Back Window Problem.

[TheDurk]

Thanks for the response, I'll take a close look at the wiring tonight hopefully!

I took the orange relay box out of a 98. Will a 98 relay box work in my 2000? Like I said everything worked but my keyless entry?? Do you have to reprogram the key fobs to a different power window relay to make them work? It makes no sense?

The receiver for the factory keyless entry is built into the Rear Door ECM on a 2000. There was no factory keyless entry in '98, there was only the port/dealer add-on as part of the RS3000 alarm system and that did not have the receiver in the back door. So, no, a '98 box will not give you keyless entry in a 2000. That said, the orange box is the '99-'00 box. The '98 box is supposed to be blue. Also. '99+ has the multiplex bus communication system between the front and back. Totally different technology.

You need p/n 85930-35060 from '99 to '02. If the orange box you are looking at is p/n 85930-35060, it is quite possible you do have to reprogram so it accepts your fobs.

I second the advice about checking the wiring inside the liftgate. Also check the wiring in the harness between the body and the liftgate. I'd do that first. Most back door weirdness starts there.

 

[dsms4ever]

The junk yard runner must have been a 99 since it was produced in 98 according to the white sticker, duh, my bad...the pn number is the same that's why I was confused that the keyless didn't immediately work. How do I reprogram the fobs? I know it's been covered but I've seen a lot of variations and don't know which guide to follow for my 2000.

 

[TheDurk]

The junk yard runner must have been a 99 since it was produced in 98 according to the white sticker, duh, my bad...the pn number is the same that's why I was confused that the keyless didn't immediately work. How do I reprogram the fobs? I know it's been covered but I've seen a lot of variations and don't know which guide to follow for my 2000.

With, or without, alarm?

 

[dsms4ever]

It was a 99 limited that I pulled the relay from and mine is a 2000 limited, I'm assuming they both have alarms?

 

[Joshrav8r]

It seems that each person has a slightly different problem with the same result; back window not work. 96 Limited

Mine started when the window fell off the track 2 years ago. One of the little plastic bushings between the regulator arms and the window tracks disintegrated. Stealership only sells whole regulators, not 10 cent plastic bushings. Bought a used one.Finally have time to look deeper into the issue.

Reinstalled it but now nothing worked. Must have had a wiper parking issue because with messing around with it the rear wiper, washer, and defrost started working but no window. I hot wired the motor and rolled the window up so motor's good. Master lock not on since all the other windows work.

Here's where it gets fun. The FSM link http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/be/bdpwcsy/insp.pdf Shows 10 wires at the rear window switch, I only have 6 slots with 5 wires at the switch located in the centre console.

3 of the pins are negative, the 2 to one side have continuity all the time regardless of switch position and negative when the key is in ACC. The top left pin is the 3rd negative.

The left side arrangement is 3 pins. The middle one is common but dead I think it should have 12v with the ignition to ACC but it doesn't.

The top left pin is negative, from centre to top is normally open, closes when the switch is DOWN.

From centre to bottom left is normally open, closes when the switch is UP.

My back door ECU (small blue box) has 18 slots but 17 wires but I can't find a pin out diagram or troubleshooting guide showing when they should be powered or not.

I don't seem to be able to find a damaged wire, but there's always more panels and trim I can take apart.

I need help figuring out where to look next. Could it be a bad window limit switch? Door open/closed sensor in the latch (wiper works with tailgate open and closed)?

 

[TheDurk]

It seems that each person has a slightly different problem with the same result; back window not work. 96 Limited

Mine started when the window fell off the track 2 years ago. One of the little plastic bushings between the regulator arms and the window tracks disintegrated. Stealership only sells whole regulators, not 10 cent plastic bushings. Bought a used one.Finally have time to look deeper into the issue.

Reinstalled it but now nothing worked. Must have had a wiper parking issue because with messing around with it the rear wiper, washer, and defrost started working but no window. I hot wired the motor and rolled the window up so motor's good. Master lock not on since all the other windows work.

Here's where it gets fun. The FSM link http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/be/bdpwcsy/insp.pdf Shows 10 wires at the rear window switch, I only have 6 slots with 5 wires at the switch located in the centre console.

3 of the pins are negative, the 2 to one side have continuity all the time regardless of switch position and negative when the key is in ACC. The top left pin is the 3rd negative.

The left side arrangement is 3 pins. The middle one is common but dead I think it should have 12v with the ignition to ACC but it doesn't.

The top left pin is negative, from centre to top is normally open, closes when the switch is DOWN.

From centre to bottom left is normally open, closes when the switch is UP.

My back door ECU (small blue box) has 18 slots but 17 wires but I can't find a pin out diagram or troubleshooting guide showing when they should be powered or not.

