Bad front wheel bearing?

D

d33pt

New member
When I rock the tire holding at 12 and 6 o'clock, I get quite a bit of play. About 1/8" with a clunk. Same at 3 and 9 o'clock. When I spin the tire, it feels "coarse" or rough, best I can describe it. There is the usual disc brake drag, but it doesn't feel as smooth as the other side.

Truck has 214k miles. Other side is perfectly smooth when spun and no play with rocking. Rears are also tight.

I've never replaced front bearings before. What's the consensus? Only OEM parts? Any good guides on doing this?
 
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I replaced mine myself. Wasn’t too bad. I’m not a fan of the typical aftermarket brands like Dorman, Moog or Timkem. Those brands never lasted for me on other vehicles I have owned. You will get varying opinions on that though.

I got my bearing assembly from Bluepit. You can buy a new bearing itself but you will need to press it out of your existing hub and then reinstall. That will require a press though.

See my old thread for additional info when I did mine.


Another wheel bearing question???
 
d33pt said:
When I rock the tire holding at 12 and 6 o'clock, I get quite a bit of play. About 1/8" with a clunk. Same at 3 and 9 o'clock. When I spin the tire, it feels "coarse" or rough, best I can describe it. There is the usual disc brake drag, but it doesn't feel as smooth as the other side.

Truck has 214k miles. Other side is perfectly smooth when spun and no play with rocking. Rears are also tight.

I've never replaced front bearings before. What's the consensus? Only OEM parts? Any good guides on doing this?
Click to expand...

I would say YES, that side is cooked. I would replace both front wheel bearings at once. I have been running TRQ front wheel bearings for several years now with zero issue!!
 
I had to replace both of my frt wheel bearings not long after 200k miles. Replaced one side and a few month later the other started acting up. Went with OEM.
 
MikeinNH67 said:
Sounds like a bearing to me. Assuming you are wanting the hub/bearing assembly, the options for non-china bearings are limited. If you can find one with a Japan made bearing, that is your best bet. Here's a quick video for a tip on pulling the assembly.

GEN 4 Toyota 4Runner Front Bearing Replacement Tips! - YouTube
Click to expand...

I'll probably get a Napa lifetime warranty hub assembly for about $200. Just the bearing from toyota is already around that much, and I'd have to press it out. Doesn't look too hard to swap out if you get the whole assembly. The truck in that video is sooo crusty. Mine should be a breeze.
 
d33pt said:
I'll probably get a Napa lifetime warranty hub assembly for about $200. Just the bearing from toyota is already around that much, and I'd have to press it out. Doesn't look too hard to swap out if you get the whole assembly. The truck in that video is sooo crusty. Mine should be a breeze.
Click to expand...

That would be my truck and that is what we deal with up here.
 
I ordered a set of built hubs to swap in. I've been told that I need these seals.

Knuckle....90316-A0001
CV............90304-A0001

Where do they go during the install? I did see a pic of a seal behind the backing plate I think it was. Would that be the knuckle seal? How about the CV seal?
 
One seal is on the back side of the knuckle and seals against the CV. The other one looks like it's part of the hub assembly and is only needed if you replace just the bearing and not the whole unit. BTW, the last assembly I bought came with the knuckle seal.
 
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Did the passenger side of my '05 4R w/V8 2 months ago when I noticed movement while changing out a bad ABS sensor. Did driver side 5 years ago when wheel contacted curb and bent hub. Its the wheel bearing for sure when you've got movement at all 4 clock positions. R&R is pretty straight forward/easy if the hub is not rusted bad to the knuckle ( watch video from Eric the CarGuy on YT. He had a hell of a time for the hub removal part ). Tip: if your dust shields are not in the best of shape, I'll recommend to change them when you're doing the hub switch. They fit between hub flange and knuckle. I got them from Toyota dealership cos they were nowhere to be found otherwise. Bearing w/hub assembly from RockAuto. Many choices from cheap to pricey if you decide to stay away from dealership.

You'll need a long cheater bar to undo the hub nut. Socket size I believe is 35 mm if memory serves me correctly. !/2 " drives are adequate. Install torque for this nut is like 260 ft.lbs. I maxed out my torque wrench @ 250 and gave it a bit extra.

Happy wrenching to you & season's greetings to all.
 
4R005 said:
Did the passenger side of my '05 4R w/V8 2 months ago when I noticed movement while changing out a bad ABS sensor. Did driver side 5 years ago when wheel contacted curb and bent hub. Its the wheel bearing for sure when you've got movement at all 4 clock positions. R&R is pretty straight forward/easy if the hub is not rusted bad to the knuckle ( watch video from Eric the CarGuy on YT. He had a hell of a time for the hub removal part ). Tip: if your dust shields are not in the best of shape, I'll recommend to change them when you're doing the hub switch. They fit between hub flange and knuckle. I got them from Toyota dealership cos they were nowhere to be found otherwise. Bearing w/hub assembly from RockAuto. Many choices from cheap to pricey if you decide to stay away from dealership.

