Bad CV angles?

Nimbostratus

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Just bought my 2012 SR5. It has a lift with just the stock wheels and tires. He was unsure what type of lift it is and I’m unsure as well. I’m concerned about the cv angles. Please tell me your thoughts and what I need to do. Thanks guys!
 

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That's pretty bad. I wonder how long it has been like that but I cannot imagine the boots will survive very much longer. The only fix is to reduce the amount of lift.
 
That's pretty bad. I wonder how long it has been like that but I cannot imagine the boots will survive very much longer. The only fix is to reduce the amount of lift.

A member of my family bought it over a year ago just like it sits now but with different wheels and tires. So I know the boots have been like that for at least year or so at a minimum. I just ordered some method mesh wheels (17x8.5) and 285/70/17 BFG KO2s. Just not sure 1) how to lower it 2) how much to lower it and still be able to run wheels and tires. It doesn’t appear to be more than 3 inches so not sure why they are so bad.
 
A member of my family bought it over a year ago just like it sits now but with different wheels and tires. So I know the boots have been like that for at least year or so at a minimum. I just ordered some method mesh wheels (17x8.5) and 285/70/17 BFG KO2s. Just not sure 1) how to lower it 2) how much to lower it and still be able to run wheels and tires. It doesn’t appear to be more than 3 inches so not sure why they are so bad.

I’m not sure you want to lower it. Now that you’ve bought 285’s you may rub like crazy if you take it back to stock height. I had a “4” spacer lift and it made my cv angles very similar to this. When full drooped it actually bound the cv and made the entire wheel buck... not good at all. Given the result of the spacer lift I bit the bullet and bought an adjustable coil over and UCA that gave me the same ride height as the spacer. Completely unknown to me how, but the coil over and UCA change complete softened the CV angle at 3.75” above stock rise height.
 

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I’m not sure you want to lower it. Now that you’ve bought 285’s you may rub like crazy if you take it back to stock height. I had a “4” spacer lift and it made my cv angles very similar to this. When full drooped it actually bound the cv and made the entire wheel buck... not good at all. Given the result of the spacer lift I bit the bullet and bought an adjustable coil over and UCA that gave me the same ride height as the spacer. Completely unknown to me how, but the coil over and UCA change complete softened the CV angle at 3.75” above stock rise height.

So what would you recommend I do?
 
So what would you recommend I do?
Dude I don’t know, all I can say is I had a spacer lift that preloaded the coil. It may be that the coilover (shown in picture) is adjusted way past the spring load threshold. I would NOT try to cram 285’s on if you are going to lower back to near stock or “level”

Does it have a lift on the rear?

If it doesn’t I would just level the truck and run a 265-275 max. Then you could at least unload some of that coil to lower it a little to lessen the angle on the cv.

Note: when and if you lower it, you’ll want to get the alignment checked. It’s recoomended to at least check it and obviously adjust if it’s way out.
 
Dude I don’t know, all I can say is I had a spacer lift that preloaded the coil. It may be that the coilover (shown in picture) is adjusted way past the spring load threshold. I would NOT try to cram 285’s on if you are going to lower back to near stock or “level”

Does it have a lift on the rear?

If it doesn’t I would just level the truck and run a 265-275 max. Then you could at least unload some of that coil to lower it a little to lessen the angle on the cv.

Note: when and if you lower it, you’ll want to get the alignment checked. It’s recoomended to at least check it and obviously adjust if it’s way out.

It appears to be level now. Doesn’t appear to be nose high at all. Not sure what the issue is or what to do
 
It appears to be level now. Doesn’t appear to be nose high at all. Not sure what the issue is or what to do

Believe it or not, this is exactly 1 inch taller in the front. The fenders lie. LoL. I’m really not sure either bud. I hate to say to throw more money at it. The only thing you can do to try and relieve the joint angle is to lower it a little bit and monitor the angle as you take it down.
 

