Beginner Fluid Maintenance
- Thread starter DougEFresh2
- Start date
Thanks for the guide. I have been using the dealer for all of my changes, up to now. My dealer is so booked that it’s almost half a month away for an appointment. I do all of my oil changes on my diesel, so not new to changing oil. Well that is what I.said before doing the 4Runner. I was able to get the oil out and everything looked good. That was until I came to the Oil filter housing. Was able to drain out the oil no problem but when it came time to remove the housing, that was a no go. I started using a cheater bar but decided to back off doing that on the plastic housing. I felt I was putting a lot of pressure on the breaker bar but nothing. I didn’t want to break the housing. If anyone has experienced a oversight housing, just how much have you had to crank on the housing to make it give? I truly believe the prior oil change tech over tightened the housing.
DougEFresh2
New member
Dealerships have almost always overtightened bolts and fittings when I used to take my vehicles in. My housing was very tight when I first did it on my 4Runner, however, I don't think it was as tight as yours is, based on your description.
What tool are you using to remove the oil filter housing?
I recommend using this: Motivx Tools MX2320
( Amazon.com: Motivx Tools MX2320-US 64.3mm 14 Flute Precision CNC Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Wrench Compatible with all Toyota and Lexus Cartridge Style Oil Filter Caps and Select Spin-On Filters : Automotive )
DougR
Member
I used an 18" cheater pipe on a 18" breaker bar with a 27 mm 1/2 inch drive socket on a Motiv oil filter wrench. I braced one foot against the inside of a front tire, held the breaker bar extension in my left hand, and steadily applied torque with my right hand until it broke free. I had a genuine Toyota metal oil filter housing on hand to replace the plastic one.
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Thanks, I do have the Motiv MX2320 and a 64mm x 14 flute type with the slots. It is really tight.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I will give it a go again this weekend with a bigger bar. Having a spare on hand may be a good idea though. I will be doing the fluids from now on.
ElectroBoy
Banned
This is a common problem. When you finally get it off you might want to transition to the metal oil filter housing like so many have. If you break tabs on the plastic housing you can try loosening it with a plumber’s pipe wrench that has wide jaws. Good luck.
lewdog998
New member
I just replaced mine with amsoil 75/90 severe synthetic. Dealer didn't even have oe fluid available as they used bulk mobil 1 75/90. Same stuff they put in diffs.
CanmoreJim
New member
EXCELLENT! Thanks much, jim
Awesome post with tons of helpful information. Thank you!
Just a note: I think the rear diff fill and drain plug gasket part numbers may actually be 1215710010. That seems to be the part commonly sold for those applications, but I don't know where to look for a definitive answer.
Just a note: I think the rear diff fill and drain plug gasket part numbers may actually be 1215710010. That seems to be the part commonly sold for those applications, but I don't know where to look for a definitive answer.
DougEFresh2
New member
To find current part numbers, go here: Parts | Toyota Auto Parts
I've noticed that there are many parts that have their part number superseded. You might very well be correct. The part you listed, as an example, has a LOT of superseded part numbers, just go to the link below and search for "Supersessions".
Gasket; Plug | Part #1215710010 | Toyota Auto Parts
With all the part numbers I've listed in this guide, it would be a part-time job to update them all regularly.
Great reference. I get these are standard intervals, but 3 years on a cabin air filter is way too long. I change mine every 6-9 months. The high humidity combined with organic matter, pollen, and everything else trashes them quick. I’d recommend no more than a year of you care about your interior air quality.
I may be reading your comment wrong, but the differentials use a different oil than the transfer case.
08885-02506 For Diffs
08885-81080 For transfer case
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DougEFresh2
New member
Do you have a link or reference for these part numbers?
