why 6.5s all around? Coaxial or component?
Audio Upgrade?
- Thread starter jjolles
- Start date
why 6.5s all around? Coaxial or component?
bump -
also being that guy. Are there tweeters only in the front doors?
Please correct me if I am wrong
Dash 3.5"
Front doors: 6x9 or 6.5" with tweeters? Are the 6.5" direct or any modification needed?
Rear doors/hatch 6.5"
To add amp/sub to entune system non jbl - do I need any special cables/cords or anything besides the amp kit? Taking everything to an installer and buying ahead of time. this is my first time with a 4runner so very unfamiliar. What I have had in the past was always simple.
also being that guy. Are there tweeters only in the front doors?
Please correct me if I am wrong
Dash 3.5"
Front doors: 6x9 or 6.5" with tweeters? Are the 6.5" direct or any modification needed?
Rear doors/hatch 6.5"
To add amp/sub to entune system non jbl - do I need any special cables/cords or anything besides the amp kit? Taking everything to an installer and buying ahead of time. this is my first time with a 4runner so very unfamiliar. What I have had in the past was always simple.
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wakevictim
New member
I'm not a fan of JL audio speakers, but I do like thier subs. If your limited on the size of a sub box and you're wanting great SQ, look into the DD Audio 6.5" 1000 series sub. These sound AMAZING and pack a punch while only needing less than a cubic foot of air space for a ported box. Don't be fooled that it's only a 6.5". If I didn't have my 12" JL TW3-D4 shallow mount sub, I'd go with the DD Audios. For good deals, check out Abt.com and talk live to a car audio specialist, that's where I got such good deals on my stuff.
wakevictim
New member
The front speakers are the only components 6x9, the rest are coaxials. Check out my door set up in my audio build if your interested in running components in the rear doors. Super simple modification. The only reason I ran components in the rear is because of the ridiculous good deal I got on the set. There's many options to run 6.5"s up front. I actually made my own speaker adapters which I don't recommend because the tools and materials cost way more than buying speaker adapters online.
If you want to add aftermarket subs and amps to the stock HU, you have to add a digital signal processor. AudioControl has a few affordable options. I ended up upgrading my HU to simplify my install and sound 10x better than anything the stock HU would output.
I have always generally been a fan of sealed subwoofers. Prefer the tight, crisp sound you get from sealed subs. I bought a 10" Sealed JL PowerWedge for the 4Runner and have been somewhat unimpressed. Sort of thinking it might be due to the acoustics in the truck rather than the sub/box. Either it is too quiet where the door speakers more than make up for the sub sounds or it is too loud and floppy/messy sounding. The only place I can put it is behind the left rear seat pointed toward the right side. If I have it pointing toward the rear or toward the front, I get a lot of distortion sounds. Not the clean tight response I would expect from a sealed sub. Maybe a smaller ported sub is better for the environment? I've usually been plenty impressed with stock sound after adding a sub to compliment it, but this 4Runner has me scratching my head on how to get good sound out of it.
Wait - you're saying this is a requirement? How much are these? And why are these necessary. I thought adding a sub/amp would be simple..... This is a huge buzzkill..... Any you recommend? Is this what the JL clean sweep does? Sorry for the questions - just never ran into this before.
Will this work? https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-6-Channel-Output-Converter-Restoration/dp/B00ATHBO86/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501783681&sr=8-1&keywords=jl+clean+sweep
On the note - any speakers you would recommend that arent JL?
As for subs - I'll take a look at the DD. The only others I have considered are the Type R 8", P2 8". and the Sundown Audio SA 8. Thoughts?
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^You can use amps with high voltage inputs. I've researched the JLs, but they will take high voltage (speaker wires) and convert it internally.
Now, this does nothing to the quality of the signal whereas a processor can tweak the EQ curve a bit, but it is an option to start.
Now, this does nothing to the quality of the signal whereas a processor can tweak the EQ curve a bit, but it is an option to start.
