Bandit Runner wants to re-gear his diffs

[Bandit Runner]

This will be by far my most expensive mod to date (and probably ever), so I started this thread to make sure I’m doing it right and not screwing anything up. Plus others can hopefully make use of this in the future.

So I’m wanting to regear my front & rear diffs to make up some of the lost power after moving up to 35” tires. My truck is my daily driver and weekend wheeler. Most of the miles I put on it are tooling around town, with the occasional highway jaunt. The only towing I plan on doing is a small utility or camping trailer. Also, my truck is fully armored, and fairly heavy. Most of my wheeling is in soft sand and mud, with some steep hill climbs. Occasionally I’ll go to an off-road park and do some mild rock crawling. I did a ton of research, and it appears that 5.29’s would be the appropriate gear ratio for my auto trans rig.

Question #1: Does anybody think that 5.29’s are not the best gear ratio for my scenario?

So my plan is to purchase fully assembled rear third member and front clamshell diffs with the gears already set up from East Coast Gear Supply. Here is what I plan on ordering from ECGS:

Front: Tacoma 7.5 Reverse Clamshell 3rd Member Assembly

The options on the front are pretty straight forward.

Rear: Toyota V6 8''- Pickup, 4runner,FJ Criuser

Here is what I believe is correct for the rear options:

ABS Diff = No ABS (According to Chase at ECGS)

Flange Style = ’05+ Double Drilled Flange (According to Chase at ECGS)

Solid Spacer = Yes, it is cheap insurance. (According to Chase at ECGS)

Question #2: Does anybody see anything wrong with what I am ordering?

So, I know that this would also be the best time to put lockers in the diff(s). I would like to get the ARB air locker in the rear for sure, and quite possibly one in the front too. For the type of wheeling I do, a front locker probably isn’t absolutely necessary, but I heard that it makes the front diff a lot stronger, and I’m all for that. Plus, you never know, I might get into a bad situation, and it would be nice to have the option of locking the front. So I’ll do front and rear ARB’s if I can swing it, along with the ARB high output compressor.

Now, I’m no mechanic, so my buddy (who actually is a mechanic) will be helping me with installing the diffs. He mentioned that we should replace the rear axle seals while we’re in there. So we’ll be doing that too. I believe that the new front diff comes with new seals already installed.

Question #3: Are there any preventive maintenance items that should be replaced in the front while we have everything all apart?

Question #4: Are there any special tools we will need, that a mechanic normally wouldn’t have?

I remember reading on here about someone who was replacing their front diff with one from ECGS, and they had to remove some components off their OEM diff, and install them onto the new ECGS diff before installing it. Unfortunately I can’t remember who it was though. (A link to whose build thread it was that I’m thinking of would be awesome).

Question #5: What parts need to be transferred from the old front diff to the new front diff before installing, and is it pretty straight forward?

For gear oil, I plan on using 75w90.

Question #6: Would you recommend regular or synthetic gear oil? Brands?

Also, I plan on using Toyota orange FIPG for sealing the third member to the rear axle housing.

Question #7: Is there anything at all, that you can think of, that I am missing or not prepared for?

Question #8: Are there any good write-ups on replacing front/rear diffs, that I can use to familiarize myself with the process? (I found a few, but there may be more/better ones out there.)

Any advice from you differential experts out there would be greatly appreciated. I have already been communicating with Chase at ECGS, and Dous on this forum, and they have been super helpful. I just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before jumping into this.

Thanks all!

 

[chuck norris]

I'll throw in my $.02 on this... comments in red.

This will be by far my most expensive mod to date (and probably ever), so I started this thread to make sure I’m doing it right and not screwing anything up. Plus others can hopefully make use of this in the future.

So I’m wanting to regear my front & rear diffs to make up some of the lost power after moving up to 35” tires. My truck is my daily driver and weekend wheeler. Most of the miles I put on it are tooling around town, with the occasional highway jaunt. The only towing I plan on doing is a small utility or camping trailer. Also, my truck is fully armored, and fairly heavy. Most of my wheeling is in soft sand and mud, with some steep hill climbs. Occasionally I’ll go to an off-road park and do some mild rock crawling. I did a ton of research, and it appears that 5.29’s would be the appropriate gear ratio for my auto trans rig.

