Bad Luck's Boring Build Biography

[RandyBobandy]

I suspect that or chain issues. Jumping teeth or jamming. I haven't seen any transfer issues in any of mine all these years. I know heavy off roading can brake those along with other things..



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[MENTION=693474]Yeti2k3[/MENTION] thought I did that to his transfer case while trying to get his locker to work

 

[brillo_76]

[MENTION=693474]Yeti2k3[/MENTION] thought I did that to his transfer case while trying to get his locker to work

Boy was he mad when his 4wd wouldn't activate.

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[Bad Luck]

Developed a terrible vibration from the rear end on Friday (4/1) on my way to work in the morning. Pulled it onto the rack and verified vibration was coming from rear differential. Pulled it back outside so I could work and spent the rest of the day thinking about my options.

Pulled the 4Runner back on the rack that afternoon. Drained the diff fluid and checked the fluid for color and condition. Fluid looked brand new with hardly any metal flecks in it so I decided to gamble and replace the side bearings. Ordered the carrier bearings (9036650007) Friday from Toyota dealership next door. Picked them up Saturday, but the bearing puller I ordered from Amazon didn't get delivered until late Saturday.

Pulled the rear diff on Sunday, and checked the backlash/preload before disassembly. Backlash was 7 thou and pinion preload was around 30 in/lb to start (very high) but was around 7 in/lb once it was spinning. Pinion bearing felt notchy as well. Not a good sign, but I couldn't return the carrier bearings since they were special ordered. Old carrier bearings felt and looked fine.

Went ahead and replaced the carrier bearings. Final backlash was 5.5 thou. Spec is 5-7 thou. Reassembled and test drove it on the lift. The noise from the rear end was still there, but the vibration was gone. I'm not sure what happened or why, but I highly doubt it was replacing the carrier bearings that fixed it.

Since I'm retarded not rich I'm going to keep running this rear diff until the vibration comes back.

 

[brillo_76]

From what a gathered. Over the years. The weak spot in these diffs is the ring and Pinon. I just pulled the 3rd member out of this rusted housing. As it was noisy.

The carrier and spider assembly at a visual Glace looked fine. [283k ] on it. The pinion gear looks really polished. My guess along with randybodady is the Pinon shaft bearings have play. The upper one doesn't seem to. Yet I can feel play in the Pinon and ring gear. Thus I think where my noise was coming from. I didn't pull the 3rd member into pieces to verify.

My guess is my Pinon and ring gear have wear from it.

What I did. 70k miles ago was switch to locus heavy duty oil stabilizer to help reduce the noise as my housing was leaking too.

In my case, I believe the PO ran it low in gear grease a few times.


In your case, I suspect the transfer case explosion may have jarred or damaged something in the member.

The carrier looks good?

To fix this, your probably need to replace your Pinon bearings and verify your gear mesh is good..

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[RandyBobandy]

Good news is non locking diffs are incredibly cheap and easy to find at a pick and pull. Is the ratio in this one 3.90? I bet if you find someone local who swapped to a locker they’d give you the old diff

 

[Bad Luck]

From what a gathered. Over the years. The weak spot in these diffs is the ring and Pinon. I just pulled the 3rd member out of this rusted housing. As it was noisy.

The carrier and spider assembly at a visual Glace looked fine. [283k ] on it. The pinion gear looks really polished. My guess along with randybodady is the Pinon shaft bearings have play. The upper one doesn't seem to. Yet I can feel play in the Pinon and ring gear. Thus I think where my noise was coming from. I didn't pull the 3rd member into pieces to verify.

My guess is my Pinon and ring gear have wear from it.

What I did. 70k miles ago was switch to locus heavy duty oil stabilizer to help reduce the noise as my housing was leaking too.

In my case, I believe the PO ran it low in gear grease a few times.


In your case, I suspect the transfer case explosion may have jarred or damaged something in the member.

The carrier looks good?

To fix this, your probably need to replace your Pinon bearings and verify your gear mesh is good..

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Carrier looks great. Ring and pinion had a good wear pattern and the teeth looked really good. Nice, crisp edges to the teeth.

I agree on the transfer case explosion probably damaging the rear diff. There was still a good chunk of the driveshaft still attached to the pinion flange so the pinion bearing probably saw some violence during that fiasco.

Good news is non locking diffs are incredibly cheap and easy to find at a pick and pull. Is the ratio in this one 3.90? I bet if you find someone local who swapped to a locker they’d give you the old diff

I'm having a surprisingly hard time finding a used rear diff. I'm 4.10 which is really common ratio for 4wd 3rd Gen 4Runners/1st Gen Tacomas. All the pick n pulls are picked clean of the very few ones that would have one. Even car-part.com wants $600 or more for a used diff. Talk about a rip off. If I'm lucky this one will hold out long enough for me to find a used one for sale on marketplace/craigslist/classifieds.

