Best Performance Mods
- Thread starter JayKumar
- Start date
SkylineGTRracer
New member
You'll have to fab one up if you want one.
I'll chime in and say that dollar for dollar the only performance mod that makes sense is keeping our trucks mainained. We already have CAI's so spending hundreds on one is not going give much benefit for the cost. Chips? Most agree they are a waste of cash for minimal/if any real gain. I think an improved exhaust is worthwhile if you have to replace the stock anyone but replacing a good exhaust is another waste of cash.
I know this isn't what anybody wants to hear but from everything I've read it's more in line with the majority have experienced.
I know this isn't what anybody wants to hear but from everything I've read it's more in line with the majority have experienced.
RatFink
New member
What can exit the system is directly related to what is entering a system at any time. If you install a nice exhaust, it wont improve much by itself. But if you install a nice exhaust, headers, and a deck plate mod; all three mods will compound on each other and improve the system as a total.
For example, i threw a boat intake directly on top of the stock CAI(basically plate mod), headers, and remove the stock resonator only to realize that my runner subsequently changed it's shift points to adapt to the new input/outputs. It's a 4L already so just give it what it more of what it needs.
Id highly recommend either long/short tube headers. It really woke up the 1GR-FE
Though, 4th gens are particularly deficient in the performance mod market.
oljedi11950
New member
Urd y-pipe & flowmaster 70ii series muffler & afe-dry !! All I got for ya .
Marfy
New member
My solution for the v8 is afe intake, headers, custom y pipe to remove two of the four cats, high flow exhaust. Then, MAF calibrator from urd. That being said I am in the process of doing all of this and it damn expensive to gain a relatively low amount of hp. I think the real solution is super charger but that's a pretty big jump in cost too. In the end, you're probably better off just buying a Mustang GT and being comfortable that your truck is a truck and has other skills.
oljedi11950
New member
Yep hard to make a thoroughbred out of a clydesdale ! Even harder on 5th ......and the more weight we add on ie bumpers, tents, etc BAM
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
If it was dynoed my guess would be around 60-70hp gain and similiar torque gains, keeping it naturally aspirated.
vanion2
New member
I have the 06 V8 and a 93 MR2 2.2L. On the MR2 I have a custom header and exhaust with dyno runs before and after. $1700 worth of work to gain 3hp/3tq. Next up is cam work. Estimated cost of $1000 for custom grind, weld, and install expected gain of about 30hp+ because the header and exhaust were designed for this. If I wanted to add a piggy back and tune I could probably gain another 10 hp but it's about another $1000. What has any of this got to do with the 4runner? Experience and dyno proof that short of FI work most aftermarket performance on an NA engine is expensive with low returns. Oh, and loud. MR2s are not quiet to begin with and now you can hear mine coming up the street and that is with as large a high flow muffler I could fit.
Intakes are expensive and your gains will be minimal. In short, don't bother unless you just want the growl under your hood. Exhausts are pretty much the same. Loud, loss of low end torque and expensive. Headers are actually a sound investment BUT only if they are tuned right. Most aftermarket headers are designed for high rpm returns that typically are higher than the red line. In short, NA tuning isn't easy and if you don't see a dyno graph that states "your stock engine with only this product added" you are getting hosed. Most dynos show an engine that had the product plus tuning at sea level and high octane fuel and they only post up the highest run. Most dyno shops give you 3 runs and then takes the average.
If you want real performance then go FI. Superchargers or turbo. If you want to stick to NA then start with custom design headers and cams. Best bang for your buck but you aren't going to find that on the shelf and it won't be cheap.
Will intakes and exhaust add power? Yes. In single digit numbers and usually shifts power from low end to high end forcing you to stomp it to take advantage. Butt dynos are based on imagination. Unless you show me a dyno proving otherwise (I do) then it's just opinion and should be treated as such. It's your money and your truck so do what makes you happy but if you want bragging rights bring your dyno graphs to prove it.
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Intakes are expensive and your gains will be minimal. In short, don't bother unless you just want the growl under your hood. Exhausts are pretty much the same. Loud, loss of low end torque and expensive. Headers are actually a sound investment BUT only if they are tuned right. Most aftermarket headers are designed for high rpm returns that typically are higher than the red line. In short, NA tuning isn't easy and if you don't see a dyno graph that states "your stock engine with only this product added" you are getting hosed. Most dynos show an engine that had the product plus tuning at sea level and high octane fuel and they only post up the highest run. Most dyno shops give you 3 runs and then takes the average.
If you want real performance then go FI. Superchargers or turbo. If you want to stick to NA then start with custom design headers and cams. Best bang for your buck but you aren't going to find that on the shelf and it won't be cheap.
Will intakes and exhaust add power? Yes. In single digit numbers and usually shifts power from low end to high end forcing you to stomp it to take advantage. Butt dynos are based on imagination. Unless you show me a dyno proving otherwise (I do) then it's just opinion and should be treated as such. It's your money and your truck so do what makes you happy but if you want bragging rights bring your dyno graphs to prove it.
