Bent Rear Axle, Need Advice

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Anyone else bend their rear axle on a trail before?

Truck still drives fine, nothing major. But i do have a creaking noise that happens any time i push the brakes. Driving me nuts, so i want to go ahead and get this fixed.

Dealership wants $1800.. i looked up axle and wheel bearing assembly online and looks like i can get majority of the parts for $800-$900~

I should have no problem fixing it myself, but am reaching out to see if anyone has replaced one yet. If anyone has tips, guides, repairs manuals, anything would be helpful.

Thanks!
 
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I'm not going to be a ton of help here, bit now would be the time to upgrade or regear if you plan to do so. I have bashed my axle pretty good and I haven't bent it! That's crazy man. Keep us posted on how it goes.

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What did the dealer want $1800 to do?

It's not uncommon to bend or separate an axle tube at the center section connection. Heavy duty axles have gusseted tubes to prevent that. Many guys have their tubes re-welded than rely on press fittings. Always use a jig when welding your rear axle, heat makes metal warp/move.

I would find a rear-end speciality shop and have them jig measure the axle. If it is out of true, they maybe able to fix it. If not, you may be better off getting a replacement housing from a junkyard and rebuilding your rear axle. Independent rear suspension might be for you *wink*

Good luck, post pics and keep this thread updated for the rest of us!
 
Would like to see some pictures of where it is bent. I remember the FJ guys bending a lot of axle housings trying to hit jumps and the like... It needs a truss.

Wait.. you have a 2016. Should be under warranty... What gives? Accident?
 
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Is it your axle shaft flange? I would doubt you're housing is bent.

I am highly doubting the housing is bent too. From what i can tell, its most likely the flange or the axle shaft itself.

It feels like there's a million details missing,
:worthless

Haha; i was out on the trails and needed to climb a wet high incline right bank turn. Had to gun it a bit, slid into a hole and feel like i smashed the right rear on/in that hole. Truck made it out but i really though i broke something. Came out to check, saw a big chunk of mud on my slider and thought i smashed into the slider and said to myself. Thank God i bought the sliders. Went along and drove for months with zero issues. Come now i started a creaking noise for the past few months now.

Started to troubleshoot, driving myself crazy, rotors, switching wheels, then finally changed pads. Weirdly it went away, thought maybe it was my pad some how although i highly doubted it because the sound/creak was rotation based and had 2 spots on the wheel where it would creak. I never did notice to put the truck up on stands and try to drive it as i am always working on my truck on my own.

Recently took the truck to Toyota for the free maintenance and while they had the truck in the bay, i opted in for the bs $110 diagnostics fee for them to see if they can find out what was going on. Service writer was a pain in my ass and treated me with the worst customer experience in my life. I ended up convincing the service tech to put the truck on the lift and let him put it in gear while i looked from the ground. Immediately i saw my caliper swaying horizontally back and forth. At that point this is when i thought shit, i bent an axle shaft. They too ask how or when it happened and i said i have no idea. The only thing that i can link it back to was the time i offroaded as explained above, but its just been so long since that time i didnt initially link the two scenarios.

My thoughts are when i changed the pads, that it just pushed the axle back to a certain spot where the creaking noise/rubbing of wherever its happening to stop. But as the pads wear down the sound has come back.

End of the day, i feel like i wasted $110 dollars to toyota for myself to diag. the truck. I pretty much paid them $110 to put the truck on the lift and put it in gear. No hard feelings, i agreed to paying as at this point i am driving myself crazy trying to figure out what the sound was. So $110 to confirm that was something i wouldnt be able to do on my own as i would never would have been able to drive it while looking at it. I know now i probably could have recorded the wheel while driving... haha

Hopefully that is enough details.

What did the dealer want $1800 to do?

It's not uncommon to bend or separate an axle tube at the center section connection. Heavy duty axles have gusseted tubes to prevent that. Many guys have their tubes re-welded than rely on press fittings. Always use a jig when welding your rear axle, heat makes metal warp/move.

I would find a rear-end speciality shop and have them jig measure the axle. If it is out of true, they maybe able to fix it. If not, you may be better off getting a replacement housing from a junkyard and rebuilding your rear axle. Independent rear suspension might be for you *wink*

Good luck, post pics and keep this thread updated for the rest of us!

$1800 for parts and labor. To swap and replace the axle shaft with new wheel bearings. That's it. Labor charge was actually only estimated at $300 and the rest is parts.

I've tried looking, but the 5th gens are still too new to find an axle assy. as of yet down here..

Definitely get a second opinion. What were you doing to bend an axle? Thats a pretty difficult and rare feat...

Trust me, i dont do anything crazy. I explained my BEST GUESS of where it could of happened in the story above but i have no idea.

Would like to see some pictures of where it is bent. I remember the FJ guys bending a lot of axle housings trying to hit jumps and the like... It needs a truss.

Wait.. you have a 2016. Should be under warranty... What gives? Accident?

Ill try to get a video of it when i have a chance to get it back up on jack stands. Long story short, when the truck was on a lift, i had a service tech drive it and noticed the caliper would wiggle left to right as the wheel rotated.

