Audio Upgrade?

[keyser_soze]

Forgive my ignorance then, but how do you stop that incessant key in the ignition ding?

Also, my components sound like trash outside the car with the door open, since the tweeters are still in the car firing at the window and only the midrange driver is actually playing outside the car.

After turning the vehicle off turn the key to the off position, then turn it back to on without starting the motor. there will be no chime

And yeah you are right since the tweeters are in the dash. I don't use my vehicle for "tailgating". I usually just bring a portable stereo to the beach or camping.

We are getting pretty off topic here though, but at concert, the speakers are in front of you yes, but there is also nothing else in between, and also not any road noise coming from behind you.

The rears, while not nearly as important, do provide some level of help to the overall sound. Even at low volumes, the music "gets in the way" of the road noise and your mind will naturally tune out the excess noise if the majority of the sound coming from the back is the same as what's coming from the front.

Again, I don't think you are wrong, just that there are other correct answers. In the competition environment, competitions are done while the car is sitting still with the engine running, so no extraneous noise and distractions.

I think you guys are misunderstanding me. I have the OEM rear speakers, and I use them. They are ran off my DSPs amp, I just have them filtered and running at a lower volume than the fronts. They are just for "rear fill".

My point was that you can just run the OEM rears off the head unit and save some money (or spend more money on the fronts)

But you do make a good point about road noise, and I'm sure the OEMs don't sound great turned up for tailgating.

 

[fogcitysurfer]

I have to agree with placing a 3" in the dash, we're lucky to have enough room in our cars to fit one in there. I have a illusion audio c3cx point source in there and it sounds amazing and makes the sound stage much more believable with having 350hz and up in the dash with a lot less blockages between them and your ears. Here is what I'm running in my car:

pioneer avh-4200nex
Mosconi 4to6dsp
Arc audio xdiv2 1100.5
oncore 10" sub (new company from the original guys of image dynamics)
Illusion Audio C6 midbass
Illusion Audio c3cx point source
stock speakers for rear seats (i fade 95% front anyway)

here is my stack fab enclosure for the sub, looks 100% oem:

Where did you get your sub install done? Looks great!

 

[djhuff7]

OK, JL C2s installed all the way around, components up front and 4 coax in the rear. Observations...

First, I suck at following standard work. 4 out of 5 door panels had to come back off after I reinstalled them because I forgot to hook something back up.

Second, the rears really need some help, wired in series and the factory HU is really weak in that space. If not adding an amp, cheap 6.5s if anything would be the better bet. The sound is cleaned up, but unremarkable. [MENTION=124049]keyser_soze[/MENTION] is right about just doing the front and nothing else, especially if you are not going to amp the whole truck.

Third, wiring an Amp for the whole truck is gong to suck. I am going to wait a while before I tackle that, but the whole car is going to have to come apart to make it right. If anyone is going to tackle this themselves, I suggest having another car to use so you don't have to rush to get it done so you can get to work on Monday. It'll take time to do it right.

Lastly, the sound deadening really quiets things down, and makes the doors feel more solid, with that solid "thunk" when you close them.

 

[tacoyota]

yep! just do the dash and front speakers only.

 

[GAsr5]

Ive gone down the Taco Tunes rabbit hole. May pick up speakers from here. Going to come down to Jl C2 or the ID speakers.

In terms of DSP: should I go ahead and do this while I have a professional in there? If so, whats the difference between these three

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T4XR78/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1SX1R00E2EUMR&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T4XR78/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1SX1R00E2EUMR&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I9RHNLK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=AIIZF0ROPFSE5&psc=1

ReCurve EZQ - Add amps to your stock Toyota 4Runner Stereo (Head unit) (Copy)

 

[djhuff7]

Ive gone down the Taco Tunes rabbit hole. May pick up speakers from here. Going to come down to Jl C2 or the ID speakers.

In terms of DSP: should I go ahead and do this while I have a professional in there? If so, whats the difference between these three

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T4XR78/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1SX1R00E2EUMR&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T4XR78/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1SX1R00E2EUMR&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I9RHNLK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=AIIZF0ROPFSE5&psc=1

ReCurve EZQ - Add amps to your stock Toyota 4Runner Stereo (Head unit) (Copy)

The LC6i is just a line level converter. The other two are very comparable, with the ReCurve having an extra band to mess with on all channels, but that probably won't matter.

