Best "good-enough" shocks for 890s?

[jross20]

I need something decent, but cheap, to swap with my kings so I can send them off for a re-valve. I was thinking about 1995 LC shocks as they are CHEAP AS HELL, but I wanted to see what you guys might suggest. I'm running 890 coils, so I don't want to get anything too short that would explode over a bump.

I'm also curious to see how the LC's shocks ride...but I also don't know about the larger shaft diameter and all that jazz. Plus I've heard that 890s might drop out with them? $45 a shock is tempting though...

:ranger:

 

[the_welfare_wagon]

Hey! Been a while

To keep the answer short I'll say it like this. They are stiff but it's not bad IMO. As long as you keep your swaybars on your 890s will NOT fall out. Not even close. You will run into the driveshaft/gas tank skid hitting but a quick cut will solve that.

No mods needed to run them. They bolt right up. You can enlarge the hole on the frame but it's not required.

I'm running this current setup and love it. Flex is like 4 inches more than stock. I am using 1995 bravada bumpstops though and 95 4runner swaybar links. Both bolt on, no mods

Hope this helps

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[jross20]

Hey! Been a while

To keep the answer short I'll say it like this. They are stiff but it's not bad IMO. As long as you keep your swaybars on your 890s will NOT fall out. Not even close. You will run into the driveshaft/gas tank skid hitting but a quick cut will solve that.

No mods needed to run them. They bolt right up. You can enlarge the hole on the frame but it's not required.

I'm running this current setup and love it. Flex is like 4 inches more than stock. I am using 1995 bravada bumpstops though and 95 4runner swaybar links. Both bolt on, no mods

Hope this helps

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Hey welfare! How has it been?

Okay well I think I can handle what you described, I was just worried about the potential of losing a spring if just for any reason throughout the day maybe I'm like large bump or something things got flexed out. I figured that really shouldn't be able to happen throughout the day, but I didn't want to just assume and then have a bad day... Haha...

I'm assuming they are not as stiff as the kings that I have on now, those kings in the rear are ridiculously stiff even on the softest setting... That is why I'm sending them in for a rebound although I guess we'll see how the LC's feel.

You mentioned that they won't fall out as long as the sway bar is on, does this matter if I'm extended the sway bar links?

 

[the_welfare_wagon]

As long as your daily driving and not offroading I'd say the swaybar links won't matter too much. If you do go offroad and get flexy with the LC shocks you will probably snap the stock links.

Since these shocks are meant for a almost 3 ton vehicle they do smooth out with weight in the back but 99% of the time I have none in the back.

Also if your not gonna offroad with them I wouldn't do the gas tank skid cut either as it only hits under full flex.

Below is a photo of full flex/lifting a wheel with the LC shocks in.

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[the_welfare_wagon]

Sorry, I just realized I forgot to answer the swaybar question.

I'm running 1995 4runner links which are ~2 inches longer than stock and the 890s are firmly in place. I grabbed onto the 890s at full flex and could literally shake the whole truck back and forth when yanking on them. Solidly in place. I do have the top cone bumpstops in there though. I'm sure this adds another inch or so to their length

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[Romeo1]

Why not just get a set of 5100s and be done with it? Then you’ll have a good backup set once/when the kings come back.

 

[jross20]

As long as your daily driving and not offroading I'd say the swaybar links won't matter too much. If you do go offroad and get flexy with the LC shocks you will probably snap the stock links.

Since these shocks are meant for a almost 3 ton vehicle they do smooth out with weight in the back but 99% of the time I have none in the back.

Also if your not gonna offroad with them I wouldn't do the gas tank skid cut either as it only hits under full flex.

Below is a photo of full flex/lifting a wheel with the LC shocks in.

That looks pretty good, have you measured your flex and compression to see how much travel you're getting? Like wheel travel.

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Sorry, I just realized I forgot to answer the swaybar question.

I'm running 1995 4runner links which are ~2 inches longer than stock and the 890s are firmly in place. I grabbed onto the 890s at full flex and could literally shake the whole truck back and forth when yanking on them. Solidly in place. I do have the top cone bumpstops in there though. I'm sure this adds another inch or so to their length

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Okay yeah it sounds like we have the same setup, the second gen links and the little bumper things at the top. Okay that's good, while I still haven't officially gone on the trails yet because it's not finished, I do occasionally do some practice on some family property just for fun so I'll just tone it down a bit...haha.

Why not just get a set of 5100s and be done with it? Then you’ll have a good backup set once/when the kings come back.

Well I thought about this but the main thing is that I want to spend as little as possible... I'm already annoyed that the Kings didn't ride as expected and that I have to get them revalved... Honey maybe my expectations of $1,000 pair of shocks were not where they should be, or maybe the pair I have has a defect... I'm not sure.. anyway, I just need something cheap and basic to use while they're being revalved.

 

[repo]

Sorry, I just realized I forgot to answer the swaybar question.