I never did attempt to jump it in any way, just your normal offroading but nothing crazy. I am thinking its not the axle housing/i am really hoping its not the housing, and that its in fact just the axle shaft/flange that is slightly bent.


Yes its a 2016 and i do have warranty, but the dealership will not warranty it since its lifted and has "oversized" wheels and tires.

I once took the truck in for my turn signal making a ticking noise when the steering wheel would spin, common problem with toyotas.. the turn signal cancellation piece..

they said the wheels and tires void the warranty for my turn signal because yea its lifted.. LOL BUNCH OF BULLSHIT. Good thing i didnt buy extended warranty. Aint worth shit if you have a single mod on your truck.
 
I would take the rotor off and make sure all the mounting surfaces are clean, then reinstall everything with a torque wrench to the proper specs. Maybe put it in gear with the rotor off and check the flange for run out, while you have it apart.
 
Yes its a 2016 and i do have warranty, but the dealership will not warranty it since its lifted and has "oversized" wheels and tires.

I once took the truck in for my turn signal making a ticking noise when the steering wheel would spin, common problem with toyotas.. the turn signal cancellation piece..

they said the wheels and tires void the warranty for my turn signal because yea its lifted.. LOL BUNCH OF BULLSHIT. Good thing i didnt buy extended warranty. Aint worth shit if you have a single mod on your truck.

This is totally false. They need to prove that those particular parts caused the other issues.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson–Moss_Warranty_Act
 
Anyone else bend their rear axle on a trail before?

Truck still drives fine, nothing major. But i do have a creaking noise that happens any time i push the brakes. Driving me nuts, so i want to go ahead and get this fixed.

Dealership wants $1800.. i looked up axle and wheel bearing assembly online and looks like i can get majority of the parts for $800-$900~

I should have no problem fixing it myself, but am reaching out to see if anyone has replaced one yet. If anyone has tips, guides, repairs manuals, anything would be helpful.

Thanks!
should be no big deal to change it yourself. if you do it right, you wont even lose any gear oil.
 
I would take the rotor off and make sure all the mounting surfaces are clean, then reinstall everything with a torque wrench to the proper specs. Maybe put it in gear with the rotor off and check the flange for run out, while you have it apart.

I did that the first time around. Took off the rotor, caliper, shoes, everything cleaned it all up and buttoned it back together. Started instantly making the same noise again once i started to drive it.

I definitely see run out visually with my own eyes when spinning the rotor on its own. I thought it was a warped rotor, then switched rotors on each side and the run out stayed on the affected side and spun true on the other. So i know for sure its not the rotor and either the flange or the shaft. Either way both are connected so theyd have to be changed out.

This is totally false. They need to prove that those particular parts caused the other issues.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson–Moss_Warranty_Act

Trust me i feel the same way. Ill try to use this as ammo when i go back but they are complete *******s when its come to getting anything covered by warranty.

should be no big deal to change it yourself. if you do it right, you wont even lose any gear oil.

see this is what i kind of need to hear. Sounds like you are speaking from experience? Is it the 3 or 4 bolts thats all that hold the axle to the housing? lets say i were to source all the parts on my own, had it pressed together then spend a day doing a quick swap?

Hard part is knowing all the parts i need to order and also finding a shop who can pressed the bearing and axle together to spec. which i wouldnt know what it should even be at.

any advise helps.

Thank you
 
Here is what it looks like i need to put together:

8418705.gif


and #2 in here:
8418725.gif
 
Sounds like a bent hub flange on the axle shaft. This happens more than you think and I've done it on a couple different trucks before. I would try to find an axle shaft at a wrecking yard and put it on a lathe before you commit to installing it or buying it. I've swapped axle shafts before only to discover that the replacement was also bent. Once you do find a good axle shaft replacement and get it installed, have an alignment shop check the angles on the rear axle to see if the housing is bent (I doubt it). $1800 seems a little high to me but parts and labor is crazy at the dealer.
 
I'd love to help, but... since you're not from Utah sorry bud.

Wouldn't it suck if we were all *******s like Hawaiians?

(I know it wasn't you)

No need for a press to go back together. It can be used. Otherwise you can use a pipe and hammer. Since you're not reusing the axle you don't need a press. Just get the parts and tap them together. There's a few YouTube videos that can walk you through it. Basically start by jacking up the bent side only. Tilt the axle so the gear line runs to the other side. Remove the wheel. Unbolt the brake caliper but do not touch the brake line. Hang the caliper out of the way. Then remove the abs wire. Be careful with it. Next remove the 4 bolts that are behind the brakes going into the housing. This will release the axle. You can then pull it out. Then move the parts for the brakes over to the new one. Don't plan on reusing the bearing, the spacer, or the c-clip. I'd also put a new seal in the axle while you're there. Buy 2 axle seals. Good chance you'll ruin one of its your first time. Then put it all back together the way it came out. I'd give yourself a day to get it done. If you know what you're doing it's a 1 hour job.

Good luck.
 

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