Beginner Fluid Maintenance

[1000MPH]

Edit: oops, I didn’t read DougR’s post closely at first. Looks like we’re saying the same thing. Might spring for a new dipstick for $12.50.

For most I think, it’s not that you can’t see the oil, it’s that it creeps up the stick. Usually one side more than the other. I always wait until the oil has been sitting overnight before I try to read it even though it goes against official procedure. Even then it’s usually only readable on one side.

 

[pointman]

Drive shaft fluid every 6 months??

 

[DougR]

It's difficult to get a consistent oil level reading because the dipstick guide tube enters engine block at the back near the firewall. A section of the tube is very close to horizontal. If I rotate the dipstick 90 degrees, it cannot be inserted past the first bend in the guide. I kept probing and rotating the dipstick until I reached a point where it would barely get past the guide bends. Upon removing the stick, one edge had a long trail of oil, however the opposite edge was clean. Wiping the stick on a paper towel as shown in the above YouTube video confirmed oil level is right at full with a -50140 dipstick part number. Two more measurements made without probing and rotating showed oil level almost 1 cm high. Vehicle was cold and had not been driven for 2 days, which is very rare.

 

[DougEFresh2]

Drive shaft fluid every 6 months??

I have never actually used a grease gun before. So, I'll start there. I looked through so many forums about how often I should grease the drive shaft, and I kept seeing either every oil change or every other oil change. I also kept seeing that if the 4Runner is used around mud, dirt and water off-roading that it's a good thing to just grease it again because grease is more susceptible to the elements than oil is in the sealed system.

If you have a differing opinion and at least some reference for me to read backing up your claim, I would be more than happy to look at it and possibly make corrections. I'm constantly updating this when I find out more or better information. I have one more thing to update that I know about which is the socket size needed to re-torque the 19 transmission valve body
assembly bolts, for example.
Thank you!:keyboard:

 

[Davashcow]

Super helpful thread for this new owner. Having the part numbers in one place is awesome. I swapped 4 new quarts of Toyota WS tranny fluid for some original fill and the difference is amazing!

Regarding the diff fluid: I’m a little torn regarding what to use as an alternative to the Toyota gear oil, which is ridiculously priced. It seems that two of the popular favorites (M1 75w90 and Redline) have LSD additives which I’ve found some recommendations AGAINST if you don’t have an actual LSD. Thoughts?

I did decide to pony up and buy the Toyota LF transfer oil. Pricey, but that’s an expensive component to shirk on.

 

[DougEFresh2]

Super helpful thread for this new owner. Having the part numbers in one place is awesome. I swapped 4 new quarts of Toyota WS tranny fluid for some original fill and the difference is amazing!

Regarding the diff fluid: I’m a little torn regarding what to use as an alternative to the Toyota gear oil, which is ridiculously priced. It seems that two of the popular favorites (M1 75w90 and Redline) have LSD additives which I’ve found some recommendations AGAINST if you don’t have an actual LSD. Thoughts?

I did decide to pony up and buy the Toyota LF transfer oil. Pricey, but that’s an expensive component to shirk on.

Good question! Have a look at this website:
Red Line Synthetic Oil. 75W85 GL-5 Gear Oil

In the description, it states: "This product is not designed for use in most manual transmissions or transaxles with synchronizers, as extreme slipperiness may cause shifting problems"

On the bottom of the page, under "PRODUCT DETAILS", it states:
"Exceed API GL-5 specifications"

And under "OEM COMPATIBILITY", it states that it's compatible with:
"Toyota/Lexus 08885-02506".
This is referring to:
"Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT 75W-85 GL-5: Toyota part #: 0888502506"

As far as extra additives for LSD's, it does state:
"Contains additional friction modifiers for suitability with clutch-type limited slip differentials"
The word "additional" in this statement makes me think that it works for LSD's in ADDITION to what it was designed to do.

So, because it lists "Toyota/Lexus 08885-02506" and that it "Exceed API GL-5 specifications", personally, I feel confident using this. However, as stated at the very top of my post, I do mention that I'm not the most mechanically inclined person. I'm just doing the best that I can to do as much of my own maintenance as I can. Taking a 4Runner in to the dealership to JUST do an ATF CHANGE (not flush) I've been reading is between $350-400!!!
Anyway, I'm not guaranteeing anything, but I'm doing everything that I post to my own vehicle, if that gives you any comfort. Taking your 4Runner in for ALL the recommended service intervals..... you would end up spending what the car's worth after a decade! LOL. Screw that!
I hope this answers your question!

 

[Davashcow]

I changed my transfer case today with Toyota liquid gold 75w LF oil. I have just over .5 qt left (550 mL exactly) if anyone wants to grab it for free in Chapel Hill, NC.