 

[HiLife]

Carrier looks great. Ring and pinion had a good wear pattern and the teeth looked really good. Nice, crisp edges to the teeth.

I agree on the transfer case explosion probably damaging the rear diff. There was still a good chunk of the driveshaft still attached to the pinion flange so the pinion bearing probably saw some violence during that fiasco.



I'm having a surprisingly hard time finding a used rear diff. I'm 4.10 which is really common ratio for 4wd 3rd Gen 4Runners/1st Gen Tacomas. All the pick n pulls are picked clean of the very few ones that would have one. Even car-part.com wants $600 or more for a used diff. Talk about a rip off. If I'm lucky this one will hold out long enough for me to find a used one for sale on marketplace/craigslist/classifieds.

It's different in the south. I've read about your lucky pick and pull hauls up north, I'm very envious on what items your able to get on one trip.
Our local pick and pull dried up when 4runner prices rose. For a good 5 months there were zero 4runners available for parts. Even before that, having a 4wd available for parts were far and in-between.

But now in 2022, seems like the spigot for 4runners in the local pick and pulls are slowly flowing again for higher prices though.

 

[phattyduck]

Even car-part.com wants $600 or more for a used diff. Talk about a rip off.

You can have my original 3.73 rear diff for much less than that if you want... :lmao:

-Charlie

 

[brillo_76]

[MENTION=8262]badluck[/MENTION]. You want my 4.10 i pulled out of mine for parts? Its housing is not perfect and it still spins. Maybe able to use it for pieces as I not going to use it.

I can send some photos of it if you wish. Not sure what it would cost to ship it to you as its kinda on the heavy side.

 

[Bad Luck]

You can have my original 3.73 rear diff for much less than that if you want... :lmao:

-Charlie

I'd get better fuel economy for sure with that lol

[MENTION=8262]badluck[/MENTION]. You want my 4.10 i pulled out of mine for parts? Its housing is not perfect and it still spins. Maybe able to use it for pieces as I not going to use it.

I can send some photos of it if you wish. Not sure what it would cost to ship it to you as its kinda on the heavy side.

I appreciate the offer, and I may take you up on it later. But for now I'm going to try and look for one locally that doesn't need to be rebuilt. I've sent a couple messages to toyota part outs in the area.

 

[brillo_76]

Well if you get stuck. Let us know and I see if I can talk [MENTION=318903]RandyBobandy[/MENTION] into helping pulling one out for you.

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[Bad Luck]

An online inventory for me to reference later. I have a bad habit of purchasing parts for repairs and then waiting a long time to actually do the repairs. It doesn't help that I'm in the middle of remodeling my kitchen/dining room myself.

I have parts to do the following repairs:
-Alternator brush
-Rear axle seals/retainers/wheel bearings
-Engine air filter (x2)
-Transfer case input seal/transmission output seal
-Transfer case shifter gaskets/deflector
-Transfer case neutral and low switch deletes
-Gentex 453 rearview mirror w/temp sensor and compass
-New transmission
-Reverse switch for new transmission
-Brackets/hoses for rear disc conversion
-Relays for possible radio on while cranking modification
-Shifter seats/bushings for transmission and transfer case shifters
-Bonus transmission parts
-Rear rotors for 4th/5th gen 4Runner

I still need to get:
-Flywheel/clutch/pressure plate
-Brake pads/calipers/caliper brackets and bolts for '94-'04 Mustang Cobra
-Front and rear braided brake lines
-Time to install all this stuff

Rear disc brake conversion part numbers
19389656 acdelco gold rear brake pad kit w/hardware for cobra mustang $58
19391183 acdelco silver rear brake pad kit w/hardware for cobra mustang $23

 

[phattyduck]

I keep a notes file on each of my cars for that very reason...

Parts acquired, repairs needed, mods desired, etc.

Or I walk out to the garage and go, "Oh! I still have that!" And then figure out when I'm going to install it...

-Charlie

 

[brillo_76]

I do like Charlie. I exactly have a spreadsheet tab for each vehicle. Along with an inventory tab of the parts I have in stock to try to keep myself organized.

It's a work on progress as alot of my used parts are not on my inventory yet.




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[Bad Luck]

5/13/2022 202867 miles
-Removed old floormats, vacuumed floormats/carpet, and install Weathertech floormats front and rear. $217
-Replaced worn ignition cylinder with new ignition cylinder coded by local locksmith. $50 recode ignition cylinder. Ignition cylinder 69057-35070 and 4 blank keys 90999-00185 $95
-Modified old key to only work in door locks and not ignition. $FREE

After being stranded at my bank for a few minutes before my ignition decided it would turn I decided that today was the day to replace the ignition cylinder. Replacement was a breeze and the new key works great.

