Blend door actuator stuck

[Chunhe]

Boy, thought I was the only one. Cleared my heater cores. Back works fine. Cable was stuck on heater control valve. Removed cable and manually moved valve to hot. I've heard the cable also operates the damper door. I'm on a 2000 limited runner. Trying to find door myself.
Updated: found the damper door. Managed to manually move the cable back with pliers and some PB blaster. Heat is great now. I'll tackle the cable tomorrow to free it up some more. Also remove the other end from damper so it can move freely or see if there's a snag. Gotta see if clicking went away. Don't recall, was just stoked I had heat ��

 

[druidspath]

!

Is this the part your talking about?

If so here is what you need:

Toyota p/n 87106-04030 listed as a Servo Sub-Assy damper.

Its Denso p/n is 063700-8380

I just replaced mine, super simple, look for a JY replacement cause Toyota thinks they're made of GOLD...and you can't get them from pre-00 donors I think (assuming you have an 02 like myself)

I just replaced my blower motor thinking that was the cause of the buzzing sound. it was NOT the cause. Thanks for this! I located the part and put my finger on it while I started the car. There was a distinct vibration while the buzzing was present, and when the buzzing went away, so did the vibration (usually lasts only 5-6 seconds then stops.) This part is expensive, but beyond that, it looks darn near impossible to dig out of the car. any advice?

 

[eastvanrunner]

How did you get the cog off the spindle with the arm? I can't seem to get that assembly apart

First take the nut and washers off, and then hold the spindle (near the cog) with a plier and pull the arm off. Also you don't have to shave the contacts off the cog, simply rotate it 180 clockwise and the contacts will be facing the same way.

 

[highme]

Not yet a year old bump, and this seems to be the be the thread most closely related to my issue. 2002 SR5 non-digital dash.

My heater works fine. My AC works fine. The problem I have is there seems to be a bit of "drift" on the blend door towards the warm settings. As the AC runs it'll start to move to all hot air after 5-10 minutes. Then if I roll the the temp blend knob to hot & back to cold it'll stay for another 5-10 minutes before I have to repeat the process. There's also a bit of excess heat entering the cabin regardless of whether or not HVAC controls are turned on. I'm wondering if the blend door actuator is bad?

I have a couple of things I need to do to my truck under the dash so if I can bang them all out at once that'd be great.

 

[The Cold War Kid]

I’ve been dealing with this for awhile, my blend for has been stuck on cold but, here in SE Texas, that’s normally only an issue about 6 weeks out of the year. Finally have a pretty cold winter so I started investigating and found a video showing similar symptoms. I found the actuator and uninstalled it, left it plugged in and it DOES work. Maybe it’s not strong enough anymore but it seems the linkage jams up and the actuator is fine. It’s very strong, when I turn the climate knob,I can’t hold the white arm in place with my finger. I really think it’s the linkage behind the instrument console. If anyone knows of any videos to get behind and service that area, it’s greatly appreciated. I’m going to pull off more interior in the morning and investigate further in the daylight.

Also, can anyone here tell me if gravity plays a role on the blend door itself? The actuator moves the linkage that pulls a cable and that moves the door, seems it isn’t PUSHING the cable? Gravity would allow the door to fall and close off the compressor or the heater core?

This thing moves the cable attached to the water valve too. Free that cable up and your problems will go away

 

[testshoot]

This thing moves the cable attached to the water valve too. Free that cable up and your problems will go away

I bought the new actuator thingy but never installed it. Like your suggestion, I just connect and disconnect the water valve seasonally. Just flipped it to the heat mode recently.

 

[highme]

Not yet a year old bump, and this seems to be the be the thread most closely related to my issue. 2002 SR5 non-digital dash.

My heater works fine. My AC works fine. The problem I have is there seems to be a bit of "drift" on the blend door towards the warm settings. As the AC runs it'll start to move to all hot air after 5-10 minutes. Then if I roll the the temp blend knob to hot & back to cold it'll stay for another 5-10 minutes before I have to repeat the process. There's also a bit of excess heat entering the cabin regardless of whether or not HVAC controls are turned on. I'm wondering if the blend door actuator is bad?

I have a couple of things I need to do to my truck under the dash so if I can bang them all out at once that'd be great.

Anybody have insight? thanks in advance

 

[testshoot]

The one thing you can easily tell is if it is opening and closing the hot water valve on the firewall. I don't know what other function isn't working right, but that function is my main need, so I do the seasonal manually opening and closing that valve.

 

[daddio812]

Absolutely works

I just finished fixing this.

Take the servo actuator unit out of the car
Mark arm position then remove it
Dissasemble plastic housing.
Find the big cog and look for the missing 10 teeth. (The only 10 teeth it ever uses)
**Mark cog position and remove it.
Shave off the copper fork contacts with a razor.
Superglue them back on in the opposite positions. (Switch places)
Once dry and secure, place the cog back inside **But this time rotated 180° from original position.
Now the contacts line up. But with fresh teeth in position to do some work!
Put some extra dielectric grease on for fun.
And close it up.
Put the arm back on where it was before.
And bolt it back on.

No more click!

Tapatalk Cloud - Downlaoad File VID_26410929_183242_023.mp4

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Just be sure to sharpie mark the arm to where it is positioned to the bracket. Then undo the screws and clips. Mark the white gear position also, otherwise you might have to fiddle with it afterward. The copper fingers are removed easily by using a razor blade to shear top of white plastic nodules holding them in. Dont bend the copper fingers !!! Rotate that gear 180 DEGREES. I used crazy glue to reattach the copper fingers back in place put it in and BINGO blend door will operate again! Actually only takes maybe 40 minutes tops if that.The copper fingers were the most mundane things to redo which took the longest time of it all. I just did this for my 99 4runner happy to have heat again. Still rolling with 239,000 miles Thanks to all the forum posters that helped lead me to this pic and the info leading up to it

 

[pak]

I just finished fixing this.

Take the servo actuator unit out of the car
Mark arm position then remove it
Dissasemble plastic housing.
Find the big cog and look for the missing 10 teeth. (The only 10 teeth it ever uses)
**Mark cog position and remove it.
Shave off the copper fork contacts with a razor.
Superglue them back on in the opposite positions. (Switch places)
Once dry and secure, place the cog back inside **But this time rotated 180° from original position.
Now the contacts line up. But with fresh teeth in position to do some work!
Put some extra dielectric grease on for fun.
And close it up.
Put the arm back on where it was before.
And bolt it back on.

No more click!

Tapatalk Cloud - Downlaoad File VID_26410929_183242_023.mp4

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

I have a 2002 4runner. How did you get the servo out? On mine, looks like there's 3 screws, 2 of which I can get to easily, but the 3rd one is so far under, that I can't get to it without removing the foot heater vent, at the very least. I just can't seem to figure out how to do that. What am I missing? How did you get the servo out?

Thanks!

 

[Kokomodo]

Part Number for Bowden Cable?

The Bowden cable between the actuator and the heater blend door is very difficult to move in mine (which is what leads to stripped gears and actuator motor burnout.). Anyone know if this is a DIY replaceable part? Any idea what the part number is?

 

[neldonado]

Did you ever find a fix for this? It's really hard to move the cable on mine.

 

[96RedRunner]

Did you ever find a fix for this? It's really hard to move the cable on mine.

Take the cable off at engine bay end. Use zip tie if needed to hold in position.