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Believe it or not, this is exactly 1 inch taller in the front. The fenders lie. LoL. I’m really not sure either bud. I hate to say to throw more money at it. The only thing you can do to try and relieve the joint angle is to lower it a little bit and monitor the angle as you take it down.

I’m still confused on what exactly you did to make your angles better... lol
I’ve already got adjustable coilovers and I’m shorter than you are. On paper my angles should be better. It’s not like I’m running a 4 inch spacer lift.
 
I’m still confused on what exactly you did to make your angles better... lol
I’ve already got adjustable coilovers and I’m shorter than you are. On paper my angles should be better. It’s not like I’m running a 4 inch spacer lift.

I know... the only thing I can say, which is pure speculation is that the add of the particular coilover I decided to run changed some sort of geometry. I do not have any technical data on how. Oh duh, here’s the best question and thing you can look for, OMG I’m an idiot... check to see if you have a diff spacer set installed... :sorry: you may be able to see it without taking the front skid plate on, it would be just below the front cross member. These are 1.5” sleeves with extended bolts, the kit should come with spacers for the skid pan as well..
 

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I’m still confused on what exactly you did to make your angles better... lol
I’ve already got adjustable coilovers and I’m shorter than you are. On paper my angles should be better. It’s not like I’m running a 4 inch spacer lift.

I think getting some bigger tires will help, don’t ask me how. I’d get them installed and take it from there.
 
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That is a bad angle, install a diff drop kit. They are cheap and easy to install. If that doesn’t help enough lower the front coil overs until it gets where it needs to be.
 
You need to see if yours has a diff drop first. Might be the answer to this issue and still keep your new tires and wheels. Otherwise, you gotta pay to play, just run them as is and deal with changing the boots when they start to leak.
 
Diff drops (really diff angle changers on these trucks) don't help CV angles enough to notice.. they just fubar the pinion angle which raises potential for breakage. The risk is not worth the reward IMHO.

Your CV angles are probably fine... The only reason people worry about this is that it is something they can easily see and the old school 3rd gen.... boots used to tear very easily. It can still happen.... just keep lift around 3" and you should be fine.

Looks like you can easily lower it. Not sure what type of coil overs those are though.

You don't need any lift to run 285s.

To clarify, this is just my opinion. I can't really verify anything from just looking at a picture.
 
Those look like the toytec adjustable collars on bilstein 5100's, but the spring is black instead of red or silver. There a lot of threads showing if it is the toytec collar.
 
Errr, 285’s will rub like a mofo. There’s no way I could not run the stt’s Without a bunch of chop... Just saying

Lifts don't typically clear bigger tires on IFS (unless you extend the bump stops.). If they do.. it is just for street use and you will get the same rub when using the full travel off the suspension off-road. Clearing more tire on IFS involves alignment and trimming of plastics. Body mount chop when you go over 33". Most 285s are easy to clear with 0 lift, but it will also depend on the wheel size and offset.
 
Lifts don't typically clear bigger tires on IFS (unless you extend the bump stops.). If they do.. it is just for street use and you will get the same rub when using the full travel off the suspension off-road. Clearing more tire on IFS involves alignment and trimming of plastics. Body mount chop when you go over 33". Most 285s are easy to clear with 0 lift, but it will also depend on the wheel size and offset.
With my caster and camber now back to where it should be I clear all around full compress or full droop. I did trim plastic but no body mount chop. The stt is 33.03 at the 285 so that makes sense. I just can’t imagine my truck clearing the 285 stts with no
Lift. But that being said I didn’t try so hahaha. As you stated the average mall crawler won’t matter. I’m really happy right where I’m at with mine with no rub. I still just can’t see how it would clear! You prolly right though hah!

Side note: I spoke with Icon about why I’m getting more than the 3.5 “ indicated on the product specs. He indicated that he has been getting calls from a fair amount of people where the later year sr5 model randomly set lower than other models and those folks are also reporting better cv angles with or without the diff spacer. I still have about 7/8” more actual lift from the threads on the co without exceeding the max spring load. It rides awesome and handles awesome. Maybe I just got lucky.
 
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