Ok, Thats what I was talking about with the rim. You think it may hit the tire instead.
Ill find out.
Or just make sure you move nothing after removing the OTRE and adjust till it fits into the mounting hole on the ball joint arm.
Ball Joints
- Thread starter Singtoe
- Start date
Ok, Thats what I was talking about with the rim. You think it may hit the tire instead.
Ill find out.
Or just make sure you move nothing after removing the OTRE and adjust till it fits into the mounting hole on the ball joint arm.
Drcoffee
Senior Member
I held up the newer OTRE to my 4runner and it looks like it will be close with about 1/4"-1/2" of space to the rim. I'm thinking the 16" rims may just clear the bend in the OTRE.
Since there is no guarantee the LBJ are exactly the same between the Tacoma and 4runner (one is bigger than the other, I'm also going to measure from the ITRE to the dust shield. Pick a point for repeatable measurement but if the tie rods and ball joints are worn out you will have some Play. the dust shield is a solid point of reference in a direct line from the ITRE.
Toyota of Dallas has very good pricing on OEM parts. There's no reason to go aftermarket with only a few dollars difference.
Since there is no guarantee the LBJ are exactly the same between the Tacoma and 4runner (one is bigger than the other, I'm also going to measure from the ITRE to the dust shield. Pick a point for repeatable measurement but if the tie rods and ball joints are worn out you will have some Play. the dust shield is a solid point of reference in a direct line from the ITRE.
Toyota of Dallas has very good pricing on OEM parts. There's no reason to go aftermarket with only a few dollars difference.
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Gerdo
New member
Please don't go here. True 555 makes a lot of parts sold under other names. But they are not the same quality and will not last like the OE ones do.
PitbullRescuer
New member
Not going to reread all 17 pages but is someone having problems going the Taco LBJ/OTRE route or just questioning if it will work? I have the Taco parts on my 4Runner, absolutely zero issues with them.
Gerdo
New member
So I helped a friend that just did the Taco BJs, OTREs. At full lock, the Taco OTRE hits the swaybar mounts (both sides) before it hits the wheel stops.
Anyone else have this issue?
Does yours hit the swaybar mounts like shown in the picture above?
Not looking to get into an internet argument...
But I rather think the actual scenario is that 555 makes the same parts and contracts with various manufacturers to sell them under their own name. This is quite common in the global marketplace.
Various internet searches do in fact bring up people saying "X" parts don't last like OE. What I have failed to find, at least to my satisfaction, is that "X" parts have failed in a higher than average rate compared to OE. The issue is, IMO, not all things are equal. Ive found a handful of accounts where people replace their parts with aftermarket and have had a failure that occurs sooner than what would be expected. If one contrasts that to the thousands of other folks that have replaced with aftermarket parts and are still driving on said parts. We'll never actually know because the folks that do not have issues, we never hear from. And the average person on the street that takes their car to the local garage don't know the different between OE and aftermarket, and probably don't care.
Another issue is the "555 brand under a different name is still not as good as OE" has not been substantiated. Yes I have read the arguments that true 555 stuff, things you might get from the dealer, are probably
a) heat treated
b) have tighter tolerances
c) and on and on
All speculation unless someone has first hand manufacturing knowledge of 2 different parts that have 555 in the casting, but come from different labels.
I also do not buy into the "555 parts in a MOOG box did not meet the tolerances to be sold under the 555 brand." Again, all speculation.
PitbullRescuer
New member
Nope. Tight but doesnt hit either side.
Rockdawg84
New member
Just checked mine and I am just touching the OTRE and the Swaybar mount at the very moment the LBJ hits the steering stop. I will be grinding the Swaybar mount tomorrow to ensure that there is no touching. :hatsoff:
Weejub
New member
Guys - I gotta order new ball joints all around and I guess at this point, I am going back with 4Runner. 
PO stretched the system way past were it should go (4-4.5" on the front) and in the process ruined the UBJ, the OTRE and probably the LBJ (not taking any chances).
If we get this figured out prior to doing my wife's 4Runner, I may try the Taco parts, going forward!
Am I "wrong" for doing this?
PO stretched the system way past were it should go (4-4.5" on the front) and in the process ruined the UBJ, the OTRE and probably the LBJ (not taking any chances).
If we get this figured out prior to doing my wife's 4Runner, I may try the Taco parts, going forward!
Am I "wrong" for doing this?