Question #1: Does anybody think that 5.29’s are not the best gear ratio for my scenario?

If you don't go on long highway trips, 5.29s will be awesome. Even for highway runs you'll just have higher RPMs for any given speed.

So my plan is to purchase fully assembled rear third member and front clamshell diffs with the gears already set up from East Coast Gear Supply. Here is what I plan on ordering from ECGS:

Front: Tacoma 7.5 Reverse Clamshell 3rd Member Assembly

The options on the front are pretty straight forward.

Rear: Toyota V6 8''- Pickup, 4runner,FJ Criuser

Here is what I believe is correct for the rear options:

ABS Diff = No ABS (According to Chase at ECGS)

Flange Style = ’05+ Double Drilled Flange (According to Chase at ECGS)

Solid Spacer = Yes, it is cheap insurance. (According to Chase at ECGS)

Question #2: Does anybody see anything wrong with what I am ordering?

ECGS complete diffs are the way to go! If you do have ABS In a 3rd gen the sensor is on the axle housing, so Chase's recommendations are good. Solid spacer is the way to go too, the minimal cost is worth the longevity of it.

So, I know that this would also be the best time to put lockers in the diff(s). I would like to get the ARB air locker in the rear for sure, and quite possibly one in the front too. For the type of wheeling I do, a front locker probably isn’t absolutely necessary, but I heard that it makes the front diff a lot stronger, and I’m all for that. Plus, you never know, I might get into a bad situation, and it would be nice to have the option of locking the front. So I’ll do front and rear ARB’s if I can swing it, along with the ARB high output compressor.

If you're going to do lockers, now's the time to do it! Rear at least, if your wallet can handle it you may as well do the front too. I'd leave the front unlocked for 99% of the situations just to save the half-shafts, but when you need it you'll appreciate it. ARB's are king for the situation too. I'm a big fan of selectable lockers for a rig that sees street use.

Now, I’m no mechanic, so my buddy (who actually is a mechanic) will be helping me with installing the diffs. He mentioned that we should replace the rear axle seals while we’re in there. So we’ll be doing that too. I believe that the new front diff comes with new seals already installed.

Question #3: Are there any preventive maintenance items that should be replaced in the front while we have everything all apart?

The front diff should be fresh, you may want to repack/new boots on the CVs since you'll have them accessible.

For the rear, new seals will be easy, and if you're ever going to do wheel bearings now's a good time to do them too.

Question #4: Are there any special tools we will need, that a mechanic normally wouldn’t have?

I remember reading on here about someone who was replacing their front diff with one from ECGS, and they had to remove some components off their OEM diff, and install them onto the new ECGS diff before installing it. Unfortunately I can’t remember who it was though. (A link to whose build thread it was that I’m thinking of would be awesome).

Question #5: What parts need to be transferred from the old front diff to the new front diff before installing, and is it pretty straight forward?

Possibly the diff tube? I'd ask ECGS to be sure.

For gear oil, I plan on using 75w90.

Question #6: Would you recommend regular or synthetic gear oil? Brands?

Also, I plan on using Toyota orange FIPG for sealing the third member to the rear axle housing.

Good call, Toyota FIPG is the best for diffs.

Question #7: Is there anything at all, that you can think of, that I am missing or not prepared for?

Question #8: Are there any good write-ups on replacing front/rear diffs, that I can use to familiarize myself with the process? (I found a few, but there may be more/better ones out there.)

Toyota 4runner FSM! It's pretty easy though... the only hard part I can see will be setting up the ARB lines.

Any advice from you differential experts out there would be greatly appreciated. I have already been communicating with Chase at ECGS, and Dous on this forum, and they have been super helpful. I just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before jumping into this.

Thanks all!

 

[downpour11]

Question #8: Are there any good write-ups on replacing front/rear diffs, that I can use to familiarize myself with the process? (I found a few, but there may be more/better ones out there.)


Thanks all!