I don't seem to be able to find a damaged wire, but there's always more panels and trim I can take apart.

I need help figuring out where to look next. Could it be a bad window limit switch? Door open/closed sensor in the latch (wiper works with tailgate open and closed)?

The Service Hints section in the attachment to this are the tests you should be checking next.

Here is a present from my private collection (EWD for '96):

 

[Joshrav8r]

Thanks Durk, that's the first tech doc I've seen that seems to actually match my wiring. Everything else shows a back door ECU with 25 wires (mine has 17) and a rear window switch with 10 wires (mine has 5 wires 6 pin positions in the connector).

I'm actually not entirely sure how a DC reversing motor switch is supposed to work, being an a/c electrician probably complicates things for me. 4 weeks of DC machines in 4th year doesn't seem to be helping me at all... I need to figure out how the limit switches, window lock sw, and ecu fit into the wiring diagram electrically so I can figure out what's not working...

Thanks TD.

 

[dsms4ever]

A bad ground it was.... The white wire with the black stripe was broken in two between the body and the tailgate! Some new wire, solder and heat shrink and everything works again!!

 

[Joshrav8r]

You mean like this?

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Thanks for the help T4R! Window works, and I cut and re spliced all of the cracked wires so no more intermittent wiper issue. I almost wanted it to be something electronic or more in depth I think. 20 year old wires bending over and over again should have been my first look. I just didn't want to rip apart the head liner to get at the plugs and unwrap a bunch of wires. Next time I'll look there first!

 

[TheDurk]

Thanks Durk, that's the first tech doc I've seen that seems to actually match my wiring. Everything else shows a back door ECU with 25 wires (mine has 17) and a rear window switch with 10 wires (mine has 5 wires 6 pin positions in the connector).

I'm actually not entirely sure how a DC reversing motor switch is supposed to work, being an a/c electrician probably complicates things for me. 4 weeks of DC machines in 4th year doesn't seem to be helping me at all... I need to figure out how the limit switches, window lock sw, and ecu fit into the wiring diagram electrically so I can figure out what's not working...

Thanks TD.

It could not be more simple. Unlike AC, DC motors with permanent magnet fields reverse direction when the polarity of the motor leads is swapped positive to negative. So the motor leads are fed to a DPDT* relay which switches between one polarity and the other. The limit switch cuts the ground on that polarity when limit is exceeded but allows the other polarity to function. As soon as the window moves off the limit the cut ground is restored. The lock switch cuts the ground on both sides.

* actually probably two ganged DPST relays that function as a DPDT switch. The manual window switches are DPDTs. Toyota never gives us much info on what is inside their black boxes.

 

[Bear68]

Rear Window 1997 4Runner Issue

Just wanted to throw this out to anyone that is having a non mechanical related rear window issue on their 2nd Gen 4Runner. My 4Runner, which is a 1997 SR5 for some reason the rear window stopped rolling down a few months ago, I thought it was because I changed the battery out but not sure that was the case. After some fiddling with it the other day, I unscrewed the rear wiper blade and pulled it out as far as it would go, I had notice when rolling the rear window down it seemed to get stuck on the wiper motor inside or one of the levers? not sure but by pulling it out about a 1/4 inch it solved the problem and the window rolls down and back up again.

Bear

 

[Joshrav8r]

Just wanted to throw this out to anyone that is having a non mechanical related rear window issue on their 2nd Gen 4Runner. My 4Runner, which is a 1997 SR5 for some reason the rear window stopped rolling down a few months ago, I thought it was because I changed the battery out but not sure that was the case. After some fiddling with it the other day, I unscrewed the rear wiper blade and pulled it out as far as it would go, I had notice when rolling the rear window down it seemed to get stuck on the wiper motor inside or one of the levers? not sure but by pulling it out about a 1/4 inch it solved the problem and the window rolls down and back up again.

Bear

Rear wiper docking issues are common in 4Runners from what I've read. (Gen 3 not 2 BTW, 96-02), I thought I may have had this but in reality I think the issue was with the 5 nearly broken wires and the 2 fully severed ones shorting or carrying current intermittently. Re docking the wiper, and running through the open close, lock unlock cycle can reset the system, especially if you have the factory fob which I don't. I also don't have a key for the rear tailgate or the lock is jammed so I've never been able to open or close the window that way.


The Durk, I guess where I'm at on the dc reversing switch is that all the reading I've done on it says you need 4 wires. A positive and a negative feed, and a positive and negative load to the motor, the switch needs 2 jumpers which may be internal or may need to be added to make the switch reverse the motor not just On/Off, by reversing the polarity to the load feeds to the motor.