This is what I have listed:
Transfer Case (Part-Time 4X4 w/ Electronic Dial):
Classification: SAE 75W
Toyota Fluid: Toyota SAE LF 75W: Toyota part #: 0888581080
Preferred Fluid: Royal Purple ROY01512 Synchromax synthetic
Alternative Fluid: Red Line MT-LV 70W/75W GL-4 Gear Oil
Front Differential:
Classification: LT 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent
Toyota Fluid:
Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT 75W-85 GL-5: Toyota part #: 0888502506
Preferred Fluid: Red Line 50104 75W85 GL-5 Gear Oil
Rear Differential:
Classification: LT 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent
Toyota Fluid:
Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT 75W-85 GL-5: Toyota part #: 0888502506
Preferred Fluid: Red Line 50104 75W85 GL-5 Gear Oil
You posted the same Toyota PNs as I did. Just take the hyphen(dash) out of mine.
Differential/Gear Oil is different than Transfer Case .
DougEFresh2
New member
that's weird. i was notified that one of your responses was directed to me. nvm.
kirdtheape
New member
I purchases the liquid tester pen as mentioned by the OP. I tried it on my 992k mile 2016 4runner (never had brake fluid changed) and it did not register anything above 0%. Is this to be expected or is this pen broken?
Chris__Colorado
Junior Member
Great guide. I'll add some maintenance items to consider that I've been doing for over 40 years with great results--and my dad for over 60 years (he was a master maintenance machinist in a factory, boilerplant operator, etc.)
Drain and fill the brake master cylinder every summer. I do this by using a repurposed turkey baster.
I pop the cover off the braker master cylinder, use the turkey baster to suck out as much brake fluid as I can, and refill with fresh fluid. Reinstall the brake master cylinder cover.
Takes all of five minutes. Usually, I'll do this three times each summer, a week or more apart or when I remember.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs water. Water causes rust. Rust particles wear seals out. Most brake fluids are clear. If your's has any coloration, it's due to rust particles. Drain and fill
Doing this, I've never had to do a brake "flush" and never have had any issues with the brakes--up to 270,000 miles on various vehicles.
I do the same for the power steering reservoir, but use a different turkey baster.
Safety note: These two turkey basters are labeled, stay in the garage, and are never ever used for food service.
Hope this helps.
Chris__Colorado
PS A simple drain and fill every two years/30,000 miles on the transmission does wonders for longevity on every car I've owned (Diff fluids every 50K). Oil changes (fully synthetic) every 5K with a filter change (TRD oil filter on my 4runner limited) every other oil change (every 10K miles). Preventive maintenance can work wonders for equipment longevity. Always use the Toyota Special Operating Conditions or "severe" use (like towing) intervals and you'll be amazed https://assets.sia.toyota.com/publications/en/omms-s/T-MMS-224Runner/pdf/T-MMS-224Runner.pdf
Drain and fill the brake master cylinder every summer. I do this by using a repurposed turkey baster.
I pop the cover off the braker master cylinder, use the turkey baster to suck out as much brake fluid as I can, and refill with fresh fluid. Reinstall the brake master cylinder cover.
Takes all of five minutes. Usually, I'll do this three times each summer, a week or more apart or when I remember.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs water. Water causes rust. Rust particles wear seals out. Most brake fluids are clear. If your's has any coloration, it's due to rust particles. Drain and fill
Doing this, I've never had to do a brake "flush" and never have had any issues with the brakes--up to 270,000 miles on various vehicles.
I do the same for the power steering reservoir, but use a different turkey baster.
Safety note: These two turkey basters are labeled, stay in the garage, and are never ever used for food service.
Hope this helps.
Chris__Colorado
PS A simple drain and fill every two years/30,000 miles on the transmission does wonders for longevity on every car I've owned (Diff fluids every 50K). Oil changes (fully synthetic) every 5K with a filter change (TRD oil filter on my 4runner limited) every other oil change (every 10K miles). Preventive maintenance can work wonders for equipment longevity. Always use the Toyota Special Operating Conditions or "severe" use (like towing) intervals and you'll be amazed https://assets.sia.toyota.com/publications/en/omms-s/T-MMS-224Runner/pdf/T-MMS-224Runner.pdf
