Bilstein TRD Pro suspension kit on sale PTR13-35140
- Thread starter plasticsnaks
- Start date
ctran013
New member
I literally read through the whole thread and bookmarked every post that I felt was useful for
this install. So here's my contribution!
Did the Installation for
- FJ cruiser TRD lift kit
- KYB top hat
- Daystar 1.25" front spacers
- OME 10mm packer(left rear)
- Wheeler's Eibach T13 rear springs.
Not sure if the T13 are good for my rear full load (3rd row + roof rack + RTT + 4 passengers). Some dobinsons 327 2" springs are coming in so we'll see how both work and look. Did not do before measurements. Will do measurements after it settles, ~ 100 miles?
Here's some things I learned from my install experience that might be helpful for the community:
- Download & read through the PDF install manual in this thread (I only used the fj cruiser PDF)
Front
- Unbolt in order as shown in the PDF. if you remove the bottom bolt first of the coilover, that puts more tension on the top 3 nuts.
- That one tucked in nut on the top of the top hats...crow foot is definitely needed. Or a long wrench for leverage.
- When you remove the bolt from the coil and the lower control arm, the arm will drop. make sure you have something to support it.
- Used jack method instead of spring compressor. Just triple check everything is in and in the correct arrangements. Jack up slowly and make sure the shock bolt goes through the top hat hole.
- The daystar spacer replaces the rubber piece in the top hat assembly. Wish daystar had cut out grooves to match the tophat bolts.
- Took me 1.5 hours to understand and triple check everything on driver side. Took me 30 mins on passenger side.
Rear
- The PDF suggested the adjustable wrench + ratcheting wrench method...i just wore rubber gloves and held onto the shock body while i ratcheted. its almost impossible to fit 2 wrenches in the top nut area.
- That L bolt used in the bracket has super low torque capacity. I broke one using a 1/4 drive ratchet.
- To install the springs, I needed to unbolt 4 bolts, 2 on each side of the sway bar. The sway bar bracket has a hook on the bottom.
- Install BOTH springs and then install the shocks. When the springs are in, jack it up a bit so there's some compression to make sure everything fits properly in the right grooves.
- OME packer goes on TOP of the spring hat
- Make sure to have the top cushion placed in first before weaving the shock bolts through the hole. There's no room to put those cushions in if the bolt is already through the hole.
- You'll need to jack up the diff a bit for easier alignment/fitment for the bottom of the shock tower. A rubber mallet is useful here.
Ride quality much improved. Everything people said bout nose dive and handling is true. FYI I don't have KDSS. It's just an SR5 4x4 with 3rd row.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
this install. So here's my contribution!
Did the Installation for
- FJ cruiser TRD lift kit
- KYB top hat
- Daystar 1.25" front spacers
- OME 10mm packer(left rear)
- Wheeler's Eibach T13 rear springs.
Not sure if the T13 are good for my rear full load (3rd row + roof rack + RTT + 4 passengers). Some dobinsons 327 2" springs are coming in so we'll see how both work and look. Did not do before measurements. Will do measurements after it settles, ~ 100 miles?
Here's some things I learned from my install experience that might be helpful for the community:
- Download & read through the PDF install manual in this thread (I only used the fj cruiser PDF)
Front
- Unbolt in order as shown in the PDF. if you remove the bottom bolt first of the coilover, that puts more tension on the top 3 nuts.
- That one tucked in nut on the top of the top hats...crow foot is definitely needed. Or a long wrench for leverage.
- When you remove the bolt from the coil and the lower control arm, the arm will drop. make sure you have something to support it.
- Used jack method instead of spring compressor. Just triple check everything is in and in the correct arrangements. Jack up slowly and make sure the shock bolt goes through the top hat hole.
- The daystar spacer replaces the rubber piece in the top hat assembly. Wish daystar had cut out grooves to match the tophat bolts.
- Took me 1.5 hours to understand and triple check everything on driver side. Took me 30 mins on passenger side.
Rear
- The PDF suggested the adjustable wrench + ratcheting wrench method...i just wore rubber gloves and held onto the shock body while i ratcheted. its almost impossible to fit 2 wrenches in the top nut area.
- That L bolt used in the bracket has super low torque capacity. I broke one using a 1/4 drive ratchet.
- To install the springs, I needed to unbolt 4 bolts, 2 on each side of the sway bar. The sway bar bracket has a hook on the bottom.
- Install BOTH springs and then install the shocks. When the springs are in, jack it up a bit so there's some compression to make sure everything fits properly in the right grooves.
- OME packer goes on TOP of the spring hat
- Make sure to have the top cushion placed in first before weaving the shock bolts through the hole. There's no room to put those cushions in if the bolt is already through the hole.
- You'll need to jack up the diff a bit for easier alignment/fitment for the bottom of the shock tower. A rubber mallet is useful here.
Ride quality much improved. Everything people said bout nose dive and handling is true. FYI I don't have KDSS. It's just an SR5 4x4 with 3rd row.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
CowboyTaco
New member
You can also use the factory bottle jack to push the axle down to do the rear springs.
x2 on removing the sway bar bolts.