When I got the new cylinder recoded by my local locksmith I asked about modifying a key to only work in the doors. According to his magical reference book the door lock cylinders use either 7 or 8 of the 8 tumblers so I decided to file down the key where the outer most tumbler would be if there were 8 tumblers (closest to the key handle). Luckily for me it works in all the doors and the rear hatch, but not the ignition. Why does this matter? Because I plan on hiding a key on the vehicle in case I lock my keys inside/etc. If someone finds it they can get in, but at least they can't use it to start the engine and drive off. Makes me feel better about hiding a key on the vehicle.

Vacuumed out the floor mats (which were in great condition because the previous owner put floormats over the factory floormats) and installed the weathertech floor liners in black that I ordered a couple of weeks ago. I had tan weathertechs in the previous 4Runner, but I think the black floormats are a nice contrast to the tan carpet.

 

[Bad Luck]

It's also been unseasonably hot here the last few days (low to mid 90's), and I've had my coolant temp alarm go off a couple times. The alarm is set at 210*F so not a big deal, but my old 4Runner would rarely get above 194*F. I suspect the thermostat is at 12 o'clock instead of 6 o'clock. The coolant is also green coolant instead of Toyota red and a coolant flush has been on my to do list. I've been debating on radiators as well. I don't have an automatic so no pink milkshake worries or a requirement to have a transmission cooler so I'm debating between Koyo and Denso. I didn't have any problems with the Denso I used in the previous 4Runner, and I'm sure the Koyo is overkill for what I need. Buuuuuuuuut the Koyo does look magnificent!

 

[spartacus]

It's also been unseasonably hot here the last few days (low to mid 90's), and I've had my coolant temp alarm go off a couple times. The alarm is set at 210*F so not a big deal, but my old 4Runner would rarely get above 194*F. I suspect the thermostat is at 12 o'clock instead of 6 o'clock. The coolant is also green coolant instead of Toyota red and a coolant flush has been on my to do list. I've been debating on radiators as well. I don't have an automatic so no pink milkshake worries or a requirement to have a transmission cooler so I'm debating between Koyo and Denso. I didn't have any problems with the Denso I used in the previous 4Runner, and I'm sure the Koyo is overkill for what I need. Buuuuuuuuut the Koyo does look magnificent!

I've been parelleling maintenance items off of your build and maintenance.
Which koyo are you looking at. Have you considered champion all aluminium?

 

[brillo_76]

Thanks for the bulld update. As aluminum starts to oxidize it will not transfer the heat as well. Once you see fins starting to deteriorate on your rad or Condenser replace them. As your loosing the heat transfer ability. You probably know this but I figured worth mentioning to users reading this. Great tip on lock cylinders. Thanks for sharing..

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[Bad Luck]

I've been parelleling maintenance items off of your build and maintenance.
Which koyo are you looking at. Have you considered champion all aluminium?

I looked into the champion, but most of the reviews say that the mounting tabs are in the wrong spot and have to be bent out of the way. Several reviews say the nuts don’t line up with that factory bolt holes. It has a transmission cooler unlike the Koyo if that’s a determining factor for you or not. I don’t need it so I’d prefer not to have it. One less thing to go wrong and whatnot. I like to include part numbers and prices for anyone that might need them. I know there’s been a few times I’ve had to ask.

Thanks for the bulld update. As aluminum starts to oxidize it will not transfer the heat as well. Once you see fins starting to deteriorate on your rad or Condenser replace them. As your loosing the heat transfer ability. You probably know this but I figured worth mentioning to users reading this. Great tip on lock cylinders. Thanks for sharing..

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I’m collecting parts faster than I can find time to install them lol! I wish I had a FLIR gun so I could see how bad the radiator actually is. I looked through the maintenance receipt folder but didn’t see radiator replacement so I’m willing to bet it’s the original. Good info on the oxidation and heat transfer. I towed a little utility trailer to my storage unit and back after work today. Probably 1500 lbs total for 15 miles. During that time my ultragauge showed my coolant temps got up to 223*F so I’m leaning more towards overkill with Koyo. I’m sure Denso would be fine but it’ll make me feel better for no good reason lol

 

[octanejunkie]

I'm also stockpiling parts for much of the same maintenance on my 4WD - the difference being I have zero maintenance records from the PO and it's not my DD or even close to it so I haven't noticed any high coolant temps, yet.

Mine had black Husky floor mats in it when I bought it, very similar to weathertech in style and fit albeit thinner. I swapped them out for the tan weathertechs from my 2WD. Thankfully the carpet in my rig is also in excellent shape thanks to the POs Husky mats.

I'm curious about the Koyo radiator (I bought a Denso from Longo Toyota) and I too have a 5-speed and don't need the trans cooler...

I've been waiting to do the rad swap and flush, and will also change from green juice to red juice and eliminate the rear heater & core in the process. I don't see myself using it much in SoCal. I was waiting for the timing belt replacement as not to have to drain the system twice and I haven't felt rushed to do that job yet. I've been focused on suspension work and ancillary electrical projects.

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