Best Torque Wrench for 2.7L 4cyl 3RZ-FE

[tripsydipsy]

Hey everyone, I just purchased a 1998 4Runner 2.7L 4cyl (so in love.) I'm a super noob, but I really want to learn how to maintain and upgrade my baby. I was wondering which torque wrench or combination of torque wrenches would be the best choice to purchase for working on her. Thanks!

 

[Hesk11dog]

welcome to the forum. Pics of your rig are always nice, inside, outside, and underneath. Your post about torque wrenches is kinda useless without knowing what you even want to do. I would first make sure you have a good mechanics tool set with deep well metric sockets and such. You would only need a torque wrench to "torque" certain bolts to spec but that is only needed on major engine components and most mods do not require it specifically. A good place to start for new owner maintenance is with OEM spark plugs and wires. Cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor. Checking fluids and possible Front and rear Diff fluid changes. searching these for a 3rd Gen 4runner will give you detailed write ups of what to do.

 

[TheDurk]

I'd start with a big one, a 1/2" drive that goes to 250 ft. lbs. if you ever want to do your own timing belt. 200 is fine if you don't. This will allow you to torque your lug nuts to the 83ft-lbs. spec and I firmly believe that the reason my brakes have avoided the dreaded brake disk "warp" for 165K miles is because I hand torque my lugs. I'm still on original disks and second set of pads. This wrench will cover almost all suspension work.

Then you will need a smaller one in 3/8" drive for most engine work. For example, water pump bolts and valve cover bolts are both around 13ft-lbs, way to small for the big one. You want to avoid using the top and bottom 20% of a wrench's range.

I also have an inch-pound wrench in 1/4" for greater precision on the small stuff, and also for use on bicycles.

Mine are all high-quality Snap-On wrenches I bought used on eBay and then had calibrated. One was a retired US AirForce wrench, in almost perfect condition.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I'd start with a big one, a 1/2" drive that goes to 250 ft. lbs. if you ever want to do your own timing belt. 200 is fine if you don't. This will allow you to torque your lug nuts to the 83ft-lbs. spec and I firmly believe that the reason my brakes have avoided the dreaded brake disk "warp" for 165K miles is because I hand torque my lugs. I'm still on original disks and second set of pads. This wrench will cover almost all suspension work.

Then you will need a smaller one in 3/8" drive for most engine work. For example, water pump bolts and valve cover bolts are both around 13ft-lbs, way to small for the big one. You want to avoid using the top and bottom 20% of a wrench's range.

I also have an inch-pound wrench in 1/4" for greater precision on the small stuff, and also for use on bicycles.

Mine are all high-quality Snap-On wrenches I bought used on eBay and then had calibrated. One was a retired US AirForce wrench, in almost perfect condition.

I use my smaller 3/8" drive for pretty much everything except for the really big jobs, I'd start there. Mine has a range up to 80 ft-lbs which will do the job for everything except pulleys and very large bolts (usually too big for a 3/8" drive anyway). I think what is best is to make sure it has a long, easy to grip handle so it makes applying torque much easier.

If you are also thinking about changing out the suspension parts and steering then a 3/8" breaker bar at least 24" long is essential. I tried using my torque wrench to do such a job and I broke it. There's no substitute for a good breaker bar. I even have a length of copper pipe to slip over it when I come across and exceptionally stuck bolt turning it into a 4' breaker bar. Nothing stalls a job faster then a bolt or nut that will not come out.

Both of these tools were from Harbor Freight and very cheap, I paid $25 for both. Yes, one did break on me but for another $10 it's been doing great. And considering how much I use it, it's not bad.

 

[cashmoney]

Ebay has amazing deals on snap on wrenches. Like a 1/3 of the price. I'm actually looking at some right now to upgrade my current tools. Getting ready to rebuild an engine and want something more accurate than my O'Reilly's one.

 

[3rzrunner]

Welcome to the forum! Is your truck a 5speed? Your going to love the 3rz engine.

If you want to save some money try looking for a high quality gently used, or floor model torque wrench, the parts stores sometimes have them for crazy prices.

As Hesk11dog said, start with these
-Plugs/wires.
-New air filter/clean whole system including MAF.
-Change All the fluids.
-New Fuel Filter! <- Made a BIG difference in pep on my 3rz.
-PCV valve.
-Valve Adjustment. (The 3rz can really benefit from it)

If your exhaust manifold is cracked, which is a common problem for the 3rz, I Highly recommend swapping it out for a performance header. I have an LCE long tube on mine, and it helps quite a bit, also sounds nice if you have a performance muffler behind it.