Text 622-6141. Area code is original NC.

 

[Ejrobin]

Does this also cover the 2020 off-road?

 

[SpeedyKevin]

Does this also cover the 2020 off-road?

All trims are the same (except drive train for Limited)

 

[DougEFresh2]

Does this also cover the 2020 off-road?

SpeedyKevin is mostly correct. Technically, this only covers 2016. However, there are only minor changes between each year of the 5th gen. Some examples that I'm aware of include the addition of the "Emission Control Valve Set" starting in 2013 that needs to be removed to replace the spark plugs (my spark plug guide I made covers this). Also, take a look at one image on the very bottom that lists all engines, transmissions and transfer cases used from 2010 - 2020. You'll notice that in 2020, the 4Runner no longer uses the electronic dial actuated transfer case for the part-time 4WD (VF2BM) anymore that they've used since 2013. Now they use one called the VF2CM.
I can't imagine it's wildly different from the old one, but the owner's manual should show how much fluid it uses, and really, the only thing I would personally like to know is whether or not the torque specs for the fill & drain plugs are the same.
Other than those 2 things, everything else SHOULD be the same as far as "basic maintenance" is concerned.

 

[renau001]

thank you sir

 

[1000MPH]

Interesting when I google that new transfer case (VF2CM) there’s a discussion on Tacoma World similar to ours about the T/C fluid. Some people on there reported shifting issues using alternative fluids. I’d take that with a grain of salt but thought I’d report it. There’s also pdf about developing a thinner fluid to improve efficiency.
‘16-newer Transfer Cases | Tacoma World

Edits: Transfer Case!

 

[Captsolo]

Hi, I have a 2020 4Runner SR5 4WD. I did my oil change at 5500 a few days ago and I'm having issues with reading the oil level. The level keeps showing that it is overfilled (about 2-3 cm above the second dot). I've read online about how others are having issues as well. I used mobil 1 so it is very clear which doesn't help obviously. I put in the full 6.6 Qt after draining everything. Do you have any advice on what I should do to get an accurate reading? Should I drain some of it out? Thank you!

I did the same thing with my 2005. Had to get underneath and drain off a quart or so.:lol:

Important thing is to change every 5000 miles with right stuff. I like conventional. Tried synthetic. Just a waste of money IMO. Conventional is better IMO. 10,000 / 20000 mile oil changes and you get “mud” in your crank case!

 

[DougR]

... Important thing is to change every 5000 miles with right stuff ... 10,000 / 20000 mile oil changes and you get “mud” in your crank case!

Your location, the Bahamas, should qualify as "severe service" or "special operating conditions" so, a shorter OCI is recommended. Perhaps you have had an oil analysis to help determine that 5000 miles is the limit under the conditions in which your vehicle operates? Short frequent trips? Slow stop and go traffic? Towing? Commercial use? Heavy vehicle load? High humidity? Salty air ... it all adds up to require frequent engine, transmission and gear oil changes.

 

[renau001]

Just for reference, it is not difficult to get an accurate oil reading, even on these smooth dipsticks.

1) warm engine
2) shut off engine
3) remove dipstick promptly
4) wait 5 mins
5) insert dipstick slowly
6) wait 10 seconds
7) remove dipstick slowly
8) read level

I’m sure there are other ways, but I get a perfect, consistent reading this way every time with no splotchiness or creep up the sides that makes it hard to read. All the oil in the dipstick housing drains back down during the 5 minute wait.

 

[renau001]

[MENTION=211123]DougR[/MENTION] have you done a brake fluid flush yet? I like the look of the brake bleeder bottle you linked to.

 

[DougEFresh2]

[MENTION=211123]DougR[/MENTION] have you done a brake fluid flush yet? I like the look of the brake bleeder bottle you linked to.

No. I bought the bottle, but it's sitting in the cabinet in my garage, atm. I'm only a couple hundred miles away from 50k, so, I'm going to be experiencing quite a few new procedures here very shortly. After I hit 50k, I'll be doing a transmission flush, brake bleed, steering fluid flush and maybe an A/C refresh, depending on how productive I'm feeling.

 

[DougR]

[MENTION=211123]DougR[/MENTION] have you done a brake fluid flush yet? I like the look of the brake bleeder bottle you linked to.

I'm DougR ... YES, the brake bleeder bottle worked very well. I easily flushed all the brake fluid.

 

[DougEFresh2]

I'm DougR ... YES, the brake bleeder bottle worked very well. I easily flushed all the brake fluid.

LOL ooops!

 

[TravelingTaco]

Amazing thread! Thank you