Bandit Runner wants to re-gear his diffs

[Full_Throttle]

sweet. Wish I had a few thousand laying around to do just this very thing. BTW, speed buggy was my fav cartoon growing up (along with captain caveman and hong kong phooey)

 

[Bandit Runner]

sweet. Wish I had a few thousand laying around to do just this very thing. BTW, speed buggy was my fav cartoon growing up (along with captain caveman and hong kong phooey)

Yeah, I was lucky enough to get a huge bonus from work this year, so I figured it was now or never.

(Speed buggy was my favorite Saturday morning cartoon too, hence the avatar. Scooby Doo was a close second though.)

 

[TheeMikeB]

I am currently in the process of doing this as well. I purchased my front from ECGS (with ARB), I second biting the bullet now and getting a locker if you can.

I was fortunate to find a used rear 3rd ARB with 4.88 from TheJosh here on this site and since I was changing my rear ratio I needed the front too. I checked all around and found ECGS to be the best buy and with Free shipping was a no brainer. I kept adding it to my cart and playing with the configuration and decided adding the locker to the front build now as the smart move. I hate paying twice for stuff. Keep in mind though adding ARBs also adds a compressor to the cost also but hey it's only money.

I found this site to have the best price/no tax and free shipping: CKMA12 ARB Air Locker 12-Volt Onboard Medium-Duty Ultra-Compact Vehicle Tankless Air Compressor


I also second the lubelocker for the rear, FIPG is messy and if you ever have to pull it, then you end up scraping again. I had to pull my rear 3rd out after I put it in becuase the flange was different so I pulled it out to swap and do it on my bench. I would have had to scrape and reapply FIPG without the lubelocker. Just order it from ECGS with your gears.

Now as for tools.

External Torx set: I see some bashing the HF Etorx set, I didn't have any problems with the Etorx but I purchased the impact set becuase they were shorter. The standard Etorx from HF is deep socket, I didn't want the deep so purchased the impact version witch is standard size. Also prob a bit heavier duty. 7 Piece 1/4 in, 3/8 in. Drive External Impact Star Socket Set


Metric Hex Head sockets: I bought this set and it worked perfectly. 9 Piece 3/8" and 1/2" Drive Metric Hex Bit Socket Set

As for 'what else to do while you are there'.

For the front: Now is a good time to inspect your steering and suspension components. I found my upper/lower ball joints spewing grease, inner TRE were shot, outers not too far away and steering rack bushings toast. So I replaced my inner/outer TRE, upper lower balljoints. Best prices with free shipping was from http://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214329 Steering rack bushings I replaced with the energy suspension kit from Toytec.

Then I couldn't stop there becuase I had a set of new stoptech brake pads I ended up with from a trade so I redid my front brakes too.

I basically replaced everything on the front 'becuase I was there'.



For the rear: My axle seals were starting to go so I decided to replace my axle seals and wheel bearings too, and becuase my seals were going, my drum brakes were covered in gear oil so I bought new brake shoes.

So I hope this gives you a recent insight as to what to lookfor and expect while doing this. I didn't mean to turn this into a look what I did but more of a realistic real world account into what you might expect. Obviously each is different but you are basically pulling the entire front and rear ends apart do to this so.... while you are there....

 

[aha2988]

I am currently in the process of doing this as well. I purchased my front from ECGS (with ARB), I second biting the bullet now and getting a locker if you can.

I was fortunate to find a used rear 3rd ARB with 4.88 from TheJosh here on this site and since I was changing my rear ratio I needed the front too. I checked all around and found ECGS to be the best buy and with Free shipping was a no brainer. I kept adding it to my cart and playing with the configuration and decided adding the locker to the front build now as the smart move. I hate paying twice for stuff. Keep in mind though adding ARBs also adds a compressor to the cost also but hey it's only money.

I found this site to have the best price/no tax and free shipping: CKMA12 ARB Air Locker 12-Volt Onboard Medium-Duty Ultra-Compact Vehicle Tankless Air Compressor


I also second the lubelocker for the rear, FIPG is messy and if you ever have to pull it, then you end up scraping again. I had to pull my rear 3rd out after I put it in becuase the flange was different so I pulled it out to swap and do it on my bench. I would have had to scrape and reapply FIPG without the lubelocker. Just order it from ECGS with your gears.

Now as for tools.

External Torx set: I see some bashing the HF Etorx set, I didn't have any problems with the Etorx but I purchased the impact set becuase they were shorter. The standard Etorx from HF is deep socket, I didn't want the deep so purchased the impact version witch is standard size. Also prob a bit heavier duty. 7 Piece 1/4 in, 3/8 in. Drive External Impact Star Socket Set


Metric Hex Head sockets: I bought this set and it worked perfectly. 9 Piece 3/8" and 1/2" Drive Metric Hex Bit Socket Set

As for 'what else to do while you are there'.

