Skin looks good - did you use the 40 sq ft pack? Found FatMat about $25 cheaper online. Why did you use a 5 channel if you didn't add a sub? And what was the point of rewiring the system? Im looking at your build now. Is there a thread for it?

Anyones opinions on Rockford vs JL system? Considering at 10w3 or 8w3 or 10/8 P2 if I went Rockford and JL door speakers. In my old Tahoe I has a 12w7 with Rockford door speakers. I don't know much about door speakers - only amps and subs

I'm in Point Loma. I have a 5 channel because I'm adding a JL12TW3-D4, just haven't built the box yet. I bought the Sound Skins door kit for 60 and it is worth every penny. I rewired the system because I upgraded the HU to the Pionner Avid 8200 and the Arc Audio 5 channel which I have mounted below the drivers seat.

The one thing that I am wanting to do is sell the JL shallow mount and purchase some of the DD Audio 6.5" 1000s series. They are loud and take a lot less room

Also, there's a lot better option then JL or RF door speakers. I am a huge fan of Focals because they are loud and clear. Abt.com has the PF165F for a huge price discount.

I don't have any threads out there, just the pic of my completed door speakers and sound skins
 
I'm in Point Loma. I have a 5 channel because I'm adding a JL12TW3-D4, just haven't built the box yet. I bought the Sound Skins door kit for 60 and it is worth every penny. I rewired the system because I upgraded the HU to the Pionner Avid 8200 and the Arc Audio 5 channel which I have mounted below the drivers seat.

The one thing that I am wanting to do is sell the JL shallow mount and purchase some of the DD Audio 6.5" 1000s series. They are loud and take a lot less room

Also, there's a lot better option then JL or RF door speakers. I am a huge fan of Focals because they are loud and clear. Abt.com has the PF165F for a huge price discount.

I don't have any threads out there, just the pic of my completed door speakers and sound skins

Should I consider some component speakers? Ive heard the JL c2s and they are pretty damn solid. They sound like a small sub. I put RF punch door speakers in my 02 tahoe and they were solid but on a different level. I wouldnt mind having them again but I would like a little bit more umph from the door speakers. I plan on running a 5 channel amp
 
Should I consider some component speakers? Ive heard the JL c2s and they are pretty damn solid. They sound like a small sub. I put RF punch door speakers in my 02 tahoe and they were solid but on a different level. I wouldnt mind having them again but I would like a little bit more umph from the door speakers. I plan on running a 5 channel amp

I'm surprised on the amount of mid bass from my focal components and they are originally $500+ a set but I couldn't pass the price at $270. I think the amount of bass is based on how much work you put in dealing your doors and adding sound deadening material. I'm sure there are also great options but I am extremely satisfied with the SQ and sound levels of my setup. I upgraded my HU because the stock one is poor quality and the pionner 8200 has a built in sound processor. I went with the arc audio amps because of thier reputation and quality of build. The 850.5 also fits perfectly under the front seats. I'm still going to add a sub but it's not necessary for a everyday listener.
 
I'm surprised on the amount of mid bass from my focal components and they are originally $500+ a set but I couldn't pass the price at $270. I think the amount of bass is based on how much work you put in dealing your doors and adding sound deadening material. I'm sure there are also great options but I am extremely satisfied with the SQ and sound levels of my setup. I upgraded my HU because the stock one is poor quality and the pionner 8200 has a built in sound processor. I went with the arc audio amps because of thier reputation and quality of build. The 850.5 also fits perfectly under the front seats. I'm still going to add a sub but it's not necessary for a everyday listener.

I am unfamiliar with Arc Audio.Which speaker locations have tweeters that can be replaced? I wanted to go the JL route but honestly I don't need to spend that much money. I just want a bit better. Right now I was thinking RF 8" p2 (or maybe Sundown SD 8" if I can get it in a small box), RF 5 channel amp, RF Punch door speakers all around. Unless someone has a better combo setup. I think that with the sound deadener will come in under less than 1k. Suggestions welcome. I want to add a sub but I don't need something that slams. At the same time, I don't want it to suck. I am after SQ first along with the smallest amount of space taken up. My issue with the speakers is I haven't heard very many. I know a lot of good subs - but not very familiar with speakers. Ive only had one set of RFs and heard a JL set before(they thumped - didn't even need a sub honestly)
 
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