Here's a link for front diff removal thanks to Duhockey
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/112907-pulling-front-diff.html

 

[BigFishAllDay]

In red, sir.

question #1: does anybody think that 5.29’s are not the best gear ratio for my scenario?

question #2: does anybody see anything wrong with what i am ordering?

i can't help you on the gear ratio because i don't have experience with anything other than the stock 4.10's, but the rest of the order looks correct to me. (i've shopped ecgs's website on multiple occasions, loading up my cart, then chickening out).

question #3: are there any preventive maintenance items that should be replaced in the front while we have everything all apart?

just the axle seals at the rear, i wouldn't mess with wheel bearings unless you've already got an axle seal leak. Maybe re-boot your cv axles while you've got them out of the 4runner, too. Check the boots and see if they're dry/cracked. If, get a re-boot kit from toyota and knock those out. Also, put some anti-sieze lubricant around the lip of the dust cap that covers the cv axle nut. It will help with removing the covers in the future if you ever have to do a trail repair on a cv.

question #4: are there any special tools we will need, that a mechanic normally wouldn’t have?

I remember reading on here about someone who was replacing their front diff with one from ecgs, and they had to remove some components off their oem diff, and install them onto the new ecgs diff before installing it. Unfortunately i can’t remember who it was though. (a link to whose build thread it was that i’m thinking of would be awesome).

as far as special tools, you may want:

-a seal puller to remove the rear axle seals
-a seal driver kit for installing the new axle seals
-a 10mm line wrench for removing/installing the brake lines @ the rear drums
-cv swap tools (35mm socket, pry bar & hammer, etc)
-torx sockets for removing the add tube on the front diff
-fluid pump for filling the diffs w/fresh gear oil
-rtv/fipg for sealing up the new diffs

that's about it for tools, i think.

You might be thinking of ripcord, he just swapped the f/r diffs...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/85197-ripcord-s-2002-4runner-sport-ed-36.html#post1196648

and i have a few pictures in my thread of a rear diff install, from when i did my e-locker swap...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ne-2001-sport-ed-trd-sc-d-25.html#post1031429

question #5: what parts need to be transferred from the old front diff to the new front diff before installing, and is it pretty straight forward?

For gear oil, i plan on using 75w90.

see the link above to rip's install re parts that need to be removed.

75w90 is perfect.

question #6: would you recommend regular or synthetic gear oil? Brands?

i run redline synthetic 75w90 in both of my 4runners.

question #7: is there anything at all, that you can think of, that i am missing or not prepared for?

nope.

question #8: are there any good write-ups on replacing front/rear diffs, that i can use to familiarize myself with the process? (i found a few, but there may be more/better ones out there.)

i'll check my "favorites" folder when i get home and see if i have any links for you. Looks like downpour posted a good one.

 

[4-Ripcord]

As Nick said, I recently swapped my front diff with one built by ECGS.

I can send you more info when I'm not responding from my phone.. but on the front diff you will need to remove the ADD tube, all the mounts, and the internal shaft that is accessible once you remove the ADD tube (it snaps in like a CV joint does).

Basically anything that can be unbolted from the main diff housing stays with you.

 

[aha2988]

This will be by far my most expensive mod to date (and probably ever), so I started this thread to make sure I’m doing it right and not screwing anything up. Plus others can hopefully make use of this in the future.

So I’m wanting to regear my front & rear diffs to make up some of the lost power after moving up to 35” tires. My truck is my daily driver and weekend wheeler. Most of the miles I put on it are tooling around town, with the occasional highway jaunt. The only towing I plan on doing is a small utility or camping trailer. Also, my truck is fully armored, and fairly heavy. Most of my wheeling is in soft sand and mud, with some steep hill climbs. Occasionally I’ll go to an off-road park and do some mild rock crawling. I did a ton of research, and it appears that 5.29’s would be the appropriate gear ratio for my auto trans rig.

Question #1: Does anybody think that 5.29’s are not the best gear ratio for my scenario?

