Bilstein 6112's Installed!

Agreed, after reading the last few posts I was pretty sure i was moving from 4/2 to 5/3.

Also, I found an amazing exploded view on here finally. Has every torque spec.


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Hold on, I was (mis?)informed that you had half an inch to the front. Is it a full inch?

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Will that have any issues if I do some towing in the future?

Lastly, any last minute advice?

Thanks so much guys.

I have a similar set up to you. I have a dirt bike that I haul around on a hitch-mounted hauler. I got a set of the Airlift 1000 airbags that go inside the rear springs. When I'm not hauling the dirt bike, I cannot tell they're even there. When I put the bike on the back, I inflate the bags to 25-30 psi and I cannot even tell the bike is there. Highly recommended.


what roof basket is that? rola? I want a low profile one like that

It is a Rola Vortex with the extension. I mounted it with the Armor Tech Offroad low-profile mounting brackets. It's a great set-up for about $350 total.
 
So. I have the 5160's with 1.5" sway-a-way rear coils, 6112's, moog top plates, moog sway bar end links for the front, one rear (due to moogs part numbers being dumb) and all moog ball bearings for the front. I also have new brembo rotors and pads, anti seize for those and blue thread locker for bolts.I think I have everything. Tomorrow I dig in. I have a couple questions:

Does anyone know or have a torque spec sheet for all bolts I'm going to be redoing? Every things just says OEM, like I know that. [emoji19]

To confirm my research, a 1.5" Rear lift requires a 2.0" (or slightly higher) front to level. Correct? Will that have any issues if I do some towing in the future?

Lastly, any last minute advice?

Thanks so much guys.
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With my 5160s, I tightened the top bolts until they bottomed out. Manual shows 18 lbs for the top bolt, 72 for the bottom. You're likely not going to get a torque wrench anywhere near the top bolt. There is so little clearance up there that I had to use two pairs of Vise Grips to compress the bottom rubber bushing. I used a grinder with a cutoff wheel to slice the top bolts, but I doubt you'll have the rust I had. I'd also recommend a Gear Wrench, probably one of the flexible head ones. I want to say it's 19 mm.

For the fronts, the the ball joint castle nut is 103 lbs, the two bolts holding the lower part of the spindle are 166 lbs (though I've also seen 118 lbs in the 2006 manual), the cam bolts for adjusting your alignment are 100 lbs, the stabilizer end link is 52 lbs, front lower shock bolt is 100 lbs, and the top hat was as tight as I could get one of them, and 47 lbs for the ones you can reach.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/247138-my-2003-limited-bilstein-adventure.html
 
I have a similar set up to you. I have a dirt bike that I haul around on a hitch-mounted hauler. I got a set of the Airlift 1000 airbags that go inside the rear springs. When I'm not hauling the dirt bike, I cannot tell they're even there. When I put the bike on the back, I inflate the bags to 25-30 psi and I cannot even tell the bike is there. Highly recommended.




It is a Rola Vortex with the extension. I mounted it with the Armor Tech Offroad low-profile mounting brackets. It's a great set-up for about $350 total.
Bro! I have a sport bike hauler in mine right now! I'll definitely look into that! Thanks!

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And here's how yesterday went.

Rear 1.5" sway-a-ways with Bilstien 5160's got me from 21" stock to 23.25" fender to hub. I did the brakes. As I was learning, I didn't have time to do everything before the diy shop closed. I left at the last minute. Literally. But the ride is already significantly improved. No more lunging at red light unless I baby it, and way less roll. Will finish Saturday.

So I think I'm going to have to use 5/6 on the front to level it out unless I use a spacer to ease the suspension tension. Opinions? Comments?
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And here's how yesterday went.

Rear 1.5" sway-a-ways with Bilstien 5160's got me from 21" stock to 23.25" fender to hub. I did the brakes. As I was learning, I didn't have time to do everything before the diy shop closed. I left at the last minute. Literally. But the ride is already significantly improved. No more lunging at red light unless I baby it, and way less roll. Will finish Saturday.

So I think I'm going to have to use 5/6 on the front to level it out unless I use a spacer to ease the suspension tension. Opinions? Comments?
474d05e0f98f0ee9b5b68149ce83d509.jpg
be2f34c32a94e53d8071d00301401435.jpg
32af728f2c900f964d31ba41a584aab8.jpg
c2ceab8553ebe674bfc753f5bc55a4cb.jpg
eac0294e95f43d9a64f7de58943db652.jpg
5a7ec07221a5b2a2dc5299aec22e0195.jpg
b0cace42e51ef5d5c2ef319f12fab0a2.jpg
133447a97e266e618465e6ee7ca87df5.jpg
fe6384cbe30baabd20b20aabad71044f.jpg
2c2184e1462010f03f37287dd285a5bf.jpg


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I'm pretty sure that I went with 4/2. If you look at mine, you'll see what that looks like. Keep in mind I'm not using coils in the rear. Maybe you like a little rake. Maybe you want perfectly level.
 
Im pretty sure its

So I think I'm going to have to use 5/6 on the front to level it out unless I use a spacer to ease the suspension tension. Opinions? Comments?

Bilstein directions claim 4/6 yields 3"s. The rears will settle some.
 
I'm pretty sure that I went with 4/2. If you look at mine, you'll see what that looks like. Keep in mind I'm not using coils in the rear. Maybe you like a little rake. Maybe you want perfectly level.
So. I went 4/2, wish I'd gone 5/3. Will make some changes in the future. But here's where we are now. Any advice on cv joints. I've been reading a lot. The rumor is Toyota uses NAPA cvs, silicone may not be ideal for an overland vehicle, and just replacing the boots is a pain and silly when you can put a newer better product in while you that deep.


