Brian757
New member
can't argue with that lol I'd be wrenching on the truck if I weren't stuck at work
Amen.
can't argue with that lol I'd be wrenching on the truck if I weren't stuck at work
E-torx.
Also you need a large hex key for the front diff mount, havent seen that mentioned. I believe its a 10mm hex? The write ups will confirm.
Haha, we are among the dozens currently on here, bored as hell.
if you're worried about strength in the front diff, I believe Chase gives you an option of cryo treatment for your gears. It's cheap insurance. I think it's like 50 bucks for the front. Don't quote me on that. As far as oil, I think Chase recommends non-synthetic because synthetic has some properties that may cause leaks but this is only for the break-in period I believe. When shipping the front, all you send is the clamshell. you keep the a.d.d. jack shaft, actuator assembly. I'd use toyota red FIPG. That's just me though. You'll find that everyone has their preference for this though.
One thing I saw mentioned is that you need torx sockets - but what you really need are E-torx. Simple mix up, but critical. Please dont make the mistake of buying these sockets at harbor freight. I figured, oh, 4 bolts, cant be that bad... two of the four bolt heads started to strip.
Also you need a large hex key for the front diff mount, havent seen that mentioned. I believe its a 10mm hex? The write ups will confirm.
When I did my front diff, I started by using a floor jack, wood, etc to remove it. What a headache... The best way I found was to grab a friend, and man-handle it. There are just too many awkward twists and angles you need to wiggle the diff out.
Shifting the transfer case into 4wd and back to 2wd/N is easy for locking up and moving the front driveshaft.
5.29's will be great with the city, weight, and towing. I went 4.88's because of the supercharger and highway drives to the trails. If I didnt have a supercharger, I would have immediately regretted the 4.88's. But I'm happy as can be now.
It seems that most of your questions have been answered, but I'll add a couple things.
First, you will love the 5:29's! If you were on the highway all the time I might steer you towards 4:88's but for around town, wheeling and towing they are great. I would rather have more gearing than not enough, my 4Runner does fine at highway speeds.
Second, if there is any way you can swing the front ARB locker now is the time to do it. It gets rid of the weak carrier adding a lot of strength, and even if you don't do a ton of rock crawling there are times that it will come in useful. There is no way I could get to the places I go snow wheeling without a front locker, and I'm sure there are other spots in your area where it would come in handy. It's better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. I really feel that's it's best to do it right the first time and never worry about it again. But I understand that it's also $$$!
And Toyota Orange FIPG is the best stuff around, it's all I use on the 4Runner.
I didn't read through every response, but the front diff will come with new tube seals on both sides, Toyota OEM seals.
Also, an alternative to using FIPG are the LubeLockers, makes the install easier and less messy, we have them in stock; IIRC for around 20 bucks.
have there been many or any experiences posted of front diff damage of the ring and pinion? all I've seen accounts of are the rear ring gears breaking.
The LubeLocker is a preformed gasket that will simply slide over the studs. As for the gear oil that we recommend, it is Lucas Non-synthetic after the break in period has been completed. You can run cheapish stuff for the first 500 miles. You will get a sheet of instructions for the break in period and recommended gear oils when we ship you the 3rd's
Can you provide me with the actual cost of the LubeLocker for the rear third member? That's the only one I would need, correct? There isn't anything that needs to be sealed on the front diff?
Is there any way you could email me a copy of the instruction sheet ahead of time? I'd love to see it as soon as possible.
What do you know about getting the front gears cryoed? Is this an option that ECGS provides?
Someone mentioned purchasing a case of gear oil directly from ECGS. I didn't see anything on the website about this. Is that true, do you sell the gear oils that you recommend?
Thanks again.
1.) I will be happy to get you the price today. Yep that is the only one you will need, although you will need a small amount of FIPG to conjoin the ADD tube to the front 3rd.
2.) I will see what I can do about the instruction sheet
3.) As far as I know we don't do it, but talk to Chase about it he may know where it can be done.
4.) Yep, we sell the Lucas gear oil that we recommend, either single, or by the case (6 bottles) It is definitely cheaper than the parts house prices, I can get that price today as well.
1.) I will be happy to get you the price today. Yep that is the only one you will need, although you will need a small amount of FIPG to conjoin the ADD tube to the front 3rd.
2.) I will see what I can do about the instruction sheet
3.) As far as I know we don't do it, but talk to Chase about it he may know where it can be done.
4.) Yep, we sell the Lucas gear oil that we recommend, either single, or by the case (6 bottles) It is definitely cheaper than the parts house prices, I can get that price today as well.
I thought you worked in the shipping department you trying to work your way up to sales now!?! haha whad up casey! you comin down with tyler to the jamboree at the end of the month?
LOL I may come down for the Jamboree, if not I will be there the weekend after....I am itching to try out the air locker