Battery

For the most part there are only a few battery manufactures in the world so pretty much everybody's battery is made by one of these companies to that vendors specs... Also true is that battery life is more time and temperature dependent than cycle dependent (normal driving cycle that is) but deep cycling (depleating the charge) an automobile battery is usually the kiss of death in anything older than a few years.

I've had great luck with Walmart batteries who I believe is made by Johnson Controlls and the price is usually less than most AP stores including Sears with the same warrentee and a store on every corner. Between myself and my family we have bought a Walmart battery for 7 cars with only 1 car needing it replaced after 7 years. Most of those cars were retired with the walmart battery still installed and well into 10+ years/200K miles of service.

Just my 2cents
 
My 4R is 10 years old and is on battery #3.

I thought about going with one of the ultra-expensive batteries, but why? I ended up getting a Duralast from AutoZone. It has a higher reserve capacity than any of the ultra-expensive batteries, more cranking amps, and a 6 year warranty with the first 3 being free replacement. Plus, AutoZone stores are everywhere. I paid $110. It's a no-brainer.
 
My 4R is 10 years old and is on battery #3.

I thought about going with one of the ultra-expensive batteries, but why? I ended up getting a Duralast from AutoZone. It has a higher reserve capacity than any of the ultra-expensive batteries, more cranking amps, and a 6 year warranty with the first 3 being free replacement. Plus, AutoZone stores are everywhere. I paid $110. It's a no-brainer.


Really, that's incredible. It has more than


<TABLE class=product_spec_tab cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0><TBODY><TR><TH class=specth colSpan=2>Power Ratings:</TH></TR><TR class=speceven><TD class=tdeven>Amp Hours at 20 Hour Rate:</TD><TD>100 </TD></TR><TR><TD class=tdeven>Capacity Amp Hours at 10 Hour Rating:</TD><TD>92 </TD></TR><TR class=speceven><TD class=tdeven>Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F):</TD><TD>1150 </TD></TR><TR><TD class=tdeven>Reserve Capacity (RC):</TD><TD>205 min. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
 
Really, that's incredible. It has more than


<TABLE class=product_spec_tab cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0><TBODY><TR><TH class=specth colSpan=2>Power Ratings:</TH></TR><TR class=speceven><TD class=tdeven>Amp Hours at 20 Hour Rate:</TD><TD>100 </TD></TR><TR><TD class=tdeven>Capacity Amp Hours at 10 Hour Rating:</TD><TD>92 </TD></TR><TR class=speceven><TD class=tdeven>Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F):</TD><TD>1150 </TD></TR><TR><TD class=tdeven>Reserve Capacity (RC):</TD><TD>205 min. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

I don't know where you got those numbers from, but the DieHard Platinum that they show on their website isn't even close to those.

When I was researching, I looked at Odessey, Optima, DieHard, etc. and NONE of them had the reserve capacity that my Duralast battery has. I think one of them did have more CA, but I've got 950 or 1000 and that's more than anybody will ever need on a light duty vehicle.

I still say why pay $300 for a battery that has the same or less power levels than the $100 one sitting next to it?
 
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because unlike a wheelbearing, batteries can and do fail without much warning. as in leaving you stranded somewhere. their service life is also based on TIME. even if you NEVER used it, after 7-8 years....it wouldnt be trustworthy.

there will be warning signs when a WB goes out. they dont just go from working, to catastrophic failure.



but, nice try :juggle:

Oh wheel bearings don't have catastrophic failures? I guess you should tell this guy http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/111364-suspension-broke-%40-75mph.html

You really have a lot to learn about cars.
 
Oh wheel bearings don't have catastrophic failures? I guess you should tell this guy http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/111364-suspension-broke-%40-75mph.html

You really have a lot to learn about cars.
that didnt JUST happen. bearings DONT fail like that, not without prior warning.

it was loose, or making noise, SOMETHING before it let go.

and, i never one time said they dont have catastrophic failures, i said they dont do it without warning.
learn to read.

and i think its you that has a lot to learn.
 
Thanks Casper

WXman I would not have posted that data if it were not factual.

I went with this battery due to reviews and so I would have enough battery capacity that I do not need a dual battery setup.

So for my needs paying less than $300 is actually cheaper in the long run.

There are only a few battery manufactures that manufacture batteries under different labels and to different specs.

This is a situation that I believe you get what you pay for. Like the oil I use, I want a high quality battery and for me it is worth paying a little more.

Some things like led lights for the interior, I can go cheap with. A battery is not one I want to compromise quality for a few dollars.

Just my opinion and may not be the same for others but it has done me well for 40 years so I am not changing now.
 
that didnt JUST happen. bearings DONT fail like that, not without prior warning.

it was loose, or making noise, SOMETHING before it let go.

and, i never one time said they dont have catastrophic failures, i said they dont do it without warning.
learn to read.

and i think its you that has a lot to learn.

My bad, that didn't read correctly. It should have said "Wheel bearings don't have catastrophic failures without notice?"

There is no set rule for how or when a part fails. The idea is to replace it before it fails to a point that it causes damage that will cost more than just replacement costs. Batteries are no different than wheel bearings. You know they will fail so you can either roll the dice or be proactive.

The OP is making the right choice by proactively replacing his battery. While he could make the trip just fine, the cost of failure when he doesn't have the resources to fix the issue could end up costing him a lot more.
 

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