Once the springs were in place, we used a ratchet strap around the axle to compress the spring enough to slip the trim spacer in place.
x2 on removing the sway bar bolts.
Once the springs were in place, we used a ratchet strap around the axle to compress the spring enough to slip the trim spacer in place.
I am not usually a fan of white letters out, but your's looks great. Also digging the Trail wheels with no centers. Nicely done!
ctran013
New member
Thank you! Couldn't decide to keep caps on or off. Took the family on a road trip to Grand Canyon. Currently 500 miles with this set up and I love it. Only thing that's bothering me is the T13 springs, which I expected after research and asking around. With a full rack, 2 wheelchairs, 6 people total, a cooler and bags, it has a noticeable sag. I feel like the T13 are for lighter loads and less people, but where's the fun in that?! Pretty excited to put on the dobinson 527 2" springs after the trip.
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TwistedJake
New member
I've had my kit sitting in my gun room for almost 2 weeks now along with the T13 rears and 1.25" front spacer. Looks like I have this weekend available to install but no one to help. I can probably do it myself. I have the tools and know how but doing it by myself in the gravel doesn't sound super fun.
What are the odds there are some folks in the Portland area with a concrete area and know how who would want to spend a few hours installing. I'll bring a bottle of whiskey....
:becky:
What are the odds there are some folks in the Portland area with a concrete area and know how who would want to spend a few hours installing. I'll bring a bottle of whiskey....
:becky:
CowboyTaco
New member
Thank you! Couldn't decide to keep caps on or off. Took the family on a road trip to Grand Canyon. Currently 500 miles with this set up and I love it. Only thing that's bothering me is the T13 springs, which I expected after research and asking around. With a full rack, 2 wheelchairs, 6 people total, a cooler and bags, it has a noticeable sag. I feel like the T13 are for lighter loads and less people, but where's the fun in that?! Pretty excited to put on the dobinson 527 2" springs after the trip.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think that sag is pretty expected. That's a heavy load! I hate to think what your gas mileage was on that trip. :lalala:
[MENTION=99406]yotantexas[/MENTION] has become somewhat of an expert on the rear springs. OEM --> ICON --> Toytec --> Toytec HD --> Dobinson
The problem is that his needs changed after every spring. Nothing wrong with any of them (to my knowledge). After putting on the Toytec, he added a rear bumper and needed to support a constant load. I don't remember the problem with the Toytec HD springs, but I think they sagged too much with the constant load bumper and loaded down for a trip.
Hopefully your Dobinson will solve your issue!
mgproudfit
Member
Gravel + Solo Install is what nightmares are made of. **** that.
ctran013
New member
When I checked the mpg reading on the car, it read 16.9 after ~500 miles. That's with AC on lowest fan setting and lowest temp throughout (thank goodness for ceramic tint). I think that's average? Definitely will measure height with T13 set up before putting in the Dob's.
yotantexas
Member
The order was stock, Icon, Toytec HD, OME 898, now Dobinson c331.
With the added weight of the rear bumper and tire carrier the Toytec springs were enough with NOTHING else in the truck. Adding the Jerry can holder and hi-lift to the tire gate and the springs were not enough to support the weight on highway dips.
The OME would have probably worked but fully loaded they sagged a touch more than I wanted.
The Dobinsons are great so far. i wish they flexed a little more but I can live with it.
GogDog
New member
Ok, just got home from the dealer. Had the dealer do tint, Bilstein trd pro lift, and put on scs wheels with 285/70/r17 ridge grapplers.
My setup was:
King 14" 3"ID 650# springs (I'll be putting a SSO slimline and winch on front later)
Dobinson 1.5" lift rear springs
Toytec 1/2" top plate spacer (gives 1" lift)
Toytec 10MM rear spacer (for lean)
So....cornering feels awesome. It doesn't sway as much. I was hoping it was going to get rid of nose dive....though maybe I'm misunderstanding what nose dive is? I thought it was if I was going straight, stopped suddenly, then the nose dips and comes back up.
I ...still feel that. But maybe nose dive is when the nose dives during corners? If so....then yes, it totally got rid of that.
Anyway, here are my before measurements (ground to fender):
This is also BEFORE I had the 285/70/r17 tires installed
FD: 34 1/2
RD: 36 1/2
FP: 34 7/8
RP: 36 7/8
I measured my RCI skid clearances...but...I must have lost them. I want to say my front RCI skid was 8.75" of clearance.
After: (lift and tires)
FD: 38
RD: 39 3/8
FP: 38 3/8
RP: 39 1/2
Front RCI skid: 12 1/4"
RCI fuel skid: 13"
So....I've gained 3.5" of height or so (lift and tires). I'm sure it will sag a bit after a few weeks, plus I'll lose so front height once the bumper goes on.
It looks like the rear driver spacer did fix the lean....but only in the back. I had the dealer put both the driver and passenger perch on the higher setting. I could have the dealer put the passenger on the lower perch and that would level the front. Though...maybe I won't? With it on the higher perch I would assume I'm gaining a bit more ground clearance at least on the passenger side....