So what does the 5th wire on a Toyota switch do? And for that matter, on the other schematics, what could 10 wires possibly do?

 

[johnvt]

wire harness replace

is it possible to get a replacement wire harness from the body to the tailgate on the 2000 4runner? I've repaired wires a few years ago, but some are broken again. It's hard to splice in the limited space...
Where do you get wire harnesses? thanks

 

[glm97229]

Rear Defrost!

1995 SR5 - Window (rear) will not go up or down.

Just read some of the posts. Tried pressing and holding switch in the up and down position while turning on rear wiper...nothing...then pressed and held button in the up position then pushed rear defrost...SUCCESS!:cheer2:

Thanks guys!

 

[dozerfrelich]

I have a rear hatch issue, 99 limited, the key hole works on the outside to roll it up and down, power locks work as they should but nothing else does. Sometimes I can get it to work when I disconnect the clip in the photo and reconnect it. I checked for broken wires from the hatch to body and all of they have good continuity so nothing is broken there. I’m getting power on all the wires I believe (yellow,blue,blue/red) except the purple/white one which I believe only gets power when the inside switch it pressed? If anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated!
Edit: everything works until the rear latch sensor is closed then everything dies again until I reset it by unplugging and plugging in that connection in photo. It almost seems like that sensor is shorting out the system.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DNAPKIV]

Finally fixed my window, defrost and wiper

So Ive been lurking on this thread pretty much since I bought my 4runner 5 months ago. My problem was that the key worked fine to roll the window up and down but the buttons on the console didn't. This is what worked for me.

I checked the wires coming out of the vehicle for being broken and found three wires with issues. Two were cracked and one was a complete break. I spliced all three back together. I tested this and it didn't fix the problem.

I opened the back up and checked the limit switch sensor. With the back pc off of the door I used the key to open the glass and close it. (if you do this be careful as the guide for the glass is on the pc you removed. The window wont go back into the the tracked weatherstripping. I used my hand to carefully guide it in) The limit switch appeared to work. I clicked it on and off a couple of times manually. All seemed to be ok there.

Checked the center console switches...nothing worked and neither did the wiper. Put all the panels and stuff back together like it was supposed to and checked yet again...nothing.

Today for giggles I tried the defrost switch....and the light came on! Pushed the button on the center console and the window went down and back up! Checked the wiper and while it went pretty slow, it did indeed work correctly.

So now as to my theory as to the why it didn't work before and now it does?
I think its kind of like my issue I was having with the check engine light that ended up being just the fuel cap rubber seal. Once the engine didnt see the code as an issue it reset the check engine light. Im guessing that the computer just had to make sure that the window was indeed up? Possibly.

Hope this helps anyone else who has this problem. I know Ive put hours of research and hours more of time checking fuses and running down the problems manually. Can be very frustrating. The clue was that nothing worked from up front, but the key worked to raise and lower the window. Must have been the limit switch that was the broken wire.

Dave

 

[4Rubber]

On my 99 the key works to roll the window up and down as well as the button on the fob. The button inside does not do anything and the rear wiper does not work. Fuses are good so I’m leaning towards a wiring issue in the switch or in the hatch.

 

[DNAPKIV]

check the back wiring

On my 99 the key works to roll the window up and down as well as the button on the fob. The button inside does not do anything and the rear wiper does not work. Fuses are good so I’m leaning towards a wiring issue in the switch or in the hatch.

Definitely check the wires as they come out of the cab first. Gently pull the boot out and you can roll the rubber cover out of the way. If you find any you can splice them back together using inline splicers. Checking it will only require a flat head screwdriver to help get the boot off. Be careful as the boot is also attached to a plastic pc that protects the wires as they go through the hole.

Chances are its not the switch as this is a fairly common problem on most old 4runners. Copper is a fatigue metal. It'll only bend so many times before it breaks.

Good luck, post here if you need more advice as there are some really smart people who can help you if this doesnt.

Dave

 

[VernySanders]

I bought my truck last year and the back window didnt roll down PO said it never did. I undid the rubber around the harness that runs from the body into the rear hatch and sure enough 3 wires were cut due to it being almost 20 years old and it being open and closed to much. I connected the wires and problem solved.

 

[skeee]

HA!!! This worked for me as well! My window wouldn't go down, so I turned on the rear defroster and the rear wiper, and it works!!

OMG.. I’ve been trying to figure out the culprit of the switch. Went through 2 sets of switch from different sources thinking that was the issue. Then went through the trunk wiring harness and found 3 broken wires. Then after fixing the wires, did electrical test on the switch to make sure I have power and I still couldn’t make the windows to go up. After reading this, I got out of bed and test your method and it worked.. my dogs are happy and so am I. Thanks again.