Bilstein 60mm BTS System

[sigbrown1297]

Just got mine installed today. Confirmed 2 inch lift on third setting. 5100s in the back with factory spring. Wow what a diffrence. Not stiff at all, but body roll is all but gone. Nose dive issue is about 75 percent gone at low speeds. The best thing is at 60 Mph the whole truck firms up no body roll and nose dive goes to almost 90 percent better then stock. As far as bumps just drove 300 miles to Baltimore and back and my body doesn't hurt. Lol. Seams again to take the bumps smoother at highway speed significantly.:car:

So on third groove, you should have gotten 1.25" lift. but you got 2.0"
0.75 is far from 0.1 - 0.2" variance that Bilstein told us.

Im happy with my 6112 setup, I don't think anyone has gotten the lift as advertised with these.

 

[Magnetic4R]

The ~2.11" advertised lift was one part of the reason I went with the 6112. My desired lift was a tad over 2" to match the SAW 1.5" or 1.7"-2" actual lift. Other I might have lean towards the BOSS setup. So it seems Holstein lift reflect the 4x2 Tacoma lift I posted on the other thread. My other dilemma is if my Gobi and Opor will play any part on my lift.

 

[TotalAutomotiveLV]

Just got mine installed today. Confirmed 2 inch lift on third setting. 5100s in the back with factory spring. Wow what a diffrence. Not stiff at all, but body roll is all but gone. Nose dive issue is about 75 percent gone at low speeds. The best thing is at 60 Mph the whole truck firms up no body roll and nose dive goes to almost 90 percent better then stock. As far as bumps just drove 300 miles to Baltimore and back and my body doesn't hurt. Lol. Seams again to take the bumps smoother at highway speed significantly.:car:

Good to hear about the ride. I like it way better than stock but its always so subjective.

 

[BlacknTan]

Just got mine installed today. Confirmed 2 inch lift on third setting. 5100s in the back with factory spring. Wow what a diffrence. Not stiff at all, but body roll is all but gone. Nose dive issue is about 75 percent gone at low speeds. The best thing is at 60 Mph the whole truck firms up no body roll and nose dive goes to almost 90 percent better then stock. As far as bumps just drove 300 miles to Baltimore and back and my body doesn't hurt. Lol. Seams again to take the bumps smoother at highway speed significantly.:car:

Flounder, do you have pics of your rig after the install?

 

[TotalAutomotiveLV]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/183858-when-will-bilstein-6112-released.html

Got some catching up to do..

:thanks:

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Off to Camp Pendleton to see my youngest boy so I can't post pics. However, I think it actually settled a little. I'll have to get measurements again. However, I dig the 6112s/5160s over all for our application. I can see where the 6112s might be a little soft for some (remember my FJ has Camburg 2.5 fronts and Icon 2.5 piggy/Superflex rears) but for a daily driver that sees some off road I think it will be perfect. I will have to get it in a little rough stuff to tell for sure. To be honest I'm a little concerned that the compression dampening might be a bit soft for the spring rate or spring rate it's self, but we will see. If you unload the suspension first, I'm sure its all good with max travel. However, if you hit a hard bump before the suspension unloads, I'm not so sure. For 99.9% of folks it will be a non-issue. Yet to be seen about the rest.

I will say that the 5160s are notably stiffer than the front with OE rear springs. Might be a bit over dampened. The front will glide around an uneven sweeper where as the rear wants to skip a little more that "just a solid axle" should. I may have to get a set of Superflex springs for the rear as I believe the 10% increase in rate MAY be enough to equal things out. I have no regrets going with the 5160s for the rear as that's a LOT of unsprung weight. I'm just thinking that the OE spring rate might be a bit soft for these shocks.

Anyone have a counter to this former Rally mans ass on the subject?

 

[flounder1]

Here you go. Kam specialties in reading PA did the install. They spent almost 4 hours on the aliment. And man its perfect.

Pictures 1. Front before lift
Pictures 2. Rear before lift
Pictures 3 front after lift
Pictures 4 rear after lift

 

[Greenamphibious]

why did it take them 4 hours to align it?:wow2:

 

[sigbrown1297]

Here you go. Kam specialties in reading PA did the install. They spent almost 4 hours on the aliment. And man its perfect.

Pictures 1. Front before lift
Pictures 2. Rear before lift
Pictures 3 front after lift
Pictures 4 rear after lift

What setting did you put your circlips on? Rear is stock?

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

why did it take them 4 hours to align it?:wow2:

THIS!!! Man that is scary! Should have done install/alignment AND lunch in that time.

 

[Magnetic4R]

Flounder1, are you getting the same lift height for the front on both driver and passenger?