LowCountrySilverTP
New member
If money isn't a huge concern, check out OEM+ they have an aftermarket system that's outfitted specifically for our trucks. It'll probably be my next big purchase.
4runner | OEM Audio Plus
4runner | OEM Audio Plus
You lost me... Not very savvy in terms of car audio internal knowledge. Do that mean the JL amps will work? If so, what else do I need besides the amp?
How are taco tunes amp qualities?
There has to be a simple way to add a damn sub and amp...... This is disappointing.
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wakevictim
New member
Yeah, the LC7i is a good option for intragating an aftermarket amp and sub but you are limiting your sound quality because the stock HU is limited. The reason you need a sound processor is because there's no RCA output for subs in the Stock HU. If I were you, I'd use the money that'd you'd spend on a DSP and upgrade the HU like I did.
I'm a huge fan of Focal speakers and they have great options for all budgets. The ones I have in my 4runner are these 6.5" in the front and rear doors:
Focal Flax Cone 6.5" 2-Way Component Kit - PS165F - Abt
If you're looking for an easy plug and play option, these are a great option but the flax series above is a ton better for the same price:
Focal 6"x9" Toyota Component Speaker Kit - IS 690 TOY
If you're on a budget, I'd spend more on a great component set in the fronts and sacrifice a little in the rear doors. I would highly recommend not installing any in the tailgate because there really isn't a reason and a waste of money you can invest in the fronts.
I haven't had experience with alpine subs in 10+ years and I know Sundown is know for SPL. Another brand of subs I would recommend is D.C. audio. They are a good mix of SQ and SPL.
You don't need all that. If you get an amp with high level inputs you can just spice your speaker wide directly into it. There are also cheap line output converters you can buy (like $20) if your amp doesn't accept high level inputs.
I am not upgrading the HU. Honestly, I have never seen a double din I've liked. I think they all look like shit and ghetto. The stock is clean. I just need to find a way to to hook the amp and sub up. What is the word on the advice below?
Also - are the rear doors worth replacing? What about the dash?
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Any amps you would recommend? And LOC as well?
I have a JL XD 300 that supposedly has high level inputs, but thought I was still getting distortion. So I bought a Scosche LOC that seemed to do the job. I also bought a 10" Sealed JL Powerwedge. I'm still not super satisfied with the sound though. I think my lack of satisfaction might come from the interior acoustics now. It's not that it's bad (way better than without). It's just not as integrated with the sound stage as I would like. Seems like I either have it too low to where it isn't adding much additional low end fill. Or it is too high and over powers things in a less than tight/musical manner. One reason I went with a sealed sub is because I prefer very tight accurate bass. I am constantly adjusting my gain with a knob I installed up front. I definitely recommend you get an amp that can accept one of those remote level knobs so you can fine tune it.
GAsr5, based on your posts, replies, and comments, I would suggest you go find a few local shops, talk to them, pick one you trust, and let them help you through the process.
Asking a bunch of questions on a message board where everyone has opinions on what they did for their own system (with lots of confirmation bias) but you don't know their experience or what the system sounds like can lead you down paths that will make you less than happy. I may say I did one thing, and it is the best sounding EVAR, but my tastes are completely different than you and if you follow my advice, will disappoint.
A good shop will guide you to find a system that fits your budget and will meet your expectations. Will it cost more that ordering components online and doing it yourself? Yes, but you'll gain knowledge, make fewer mistakes, and spend less in the long run. Plus they can help you tweak, add components, upgrade down the road and not have to reverse engineer what you did (wrong).
I am by no means a pro, but have done my share of installs and have helped friends fix issues in their installs. More than once I have had to rip the whole thing out and start over, and what started as "Ill do it for a case of Bud Light" turned into "we're going out to dinner when I'm finished, and you are buying"
Asking a bunch of questions on a message board where everyone has opinions on what they did for their own system (with lots of confirmation bias) but you don't know their experience or what the system sounds like can lead you down paths that will make you less than happy. I may say I did one thing, and it is the best sounding EVAR, but my tastes are completely different than you and if you follow my advice, will disappoint.