Or you could just go all in with this: JL Processor

If you have the installer leave you some extra wire on the connections to the stock HU, it would be very easy to add one later yourself if you wanted.

 

[keyser_soze]

Second, the rears really need some help, wired in series and the factory HU is really weak in that space. If not adding an amp, cheap 6.5s if anything would be the better bet. The sound is cleaned up, but unremarkable. [MENTION=124049]keyser_soze[/MENTION] is right about just doing the front and nothing else, especially if you are not going to amp the whole truck.

This has more to do with running them off the factory head unit than the speakers. If you car going to do more than just the 3.5" dash swap you need an amp. period. Once you get an amp in there it will change everything and those speakers will come alive.

Third, wiring an Amp for the whole truck is gong to suck. I am going to wait a while before I tackle that, but the whole car is going to have to come apart to make it right.

I made my own patch harness and just ran all the wires underneath the driver seat, really not too difficult at all. If you are running new speaker wire then yes that will be a pain in the ass.

Lastly, the sound deadening really quiets things down, and makes the doors feel more solid, with that solid "thunk" when you close them.

I love how solid the doors feel after sound deadening.
Especially the rears, they were so light from the factory.

yep! just do the dash and front speakers only.

Yes and no. Yes do just the 3.5" dash... If you just put components up front (or coax in both), you will probably find they are under powered and you will be listening to your stereo at near max volume if you actually want to hear it with the windows down at speed.

Ive gone down the Taco Tunes rabbit hole. May pick up speakers from here. Going to come down to Jl C2 or the ID speakers.

In terms of DSP: should I go ahead and do this while I have a professional in there? If so, whats the difference between these three

LC6i
LCQi
Tacotunes ReCurve

None of those are DSPs.

The LC6i is just a nice line out converter.
The LCQi is a line converter AND EQ.
The Tacotunes is the same as the LCQi and it can come with a wiring harness.

A DSP will have an EQ, Corssovers (usually on all channels), and sound delay. These things really make a difference when paired with a quality system. A DSP typically needs to be installed by a professional who is familiar with the system.

For you I would recommend the Tacotunes ReCurve. It will give you an EQ to work with, its relativly cheap, and its plug and play.

If you do decide to get a DSP then talk to the shop and see what they recommend. A DSP is nothing without someone who knows how to properly tune it.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Anyone here interested in a pair of TacoTunes 05+ Tacoma sub enclosures? Yes i know, not 4Runner but they are slim and will of course work in anything. Buy one or buy both. They are the bedlined version, perfect condition, set up for a single 10" woofer in each. No woofer included, enclosure only.

 

[GAsr5]

This has more to do with running them off the factory head unit than the speakers. If you car going to do more than just the 3.5" dash swap you need an amp. period. Once you get an amp in there it will change everything and those speakers will come alive.


I made my own patch harness and just ran all the wires underneath the driver seat, really not too difficult at all. If you are running new speaker wire then yes that will be a pain in the ass.

I love how solid the doors feel after sound deadening.
Especially the rears, they were so light from the factory.

Yes and no. Yes do just the 3.5" dash... If you just put components up front (or coax in both), you will probably find they are under powered and you will be listening to your stereo at near max volume if you actually want to hear it with the windows down at speed.



None of those are DSPs.

The LC6i is just a nice line out converter.
The LCQi is a line converter AND EQ.
The Tacotunes is the same as the LCQi and it can come with a wiring harness.

A DSP will have an EQ, Corssovers (usually on all channels), and sound delay. These things really make a difference when paired with a quality system. A DSP typically needs to be installed by a professional who is familiar with the system.

For you I would recommend the Tacotunes ReCurve. It will give you an EQ to work with, its relativly cheap, and its plug and play.

If you do decide to get a DSP then talk to the shop and see what they recommend. A DSP is nothing without someone who knows how to properly tune it.

How are we looking now? https://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/2D60BTV7PBJ0F/ref=cm_wl_huc_title
Probably going to go ahead and get the recurve as well

 

[keyser_soze]

How are we looking now? https://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/2D60BTV7PBJ0F/ref=cm_wl_huc_title
Probably going to go ahead and get the recurve as well

Looks good. JL + the recurve should sound great.