 

[flounder1]

Yes I put it on the middle or 3rd setting. Yes they are equally left to right. As far as the aliment is concerned these guys set up scca cars and also just about every other kind of race vehicles in the area. They don't do a 30 min OK it looks good aliment. I am sure the tech owner is more then qualified to do the job right. He was elio Castroneves and same Horneishs head engineer for 5 years at penske. I think I will trust him a lot more then you doing it on your lunch break just saying. Anyone could do the job but I prefer it done right. Oh yeah so that might be why I am the only one who didn't have problems with the lift being installed. I did put new upper shock tower mount and bushing maybe that is what is causing issues with right to left ride heights. The car had half a tank when install was done.
I put 50000 miles a year on my truck for work so I can't have half ass working would of let Zeus do it but I didn't want mustard on my wheels when I got it back from the install
Yes I went with the 5100s in the rear with stock spring. Glade I did because it's just right any more would go from firm to stiff. Diffrent subject but I also upgraded to slotted stop tech rotors with a auchobono pads. Also a big improvement over ecs pads and factory rotors.

 

[TotalAutomotiveLV]

Thats the best type of alignment, not just in spec - but equal side to side!

What are you initial impressions of the ride?

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

As far as the aliment is concerned these guys set up scca cars and also just about every other kind of race vehicles in the area. They don't do a 30 min OK it looks good aliment. I am sure the tech owner is more then qualified to do the job right. He was elio Castroneves and same Horneishs head engineer for 5 years at penske. I think I will trust him a lot more then you doing it on your lunch break just saying. Anyone could do the job but I prefer it done right. Oh yeah so that might be why I am the only one who didn't have problems with the lift being installed. I did put new upper shock tower mount and bushing maybe that is what is causing issues with right to left ride heights. The car had half a tank when install was done.
I put 50000 miles a year on my truck for work so I can't have half ass working would of let Zeus do it but I didn't want mustard on my wheels when I got it back from the install
Yes I went with the 5100s in the rear with stock spring. Glade I did because it's just right any more would go from firm to stiff. Diffrent subject but I also upgraded to slotted stop tech rotors with a auchobono pads. Also a big improvement over ecs pads and factory rotors.

My statement was not meant to be inflammatory, but in YOUR best interests as the ONLY way it might take that long JUST for the alignment is IF something WAS particularly difficult/broken, or wrong. Or, and here's the part that matters, that one of my fellow forum members who doesn't turn his own wrenches was being taken for a "ride" on labor. Regardless of that now that I'm slightly dis-amused, lets not let someone who doesn't do the work try to impress those who of us who do/have. The people you attempted to speak of have a reputation that needs no help from the likes of a butt hurt customer. Sorry you feel that way. I could talk about what I've done, who I've worked for/with, and some of my "builds" going faster and having to keep tighter tolerances than any race car on earth (because they don't touch the ground at speed). However in this vein it would just add the the proverbial BS that has no place in this thread. Ease up, regardless of retort I'm done wasting space, best wishes, I'm sorry it was such a heartfelt matter for you.

 

[Saker]

Installed my 5160's this afternoon, will get 6112's installed next Tuesday.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Nice

 

[Saker]

Nice

[MENTION=77958]Zeusmotorworks[/MENTION], --> Thank you sir!


I used Zeus idea of flipping the label on the remote reservoir. Thanks again!

For clearances of the remote reservoir to frame, here are the measurements I used:

Billet Clamp is 2 1/2" from bottom of decal at top of shock.
Top of the Remote Reservoir is 2" from Billet Clamp.

These measurements should hold true to 2010-2015 T4R's.
I used these after installing and checking for any clearance issues.
Once satisfied I was able to use Blue Locking thread compound & tighten everything up off of the vehicle, then install.

 

[sigbrown1297]

Looks good. I wish my underside wasn't as rusty. Guess that's what I get for buying it from MD.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

[MENTION=77958]Zeusmotorworks[/MENTION], --> Thank you sir!


I used Zeus idea of flipping the label on the remote reservoir. Thanks again!

For clearances of the remote reservoir to frame, here are the measurements I used:

Billet Clamp is 2 1/2" from bottom of decal at top of shock.
Top of the Remote Reservoir is 2" from Billet Clamp.

These measurements should hold true to 2010-2015 T4R's.
I used these after installing and checking for any clearance issues.
Once satisfied I was able to use Blue Locking thread compound & tighten everything up off of the vehicle, then install.

No worries brother... Anything to help.

 

[Magnetic4R]

Installed my 5160's this afternoon, will get 6112's installed next Tuesday.

I wish I could do one at a time, with the xreas, I need to change both front and rear at the same time. And I need all 4 corner up to remove it, something about equalizing the pressure with the way the xreas works. I was hoping to save $ but may have a shop to do install.