I'm running 1995 4runner links which are ~2 inches longer than stock and the 890s are firmly in place. I grabbed onto the 890s at full flex and could literally shake the whole truck back and forth when yanking on them. Solidly in place. I do have the top cone bumpstops in there though. I'm sure this adds another inch or so to their length

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

Do you remember if they are 2nd gen rear or front links in the rear? And what links do you use in the front? I think I have 3rd gen front on the rear and 2nd gen rears on the front or something like that but I need to look it up in my log. The fronts keep snapping off the driver side top, I think it's the poly bushings putting too much stress on them and the sway bar itself is bent maybe, it tends to bind up.

 

[repo]

I'm pretty sure 4th gen 5160s will work but haven't seen it talked about much. I think SS was using them in one of their kits a while ago. They mount upside down though and you'll definitely need extended bumpstops. I plan on trying those when my 5100 tundras (with replaced lower bushing to fit) give out. I have 890s + 10mm spacers.

 

[Romeo1]

Okay yeah it sounds like we have the same setup, the second gen links and the little bumper things at the top. Okay that's good, while I still haven't officially gone on the trails yet because it's not finished, I do occasionally do some practice on some family property just for fun so I'll just tone it down a bit...haha.



Well I thought about this but the main thing is that I want to spend as little as possible... I'm already annoyed that the Kings didn't ride as expected and that I have to get them revalved... Honey maybe my expectations of $1,000 pair of shocks were not where they should be, or maybe the pair I have has a defect... I'm not sure.. anyway, I just need something cheap and basic to use while they're being revalved.

I mean you dropped the coin for Kings….. I’d say a set of billies shouldn’t blow your budget.

I get your situation, but there’s a real possibility you’re going to have these kings removed in the future for servicing. Ya just as well have a good set of back ups. Heck, he may even find you like the backups better than the kings.

 

[RomanSchnobrich]

I've had my LC Tokicos on for about a half year now, I have no complaints and I think they'd work great for your needs. Like some folks said above, they can be a bit stiff with no added weight, but nothing unbearable. The price point is truly unbeatable, I say go for it!

 

[the_welfare_wagon]

Do you remember if they are 2nd gen rear or front links in the rear? And what links do you use in the front? I think I have 3rd gen front on the rear and 2nd gen rears on the front or something like that but I need to look it up in my log. The fronts keep snapping off the driver side top, I think it's the poly bushings putting too much stress on them and the sway bar itself is bent maybe, it tends to bind up.

Im using 95 rear links on my rear swaybar. The fronts are still the stock ones

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[the_welfare_wagon]

Okay yeah it sounds like we have the same setup, the second gen links and the little bumper things at the top. Okay that's good, while I still haven't officially gone on the trails yet because it's not finished, I do occasionally do some practice on some family property just for fun so I'll just tone it down a bit...haha.







Well I thought about this but the main thing is that I want to spend as little as possible... I'm already annoyed that the Kings didn't ride as expected and that I have to get them revalved... Honey maybe my expectations of $1,000 pair of shocks were not where they should be, or maybe the pair I have has a defect... I'm not sure.. anyway, I just need something cheap and basic to use while they're being revalved.

Also I thought I mentioned it but I guess not. You will need to extend your bumpstops fpr the LC shocks. Im using ones from a 95 oldsmobile bravada. I wouldn't waste money with the durobumps even though they are a popular option. I got em new from GM(Junkyards have em too) for 80 bucks shipped as opposed to 165 for durobumps. These also bolt right up and use the stock bolt to go back on. They are double the stock length and work amazing

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[truc.karl]

Why not just get a set of 5100s and be done with it? Then you’ll have a good backup set once/when the kings come back.

This. I'm very satisfied with the performance of my bilstein shocks. They are firm but not extremely harsh.

 

[Romeo1]

Do you remember if they are 2nd gen rear or front links in the rear? And what links do you use in the front? I think I have 3rd gen front on the rear and 2nd gen rears on the front or something like that but I need to look it up in my log. The fronts keep snapping off the driver side top, I think it's the poly bushings putting too much stress on them and the sway bar itself is bent maybe, it tends to bind up.

Don’t fight it. Just go with the overland custom design links. I’ve beaten the crap out of mine and they just keep doing what they’re supposed to do which is borrow rate and not break.

 

[Romeo1]

What didn’t you like about the way the kings were valved?

 

[repo]

Don’t fight it. Just go with the overland custom design links. I’ve beaten the crap out of mine and they just keep doing what they’re supposed to do which is borrow rate and not break.

Those are on the shopping list but for now I put stock length ones back on the front and replaced all the bushings with OE rubber ones and it seems better. I think the front sway bar is actually bent slightly because I can see it kind of twist the brackets when I was bolting them on, and the bar hits the frame on one sids before the other side when not connected to the links. I have the brackets on the correct sides but I ran them on the wrong sides by accident ones which I guess could have bent the bar.