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Amen brother!
hello all.
I have a 2006 v8 sport with around 117k.
I really want to improve gas pedal response,it has this lag when you slowly press it and it doesn't do much and then all of a sudden you see the tach arrow jumping up and feel that push with engine roaring.
I haven't done much to the engine besides changing air filter from stock to k&n(the one that can be washed and lubed from time to time)....carbon filter removed as well.
tried doing sea foam about 2 years ago and haven't noticed much difference but I think I haven't done the whole procedure properly as I was kind of skeptical about it....
I am going to install Gibson cat back exhaust in a next couple of weeks since my stock one is already rattling and already repaired for couple of times ...
I don't want nor need to make a race car out of it like installing SP and turbos and allot has enough power for media just want to make it drive more responsive.
what else can I do to it to have the most productive results while not spending a fortune?
sorry for a long read and thank you all for your time and inputs on this one.
ILYA
I have a 2006 v8 sport with around 117k.
I really want to improve gas pedal response,it has this lag when you slowly press it and it doesn't do much and then all of a sudden you see the tach arrow jumping up and feel that push with engine roaring.
I haven't done much to the engine besides changing air filter from stock to k&n(the one that can be washed and lubed from time to time)....carbon filter removed as well.
tried doing sea foam about 2 years ago and haven't noticed much difference but I think I haven't done the whole procedure properly as I was kind of skeptical about it....
I am going to install Gibson cat back exhaust in a next couple of weeks since my stock one is already rattling and already repaired for couple of times ...
I don't want nor need to make a race car out of it like installing SP and turbos and allot has enough power for media just want to make it drive more responsive.
what else can I do to it to have the most productive results while not spending a fortune?
sorry for a long read and thank you all for your time and inputs on this one.
ILYA
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I'll agree its mostly pointless/expensive to try and get more hp out of our trucks but...
Dyno graphs?
I'll summarize:
+23hp and +16tq when adding an intake and a tune to the vvti V8 that already has a magnaflow catback system. This gain is throughout the powerband.
Adding headers (proven 12hp untuned gain) + performance cats + deleting the rear cats + installing a decent y pipe (factory one is crap) should gain 30hp more.
Thats +50hp over stock for $2500. Half the price of supercharging for half the hp gain.
vanion2
New member
The graph in the post you linked is a broken link because I would love to believe there is no low gain loss with bolt ons.
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Inv4drZm
Senior Member
OK, now for the results of the Split Sec PSC1-001 performance control module. We threw it on and put it on the dyno and realized anywhere from 5-10 AWHP, with alot of the runs being around 8 AWHP. We tuned from 11.8:1 AFR and leaned up to about 12.9-13:1. At one point we were around 14:1 and the power was down a bit and the torque was up alot, as much as 270 ft-lbs when it was that lean. As far as what I got, I'd say its about 8 AWHP, which is exactly what I expected. The dyno sheet says about 5 AWHP over the intake, but that was after about 10 dyno pulls in a row, it was starting to get pretty hot in there, and the cooling fan was engaged too. So anywhere from 5-8 AWHP.
Comparison - Just exhaust vs. Intake/Exhaust/Tune:
You wanted a dyno graph, here it is, 3rd page of my link. As indisputable as it gets.
BackOff
New member
Guess I will chime in as I just did a few of these things.
I have had a K&N series 63 on my 04 T4R V6 now since the beginning of 2011.
It added no real felt power, just made it louder.
Bought a ScanGuage2 and the best it saw was 230hp.
I then added the URD MAF sensor calibrator, 70mm throttle body off a 2014 T4R, the 70mm URD TB adaptor plate and a 24" Magnaflo muffler/cat-back/resonator delete.
The ScanGuage2 has now seen 272hp.
The runner feels faster, I like it better...it is louder than stock but its not obnoxious at all, more of a growl to it.
The only down side was a MPG hit, i am now getting 13mpg...however I have been in 4wd and 3rd gear for the last month after these mods because of tons of snow so my MPG is going to be off.
E-fan in the mail.
Sorry no dyno-graph.
I have had a K&N series 63 on my 04 T4R V6 now since the beginning of 2011.
It added no real felt power, just made it louder.
Bought a ScanGuage2 and the best it saw was 230hp.
I then added the URD MAF sensor calibrator, 70mm throttle body off a 2014 T4R, the 70mm URD TB adaptor plate and a 24" Magnaflo muffler/cat-back/resonator delete.
The ScanGuage2 has now seen 272hp.
The runner feels faster, I like it better...it is louder than stock but its not obnoxious at all, more of a growl to it.
The only down side was a MPG hit, i am now getting 13mpg...however I have been in 4wd and 3rd gear for the last month after these mods because of tons of snow so my MPG is going to be off.
E-fan in the mail.
Sorry no dyno-graph.
Thebeastlives
New member
Guess that statement ended this argument over what works on a 4.0 motor and the cost