You'll need a long cheater bar to undo the hub nut. Socket size I believe is 35 mm if memory serves me correctly. !/2 " drives are adequate. Install torque for this nut is like 260 ft.lbs. I maxed out my torque wrench @ 250 and gave it a bit extra.

Happy wrenching to you & season's greetings to all.
Click to expand...


Appreciate the good tips here! Got to replace my left front bearing real soon.


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I did this job on my 04 a few months back. 4R005 is correct, it's a 35mm socket. The FSM states the torque on the axle nut is 173ft lbs.

If you have an impact gun, it will make your life easier getting that bolt off. Otherwise, a longer breaker bar is required. To get to that 173 ft lbs torque, you will need a bigger torque wrench. Most common torque wrench used typically goes up to 150 ft lbs, and even still that's a challenge.

I bought a Tekton torque wrench off amazon that did the job very well:
Amazon.com

I think the 35mm socket I bought is also from TekTon.

I also attached a section from the FSM that covers all the torque values:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/101093304@N07/53399616303/in/dateposted-public/" title="Screenshot 2023-12-15 at 8.30.13 AM"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53399616303_8969d3bc76_c.jpg" width="690" height="800" alt="Screenshot 2023-12-15 at 8.30.13 AM"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

It's not a difficult job. There's several YouTube videos out there on how to do this.
 
It's an easy repair

Hello everyone. I am new to the forum. I replaced both front bearing assemblies last week. It took me 45 minutes per side with basic tools. Although you will need a 36mm socket for the axle nut.
Also, after I did the repair for the bearings, both sides still had movement. it turns out that my bushings for my lower control arms were done. Had to replace the lower control arms each side. Another easy repair. Now the front end is great!
Just have to replace my blown transfer case now.
 
At that mileage, I would also recommend changing the LBJs. They are most likely worn out too. I bought Pro forged from rockauto but Im not sure they still sell them. Made in USA and million mile warranty. This thread was helpful.

proforged LBJ

How I replaced lower ball joints on FJ | Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

Here is a good thread on replacing the front wheel bearings.
front hub bearing R&R

Orig thread minus pictures. *How to* - front wheel bearing replacement | TTORA Forum

Look for made in Japan like NSK bearings rockauto $56 each

2007 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.0L V6 Wheel Bearing | RockAuto
 
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[MENTION=766841]R4Adventure[/MENTION] Its 150 and not 250 ft. lbs. My bad, a senior moment. Apologies.
[MENTION=734475]d33pt[/MENTION] No specs for the 4 bolts. Space is limited to only a 17mm box wrench to undo/install.
 
4R005 said:
[MENTION=766841]R4Adventure[/MENTION] Its 150 and not 250 ft. lbs. My bad, a senior moment. Apologies.

[MENTION=734475]d33pt[/MENTION] No specs for the 4 bolts. Space is limited to only a 17mm box wrench to undo/install.
Click to expand...

I guess those bolts are not that important? Since the whole thing is held in by the big center nut.
 
d33pt said:
I guess those bolts are not that important? Since the whole thing is held in by the big center nut.
Click to expand...

No! the 4 bolts hold the bearing & wheel hub assembly to the knuckle assembly and must be tightened.
Just that the wheel hub/bearing unit are such closely joined together that these bolt heads accessibility are very restricted and only a box wrench can fit over them. Even then as you undo the bolts, it can only move out a little and the whole hub/bearing unit has to move out with it i.e. away from the knuckle assembly.
These 4 bolts cannot be removed/separated completely from the hub/bearing unit ( unless the hub and bearing are separated with a press).
If you check RockAuto catalogue for this hub/bearing unit it'll be easier to visualize. Note: two types of front wheel bearing/hub units. The 4x4 and the RW drive only are not the same and not interchangeable.

The bearing and the wheel hub if bought separately will require a shop press to join them together with the 4 bolts already in place in the bearing flange.
 
d33pt said:
I guess those bolts are not that important? Since the whole thing is held in by the big center nut.
Click to expand...

Those bolts are super important, the big center nut only holds the CV in place unlike cars of old and trailers.

4R005 said:
No! the 4 bolts hold the bearing & wheel hub assembly to the knuckle assembly and must be tightened.
Just that the wheel hub/bearing unit are such closely joined together that these bolt heads accessibility are very restricted and only a box wrench can fit over them. Even then as you undo the bolts, it can only move out a little and the whole hub/bearing unit has to move out with it i.e. away from the knuckle assembly.
Click to expand...

This is where a geared box end wrench shines.
 
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