So my plan is to purchase fully assembled rear third member and front clamshell diffs with the gears already set up from East Coast Gear Supply. Here is what I plan on ordering from ECGS:

Front: Tacoma 7.5 Reverse Clamshell 3rd Member Assembly

The options on the front are pretty straight forward.

Rear: Toyota V6 8''- Pickup, 4runner,FJ Criuser

Here is what I believe is correct for the rear options:

ABS Diff = No ABS (According to Chase at ECGS)

Flange Style = ’05+ Double Drilled Flange (According to Chase at ECGS)

Solid Spacer = Yes, it is cheap insurance. (According to Chase at ECGS)

Question #2: Does anybody see anything wrong with what I am ordering?

So, I know that this would also be the best time to put lockers in the diff(s). I would like to get the ARB air locker in the rear for sure, and quite possibly one in the front too. For the type of wheeling I do, a front locker probably isn’t absolutely necessary, but I heard that it makes the front diff a lot stronger, and I’m all for that. Plus, you never know, I might get into a bad situation, and it would be nice to have the option of locking the front. So I’ll do front and rear ARB’s if I can swing it, along with the ARB high output compressor.

Now, I’m no mechanic, so my buddy (who actually is a mechanic) will be helping me with installing the diffs. He mentioned that we should replace the rear axle seals while we’re in there. So we’ll be doing that too. I believe that the new front diff comes with new seals already installed.

Question #3: Are there any preventive maintenance items that should be replaced in the front while we have everything all apart?

Question #4: Are there any special tools we will need, that a mechanic normally wouldn’t have?

I remember reading on here about someone who was replacing their front diff with one from ECGS, and they had to remove some components off their OEM diff, and install them onto the new ECGS diff before installing it. Unfortunately I can’t remember who it was though. (A link to whose build thread it was that I’m thinking of would be awesome).

Question #5: What parts need to be transferred from the old front diff to the new front diff before installing, and is it pretty straight forward?

For gear oil, I plan on using 75w90.

Question #6: Would you recommend regular or synthetic gear oil? Brands?

Also, I plan on using Toyota orange FIPG for sealing the third member to the rear axle housing.

Question #7: Is there anything at all, that you can think of, that I am missing or not prepared for?

Question #8: Are there any good write-ups on replacing front/rear diffs, that I can use to familiarize myself with the process? (I found a few, but there may be more/better ones out there.)

Any advice from you differential experts out there would be greatly appreciated. I have already been communicating with Chase at ECGS, and Dous on this forum, and they have been super helpful. I just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before jumping into this.

Thanks all!

I can recommend using lucas 85w-140 gear oil, in place of the 75w-90, and non synthetic is the way to go. (chase at ECGS recommended this for me and can explain it better than i can so call him up if your curious)

you'll have a 500 mile break in period in which you need to avoid highway speeds and towing as the new gears mesh they create lots of heat until there properly broken in. after 500 miles change the fluid and your good to go until the next "regular maintenance scheduled diff fluid change"

check your rear axle hub bearings for play be prepared to replace them pending mileage or abuse, as A.) this is a great time to change them while you have the axle shafts out. B.) This is a GREAT time to change them while the axle shafts are out lol.

Replacing the seals is a great idea to do while you have the shafts out of the rear as well. I also recommend reversing the collar that rides on the axle shaft that the axle seal seals around as with age the collar wears reversing the collar provides a new sealing surface for the new axle seals.

on the front housing your going to pull the diff breather tube off the old and move it to the new as well as the passenger side axle tube(with electronic disconnect) from old to new. (basicly your getting the carrier housing with pinion flange and a driver side cv axle seal) you'll want to purchase a new seal for the passenger side as your not replacing that part of the front axle assembly its getting transfer to the new carrier housing.

definitely bring a strong friend to help as its a paint to lift the new carriers up into place. as well if you go with the arb locker for the rear you'll want an extra hand guiding the copper air line into the rear housing preventing it from getting caught on the ring gear or being pressed against the housing. you definitely want to check, check, and check again to make sure that copper line inside the housing isnt getting interference with any of the moving parts inside the axle.