A good shop will guide you to find a system that fits your budget and will meet your expectations. Will it cost more that ordering components online and doing it yourself? Yes, but you'll gain knowledge, make fewer mistakes, and spend less in the long run. Plus they can help you tweak, add components, upgrade down the road and not have to reverse engineer what you did (wrong).
I am by no means a pro, but have done my share of installs and have helped friends fix issues in their installs. More than once I have had to rip the whole thing out and start over, and what started as "Ill do it for a case of Bud Light" turned into "we're going out to dinner when I'm finished, and you are buying"
Just saw you're from Athens. I grew up there. But yes thats what I am planning on doing this weekend. I just needed some guidance here before as I will be buying everything online and having a shop install it. Basically I just need to know everything I need to walk in with.
What system are you running?
Ha, nice. I've only been here 5 years, but love it.
System is in the build stage, so theoretical now, but going with JL C2 components up front and coax in the rear. Rear speakers do not do much for sound q, but I like to hang out / tailgate out of the back, and the hatch speakers provide a lot of the sound for that which is why I'm going C2 all the way around. Not firm on the sub yet, deciding if I'm going to custom build a box or just buy a loaded box and be done with it. I'll probably add the RD900/5 amp just to have it all in one. There are lots more options out there, but I'm at the stage where simplicity is what I'm after, and JL is a name I know and trust. I'll add a signal processor if I find out the high level inputs into the amp are not cutting it.
The reality of car electronics (and home for that matter) you really get what you pay for, so you need to know what your expectations are, find out what that costs, and adjust both accordingly. Don't get hung up on the brand, or watts for that matter. Some 25 watt amps will blow the doors off of a 100w amp.
Question, why are you buying everything online and having someone install it? Do they not have inventory? I'd really be looking at what a shop has and can show me, then ask them to match pricing online if necessary rather than trying to decide what to buy without hearing any of it. I would only go this route if you found something you liked at another shop, but didn't trust the installers / owners to do things right. Fuse sizing, clean install, not tearing your truck up while pulling it apart are all important too.
Are you going to use the stock head unit? I am pretty set on using the exact same setup as you honestly except with a different sub. I have used JL in the past and have had great results. I know I am paying for the name but I am ok with that. Probably going to go with the Sundown Audio SA 8 or DD Audio 1000 6.5". Anyways, I dont want to buy from a shop because everything I have always seen has been heavily marked up. I have always just brought in my own equipment and had someone install it. This of course is AFTER listening to it in person at the shop or someone elses setup. Thoughts?
Does the RD have the high level outputs? Was either going to go with this, the xd or the hd amp most likely.
Alternate setup: Rockford Punch 1000x5 Amp, P2d2 8" sub, rockford speakers all around.
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Staying Stock on the HU. IMO, give the shop a chance to match the online pricing. You can probably get pretty close while building good will. Especially since I'm assuming you'll let them use their own wiring, fuse holders, wire looms, etc. You are going to pay full retail for that stuff and it can add up. You'd be surprised how much of that stuff gets "thrown in" if you bought all the components too. Just my opinion.
All the JL amps have high level inputs, everything above the JX requires you to put an RCA end on the speaker wire though, but that's cheap. I honestly wouldn't go up to the HD if you are going to feed it the stock head unit, those are really good amps and you won't be utilizing the potential that you are paying for.
I will go in this weekend hopefully to the one that has good reviews nearby and see what they can do on pricing. I was planning on bringing along an amp kit too(if thats what you were referring to wire looms, holders). Hopefully they can match. Would it be better to just run two JX amps? (4chan and mono) or would they need something besides the RCA. I plan on having the sound deadening done as well at this time. Go ahead and knock everything out at once.
