Best Clutch

Mark_BC

Mark_BC

Senior Member
I have the 3.4 litre engine and it's time to get a new clutch. Mine doesn't feel good and it engages near the top of the pedal stroke. I am thinking of the Marlin Crawler clutch. The alternative is OEM. Any opinions? [MENTION=7105]Scramble[/MENTION] I'm lookin at you, kid. :hello: I don't do hard rock crawling, but I do go off road a lot. A lot of city driving too.
 
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I used a NAPA Kevlar cermic LUK clutch. Didn't last long but held up great and rarely slipped.

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
 
I am very happy with my Marlin Crawler clutch. With that said My OEM clutch lasted over 150K...I just wanted to try something different. IMO both feel similar.
 
Mark_BC said:
I have the 3.4 litre engine and it's time to get a new clutch. Mine doesn't feel good and it engages near the top of the pedal stroke. I am thinking of the Marlin Crawler clutch. The alternative is OEM. Any opinions? [MENTION=7105]Scramble[/MENTION] I'm lookin at you, kid. :hello: I don't do hard rock crawling, but I do go off road a lot. A lot of city driving too.
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Marlin is the way to go & for another 50 or 80 $ I got their flywheel too. Trying to remember, I did this in 2013. They had 2 choices from what I remember, 900# & 1200#, OEM is 700 or 750#. I got the 900# because I dont do alot of towing. It feels just like stock but grabs better when you want to smoke the tires. :D (thats probably how I messed up my driveshaft but I replaced it with a beefier Tom Woods that can handle the abuse) I've only put 20k miles on the clutch in 4 years but it's been perfect.
 
I installed this Aisin kit about 5,000 miles ago and had my flywheel resurfaced. Everything feels great, although I don't have much to compare it to (except the old clutch).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00340FETK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518025771&sr=1-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&vehicle=1999-76-1005-968--9--8-3995-1793-1-1--199-1-0&keywords=Aisin+clutch&dpPl=1&dpID=41jN6Jyj3pL&ref=plSrch

I considered the Marlin Crawler kit, but I figured a higher spring force would just mean the potential to transmit higher torques that will damage the transmission and other parts in the system. I didn't see the need for one (no supercharger and I don't rock crawl) so I went with the Aisin.
 
Non OEM

Mark_BC said:
I have the 3.4 litre engine and it's time to get a new clutch. Mine doesn't feel good and it engages near the top of the pedal stroke. I am thinking of the Marlin Crawler clutch. The alternative is OEM. Any opinions? [MENTION=7105]Scramble[/MENTION] I'm lookin at you, kid. :hello: I don't do hard rock crawling, but I do go off road a lot. A lot of city driving too.
Click to expand...

I tried to do the marlin clutch but they weren't available and Marlin recommended an LCE pro comp. I pull 2 seadoo RXT supercharged trailer out of the water with mine on the boat ramp and NO slipping. A little aggressive but very nice
 
I have a marlin on mine and it has been awesome for 2ish years now. I pulled the transmission off to do someting last month and it all looked great still. If you don't have the marlin in the budget, then I would go with an Aisin from rockauto.

The only problem I had was with the flywheel I bought from NAPA. It was a LUK brand and the teeth were machined backwards. It's the same exact one marlin sells for a much higher price. $40 on rockauto, $100 at NAPA, and $120. If you decide to go with a LUK flywheel, look the teeth over carefully and make sure they are identical to the stock flywheel teeth or the starter will grind and make terrible noises.
 
Mark_BC said:
I have the 3.4 litre engine and it's time to get a new clutch. Mine doesn't feel good and it engages near the top of the pedal stroke. I am thinking of the Marlin Crawler clutch. The alternative is OEM. Any opinions? [MENTION=7105]Scramble[/MENTION] I'm lookin at you, kid. :hello: I don't do hard rock crawling, but I do go off road a lot. A lot of city driving too.
Click to expand...

Have you tried adjusting the stroke on your clutch master cylinder first?
 
Chuckles89 said:
I have a marlin on mine and it has been awesome for 2ish years now. I pulled the transmission off to do someting last month and it all looked great still. If you don't have the marlin in the budget, then I would go with an Aisin from rockauto.

The only problem I had was with the flywheel I bought from NAPA. It was a LUK brand and the teeth were machined backwards. It's the same exact one marlin sells for a much higher price. $40 on rockauto, $100 at NAPA, and $120. If you decide to go with a LUK flywheel, look the teeth over carefully and make sure they are identical to the stock flywheel teeth or the starter will grind and make terrible noises.
Click to expand...

I pulled the trigger on the Marlin Crawler one last night. Too bad I read your comment today because I ordered the flywheel from them too!!!
 
JZiggy said:
Have you tried adjusting the stroke on your clutch master cylinder first?
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No. I recall reading somewhere that with the hydraulic clutches there isn't much adjustment you can do but I might be wrong. To be clear, I'm going to run this clutch to the ground before swapping it out, just wanted to have a new one on hand. I was going to swap out my cylinders (got them a few months ago) but maybe I'll wait until I put in the new clutch and replace everything at once. On the other had, no harm in putting in new cylinders with an old clutch right?
 
Mark_BC said:
No. I recall reading somewhere that with the hydraulic clutches there isn't much adjustment you can do but I might be wrong. To be clear, I'm going to run this clutch to the ground before swapping it out, just wanted to have a new one on hand. I was going to swap out my cylinders (got them a few months ago) but maybe I'll wait until I put in the new clutch and replace everything at once. On the other had, no harm in putting in new cylinders with an old clutch right?
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You can totally adjust it. It might be that the clutch is truly at its end or it could be that the contact point has just moved up and there's still life left in it. There's just a jam nut on the rod that goes between the master and the pedal. If I'm thinking about this right you'd want to shorten the distance of that rod somewhat to bring the contact point down. (I might have that backward)
 
Another vote for a clutch from the guy that knows more about Toyota drivelines than anyone, Marlin Czajkowski.
 
Heads up to anybody:

I bought AISIN awhile back and got burned. Not on quality, but printing. It said "TM Side" and was installed with that side facing the transmission. Right? Wrong. Turns out the same clutch disk fits multiple applications and for the 3.4 flywheel, the disks protruding end (marked as "TM") needs to sink into the flywheel, or in other words be backwards from all designations given.

Wish I would have known. Would have saved me from doing the job twice. Hopefully Exedy or any other is marked correctly.
 
[MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION] My Aisin from Amazon was properly marked which side goes which way. I installed it the way it was marked, and haven't had any issues *♂️
100% vote for the Aisin. My buddy has an Exedy or whatever in his Tacoma, and says he hates it, but I have no personal experience. He said the guys on TacomaWorld say nothing but OEM/Aisin/Marlin. Marlin uses a Aisin/Sachs combo, so it's basically OEM with a higher holding pressure.
Resurface your OEM flywheel. The LUK flywheel is cheap, and even Marlins guys will tell you they won't recommend them. They only sell them because customers kept asking why they don't sell flywheels. He said they honestly just get em from the parts store down the street, and they don't even come close to comparing to OEM flywheel.
That said, I am running an LUK flywheel, cause I didn't have $400 to spend on an OEM unit. Not happy about it, but it is what it is.
Happy with the Aisin clutch kit from Amazon though, and they're super reasonably priced.
 
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