its not 100% necessary to freshen up the front cv axles but it's not a bad time to do so while there out and ready to be replaced or rebuilt. also no worries with locking the front diff just keep a mindset that when its locked you don't want to turn the steering wheel. I think of it as the rear locker is my i might get stuck lets use this switch and the front locker as Im really really stuck and i hope this helps haha. also research a little on proper and improper ocassions to use a front locker, in some off camber situations climbing up a hill with both front tires spinning the front end can slide towards the bottom of the hill putting you in a roll over position where if only one tire up front is spinning the other tire is holding your direction straight up the hill.

by build thread (in my signature I can send you link if your on a phone app) has a few pics of when i changed mine out its not a write up but the pics can possibly give you some insight.

I just used the red RTV sealant for all the sealing surfaces it has worked fine. I'm running 4.56's on 33's and my RPM's are over factory spec so I could run a 34.5 or 35 tire just fine with 4.56's; however, I have the V8 not certain how to judge those differences but I would think if your not off-roading regularly 4.56's or 4.88's would be plenty of gear for you. (this is just my personal opinion though I'm not crunching the numbers to figure out the best gear ratio for you lol)

when your unbolting the rear third member the studs may want to remove with the nuts so be prepared to fight those a bit and remove the nuts from the studs and re install the studs. cleaning the studs threads can speed up installation as you will be able to hand snug the nuts before torquing the third member up completely. the only specialty tool or uncommon tool I can think of you needing is the large socket required to unbolt the front half shafts from the wheel hubs. and you may need some of those crazy star sockets not a torx head but the female version of a torx driver like an 8 point socket or something like that theres a name just can't recall it right now I needed those to separate the passenger side axle tube from the IFS axle housing.

with the amount of gear oil your gonna need for initial install and then break in period go ahead and order a case of the fluid from ECGS it'll be cheaper than your local parts store also if you wind up catching that rear copper air line on the ring gear your going to have to pull the third and brass the line shut so having extra gear oil will be handy if you need it. other than all of this i can't think of much to add.

If i didn't answer a question in particular that you still need some input on shoot me a pm

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/116561-ha-s-build-4.html (page 4 post 48 begins my differential info and ordeals post 59 show's what you will receive from ECGS (note that the rear third in that pic has a TJM locker. Later posts in the thread show my ARB locker as I had to switch out with ECGS after fitment issues with TJM. and minus the one axle shaft lol)

 

[Bandit Runner]

Excellent advice so far. I knew I could count on you guys! Thanks to everyone who posted so far. :hatsoff:

 

[toykidd]

i dont mean to thread jack.. but i too am doing a regear in my truck here in a couple of weeks and i am getting assembled diffs from ECGS as well! but my question is that since i have an 02 with the multimode transfer case are there any extra steps/parts i need to take or are the front diffs the same as what would be in one with a J shifter?

 

[Bandit Runner]

I can recommend using lucas 85w-140 gear oil, in place of the 75w-90, and non synthetic is the way to go. (chase at ECGS recommended this for me and can explain it better than i can so call him up if your curious)

you'll have a 500 mile break in period in which you need to avoid highway speeds and towing as the new gears mesh they create lots of heat until there properly broken in. after 500 miles change the fluid and your good to go until the next "regular maintenance scheduled diff fluid change"

check your rear axle hub bearings for play be prepared to replace them pending mileage or abuse, as A.) this is a great time to change them while you have the axle shafts out. B.) This is a GREAT time to change them while the axle shafts are out lol.

Replacing the seals is a great idea to do while you have the shafts out of the rear as well. I also recommend reversing the collar that rides on the axle shaft that the axle seal seals around as with age the collar wears reversing the collar provides a new sealing surface for the new axle seals.

on the front housing your going to pull the diff breather tube off the old and move it to the new as well as the passenger side axle tube(with electronic disconnect) from old to new. (basicly your getting the carrier housing with pinion flange and a driver side cv axle seal) you'll want to purchase a new seal for the passenger side as your not replacing that part of the front axle assembly its getting transfer to the new carrier housing.