 

[scotsman]

I'd def go for the fix 86 over the recurve.

 

[GAsr5]

I'd def go for the fix 86 over the recurve.

Reason being? Considered this but looked like there was a lot of tuning you had to do through a computer that I didnt want to pay someone to do. Recurve seemed pretty simple. Plus much cheaper

 

[GAsr5]

Looks good. JL + the recurve should sound great.

Should I look at a 5 channel amp for any reason? It would be a bit more expensive. Wasnt sure if there are any benefits

 

[djhuff7]

Should I look at a 5 channel amp for any reason? It would be a bit more expensive. Wasnt sure if there are any benefits

Installation is simpler (one power wire vs using a distribution block). And with the JL, that means going to the RD instead of the JX, so an extra $170 too. It's only more expensive because you have to step up in the lineup. Lateral moves within an amp lineup, the 5 ch is cheaper.

I'm actually doing some research on the Alpine MRV or PDR series 5 channel amps. The specs look good, just have not paid much attention to them lately so I don't know where they are quality wise.

 

[GAsr5]

Installation is simpler (one power wire vs using a distribution block). And with the JL, that means going to the RD instead of the JX, so an extra $170 too. It's only more expensive because you have to step up in the lineup. Lateral moves within an amp lineup, the 5 ch is cheaper.

I'm actually doing some research on the Alpine MRV or PDR series 5 channel amps. The specs look good, just have not paid much attention to them lately so I don't know where they are quality wise.

I have no problem bumping up to the RD but I wasnt sure if it could fit under the seat. Any idea? My tahoe was nice as it had storage space under the second row. Not the case with the 5th gen

Specs: JL RD900/5

Height (H) 2.13 in / 54 mm
Width (W) 14.66 in / 372 mm
Depth (D) 6.96 in / 177 mm

Any sub mounting ideas when I have the all weather cargo liner? I want the sub to be secured but dont want to put holes in the tray.

 

[keyser_soze]

I have no problem bumping up to the RD but I wasnt sure if it could fit under the seat.

Any sub mounting ideas when I have the all weather cargo liner? I want the sub to be secured but dont want to put holes in the tray.

I cant remember but I think it would be just a little too long to fit horizontally under the seat. You should be fine mounting it the length of the vehicle. The only way to find out is to bust out a tape measure and go find out...

Depending on the shape of the box you get the sub should be fine (its heavy). You can use a bungee or a strap and connect them underneath where the back of the rear seats connect. Mine really only moved when I do serious off-roading

 

[djhuff7]

I have no problem bumping up to the RD but I wasnt sure if it could fit under the seat. Any idea? My tahoe was nice as it had storage space under the second row. Not the case with the 5th gen

Specs: JL RD900/5

Height (H) 2.13 in / 54 mm
Width (W) 14.66 in / 372 mm
Depth (D) 6.96 in / 177 mm

Any sub mounting ideas when I have the all weather cargo liner? I want the sub to be secured but dont want to put holes in the tray.

Only 13 or so between the seat rails, plus the rear seat floor vent is under there that you have to deal with.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Slight upgrade here

 

[djhuff7]

Does anyone have any experience with the Alpine PDR-V75?

Specs look good, it has a compact chassis, and all connections on one side so the install should be really clean under the passenger seat. As of now I'm torn between doing this one or JL RD400/4+JX500/1 combination.

 

[GAsr5]

Does anyone have any experience with the Alpine PDR-V75?

Specs look good, it has a compact chassis, and all connections on one side so the install should be really clean under the passenger seat. As of now I'm torn between doing this one or JL RD400/4+JX500/1 combination.

In the same boat. Rather just have one amp but I do like the dual amp in the sense if a speaker channel were to ever go out. It would be cheap and easy to replace. Thinking I may just do the 400/500 and get the taco tunes amp rack for both. Will be cheaper too(about $125 of savings)Either that or go to the RD 700 and get the 8w3 but I am afraid it wont be enough for my liking. I need to listen to one. I know for a fact the 10 will be enough(more than even). !0w3 sealed and 8w3 ported are the same box sizes just about.