In other news, pics!


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Weird, it looks like you have oil in your CV's. What came out of mine when they ripped was pure nasty grease.
 
So. I went 4/2, wish I'd gone 5/3. Will make some changes in the future. But here's where we are now. Any advice on cv joints. I've been reading a lot. The rumor is Toyota uses NAPA cvs, silicone may not be ideal for an overland vehicle, and just replacing the boots is a pain and silly when you can put a newer better product in while you that deep.


In other news, pics!


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I dunno man, looks pretty good to me, especially at that tire size. What do you think of the ride?
 
I do have Icon UCA's on there now and the CV angle is just about flat. Do you think it would be bad to do .5" plus a .25" for the driver lean? Do you have yours on the top perch with the spacers?



Sorry for late reply. I’m topped out driver and minus two pax side. I also did the diff drop. Don’t think I would put two different spacers on. Maybe one 3/4” but you will need longer studs to bolt the shock to the frame.


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6112 Settings

Yikes...that sucks to see. Hopefully Bilstein can cover it.



On another note, I lowered my 6112's to the 4th notch to bring the front down a bit. Sits perfect to my preferences. Sorry for the potato pic, I'll get better ones when I have my DSLR on hand

My 6112's and 5124s w/ Toytec Superflex's are coming all in by the weekend. Your setup and height is was i'm going for exactly.

Can you confirm your settings no the 6112s. Did you get the driver side lean at all ? Thx in advance
 
Im using the 4 driver /2 pass

My 6112's and 5124s w/ Toytec Superflex's are coming all in by the weekend. Your setup and height is was i'm going for exactly.

Can you confirm your settings no the 6112s. Did you get the driver side lean at all ? Thx in advance

setting and yielding just over 2"s of lift and in the rear im using icon vscs and dobinson 323s. i dont have any lean. Oh and 265/70/17s
 
I dunno man, looks pretty good to me, especially at that tire size. What do you think of the ride?

Sorry I don't keep up as well I need to. At all. Well.... It's way better than the XREAS since the system was dead anyway. It's not a caddy but it rolls over put holes and Tampa's $#!T roads with relative easy. It wobbles, but doesn't slam me around like it used to. My wife's Fit Sport is my control and compared tot hat te thing rides like a carpet.

Put some weight in it a few months ago and it did ride smooooooth. Like, the bumps on the way out of my apartment weren't even noticed.

I also hauled my motorcycle on a carrier (not a trailer) so it was approximately 550lbs on the hitch plus the gear I had in cargo. It lifted my front WAY up, but rode nice, if a but squirrely on steering at highway speeds.

Having done that, I'm torn. That pic is on an slight incline leading up to the position of observation, so it looks level. Park it backwards and it's terribly lopsided. However, with the carrier on it lifted my front up so much, I'd shudder to thing what would happen being leveled. I think I'm going to put a spacer lift on it though, air bags in the rear springs to reduce squish under load without affect ride too much, and call the suspension a day. It'll be crushed slightly when bumpers are installed, anyway.
 
Sorry I don't keep up as well I need to. At all. Well.... It's way better than the XREAS since the system was dead anyway. It's not a caddy but it rolls over put holes and Tampa's $#!T roads with relative easy.

Got a kick out of that b/c when I recently swapped out my X-REAS, the true test of the new suspension setup wasn't some rocky 4x4 trail but taking it on surface streets inside the Atlanta city limits. It passed. :lmao:
 
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Having done that, I'm torn. That pic is on an slight incline leading up to the position of observation, so it looks level. Park it backwards and it's terribly lopsided. However, with the carrier on it lifted my front up so much, I'd shudder to thing what would happen being leveled. I think I'm going to put a spacer lift on it though, air bags in the rear springs to reduce squish under load without affect ride too much, and call the suspension a day. It'll be crushed slightly when bumpers are installed, anyway.
I used to carry a motorcycle on a hitch carrier too. I have the same suspension you do. The first time I drove it that way was scary af. I immediately installed AirLift 1000 airbags and it was a night and day difference. With the air bags inflated to 25 or 30 psi, I could not even tell the bike and carrier were back there.
 
I used to carry a motorcycle on a hitch carrier too. I have the same suspension you do. The first time I drove it that way was scary af. I immediately installed AirLift 1000 airbags and it was a night and day difference. With the air bags inflated to 25 or 30 psi, I could not even tell the bike and carrier were back there.
That's exactly my plan. So glad someone could confirm it. I'll have a trailer after a while but I would like to maximize the capabilities for anything I may haul. Thanks for the info!
 
:hungry:
Got a kick out of that b/c when I recently swapped out my X-REAS, the true test of the new suspension setup wasn't some rocky 4x4 trail but taking it on surface streets inside the Atlanta city limits. It passed. :lmao:

Inner city roads have to be worse than light off road or overland trails. They're solid rock except for the pot holes which have solid rock edges, washboard patches of pavement, not crunchy gravel, and zero ability to avoid all of it. You may swerve a pot hole or two, but a $#!t road is still the road you need to follow.

I have some issues keeping me from the mud at this time. CV axel, see above, skid plate I screwed up, and I need a full fluid swap. Using 5 year old bake fluid, something tell me I'll see some improvement once chnaged...
 

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