definitely bring a strong friend to help as its a paint to lift the new carriers up into place. as well if you go with the arb locker for the rear you'll want an extra hand guiding the copper air line into the rear housing preventing it from getting caught on the ring gear or being pressed against the housing. you definitely want to check, check, and check again to make sure that copper line inside the housing isnt getting interference with any of the moving parts inside the axle.

its not 100% necessary to freshen up the front cv axles but it's not a bad time to do so while there out and ready to be replaced or rebuilt. also no worries with locking the front diff just keep a mindset that when its locked you don't want to turn the steering wheel. I think of it as the rear locker is my i might get stuck lets use this switch and the front locker as Im really really stuck and i hope this helps haha. also research a little on proper and improper ocassions to use a front locker, in some off camber situations climbing up a hill with both front tires spinning the front end can slide towards the bottom of the hill putting you in a roll over position where if only one tire up front is spinning the other tire is holding your direction straight up the hill.

by build thread (in my signature I can send you link if your on a phone app) has a few pics of when i changed mine out its not a write up but the pics can possibly give you some insight.

I just used the red RTV sealant for all the sealing surfaces it has worked fine. I'm running 4.56's on 33's and my RPM's are over factory spec so I could run a 34.5 or 35 tire just fine with 4.56's; however, I have the V8 not certain how to judge those differences but I would think if your not off-roading regularly 4.56's or 4.88's would be plenty of gear for you. (this is just my personal opinion though I'm not crunching the numbers to figure out the best gear ratio for you lol)

when your unbolting the rear third member the studs may want to remove with the nuts so be prepared to fight those a bit and remove the nuts from the studs and re install the studs. cleaning the studs threads can speed up installation as you will be able to hand snug the nuts before torquing the third member up completely. the only specialty tool or uncommon tool I can think of you needing is the large socket required to unbolt the front half shafts from the wheel hubs. and you may need some of those crazy star sockets not a torx head but the female version of a torx driver like an 8 point socket or something like that theres a name just can't recall it right now I needed those to separate the passenger side axle tube from the IFS axle housing.

with the amount of gear oil your gonna need for initial install and then break in period go ahead and order a case of the fluid from ECGS it'll be cheaper than your local parts store also if you wind up catching that rear copper air line on the ring gear your going to have to pull the third and brass the line shut so having extra gear oil will be handy if you need it. other than all of this i can't think of much to add.

If i didn't answer a question in particular that you still need some input on shoot me a pm

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/116561-ha-s-build-4.html (page 4 post 48 begins my differential info and ordeals post 59 show's what you will receive from ECGS minus the one axle shaft lol)

I appreciate the detailed response. It appears that you are referring to a 4th gen 4Runner though. Can you confirm that everything you mentioned is the same for the 3rd gen?

 

[Bandit Runner]

i dont mean to thread jack.. but i too am doing a regear in my truck here in a couple of weeks and i am getting assembled diffs from ECGS as well! but my question is that since i have an 02 with the multimode transfer case are there any extra steps/parts i need to take or are the front diffs the same as what would be in one with a J shifter?

That's not a hijack. I have an '02 also. Excellent question!

(Maybe we could ask ECGS for a group discount) haha

 

[aha2988]

I appreciate the detailed response. It appears that you are referring to a 4th gen 4Runner though. Can you confirm that everything you mentioned is the same for the 3rd gen?

everything is essentially the same
the differences you have from my setup are:
rear drum brakes
front axle with an electronic disonnect
and 7.5" ring gear (opposed to my 8") in the front diff

So i left out the assembling and disassembling of the drum brakes as im not experienced with the exact steps to take on the third gen brake setup.

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/ all this info you'll ever need about toyota axles...(however it's somewhat out of date as there are more gear sizes available now that what it reads into)

 

[aha2988]

i dont mean to thread jack.. but i too am doing a regear in my truck here in a couple of weeks and i am getting assembled diffs from ECGS as well! but my question is that since i have an 02 with the multimode transfer case are there any extra steps/parts i need to take or are the front diffs the same as what would be in one with a J shifter?

nothing else to worry about same steps same process, same axles.. http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

 

[Brian757]

Well, why did Bandit Runner put his thread in 3rd person? (Towards the OP)
Maybe Bandit Runner should get a darn job! And take care of his kids! And three nieces!