My setup was:
King 14" 3"ID 650# springs (I'll be putting a SSO slimline and winch on front later)
Dobinson 1.5" lift rear springs
Toytec 1/2" top plate spacer (gives 1" lift)
Toytec 10MM rear spacer (for lean)
So....cornering feels awesome. It doesn't sway as much. I was hoping it was going to get rid of nose dive....though maybe I'm misunderstanding what nose dive is? I thought it was if I was going straight, stopped suddenly, then the nose dips and comes back up.
I ...still feel that. But maybe nose dive is when the nose dives during corners? If so....then yes, it totally got rid of that.
Anyway, here are my before measurements (ground to fender):
This is also BEFORE I had the 285/70/r17 tires installed
FD: 34 1/2
RD: 36 1/2
FP: 34 7/8
RP: 36 7/8
I measured my RCI skid clearances...but...I must have lost them. I want to say my front RCI skid was 8.75" of clearance.
After: (lift and tires)
FD: 38
RD: 39 3/8
FP: 38 3/8
RP: 39 1/2
Front RCI skid: 12 1/4"
RCI fuel skid: 13"
So....I've gained 3.5" of height or so (lift and tires). I'm sure it will sag a bit after a few weeks, plus I'll lose so front height once the bumper goes on.
It looks like the rear driver spacer did fix the lean....but only in the back. I had the dealer put both the driver and passenger perch on the higher setting. I could have the dealer put the passenger on the lower perch and that would level the front. Though...maybe I won't? With it on the higher perch I would assume I'm gaining a bit more ground clearance at least on the passenger side....
You won’t ever totally get rid of nose dive, but it should be about 75% of what it was.
GogDog
New member
The dealer only needed to cut the front fender, as per usual. I think the SCS wheels helped with their correct offset. The dealer however put on E load ridge grapplers.....when I had requested C load. The tires felt really stiff to me on the way home so I will have him change them to the C load ones.
And, you edited your post...but...here you go for what I did to the front ->
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/254625-bad-plastidip-job-my-hood-scoop-two-textured.html
Though....I bought the recent group buy from SSO, so I'll be putting a slimline bumper, plus a TRD Pro replacement grill and letters on.
After about 500 miles it’s a noticeable difference in ride quality. My alignment is probably off some I’ll post that later for advice. Tire discounters 1 yr alignment so I figure let it settle and take it back in. It’s a firm ride and less body roll in corners, Little nose dive but not as bad. Aggressive look now and glad I did this purchase
p0pe
New member
Awesome. Good luck!
TwistedJake
New member
Today was the day that the lift went on. I added a Daystar 1.25" spacer up front and the Wheelers Off Road Eibach t13 springs in the rear.
Tackled it myself for the most part and was on par for about a 6 hour install solo but I was draining my energy. Then I had visitors who wanted to BS so that killed some time. In the end I recruited my 14 year old son to come down and help. It's amazing how much smoother it went with an extra set of hands. In the end it took 8 hours from the time I rolled into the shop, doing it with floorjack and jackstands, no air tools, and also installed the BD Fogs.
Here are the before and after measurements with nearly a full tank of gas. I'll measure again after things settle.
Rf = 20.25 22.00 = 1.75"
Lf = 20.00 22.00 = 2.00"
Lr = 22.00 23.25 = 1.25"
Rr = 22.50 23.25 = .75"
I left the clips at the factory offset positions as I don't have KDSS. As you can see it leveled out the lean. Need to get an alignment this week. Anyone have any suggestions on a good shop in Oregon who can do it?
Ordered wheels/tires yesterday so will get those on in a couple weeks.
Here is a pro tip for pushing the LCA down enough to clear everything. Use a box end wrench and cheater bar. The wrench actually locks in there nice and safe. My son was able to push down easily enough to make it work without worry of slipping.
I made sure to clock the front springs to show the TRD logo. Just one of those little details.
Tackled it myself for the most part and was on par for about a 6 hour install solo but I was draining my energy. Then I had visitors who wanted to BS so that killed some time. In the end I recruited my 14 year old son to come down and help. It's amazing how much smoother it went with an extra set of hands. In the end it took 8 hours from the time I rolled into the shop, doing it with floorjack and jackstands, no air tools, and also installed the BD Fogs.
Here are the before and after measurements with nearly a full tank of gas. I'll measure again after things settle.
Rf = 20.25 22.00 = 1.75"
Lf = 20.00 22.00 = 2.00"
Lr = 22.00 23.25 = 1.25"
Rr = 22.50 23.25 = .75"
I left the clips at the factory offset positions as I don't have KDSS. As you can see it leveled out the lean. Need to get an alignment this week. Anyone have any suggestions on a good shop in Oregon who can do it?
Ordered wheels/tires yesterday so will get those on in a couple weeks.
Here is a pro tip for pushing the LCA down enough to clear everything. Use a box end wrench and cheater bar. The wrench actually locks in there nice and safe. My son was able to push down easily enough to make it work without worry of slipping.
I made sure to clock the front springs to show the TRD logo. Just one of those little details.
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