Aux Light Wiring Help Please

[MikeYQM]

Thanks in advance for any help! I’m comfortable working with electrical but am not the best at designing. What I’m trying to do is:

I would like to wire 2 Aux lights to my high beams. The 2 lights are powered through a distribution block to separate relays and separate in cab switches.

I want to keep the switches so that I can operate the high beams with or without the aux lights but I only want the aux lights to work when both the switch and high beams are on; allowing me to disengage the lights by turning off the high beams.

Can anyone explain how to accomplish this please?

Thanks again


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[rigtec]

Thanks in advance for any help! I’m comfortable working with electrical but am not the best at designing. What I’m trying to do is:

I would like to wire 2 Aux lights to my high beams. The 2 lights are powered through a distribution block to separate relays and separate in cab switches.

I want to keep the switches so that I can operate the high beams with or without the aux lights but I only want the aux lights to work when both the switch and high beams are on; allowing me to disengage the lights by turning off the high beams.

Can anyone explain how to accomplish this please?

Thanks again

Hey Mike,

That's an easy one! As I understand it, you've already wired the Relay terminal #87A to the POS battery term via a wiring manifold block. #30 on rly goes to the load (Lights). Okay, now you need to wire the relay coils (terminal #85 (POS) and #86 (NEG)... it doesn't really matter which is pos or neg in this case.

From your High-beam HOT wire, feed the AOB Switches (as per diagram):

The GRN wire goes to the High-beam HOT wire (Lt GRN/BLK)...tie both green switch wires together. The WH wire feeds the rly coils from the high-beam power source, term 85. #86 on the relays get grounded to any good, solid ground inside of truck, or underhood of the vehicle e.g., a left-side fender screw under the hood or even the WH w/BLK stripe on the center console cigarette lighter...!

The Yellow wire IS NOT USED (spare). The BLK wire is the Illumination feed from the other dash switches/Instrument cluster (GRN HOT wire, Optional) to light up when the parking/Head-lights are on. And the BLUE wire MUST be grounded inside of the truck so the "ON INDICATOR light" will work when in operation!

That's it Mike... if you have any questions, post them and one of us, or myself will try to help get this done! 'Best to you',

rig, cheers!

 

[rigtec]

..My badd Mike,

I mistakenly thought your post said that you were using the 'T4R Standard' AOB Switches, which are a direct fit in the 5'th GEN 4Runner dash push-button inserts!

"w/headlights only"

"Now w/Foglights and HLs on"

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/159174-factory-style-fog-light-switch-fits-knock-out.html<<< here's the web-link

They only cost $28 bucks each, but they're well worth it, My apologies!

rig, cheers!

 

[Sparkkky]

Have a set of led with a contacter with three wires to switch. Will this work and which wires would be used?

 

[diodia]

While the below makes sense, I don't think that "automatically" is feasible with DRLs. Wouldn't you need to either turn off the switch or DRLs to make it work? At which point, simply wiring the two aux lights to the switch is a simpler solution.

Hey Mike,

That's an easy one! As I understand it, you've already wired the Relay terminal #87A to the POS battery term via a wiring manifold block. #30 on rly goes to the load (Lights). Okay, now you need to wire the relay coils (terminal #85 (POS) and #86 (NEG)... it doesn't really matter which is pos or neg in this case.

From your High-beam HOT wire, feed the AOB Switches (as per diagram):

The GRN wire goes to the High-beam HOT wire (Lt GRN/BLK)...tie both green switch wires together. The WH wire feeds the rly coils from the high-beam power source, term 85. #86 on the relays get grounded to any good, solid ground inside of truck, or underhood of the vehicle e.g., a left-side fender screw under the hood or even the WH w/BLK stripe on the center console cigarette lighter...!

The Yellow wire IS NOT USED (spare). The BLK wire is the Illumination feed from the other dash switches/Instrument cluster (GRN HOT wire, Optional) to light up when the parking/Head-lights are on. And the BLUE wire MUST be grounded inside of the truck so the "ON INDICATOR light" will work when in operation!

That's it Mike... if you have any questions, post them and one of us, or myself will try to help get this done! 'Best to you',

rig, cheers!

 

[MikeYQM]

I have them wired to Rago switches right now. I’d like them tied to the high beams so that I can turn them off immediately when driving on back roads & see oncoming traffic - rather than fumble for 2 switches and the high beams


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[GearJunkie88]

I think I did what you are trying to do

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/231053-aob-switch-wiring-question.html

Thanks in advance for any help! I’m comfortable working with electrical but am not the best at designing. What I’m trying to do is:

I would like to wire 2 Aux lights to my high beams. The 2 lights are powered through a distribution block to separate relays and separate in cab switches.

I want to keep the switches so that I can operate the high beams with or without the aux lights but I only want the aux lights to work when both the switch and high beams are on; allowing me to disengage the lights by turning off the high beams.

Can anyone explain how to accomplish this please?

Thanks again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JSparky]

You’re going to have to rework the wiring, from how I’m understanding it.

I believe you can achieve this by jumpering a + lead from the factory high beam wire to activate the aux light relay(s). You’ll want to keep the aux light’s power source relayed directly from the battery. Then, wire your switch(s) in-line on the jumper’d lead from the high beams. Idea being, aux lights won’t work when high beams are off; when high beams are on the relay for the aux lights will be switched. With the lights switched on, cutting the high beams will cut power to the relay, switching the aux lights off automatically.

Be sure to check the current in the factory high beam wiring to ensure your switches are rated properly.

If I’ve made a mistake here someone please correct me.

 

[rigtec]

I have them wired to Rago switches right now. I’d like them tied to the high beams so that I can turn them off immediately when driving on back roads & see oncoming traffic - rather than fumble for 2 switches and the high beams


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Hi Mike,

The way that I described the wiring IS to work with ONLY the High Beams; hence the high beam power source! Shutting off the High beams will also kill the new lighting system! The previous poster mentioned the DRLs but you never said that you wanted the new lights to operate with the DRLs... let me know,

rig

 

[rigtec]

You’re going to have to rework the wiring, from how I’m understanding it.

I believe you can achieve this by jumpering a + lead from the factory high beam wire to activate the aux light relay(s). You’ll want to keep the aux light’s power source relayed directly from the battery. Then, wire your switch(s) in-line on the jumper’d lead from the high beams. Idea being, aux lights won’t work when high beams are off; when high beams are on the relay for the aux lights will be switched. With the lights switched on, cutting the high beams will cut power to the relay, switching the aux lights off automatically.

Be sure to check the current in the factory high beam wiring to ensure your switches are rated properly.

If I’ve made a mistake here someone please correct me.

Hi JSparky,

I've got the switches/relays getting their trigger source directly from the High Beam feed line. these Aux lights can't work w/o the high-beams on!

rigtec, cheers!

 

[JSparky]

Hi JSparky,

I've got the switches/relays getting their trigger source directly from the High Beam feed line. these Aux lights can't work w/o the high-beams on!

rigtec, cheers!

Exactly! I use my factory high beams to jumper bixenon hi beams on my cruiser, works like a charm.