Don't attempt to follow my babble [MENTION=55891]Bandit Runner[/MENTION].

 

[Bandit Runner]

Well, why did Bandit Runner put his thread in 3rd person? (Towards the OP)
Maybe Bandit Runner should get a darn job! And take care of his kids! And three nieces!

Don't attempt to follow my babble [MENTION=55891]Bandit Runner[/MENTION].

Ummmm? OKaaaay? I have no idea what you are talking about, but to clarify a few things:

I usually try to include my user name in my thread titles because it makes it easier to search for and find. The rest of the original post is in first person.

I have a fantastic engineering job that I've been at for 20 years. As for my kids, I can assure you they are well taken care of. My oldest daughter is almost done with grad school. My middle daughter is in her first year of culinary school, and my son is doing very well in middle school. I don't have any nieces, only nephews, and they're just fine too.

Back on topic, please.

 

[aha2988]

Well, why did Bandit Runner put his thread in 3rd person? (Towards the OP)
Maybe Bandit Runner should get a darn job! And take care of his kids! And three nieces!

Don't attempt to follow my babble [MENTION=55891]Bandit Runner[/MENTION].

are you really that bored? go play with your fishy fishes fish boy

I have a fantastic engineering job.

good gah another engineer this site should be renamed t4rforengineers.org lol

 

[Bandit Runner]

As Nick said, I recently swapped my front diff with one built by ECGS.

I can send you more info when I'm not responding from my phone.. but on the front diff you will need to remove the ADD tube, all the mounts, and the internal shaft that is accessible once you remove the ADD tube (it snaps in like a CV joint does).

Basically anything that can be unbolted from the main diff housing stays with you.

Yes, yours is the one I was thinking of. I was looking through your thread the other day, thinking it was you, but I apparently didn't go back far enough. I thought you had done it more recently. Thanks!

 

[FrankM23]

if you're worried about strength in the front diff, I believe Chase gives you an option of cryo treatment for your gears. It's cheap insurance. I think it's like 50 bucks for the front. Don't quote me on that. As far as oil, I think Chase recommends non-synthetic because synthetic has some properties that may cause leaks but this is only for the break-in period I believe. When shipping the front, all you send is the clamshell. you keep the a.d.d. jack shaft, actuator assembly. I'd use toyota red FIPG. That's just me though. You'll find that everyone has their preference for this though.

 

[aha2988]

if you're worried about strength in the front diff, I believe Chase gives you an option of cryo treatment for your gears. It's cheap insurance. I think it's like 50 bucks for the front. Don't quote me on that. As far as oil, I think Chase recommends non-synthetic because synthetic has some properties that may cause leaks but this is only for the break-in period I believe. When shipping the front, all you send is the clamshell. you keep the a.d.d. jack shaft, actuator assembly. I'd use toyota red FIPG. That's just me though. You'll find that everyone has their preference for this though.

have there been many or any experiences posted of front diff damage of the ring and pinion? all I've seen accounts of are the rear ring gears breaking.

 

[Brian757]

Ummmm? OKaaaay? I have no idea what you are talking about, but to clarify a few things:

I usually try to include my user name in my thread titles because it makes it easier to search for and find. The rest of the original post is in first person.

I have a fantastic engineering job that I've been at for 20 years. As for my kids, I can assure you they are well taken care of. My oldest daughter is almost done with grad school. My middle daughter is in her first year of culinary school, and my son is doing very well in middle school. I don't have any nieces, only nephews, and they're just fine too.

Back on topic, please.

HAHA! Awesome reply. +1 for you sir. I was just bullsh!tin, waiting for my boss to get back to the office. I will read your post and put something legit on here.

are you really that bored? go play with your fishy fishes fish boyl

Haha, we are among the dozens currently on here, bored as hell.

 

[aha2988]

Haha, maybe we should find something to do. We are among the dozens currently on here, bored as hell.

can't argue with that lol I'd be wrenching on the truck if I weren't stuck at work