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
No way! Im not that familiar with the campus as I didnt go to school there. What do you do at King hall?
madbomber08
New member
How come some are having issues with the OTRE hitting the sway bar mount and others not?? I don't get it. Does a lift have something to do with it?
I haven't checked mine because I rarely turn to full lock but this is going to bug me if I find out there is contact somewhere.
I haven't checked mine because I rarely turn to full lock but this is going to bug me if I find out there is contact somewhere.
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Rockdawg84
New member
because the sway bar mount is welded on to the LCA and if it is off just a little then it will hit just a little or miss just a little. Not a huge issue even a BFH will take care of it or a sawsall will give lots of room. I have not been running a front Sway bar since I got my 2.5 inch kings, but some will need a swaybar and to hammer or grinder will be in order.
Rockdawg84
New member
So I sawzalled my swaybar lower mounts before I went and got the alignment done. I have to say that the feel is good and I obviously have no rubbing. And interestingly the tire no longer rubs on the frame at full lock so I would think that means I have lost some turning radius but driving it seems to have increased. Not sure how that works:shrug::shrug::shrug:
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Drcoffee
Senior Member
To all you engineer types, It looks like Toyota puts a lithium based MP grease in the joints. Would there be any reason why I can't repack them with a Synthetic Moly grease before installing them? I'm asking about grease compatibility. Somehow I think this may be part of planned obsolesence to use a lesser grease. I've also read that sealed joints have polymer parts that need a specific grease which is why they have no zirk.
What say you?
What say you?
Drcoffee
Senior Member
Not to stir the pot here but this isn't a thread on stock 4runner LBJs.
We're all happy for your good fortune though. :reddance:
..............Now back to our regularly scheduled program
Drcoffee
Senior Member
I just finished up with installing the TACO LBJ and OTRE and what should have been a 2 hour R&R took 6 hours. The jamb nut on my tie rod would not budge and after spending way too much time on it, I cut off the nut with the dremel disc. Did you know Toyota does not include a new jamb nut? Me neither. So I had to run to ACE hardwware for two replacements before moving to the other side.
I tried the Right OTRE on the Left side and it does hit the wheel. That's a no-go.
My tie rod also hits the sway bar bracket just at the very end of travel. Nothing the sawzall can't remedy. Took a 1/4" off the upper corner and now have at least 1/4 clearance lock to lock. Cleaned it up with the file. The truck feels tighter but that could be just putting new parts on. I just feel better having beefier parts on the truck. I'm glad you guys figured it out and shared it on the forum. Thanks.
Here is a side by side view of the LBJ (new right side with old left side). There is a bit of a dog-leg to the TACO ball joint. Didn't seem to cause any problems. I also re-packed the joints with Valvoline Durablend grease. I believe I read it has 1% Moly. As usual, the factory did not have enough grease in the OTRE and LBJ, so now they are ready for the next 200K miles.
From the way the ball joint boots crumbled, I'd say they were original.
One more observation. I have slightly warped rotors and they were shaking something fierce when braking. That has been greatly reduced with the new parts. Never got around to the rear shocks today or the CatClamp. Maybe next weekend.
How tight did you torque the 4 ball joint bolts to? 59 (corrected) seems excessive and 37 seem too light.
I tried the Right OTRE on the Left side and it does hit the wheel. That's a no-go.
My tie rod also hits the sway bar bracket just at the very end of travel. Nothing the sawzall can't remedy. Took a 1/4" off the upper corner and now have at least 1/4 clearance lock to lock. Cleaned it up with the file. The truck feels tighter but that could be just putting new parts on. I just feel better having beefier parts on the truck. I'm glad you guys figured it out and shared it on the forum. Thanks.
Here is a side by side view of the LBJ (new right side with old left side). There is a bit of a dog-leg to the TACO ball joint. Didn't seem to cause any problems. I also re-packed the joints with Valvoline Durablend grease. I believe I read it has 1% Moly. As usual, the factory did not have enough grease in the OTRE and LBJ, so now they are ready for the next 200K miles.
From the way the ball joint boots crumbled, I'd say they were original.
One more observation. I have slightly warped rotors and they were shaking something fierce when braking. That has been greatly reduced with the new parts. Never got around to the rear shocks today or the CatClamp. Maybe next weekend.
How tight did you torque the 4 ball joint bolts to? 59 (corrected) seems excessive and 37 seem too light.
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