Already have OE rubber bushings on the rear with no problems. I'm not going to ever use poly bushings on the sway bars or links again, I think the rubber plays a part in the borrow rate vs break thing. I could drive like a complete hoon with poly all around though, very flat driving on the road with 6112s. Especially with the bunch of positive caster it had before I put UCAs on, extremely controllable.

 

[Romeo1]

Sitting here drinking coffee I had a thought come to me that may be relevant to people who read this thread in the future perhaps trying to decide on a suspension system.

I’ve never personally bought the super high end shocks on anything. Truck, car, snowmobile etc. but I’ve always had the better than average equipment.

One thing we tan into on snowmobiles for a long time was everyone wanting to run fox air shocks. Neat idea, but a bear to manage spring rates due to the extremely progressive nature of an air sprung shock, not to mention highly temperature sensitive. It was always hard to dial in. Either way too much rate for the pogo stick effect, or to little and it was boaty squishy city.

Another friend of mine spends a hilariously large sum regularly (well, technically expenses since he has a recreational vehicle business, but the money is never free…..) on shocks for sleds. The last super boojie set of raptors were so dang soft, it was like driving a jet ski around. Almost hard to ride really. Maybe about 10 years ago another friend has a fancy zbros setup. I forget if they were Elkas or what kind, but It was like riding on a half aired up raft. Super soggy, no confidence, and it wanted to drive into every tree well there was. Again, super Gucci with far too little rate and control.

Why does any of this even matter and what do sleds have to do with 4runners….. Rate is rate, and ride height is ride height.

I think there are applications that a custom valved system can absolutely dominate when the system is tuned properly especially in long travel systems. In a “longer” than stock travel system you have more head (travelroom to work with prior to being maxed out on travel.

The calling card of high end suspension systems seems to be comfort and ride quality which usually equates into lower rates to get there. The side effect of all that in my observations tends to be a very soft ride like arrangement that tends to bottom out very quickly when used in a stockish travel configuration.

I know that the purists will argue that digressive systems aren’t as good as a linear or progressive system in an all out application, and I’ll agree with them there. But I would argue assuming on stockish geometry/travel without going into the realm of long travel anything regardless of the vehicle type, that digressive fit the bill perfectly.

If you go look at any big travel systems whether it’s on a Can-Am or a trophy truck, the one commonality that seems to always be the case is multiple spring rates in their spring stacks. Sure in a multi rate system 2 foot long setup you can do all kinds of cool things. Bit in a single rate rather stockish system it’s too easy to go to far.

I’ve seen several king equipped rigs around town and it’s always the same. Just watch them go through an intersection or go around a corner. They always eat up half of the travel going through a storm gutter, or look like they’re going to roll over around a corner. Obviously I don’t know the full set up, they could have swaybar‘s unhooked, and not enough rate. Just a very casual observation that I’ve seen probably four or five times in the last year now while gassing up my work truck at the busiest intersection on town.

Short story long, I think it’s really important to evaluate what you’re trying to accomplish and what matters most. Obviously those blue shocks are absolutely sexy as hell. I think it’s just important to understand what you’re getting into so that you hopefully don’t end up disappointed or have a lot of drama to get them calibrated properly. It seems like the industry is trending toward all of this super off-road capable stuff that gets tuned for a street drive to maintain compliance on speed bumps which is a bit silly in my opinion. I realize that’s where 99% of the vehicles will live always, but then everybody gets stuck in that mindset.

I’ve never personally valved or rebuilt a set of shocks ever in my life, but I do understand the system, how it works, and how they’re built. If you’re in a high-performance application with a lot of travel, I think the custom systems make all the sense in the world assuming you’re willing to spend the time to get them correct. You’ll probably want more than one set of shocks around to do that well unless you can valve them yourself.

If you’re looking for a one and done OEM level of execution and for them to last a long time, I think some of the custom valved systems out there are not what a guy needs.

Look at the Ford raptor. I love seeing all these raptors around town and I highly doubt any of those shocks are getting service on the interval they’re supposed to be at. Look it up, you’ll be very surprised when you see what the interval is. Lots of guys stating online that they had low charge pressures at the 15-20k mile mark…..

Just some food for thought on a trip deep into the weeds.

 

[jross20]

I mean you dropped the coin for Kings….. I’d say a set of billies shouldn’t blow your budget.

I get your situation, but there’s a real possibility you’re going to have these kings removed in the future for servicing. Ya just as well have a good set of back ups. Heck, he may even find you like the backups better than the kings.

Well I dropped the coin for the kings and the coin is now gone... Haha. I can't justify spending $200 on shocks I may only use "sometimes". Hence why I said good enough shocks.

I've had my LC Tokicos on for about a half year now, I have no complaints and I think they'd work great for your needs. Like some folks said above, they can be a bit stiff with no added weight, but nothing unbearable. The price point is truly unbeatable, I say go for it!

Well my rear kings are currently EXTREMELY stiff...so anything less will feel better.

 

[jross20]

The rears are EXTREMELY stiff. I mean, they have virtually zero give and just slam the back up in the air when I hit a bump. Basically feels like the back has 0.5" of travel.