Also since I also have a 3rz 4runner,
If you have ANY questions with your new truck feel totally free to PM me. I would be happy to help!

 

[absalom]

$20 Harbor Freight torque wrenches were tested to be accurate 'nuff and are fine just as long as you remember to relieve tension after using it each time after using it.

 

[Konkordmusk]

$20 Harbor Freight torque wrenches were tested to be accurate 'nuff and are fine just as long as you remember to relieve tension after using it each time after using it.

I personally don't feel that 'accurate 'nuff'' is enough for me. I've had to return my 3/8s harbor freight torque wrench four times, twice because the anvil broke, once because the clicker mechanism seized, and most recently because the torque adjustment seized. Waste of time.

 

[AZBub]

Love Harbor Freight for stuff I don't mind losing, cutting or modifying. Not my choice for precision anything other than sandpaper and thats pushing it.

Its worth spending the money on a descent one with a lifetime warranty and as suggested always release the tension after use and DONT drop them on the ground.

 

[absalom]

For the more important things, a Proto 50-200 ft lb torque wrench is high on my last. However, for budget wrenching, I still maintain that HF stuff will get the job done ... most of the time.

 

[Dephcon]

All i can recommend is, get a clicky type one over the dial. Nothing worse that pulling as hard as you can on something, in a difficult position and trying to read a dial thats bouncing all over the place. Pull till you hear the click, then pull one more time to hear the click again and your good.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I have SO, Matco, CDI, Craftsman, Kobalt. Unless you have deep pockets buy a Kobalt, Husky, or Craftsman and spend more money on buying other tools.

A torque wrench isn't something to be used every day.

 

[02SE]

Ebay has amazing deals on snap on wrenches. Like a 1/3 of the price. I'm actually looking at some right now to upgrade my current tools. Getting ready to rebuild an engine and want something more accurate than my O'Reilly's one.

Just be aware that there is a lot of counterfeit crap out there, being sold as the genuine article. From tools to automotive parts, the scammers are not above making a half-assed copy of something, and selling it as the genuine article.

The last time I talked to a Snap-on guy, he had some examples of counterfeit tools people had bought, and when they failed, wanted him warranty the tool. Needless to say, they don't warranty counterfeit tools.

 

[3rzrunner]

For the more important things, a Proto 50-200 ft lb torque wrench is high on my last. However, for budget wrenching, I still maintain that HF stuff will get the job done ... most of the time.

+2 for PROTO, all my tools are proto. Top notch stuff.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I have SO, Matco, CDI, Craftsman, Kobalt. Unless you have deep pockets buy a Kobalt, Husky, or Craftsman and spend more money on buying other tools.

A torque wrench isn't something to be used every day.

I agree, unless fixing engines is your trade. I've had Craftsman torque wrenches for 15 years and never had a problem. I wouldn't trust Harbor Freight Tools (Pittsburgh) as a boat anchor.

Things I have bought, and trust, from Harbor Freight:
-rubber drawer liner for tool chest drawers
-leather work gloves when I only needed to use them once
-rubber wheel chocks (it's tough to screw up a blob of rubber)
-a hand pump for transferring liquids
-... you get my point.

 

[absalom]

+2 for PROTO, all my tools are proto. Top notch stuff.

Dude, holy cow. I only discovered them a year ago, but it's as though Zeus himself crafted these tools. I've been slowly buying used Proto pieces off eBay to flesh out my collection. I look forward to each time that I get to use them!

 

[LittleCaesar]

Proto is good stuff, used a lot by mechanics working on airplanes. Don't see it much in the automotive repair field though.

Armstrong and SK are also two good ones. I have many tools by the latter used by my grandfather in the 1960s.

Pittsburgh Pro ratchets and impact sockets are great for the money.

 

[kball]

I personally hate spinning torque wrenches up and then having to loosen them back down. Split beam TW's don't have to be "turned down" after use. You can just leave them wherever you last set it at. Doesn't hurt it at all.

I also like getting Snappy quality at 1/3 the price so I killed two birds with Precision Instruments. They used to make Snap On's torque wrenches until SO bought CDI.

Bottom-line pricing on Precision Instruments C2FR100F at ToolTopia.com

Great deal on Precision Instruments C3FR250F at ToolTopia.com

 

[K_Labs]

Craftsman torque wrenches are always on sale.

 

[tripsydipsy]

Wow. Y'all are so helpful! Thanks for the info [MENTION=98735]3rzrunner[/MENTION] my 3rz is an automatic. I will be in touch if I have any questions!