I'm going to over answer your question in the hopes it may help someone else.
That headunit does not fit without some persuasion. My dash kit also needed to be filed down to accommodate this HU to my dash. I ended up grinding the bottom of the Hu bezel/frame to get the fit I needed. Cheap HU for the features so it was worth it even if grinding a new HU was torture to me.
Follow this post
here for really thorough instructions. I did my wiring a little different but this was a useful guide.
I used the same camera as the guy in that post. I started by installing the camera and then working my way towards the HU with wiring. I realized right away that I was not going to have enough wiring from the camera to install this cleanly though the hatch and grommets. (Fishing wires is what almost made me destroy humanity). I used fish tape to route wires through and it was crucial in my install.
Started above my headliner by running 24awg Black and Red from the driver side tail light access to above the headliner. From there the two wires were routed through the grommet in the hatch. Once the wires were in the hatch I continued to route down the drive side of the hatch (pain in the ass as it catches on a lot of stuff in a narrow channel).
Once my power and ground were in place, I began fishing the composite video cable(yellow plug) through the same path. This was super difficult, particular at the grommet. It is doable but take your time and go slow or you will rip the plug end off very easily. Once that cable was in place everything was connected/soldered/taped/zip tied within the hatch.
At this point I have 3 wires routed from my driver side tail light access hatch to my backup camera. I crimped on a very skinny male terminal connector to the power and ground wires (think male weatherpack pin but smaller gauge). At this point you need to identify the power and ground wires in the factory tail connector. Two people makes this easy, and safer, but I did it alone by putting my parking brake on and shifting into reverse so that my reverse light came on. I confirmed these wires by checking them again once I had shifted out of reverse. I slid the crimped on pins into the
back(wire side) of the connector and zip tied the lines together. To clarify, the red/black lines are what power the camera. You still need a trigger power wire to signal the HU.
While fishing the video cable I had ripped the plug end off at the tail light side. No big deal as it played into my plans just fine. I soldered on a female plug end to that and added my second video cable. The second cable is necessary to reach the front. I used
this video cable with integrated power wire to signal my HU and simplify my indash wiring. I connected my video cables together. Instead of ripping off the plug like a fool, you can simply use a male-female adapter or cable. The video power wire was added to the other red power wire in the tail light connector. When I switch to reverse, my reverse light powers the camera and triggers the HU. After that it was only a matter of routing the video cable from the rear light up the headliner and to the HU. I used a insulated male/female crimp connector to attach it to the Hu harness so that it was easily removed.
Tested everything and closed it all up!
Notes:
Got my fish tape stuck several times and
almost had to cut it off at one point
Had to reset the latch mechanism on my cargo hatch. No way to manually close it all the way without the powered assist. Put a dent in the hatch trying to shut it with some force only to realize I'm stupid.
For your HU there are settings to adjust the backup camera (attenuation, image mirroring, etc)
For your HU the backup camera can switch on before it fully boots up
For the
Joying HU I used their Toyota Highlander harness which allowed me to retain my Aux port. This can also be accomplished by other means but this was the easiest for me as it was all in one plug and play harness.