For the front: Now is a good time to inspect your steering and suspension components. I found my upper/lower ball joints spewing grease, inner TRE were shot, outers not too far away and steering rack bushings toast. So I replaced my inner/outer TRE, upper lower balljoints. Best prices with free shipping was from Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping Steering rack bushings I replaced with the energy suspension kit from Toytec.

Then I couldn't stop there becuase I had a set of new stoptech brake pads I ended up with from a trade so I redid my front brakes too.

I basically replaced everything on the front 'becuase I was there'.



For the rear: My axle seals were starting to go so I decided to replace my axle seals and wheel bearings too, and becuase my seals were going, my drum brakes were covered in gear oil so I bought new brake shoes.

So I hope this gives you a recent insight as to what to lookfor and expect while doing this. I didn't mean to turn this into a look what I did but more of a realistic real world account into what you might expect. Obviously each is different but you are basically pulling the entire front and rear ends apart do to this so.... while you are there....

I can agree with this. I was smart enough to go through and replace the hub bearings on the rear as well as shaft seals. however I didnt even think about the steering components and i checked into them recently noting they need some tune up now I'll have to go back and tear into everything again, to add my spindle seals are trash so my front hub bearings are probably on there last leg should have replaced those at the same time but I didn't notice until install of the front carrier assembly at that point i was like f-it I'll just do it later lol.. I wish now I had planned a bit more as i could've shaved my work time down.

with the rear axle i was dumb enough to re use the same hub bearing retainers which caused my new shaft seals to leak so I had to repeat the process of pulling the shafts again to install new retainers to fix the oil leak. also replaced the passenger side outer oil seal retainer that gets press in between the wheel hub flange of the axle shaft and the outer oil deflector (the beer can material just behind the wheel hub flange). i had torn it during initial install of the new hub bearing and just went without it, that lead to oil coating my entire parking brake assembly and rear brake rotors (oh what a lovely smell to get out of the truck to burnt gear oil yum yum)

Also with the rear ARB lockers be meticulous with the copper line and the way it's routed around the ring gear, I had mine in a bit of an obscure location causing it to catch the ring gear one good time and it ripped the copper line out of the housing bung. That was the first install, pulled the third then brazed the copper line back where it had developed a crack in the line. Second install everything seemed fine for a while then all of a sudden a leak developed in the diff. The copper line had been rubbing against the carrier itself provoking a leak. Had to pull the third member a second time, re-brazed the line back solid and re installed. (fingers crossed it's right this time lol)

 

[Bandit Runner]

I am currently in the process of doing this as well. I purchased my front from ECGS (with ARB), I second biting the bullet now and getting a locker if you can.

I was fortunate to find a used rear 3rd ARB with 4.88 from TheJosh here on this site and since I was changing my rear ratio I needed the front too. I checked all around and found ECGS to be the best buy and with Free shipping was a no brainer. I kept adding it to my cart and playing with the configuration and decided adding the locker to the front build now as the smart move. I hate paying twice for stuff. Keep in mind though adding ARBs also adds a compressor to the cost also but hey it's only money.

I found this site to have the best price/no tax and free shipping: CKMA12 ARB Air Locker 12-Volt Onboard Medium-Duty Ultra-Compact Vehicle Tankless Air Compressor


I also second the lubelocker for the rear, FIPG is messy and if you ever have to pull it, then you end up scraping again. I had to pull my rear 3rd out after I put it in becuase the flange was different so I pulled it out to swap and do it on my bench. I would have had to scrape and reapply FIPG without the lubelocker. Just order it from ECGS with your gears.

Now as for tools.

External Torx set: I see some bashing the HF Etorx set, I didn't have any problems with the Etorx but I purchased the impact set becuase they were shorter. The standard Etorx from HF is deep socket, I didn't want the deep so purchased the impact version witch is standard size. Also prob a bit heavier duty. 7 Piece 1/4 in, 3/8 in. Drive External Impact Star Socket Set


Metric Hex Head sockets: I bought this set and it worked perfectly. 9 Piece 3/8" and 1/2" Drive Metric Hex Bit Socket Set

As for 'what else to do while you are there'.

For the front: Now is a good time to inspect your steering and suspension components. I found my upper/lower ball joints spewing grease, inner TRE were shot, outers not too far away and steering rack bushings toast. So I replaced my inner/outer TRE, upper lower balljoints. Best prices with free shipping was from http://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214329 Steering rack bushings I replaced with the energy suspension kit from Toytec.

Then I couldn't stop there becuase I had a set of new stoptech brake pads I ended up with from a trade so I redid my front brakes too.

I basically replaced everything on the front 'becuase I was there'.



For the rear: My axle seals were starting to go so I decided to replace my axle seals and wheel bearings too, and becuase my seals were going, my drum brakes were covered in gear oil so I bought new brake shoes.

