Automatic Running Boards.

don't get this nightmare of an option. just not worth it, will cause more problems than what its worth. wait till it snows and gets below 10,and it locks up.

Dunno if 4runner manual says to maintain the steps as I don't have one yet. But with ford, one needs to maintain the steps, Keep them clean and in winter spray the pivot points with dry lube. Never had a problem living in a snow belt when they are cared for
 
One month out of warranty, my running boards are acting up. Refuse to retract or come out when the door opens only to quickly retract. Sometimes they will work just fine.

There were only two options available when I pre ordered my limited, 3rd row seat and auto running boards. I told them I didn't want either, the running boards for obvious reasons in Minnesota winters. When the truck arrived at the dealer it ended up having the running boards and they split the cost difference. Still a waste of money.

There is a TSB for it, a new updated ecu for the running boards and needs to be programmed with a dealer scan tool.
89720-35011 - Genuine Toyota COMPUTER ASSEMBLY, SIDE
 
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My drivers side randomly will not extend out. Lately its been acting up more and more. Its AZ so not because of ice or anything. I've looked underneath to see if its stuck and I've had it lubed with no luck on fixing it. It seems that even though it doesn't extend, when I close the door it makes a clunking sound as if its still trying to retract. I've never been able to locate any kind of sensor.
[MENTION=131466]Superjet[/MENTION] do you have any more info on that TSB?
 
Automatic retractable running boards no longer retracting

When trying to troubleshoot my passenger side board , I noticed the following: the rear passenger side door seemed to cause the failure to extend : after the "failure", no matter which door on right side (passenger side) would open, the board would not extend..... With the rear right ( passenger side) door open and board not extended, pressing the door switch and holding down about 3 seconds , would cause the board ( motor) to make a "clunk" sound . After that , board would extend when door opens/door switch is released. I removed door switch and applied WD40. Board no longer fails to extend ...

Note: I have initially excluded the switch as being the cause for board failing to extend, because the door light turned on every time , even when the board failed to extend. I would check/lube switches for both doors on the side with board issue.



My drivers side randomly will not extend out. Lately its been acting up more and more. Its AZ so not because of ice or anything. I've looked underneath to see if its stuck and I've had it lubed with no luck on fixing it. It seems that even though it doesn't extend, when I close the door it makes a clunking sound as if its still trying to retract. I've never been able to locate any kind of sensor.

[MENTION=131466]Superjet[/MENTION] do you have any more info on that TSB?
 
Dealing with what seems like a common issue... After a week in the snow/ice the passenger board will not retract until we start driving. I'm fortunately under warranty, but didn't see if anyone actually found a firm resolution for this.
 
I have the auto boards on my 2012. There have been a few times that they delay going back in, but it is a condition that is hard to reproduce and it does go in within 10-20 seconds. No other issues. My wife loves them.
 
It's normal for the running boards not to retract at the same times as the starter is cranking. Drop in voltage causes this. They will eventually retract once driving at 5mph
 
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When trying to troubleshoot my passenger side board , I noticed the following: the rear passenger side door seemed to cause the failure to extend : after the "failure", no matter which door on right side (passenger side) would open, the board would not extend..... With the rear right ( passenger side) door open and board not extended, pressing the door switch and holding down about 3 seconds , would cause the board ( motor) to make a "clunk" sound . After that , board would extend when door opens/door switch is released. I removed door switch and applied WD40. Board no longer fails to extend ...

Note: I have initially excluded the switch as being the cause for board failing to extend, because the door light turned on every time , even when the board failed to extend. I would check/lube switches for both doors on the side with board issue.

Hmm I excluded the door switch because of the light but I will try this first since it is cheaper than buying the new module. I'll keep you updated.
 
Lubricating the door switches and the steps themselves did nothing. I'm waiting for my VCI cable to come in so I can try the calibration then should all else fail I'll have to decide if it's worth replacing the control unit myself or to ditch them and just get some sliders or running boards.

I'll keep everyone updated.
 
Lubricating the door switches and the steps themselves did nothing. I'm waiting for my VCI cable to come in so I can try the calibration then should all else fail I'll have to decide if it's worth replacing the control unit myself or to ditch them and just get some sliders or running boards.

I'll keep everyone updated.

I just got back from the service center. All they said they did was "reset the running board module". I had no idea what that meant and when I got back in the car the clock was reset, both tripometers and the head unit were factory reset as well... Anyway, running board works fine now.
 
I just got back from the service center. All they said they did was "reset the running board module". I had no idea what that meant and when I got back in the car the clock was reset, both tripometers and the head unit were factory reset as well... Anyway, running board works fine now.

I tried disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 mins with no luck. Unless there is something in techstream to reset it. I forgot to reset the windows though so this is a good reminder to do that now. I'll let you know if there is anything in techstream when I get my cable.
 
I tried disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 mins with no luck. Unless there is something in techstream to reset it. I forgot to reset the windows though so this is a good reminder to do that now. I'll let you know if there is anything in techstream when I get my cable.

They mentioned needed to plug into the car because I asked "Can I just perform this reset on my own next time?" The answer was "no, you need our plug in." I'm assuming this was legit because I'm under warranty another 31,000 miles...
 
I'll probably just extend them both out, pull fuse FRB 30a under hood and leave them extended out for now until winter is over
 
They mentioned needed to plug into the car because I asked "Can I just perform this reset on my own next time?" The answer was "no, you need our plug in." I'm assuming this was legit because I'm under warranty another 31,000 miles...

I just found this in alldata:

INITIALIZE AUTOMATIC RUNNING BOARD SYSTEM
NOTICE:

When a side auto step controller ECU assembly is replaced, the side auto step controller ECU assembly must be initialized. Functions such as deploying/stowing and jam protection do not operate if the initialization is not performed.

HINT:

When the battery is replaced, it is not necessary to initialize the side auto step controller ECU assembly.

Initialization procedure when replacing the side auto step ECU with a new one:
Turn the side auto step switch assembly to OFF.
Open either the front or rear door on the driver side and the front or rear door on the passenger side.
Turn the side auto step switch assembly from AUTO to OFF 5 times in succession within 3 seconds.
Turn the side auto step switch assembly to AUTO.
Close either the front or rear door on the driver side and the front or rear door on the passenger side, and wait for 1.5 seconds or more.
Open the closed doors, deploy the automatic running board and turn the side auto step switch assembly to OFF.
 
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Nothing worked for me so I ended up ordering the new module. I'll let you all know when I get a chance to install.
 
I replaced the controller and everything works perfectly now. Overall it cost $234 with shipping which was cheaper that the $340 parts only my local dealer quoted me. I didn't even bother quoting out the labor because I knew it would be ridiculous. If anyone else wants to do this I highly recommend it if all else fails.
 
I have a '15 with the automatic running boards and they tend to get stuck/delay more often than I'd like. I sometimes just open the door and close just to trigger them after I'm already inside. It's a neat feature, but can get annoying. Been debating on getting rid of them.
 

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