So I hope this gives you a recent insight as to what to lookfor and expect while doing this. I didn't mean to turn this into a look what I did but more of a realistic real world account into what you might expect. Obviously each is different but you are basically pulling the entire front and rear ends apart do to this so.... while you are there....

Great advice all around. Thanks for providing your input and experiences.

 

[Singtoe]

We swapped Front diffs on Dous 's 4runner last weekend and the e-torx bolts were very stuck. I had to pull out the oxy torch out the loosen them up.

They were a pain in the butt.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Yeah, I was lucky enough to get a huge bonus from work this year, so I figured it was now or never.

Just wanted to say congrats on the pending upgrade, Bandit! I've been dreaming about a regear/front locker for years now.

I got a substantial bonus at work this year too, but I'm just sitting on the $$$ for now. Everything that's going on with our country today has me saving more than I probably need to.

Glad to see that you treated yourself though. Your rig is quickly becoming one of the nicest around.

 

[Bandit Runner]

Just wanted to say congrats on the pending upgrade, Bandit! I've been dreaming about a regear/front locker for years now.

I got a substantial bonus at work this year too, but I'm just sitting on the $$$ for now. Everything that's going on with our country today has me saving more than I probably need to.

Glad to see that you treated yourself though. Your rig is quickly becoming one of the nicest around.

Thanks, I'm pretty excited about it. As for the money, the wife and I paid off some bills with about half of it. The rest was going to either get spent on the 4Runner or living room carpeting/upgrades. Somehow I actually won out. I owe my wife big time now though, Haha.

 

[rideexileex]

I owe my wife big time now though, Haha.

Ha, more debt.... And these are the really nagging kind, lol

 

[foxrider56]

quick question, i just regard mine to 4.88s from ECGS and the break in procedure is 500 miles i was curios as to the front diff changing the fluid, do you change it at the same time as the rear or do you need to do 500 miles in 4wd?

 

[Bandit Runner]

quick question, i just regard mine to 4.88s from ECGS and the break in procedure is 500 miles i was curios as to the front diff changing the fluid, do you change it at the same time as the rear or do you need to do 500 miles in 4wd?

I just changed the front as the same time as the rear. I did try to drive in 4wd some of the time though.

 

[aha2988]

Even if your not in 4wd the carrier in the front diff still turns, so 500 miles on the rear axle is 500 on the front.

 

[Rock_Rat]

quick question, i just regard mine to 4.88s from ECGS and the break in procedure is 500 miles i was curios as to the front diff changing the fluid, do you change it at the same time as the rear or do you need to do 500 miles in 4wd?

Just a heads up for you. If you're using the Lucas 85-140 you may see its "climbing additives" at work coming out of the front breather tube near the drivers side. Caught me off guard when I saw it at first.

 

[I'mStock]

5.29's will be great with the city, weight, and towing. I went 4.88's because of the supercharger and highway drives to the trails. If I didnt have a supercharger, I would have immediately regretted the 4.88's. But I'm happy as can be now.

Total FNG here, I recently went from 285/75/16 to 315/75/16 on my '98 Limited (auto) and hate it. :rain:

I'm looking to re-gear and can't decide on 4.88s or 5.29s. I've got a 1st gen TRD SC (currently not installed on the truck) but I feel like I'd probably sell it in order to fund the re-gear as I don't think the blower alone would improve my driving experience.

I guess my question is: This thing does see a decent amount of highway use, would I be better off with the 5.29s then? I read a few pages ago that someone with 4.88s (and 255/80/16s) was at 2000-2500 at 65-70mph, that seems a little low for my liking, I don't want to deal with a lot of gear-hunting from the auto...

 

[UnderFire]

Total FNG here, I recently went from 285/75/16 to 315/75/16 on my '98 Limited (auto) and hate it. :rain:



I'm looking to re-gear and can't decide on 4.88s or 5.29s. I've got a 1st gen TRD SC (currently not installed on the truck) but I feel like I'd probably sell it in order to fund the re-gear as I don't think the blower alone would improve my driving experience.



I guess my question is: This thing does see a decent amount of highway use, would I be better off with the 5.29s then? I read a few pages ago that someone with 4.88s (and 255/80/16s) was at 2000-2500 at 65-70mph, that seems a little low for my liking, I don't want to deal with a lot of gear-hunting from the auto...

The blower alone certainly does improve performance as far as acceleration and maintaining speed goes, I'm currently running a TRD charger in stock configuration with the stock pulley on my Tacoma with has 35's with the stock 4.10 gears. It's definitely quicker to speed than before.

The actual problem though is still obvious, running all the way to 70mph in 2nd gear isn't the best, neither is constantly hunting between overdrive and 3rd while driving down the highway. In a perfect world boost and gears is great, but if I had to choose one, I'd still take gears. 4.88's is my personal preference with 35's.

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